Weapons Cleaning Basics

Click here to view the original post.



So for those of you who don’t have much experience with firearms, perhaps bought one recently or maybe just inherited the old shotgun and pistol from your father it is important to know how to clean your weapon.

In fact knowing how and when to clean your weapon is just as important as knowing how and when to use your weapon, you can be a crack shot, but with a busted or locked up weapon you are now just holding a hunk of steel that will do more damage if you threw it at the assailant.

Unclean weapons have lead to more deaths on the battlefield than can be counted, famously the story of Jessica Lynch’s convoy is a cautionary tale.  Of course after action reports can be notoriously…edited, however one fact that shines through is that her unit was unable to return accurate and sustained fire because most of their weapons were jammed with dirt and dust.


Now you may say “I have a AK-47 (or other similar low tolerance weapon) so it wont jam even if you cake it in mud!”  That old adage is partially true.  Yes the AK is famously reliable in shitty conditions however you are tempting fate even with a exceptionally reliable weapon like the AK and not cleaning it.  In fact the AK was made to be easily stripped down and cleaned so that even the most uneducated mud dweller could do it, i hope you have a little more intelligence and care for your life than Somali Pirate.


The basic components of a weapons cleaning kit are…

First off, I consider the AP brush to be one of, if not THE most important part of your kit, you can clean more of the weapon with a simple AP brush than anything else.  I used the AP brush more than any part of my cleaning kit in all my time overseas.  You CAN use an old stiff bristle toothbrush, but it really wont hold up, the best use for a old tooth brush is knocked the dust off of components and the outside of the weapon as well as magazines (clips if you have a rifle that uses them).

As far as Gun Oil goes, I have always used CLP, the military version of Gun oil and I have loved it to this day, however any sort of lubricating gun oil will work.  Solvent is tricky and you will want to make sure you are careful with it.  I prefer J-B Bore Cleaner, it is sort of like a greyish paste that you put on the patches and push through, I will explain more about the Solvent portion later in the post, this is more a “BEWARE” section.  The Beware is most in effect with a produce called “SWEETS”, which works wonderfully… However DO NOT LEAVE IT IN THE BARREL LONGER THAN 20-25 MINUTES!  Why? Because the solvent is so caustic it will actually begin to ‘pit’ your barrel, leaving small indents in it which will adversely affect your accuracy.

As far as the Rod/Brush/Patch holder goes i would recommend having both Plastic and Brass brushes.  The Brass brushes will not scar your barrel and are much more effective in getting carbon and copper fouling out than plastic.  The plastic bore brush comes in when you are using a COPPER SOLVENT (such as JB or SWEETS as i talked about above), because the solvent dissolves copper that starts to accumulate in the rifling grooves it will also start to dissolve the Brass brush (brass has copper in it!).  So you use the Plastic brush for solvent cleaning.  with most basic Rifle/Pistol cleaning kits you will usually get one set of rods that you can add onto for longer barrels etc.  I like the metal rods for most uses, but in my precision rifles i prefer to use hard plastic rods as to not ding up the edges of my barrel.  You will also want to make sure you have all the brushes you need for your various firearms, you cant clean a .45 with a 9mm brush, etc.  Buy 4 or 5 of each as backups (we are preppers!) since most are relatively cheap.  I bought an old tackle box to hold all my cleaning kit and it works quite nicely and i can fit all the different brushes, patches, rods, oils, etc inside.


Patches are pretty straight forward, you CAN sometimes use larger than listed patches for smaller caliber firearms, all depends on how big a difference.  However I often take old t shirts, underwear, etc. and use those for gun cleaning rags and patches.  Over time you can accumulate quite a bit of patch material, also look at going to thrift shops that will give you pounds of white t shirts for pennies, take those home and have a fun Saturday afternoon cutting patches!


Other things you may want to have…

  • Q TIPS: These are great for getting in nooks and crannies of your gun parts to remove carbon…Carbon is not your friend, it builds up from the gun powder residue
  • Pipe Cleaners: These, like q tips can get in some more nooks and crannies
  • Gun Cleaning Mat: This can be anything from an old sweatshirt to a more fancy made for cleaning materials that soak up oil, etc.  You dont want to do this on the living room floor necessarily, but wherever you clean you dont want it soaked with oil and gunpowder residue I’m Guessing
  • Safety Gear: This is up to you but *disclaimer* you should use latex gloves and eye protection when cleaning your weapon.  When using more caustic solvents this actually is a really good idea, as you are brushing there is a spray of the oil/solvent and carbon that splatters in the area. Solvent in the Eye is not fun.




Not much more to say here, but the AP brush is great for busting off dust and dirt off the outside of your weapon as well as the inside components, basically any where it will reach it will do a great job.  depending on the weather and terrain i will put a small amount of oil on it (drop) and then scrub the inside components to break up the carbon, wipe it clean and brush it dry again until it is pretty clean.  The AP brush is plastic bristled so it may take some time to break up built on carbon if you have been firing a lot and/or haven’t cleaned it since the Reagan Administration.

Otis sells a great  9 Brush Kit a mix of plastic and brass bristles for around $15




I prefer military grade CLP if you can find it, it can be very expensive, but in places like MIDWAY USA you can purchase gallons of it, which will last you a very long time.  I prefer M-Pro personally, it has proven reliable and of high quality.





I mentioned earlier that I prefer JB Bore Cleaner, which can be seen above in the picture, however SWEETS is also a great solvent, however as i warned you earlier DO NOT LET IT SIT LONGER THAN 20-25 MINUTES!





You can purchase a basic gun cleaning kit for “Rifle” or “Pistol” or “Shotgun”, that is more than fine its a cheap and easy way to get your cleaning kit started.


HOPPES makes these and other varieties of kits



HOPPES CLEANING KIT FOR .380, 357, 9mm Pistols



I Love Otis, they make a beautiful product and their “rods” are not rods but a plastic coated metal wire that slips down the barrel for easier and more compact cleaning.


For Patches you can purchase large packs like this one for .223 (5.56) for your AR, about 1000 patches for 17.64, but of course you can do it the DIY hard way and make your own from old clothing, use cotton, not nylon/poly blends.

For brushes just shop around for ones for all your weapons like these for 9mm Pistol, or these for .30 cal rifle (will work for 7.62)


gun patch holder cleaning

Make sure you also have the patch holder attachment for your cleaning rods, it basically looks like a large end of a needle.  They come in the basic gun kits, but if you are parting together a kit, this is essential have both metal and plastic.  I prefer plastic so as to not ding up my barrel, its really not an issue, but I’m overly cautious.

That About covers all the stuff you need to have a good Weapons Cleaning Kit.

If you have any questions or comments please email me or leave them in the comment section below.






Want to help support the site? find out more here! Or just click the amazon link below, bookmark it and go there every time you shop on Amazon, it costs you nothing more, but they will kick back a portion of your purchase to the site to help run things smoothly and keep you informed!

Amazon GNP help

Guide to Shotgun Shell Types

Click here to view the original post.



I received a question from a reader recently on what the different types of shotgun shells mean, and I figured It would be a good time to do a general overview of the types of loads available for the venerable shotgun.

There are two basic types of Shotgun Loads; Shot and Slug.



This is the most common type of Shotgun ammo, basically small tiny balls (made from various metals such as lead, steel, bismuth, tin and zinc).

Lead is in my opinion the best choice for home defense and hunting, when fired the lead deforms as it leaves the barrel and presents a better and wider pattern than steel; some hunters report more wounding shots with steel vs lead.

With Shot Shells there are two different types, Birdshot and Buckshot.




Birdshot is often just referred to as “Shot” or the number associated with it such as “number 3 Shot”, the numbers are based conversely on their size, the smaller the number the larger the shot.

Size Nominal diameter Pellets per oz (28 g) Quantity per lb.[5]
Lead Steel
FF .23″ (5.84 mm) 35
F .22″ (5.59 mm) 39
TT .21″ (5.33 mm)
T .20″ (5.08 mm) 36 53
BBB .190″ (4.83 mm) 44 62 550
BB .180″ (4.57 mm) 50 72 650
B .170″ (4.32 mm)
1 .160″ (4.06 mm) 72 103 925
2 .150″ (3.81 mm) 87 125 1120
3 .140″ (3.56 mm) 108 158 1370
4 .130″ (3.30 mm) 135 192 1720
5 .120″ (3.05 mm) 170 243 2180
6 .110″ (2.79 mm) 225 315 2850
7 .100″ (2.54 mm)
.095″ (2.41 mm) 350 3775
8 .090″ (2.29 mm) 410 686 5150
.085″ (2.15 mm) 497
9 .080″ (2.03 mm) 585 892 7400

(table courtesy of wikipedia.com)


For Home Defense Birdshot is not the most ideal, Buckshot (explained below) is far superior and 00Buck is the standard, however if you have some larger birdshot like F or FF or even BBB it will do some real damage.  There are differing schools of thought in regards to birdshot for home defense.  Since say #9 has nearly 600 BB’s inside (not to be confused with the shot size BB, referring to the shape…like a BB), it will have a nice large pattern in a home hallway.  #9 also will not penetrate distant walls and possibly enter a sleeping child’s bedroom as easily as 00 Buck will.  Another good point I have heard is that by using birdshot, if you do use it now (not in SHTF but ‘normal’ times) you cant be accused by a prosecutor of ‘premeditation’ (sounds crazy, but crazier things have happened!) by loading up those scary ‘known’ man stopper rounds as this is a very common hunting round.  Personally if you were taking this approach i would put the first or second rounds as birdshot and the remaining rounds be 00 Buck.  If the first few didn’t dissuade them then you need to use something more potent.

Personally I would rather face prosecution for defending my family than face the morgue for using a sub par round. But this is your decision.

I have heard of people using what are called “Cut Shells” (See this Youtube Video for more information), basically this is a birdshot round turned into a “slug” by nearly cutting the in two )nearly halfway up) this causes the shell to fire out holding the shot inside and making it a nice little improvised slug.  This was used during the depression when slugs were more expensive.




Buckshot is a larger size of shot, primarily used for…you guessed it DEER!  The most common buckshot is the 00 BUCK that holds 9 .33″ shot inside and works perfectly for hunting deer or in home defense.   As your can see in the photo above, 00 Buck is on the right and #7 1/2 Birdshot is on the right, you can see the size difference.

Size Nominal diameter Pellets/oz
0.60″ (“Tri-Ball 12 “) 0.60″ (15.2 mm) 1.4
0.52″ (“Tri-Ball 20 “) 0.52″ (13.2 mm) 2.1
000 (“triple-aught”) .36″ (9.1 mm) 6
00 (“double-aught”) .33″ (8.4 mm) 8
0 (“aught”) .32″ (8.1 mm) 9
1 .30″ (7.6 mm) 10
2 .27″ (6.9 mm) 15
3 .25″ (6.4 mm) 18
4 .24″ (6 mm) 21
T .20″ (5.08;mm) 31.3


For Home Defense I would recommend 000, 00, 0, #1 or #4 Buck, however the larger .52″ and .60″ Tri Ball rounds offer better penetration and range, however you will lose a little of your faster follow on shots that 00 Buck can provide in a sticky situation.  There are also “Low Recoil” 00 Buck shells becoming more available, which will give you a reduced range and stopping power, but faster follow on shots.

While this post is not to be about different types of shotguns, their barrels and chokes, I will say that if you have a rifled shotgun barrel you do need to be careful about shooting a lot of buckshot or birdshot out of them as the wad (the plastic piece inside the shell that holds the shot together) will start to foul up the rifling, i have heard that if you clean it often this isnt as much of an issue, heat up the barrel with a torch or hair dryer then run brass brush and heavy patches and that should do the trick.  You also need to be aware that your buckshot and other shot rounds will have a wider pattern than with a smoothbore shotgun barrel as the rifling will cause the wad to open sooner.



Slugs can be molded chunks of heavy lead or copper, with or without a plastic tip depending on what kind you buy.  The main difference between slugs and shot are that slugs are one object while shot is multiple objects when fired.  They can come in a variety of shapes but they often are shaped like bullets, and you can also buy ‘rifled slugs’ which have grooves in them and cause them to spin in the air like a pistol or rifle round, improving their accuracy.

Brenneke Slugs

These are slugs that were developed in 1898, a solid lead slug with fins cast on the outside much like a rifled slug.  Since it is solid and not hollow it will not deform as much on impact and will provide more penetration, the Black Magic Slug is great for use against Bear, however they are not stable at long ranges and should be used in short range engagements.


Foster Slugs.

Developed in 1931 and was made to be used in non rifled shotgun barrels, however they can be used in rifled barrels, but lead fouling (lead that builds up in the grooves) can be an issue and will need to be cleaned often.  There is a deep hollow area in the rear of the round which places the center of mass at the tip of the slug and allows for stable flight out to 75 yards.


Wad Slugs

These are variant between the Foster (above) and the Sabot (below) Slugs, designed to be used in non rifled shotgun barrels (although fouling is not an issue like the Foster).  It has a deep hollow like the Foster which allows for stable flight but it also has a web wall moulded across it reducing the stress on the plastic wad when it goes down the barrel.  It is good to about 75 yards.


Sabot Slug

These are lead cored, full copper jacketed or solid copper projectiles supported by a plastic sabot outer, which is designed to engage the rifling in teh barrel and put spin on the round.  This allows you to get ranges out to 300 yards which is damn near the effective ranges of most rifle shooters out there.  These are great for longer distance shots, and this type of round is what makes a good shotgun such a great all around weapon.



Now this wasn’t meant to be a complete no detail spared overview, but a general one, since i skipped some types of shells that are out there for the sake of a quick down and dirty.




Want to help support the site? find out more here! Or just click the amazon link below, bookmark it and go there every time you shop on Amazon, it costs you nothing more, but they will kick back a portion of your purchase to the site to help run things smoothly and keep you informed!

Amazon GNP help


Click here to view the original post.


I am very happy to welcome a new sponsor of the show the Great Northern Prepper Family, J.M. Bullion.


J.M. Bullion has made a great name for themselves in the world of silver and gold and has been used and trusted by many in the preparedness industry.

J.M Bullion offers you everything that you could want in the form of Silver, Gold, Platinum or even an IRA program to invest in your future with precious metals instead of worthless government bonds!

If you want Krugerrands or Gold Eagles they have it, If you want Junk Silver or Silver Bars from 20 grams to 100 oz, they have it.  Its a one stop shop.


I am confident this will be a long lasting and great partnership between GNP and J.M Bullion.


If you are considering buying Gold and Silver, please go through our link on the sidebar to the right and let them know that you heard of them from Great Northern Prepper!

I get no commissions for anything your buy, so I have no incentive to tell you to buy from J.M. only that I KNOW they are worthy of your Money, Trust and Confidence.





Low-Cost Survival Hygiene: How To Make Lye Soap From Fat and Wood Ashes

Click here to view the original post.

how to make lye soap from wood ashes and fatOne of the most prominent uses for wood ashes is as a soap-making ingredient. Lye soap is actually quite old, having been used by many different cultures and societies around the world as a way of profitably reusing meat drippings and the remains of old campfires. For the preparedness minded, lye soap is a convenient cleanser for the body and many other surfaces in addition to being an easily transportable barter item.

Follow the link below to learn…

How To Make Lye Soap From Fat and Wood Ashes


Click here to view the original post.

By GunsmithG
There are many variables to consider when choosing a cartridge for a personal protection handgun. Skill level, recoil tolerance, and cost all come into play. Staying within a budget and allowing for monthly or bi monthly trips to the range, and ammunition for practice can become a burden if a hard to get or

Prepper’s Workbook Giveaway on Goodreads

Click here to view the original post.

My publisher is sponsoring a book giveaway of 10 copies of The Prepper’s Workbook on Goodreads.  You can enter to win one right here.  The giveaway ends March 18.

The publisher should have copies of the book in their offices around the first of March.  I will announce other opportunities for free copies this book here on Bug Out Survival once I have copies in hand.  Those of you who have survival or prepping related blogs and would like a review copy should email me directly with your address information.

Goodreads Book Giveaway

The Prepper's Workbook by Scott B. Williams

The Prepper’s Workbook

by Scott B. Williams

Giveaway ends March 18, 2014.
See the giveaway details at Goodreads.

Enter to win

How to Make Logs for burning from Junk Mail and Newspapers

Click here to view the original post.

newspaper junk mail burning logs

(photo courtesy of traybellakc.blogspot.com)

I have found that this IS NOT even close to being as efficient as some good dried hardwood…or even softer woods like Pine.  However that being said most if not all of us are constantly getting reams of junk mail and newspapers in our mail box and dropped on our door.  Im sure you can also easily get this from your friends and neighbors who will be MORE THAN HAPPY to offload this.  It makes a neat little project and also offers you the ability to ‘create’ your own heat.  In hard times im sure it will be harder to find, but you may be able to find large amounts laying around even in hard times.

Just something to take note of and stick away in your brain, another tool in the toolbox.



  • Large (or small depending on how much you want to make) amounts of newspaper/Junk Mail

*Be aware that some of the junk mail/magazines that come in that have the “coated” heavy shiny paper can burn quite badly with thick black smoke, so try to avoid those.*

  • Large bin to soak the paper in, something like a rubbermaid tote will work great (Sink can work as well, but doing it outside is better and cleaner)
  • Cotton Twine/String.  This can be other types of twine like Jute, just not anything poly based (it has to burn!)
  • Water




Get your newspapers and/or junk mail and soak them, not to the point where the more weaker newspaper falls apart, but get it wet/soaked





Hang the paper out to drip dry on a line, or wherever you can hang it.  You only need to do this for a few seconds to a minute, the goal is just to let the excess water drip off, not dry it out.





Roll the Paper.  Now looser rolls means it will burn faster, tighter means it will burn longer.  After you roll the first bit, put it on top of another amount of paper and roll that into it, until you get the size of the log you want.  Now you can roll quite a bit each time, but don’t try to do too much or it will be a mess and a pain in the butt, this is just a learning curve issue, you’ll figure it out after the first few logs.




Once you have the size you want keep a hand on the roll so it doesn’t unravel, and use the twine/string to tie it securely (both ends and middle).  Set it somewhere to dry, let it sit for a day or so (depending on how large it is).  Stand it up so one end is up and one is down.  Sunny, Dry, Windy locations work best.



Now some of the paper may develop mold on it, so you can lay it on a rack if you want to avoid that.


Now just start your fire as normal and throw some of these logs on!







Want to help support the site? find out more here! Or just click the amazon link below, bookmark it and go there every time you shop on Amazon, it costs you nothing more, but they will kick back a portion of your purchase to the site to help run things smoothly and keep you informed!

Amazon GNP help


Click here to view the original post.


Presenting the Third Part of  Five Part Series on Litecoin/CryptoCoin Mining, Today we will cover Software Installation for Windows Based Mining Rigs.

If you Havent Read the First Two post, start here




WINDOWS INSTALLATION After you have finished your BIOS settings, put the Windows installation Disk into your DVD player. It should boot up and show this screen


Screenshot 7

Then It will ask you to setup the language, time/currency format, keyboard/input method (most people just leave as US).  Select your settings and click continue.

IT will then show a button “INSTALL NOW”, Click on that.




Screenshot 2

You will now come to the Product Key page, and ask you to input your product key

Screenshot 3



This will be found on the slip that the CD came in and should be 25 letters/numbers long, then click “NEXT”

Now it will ask you to accept the License Terms, do so.



You will now see this screen

Screenshot 4

If you are using a brand new Motherboard and building this rig from the ground up you will need to click “CUSTOM” on the bottom.  If you are using an old motherboard that had Windows 7 on it with the Hard Drive that it had before (i.e. you are using parts from an old computer you had) then click “UPDGRADE” More than likely all of you reading this would be using “CUSTOM




Now You will be asked to select where you would like to Install Windows 8.

Screenshot 5

If you only have One Hard Drive then you will see what is shown above, and only one will show up, click next to continue.  If you have More than 1 hard Drive (if you are building a Liteocin Rig, you wouldn’t, because that would be a waste of power and money??) then select which one you want to install it on. You can partition your drives, however this is a tutorial on setting up a mining rig NOT building a new Home Computer.  So just click next.


Windows is now coping files to you drive to install itself.  This can take a few, so if you need to fill up your coffee cup or take a bathroom break, you will be fine!

Screenshot 6



After this is done, Windows will restart itself, no need from any input from you.  You will see this screen as it restarts as well as updates on what it is doing (i.e. getting devices read 15%…..).

Screenshot 1

Windows may restart a second time before it is ready to go to the next step.


You will now see this screen

Screenshot 8

Now Click on Personalize, name  your computer, you can pick the color, etc. You can click through these options and set them up individually.



Screenshot 9


The “SIGN IN” section is where you can set up your PC using a Microsoft Email account (HOTMAIL/OUTLOOK)

If you do not have one, you can create one, if you don’t have one and don’t want one Click “SIGN IN WITHOUT A MICROSOFT ACCOUNT” and click next


ON THE NEXT SCREEN CLICK “LOCAL ACCOUNT” and here is where you will pick the username and password to login to your computer (Later on we will disable this so it logs in automatically, this is so if there is a restart on your system/power outage it will restart your mining rig, log in and start mining again, without you there).


Windows will now finalize your settings. And start to show you some functions that are new to Windows 8, just sit there and love it….. After the Demo is over it will continue to get the PC read, and install the apps.   You will then see a unfamiliar screen of colored boxes…this is the new Windows Start menu.  In the lower left hand corner look for “DESKTOP”, click that and you will now be on the Desktop of your Rig!

 WIN FREE LITECOINS with LTC4YOU!  No gimmick, I have played this game every day and they do payout! Disclaimer: I do get points for referrals, hence why I’m Pitching it





I Would create a folder on your Desktop for all the software downloads, etc.  I named mine “Mining” and then separated them into Different categories, this way it was easier than going through the “downloads” portion to find the right one.

All the software below you will install EXCEPT CGMINER and CATALYST DRIVER.  Download ONLY, DO NOT INSTALL  YET!


If you are using a USB WIFI connection to connect to the internet, have the installation cd that came with the WIFI and install that.  If you don’t google it on your other computer and download it to a Thumbdrive, plug it in your rigs USB slot and drag and drop it into your software folder.  Install it so you can get internet access.



Just google MSI AFTERBURNER or go to this link (MSI AFTERBURNER) and download the Latest Version of it.  Nothing really to do other than open it up once its downloads and then click settings on the bottom, and under the general tab (should be the main menu that pops up) Click every box (X) and click save.  This synch’s all the cards that are alike (i.e. 7950’s or 7970’s) with the same settings as well as unlock the voltage so you can “undervolt” your cards, which lowers temps and more power efficient. I have not personally used TRIXX, however I have heard no bad things about it, so you can look into that as well.


TEAM VIEWER (For help form forums) This is a free download for personal use, you can download here (Team Viewer), however this will install google chrome toolbar, etc onto your Internet explorer, which you don’t need.  This is used if you are having issues on your setup and a forum member offers to go in and check your settings and see what you are doing wrong.  Yes this allows someone onto your computer, but it has helped me multiple times when I was stumped.  Just be smart.


CATALYST 13.12 DRIVER This is the driver for your GPU (if you are using a AMD based, specifically the Sapphire 7950), which connects it to the computer and installs all the ‘parts’ needed to function, think of your computer as a house, your gpu as curtains, the driver is like the curtain rods and mounting hardware, without it its just a curtain on the floor, this puts everything where it needs to go to work as you need it.   You can download the Latest Version Here (AMD DRIVERS) DO NOT INSTALL IT. 


CGMINER 3.7.2 You can find the index for all versions of CGMINER Here (CGMINER), I would go with 3.7.2, but I know of folks using 3.4 etc.  DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY VERSION NEWER THAN 3.7.2 (e.g. latest version 3.8.3).  You are mining for Litecoins which uses “scrypt” you don’t need to know what all the details, however later versions DO NOT ALLOW FOR SCRYPT MINING, so it wont work! Download it and put it in the mining software file. DO NOT INSTALL IT.


REMOTE DESKTOP APP Download the CHROME BROWSER (www.google.com/chrome)


If you have a gmail address already you can sign in on the main screen that pops up after downloading Chrome.

If you don’t have a GMAIL you can sign up for one. If you don’t want to Sign up for one you can sign up for a Google account using your current email (This may change in the future).

Go to https://accounts.google.com/SignUpWithoutGmail and sign up there for a Google account using your current email. Now sign in on Chrome and google “Chrome Remote Desktop” it will take you to the app page and in the Upper right hand corner click “INSTALL”.

From there you will download the app and move on to the…



You will see a screen asking you what you will use this for.

Screenshot 10



On top is a “REMOTE ASSISTANCE” for IT support, don’t click that.

The Bottom Option, “MY COMPUTERS” is where you want to go, click “GET STARTED”



It will install ask for you to enter a “PIN”, this is the code needed to remotely access your  computer so do not make it “1234” or something stupid, pick a good secure PIN.

You are now set up for Remote access.  This way you can access you computer, control cgminer and MSI AFTERBURNER, etc. from say your inlaws house 1000 miles away!


NOTE- to do this you will need to have Chrome Browser on your laptop or whatever computer you are going to use to access it remotely.  Then you will sign in with your google account, open a new tab and click the APP app Button and click on the Remote Desktop Iconrd.  Your computer name (whatever you named it during WINDOWS SET UP) should show up and then you can click that computer, enter the pin and click connect.


DO NOT TRY THIS NOW.  YOU HAVE TO CONFIGURE CGMINER to allow for this or it will crash!! We will go over this again at the very end (after cgminer is finished and you are successfully mining).   




I have outlined how to do this on a Youtube Video (HOW TO GET A LITECOIN WALLET 101) as well as written a overview Blog post on Litecoin and the different types of wallets and ways to store your coins.  Choose whats best for you as fare as storage, but you will need to have an address to have your mined coins sent to.


Watch the Video or just follow these steps


Go to www.litecoing.org


Download the appropriate file based on your operating system (Window, Mac, Linux) Allow for a lot of time for the Wallet to get synchronized with the network.


Go into the “RECEIVE” tab and on the right is your “address”


Go up top in the “RECEIVE” Tab and click to “encrypt your address” this is basically asking you to create a password.



I would go to random.org and create a 24 digit random password of upper/lower case letter, numbers and symbols.

Encrypt it and write down and store in a SAFE location your address and your password.


Your address is fine to be public you can write that down on a piece of paper and leave it next to your computer, or email it to yourself, whatever you want to do.

Just keep the password secret.

You now have a Litecoin Wallet.

This is not 100% secure (neither is online banking), so please consult my post on how to store your coins more securely. (LINK TO POST)



There are many pools out there, I personally used COINOTRON (as well as TEAMDOGE.com and LITEGUARDIAN.com) currently, but you can choose whatever one you want, compare them and make your own decision.

Basically you will sign up on their website

Inside your account info you will need to input your Litecoin address (which you should have after setting up your wallet, but you don’t necessarily need until you are ready for a payout).  Re verify that you address is correct after inputting it, you don’t want to mine for awhile and realize someone else has been getting all the benefits of your hardwork.

Check to see what the fees are in your pool.  Currently (December 2013) the Fees are 0% for payouts above 1.5 Litecoins, so you don’t pay any fees when you “get paid” unless its for less than that.  Make sure you set your “Payout Threshold” at 1.5 or whatever you want it to be, this is the number that triggers a payment. For instance if your Threshold is ‘5” once you mine 5 litecoins it sends those 5 to your address.  If you do not have a Litecoin (or whatever coin you are mining) address yet you will want to set the threshold high so that it doesn’t send your coins to the server owner.  So, set it high and set up the wallet whenever you are ready to be paid.


However there are fees based on whether you are paid by..

You will select one of these when you create your “worker”



PPS is more risky for pool operators for many reasons, I don’t want to get into details about blocks, orphaned blocks, etc.  you can research them through your own pool.

PPS can offer higher payouts but it’s a higher fee on your mined coins while RBPPS has lower fees, I currently use RBPPS, its reliable and easy.

You will then set up your “worker”, most likely you aren’t looking to get real detailed with all of this, no more than is necessary, so for simplicities sake we will just consider one pool, one coin.  I am not looking to write the end all be all of Litecoin mining and ALL its “ins and outs” This is meant for the average person just looking to get in and make it as easy as possible.

So you will set up a worker, you will see where it asks to create the workser username and password.

Your workers username will be your SIGN IN NAME (to sign into coinotron from the main page) + whatever you input. So lets same my Sign in is JSMITH and I set my worker username to “1” my worker username that will be used for mining will be “JSMITH.1”.  Whatever you enter for your password is up to you.  However as you will see in the 4th post setting up cgminer, you will need to know your worker username and password.


Once you have done this you are good, you are now part of a Mining Pool, which although means you make less than if you were solo mining, it is difficult, if not impossible (pretty much impossible for any existing coin) to solo mine anymore.  I am more interested in consistent and constant streams of coins than hoping for my solo mining rig to hopefully find a block and solve it.


Stay Tuned for the next Installment of Part 4 and 5 of my Series on how to set up a Mining Rig!





Want to help support the site? find out more here! Or just click the amazon link below, bookmark it and go there every time you shop on Amazon, it costs you nothing more, but they will kick back a portion of your purchase to the site to help run things smoothly and keep you informed!

Amazon GNP help


Click here to view the original post.

By By GunsmithG
The task of selecting a handgun for personal protection can be a daunting one for a novice. It is my hope lend a little clarity to this process. First of all, I’m writing this for a true beginners point of view. I don’t want to pass up anything that would be “common knowledge” to those acquainted with firearms.
To begin with,


Click here to view the original post.




Today I present the second part in a 5 part series on how to build and run a Crypto Coin Mining Rig, with this you can mine any SCRYPT based currency such as Litecoin, Dogecoin, RonPaul Coin, etc.

If you haven’t read the First Post in this Series, What to Buy, Start there.



I used a milk crate for the “case” of the computer *(If you want to see the PVC version I also built It is at the end of the post) , this offers a very cheap option for the case as you can pick them up for around $6 on Amazon or you can just keep your eye out on craigslist or garage sales, I was able to pick up a few for free from a neighbor.  The milk crate also offers a very open area for cooling as you will need this since the GPU’s (Graphic Processing Units) will get VERY HOT and need a lot of cooling.   You will not want to use a classic closed case like most computers have, since they will overheat and shut down (or if you are not careful burn up).  You can also make your own out of steel/aluminum frame or even wood if you so choose, however a milk crate works great and is cheap.

NOTE: With a standard Milk crate size, 6 GPU (even 5) was sort of pushing it space wise (4 is fine!).  So if you are planning on building a 6 GPU at any point, I would possibly look into getting a 24qt Milk crate, which are more expensive.  You could also just put a metal bracer on the lip as I did  and cut the sides out so you can add one or two more GPU’s.


I ended up cutting sections out of my milk crate to allow easier access to the USB and other plug ins on the Motherboard and Graphics cards as well as allow for better cooling of the GPU’s.


I cut a section out so that the power cords to the Motherboard and CPU were not in the way of the GPU’s and ziptied them to the frame so they would not come loose.


Pull the Motherboard out and set it in the milk crate whichever way it fits best, The layout for my Motherboard is above and you can see where the PCI slot for the GPU’s are, and you can see where the GPU will rest on the crate.


I also noticed that the GPU’s were heavy and pulling the side in so I bought a metal frame used for shelving for $2.44, cut and screwed it into that side and then drilled holes to put the GPUS in.


This is skipping ahead a bit, but put in the PCI riser on the GPU


On the frame of the GPU it should be pretty easy to figure out what is the attachment frame part ( SEE PHOTO ABOVE), L shaped and metal vs….nothing.  Put this on the lip of the Crate.


Holding your GPU with one hand use the other to connect the other end of the Riser (small end) to the Motherboard, the First PCI slot that is closets to the CPU.  As seen in the photo below.


Now move the GPU as far over as you can, you don’t want it tight tight, but so there is the tiniest bit of slack in there, don’t want it to pull out of the Motherboard if its moved at all.

Then mark on the metal where that hole is


I then keep that first GPU where it is and put a second one next to it a few inches away, then remove the first one and mark where the second hole should go, then hold the second one, pull the first GPU you just removed and place it a few inches away where the 3rd will go and continue on until you have marked where all the GPU’s will be.


Now you may have to redo these if you get to the end and notice you have 6 inches of space left over, it’s a bit of trial and error and depends on if you are running, 3,4 or 6 GPU’s.  Since I am running 5 currently I only had room for a few inches between them, if you are only going with two or three or even four you will have more space between them, so you can figure that out on you own.

Then pre drill the metal holes with a small drill and then with the large bit (whatever size is needed for the screw).  Some have used nails, I did at first it makes it easier to remove, however screws hold them in better.

This should go without saying, but after you get those holes marked DO NOT HAVE THE MOTHERBOARD IN THE BOTTOM WHEN YOU ARE DRILLING HOLES, CUTTING PLASTIC, ETC.  You don’t want all that debris to fall on the motherboard and possibly stay in there and cause a short, or worse, your drill slips and now you have a nice gouge in the board, more than likely rendering it useless.  After making the marks, pull it out and set it on the Static Bag it came in.




Now the GPU’s even with the screw may sag, so I installed a bracket about ¾ way down the GPU to hold it up, make sure it isn’t interfering with anything and hold one in (if they are all the same) to wee where to screw in your bracket.  Now with a metal lip and screw you shouldn’t really need it, but I like to go overkill and it makes it easier to move them around slightly to make uniform air circulation between cards, I used some old plant pot holders for this



Once I got the right distance I screwed in both of them to get the holds in there, then I removed them since the Motherboard can’t be put in or pulled out with them installed.  Now your GPU’s can rest on this.



I put down paper bowls to stand the Motherboard up on since the PCI Riser Cables would not stretch far enough if the motherboard was sitting on the bottom of the milkcrate.  This also allows for more circulation below the motherboard, however you can buy the 12 inch risers if you so choose to, I have 6 inch, but the 12 inch will allow even more airflow between the motherboard and GPU’s.  This is a better option if you are building a custom case from metal frame, wood, etc. as it will help with cooling.  I may do this in the future but at the moment the Milkcrate works fine.



Grounding and its necessity depends on who you talk to, some say its ABSOLUTELY necessary, some say they have never done it except in special circumstances.  I erred on the side of caution and built my own grounding cord.


I first got an anti-static wristband (you can pick up for around $6) and then I grabbed some spare CATV Cable from the garage.  You can use cord that has copper line in it as long as it is long enough to reach from where you ground it to where you are working (obviously, but check first!).  I then stripped one end about 6 inches to the copper and one end about an inch or two.  BE CAREFUL WHEN STRIPPING THAT YOU DON’T CUT THE COPPER IN HALF!

Grounding with Cold Water Line under Sink

I then wrapped the 6 inch piece of copper around the metal on the cold water pipe under the sink and the other end was clamped with my anti-static wristbands alligator clamp.  Now you can also cut down on static electricity by not wearing socks on carpet; as you know rubbing your socks on carpet will build up a charge, so don’t do it if it’s possible.   The amount of static electricity needed to fry the circuits on a  computer is so small you wont even know you did it.  Chances are you will be fine without this, but why take the chance?





The Motherboard should be sitting on the Static Bag you laid it on after getting the GPU spacing from earlier.

You don’t have to do the hardware installation on the Motherboard in any particular order as it all has to be done before you turn it on.

Consult the manual that came with the Motherboard and/or Internet to see the Layout of the Motherboard and what is labeled what so you are putting your components in the right place





I first installed the CPU (Central Processing Unit), this is the brains of the computer, what INTEL sells, etc.

I used a Intel Celeron 2.6mhz Processor, which is not powerful, but a miner doesn’t need a fast one, as all the work is done in the GPU’s.

Take the Processor out of the package, being careful not to touch the underside of the Processor, which you can see is different from the topside which is smooth.



On my Motherboard there was a latch that you had to pull out and up to open, with a plastic case that was removed BEFORE YOU CLAMPED DOWN THE CPU.


Once that was flipped up I placed the CPU, flat/shiny side up lining up the indents on the CPU with the indents on the Motherboard.



Then I clamped it down, its ok if it seems to need a little force, as long as its right side down and lined up with the indents, this is normal.



Then I installed the CPU Fan, which contains 4 little posts that are pushed down in the corresponding holes around the CPU.


There is a cord that runs around this and goes to the CPU fan plug on the motherboard, make sure that this cord can reach it no problem, and then press down on the posts until you hear a click then turn them in the direction of the arrows that you see on the posts.

You now have installed the CPU




There is only need for one RAM (4gb for Windows ) so all you need to do is find one of the Slots for RAM and press it in until you hear it click.


 WIN FREE LITECOINS with LTC4YOU!  No gimmick, I have played this game every day and they do payout! Disclaimer: I do get points for referrals, hence why I’m Pitching it







It sucks but don’t mess around with damaging/destroying thousands of dollars of equipment to save you 5 minutes.  Be patient.



This is your Power Supply Unit, I used a LEPA 1600w (because I will be creating a 6 GPU system eventually, the models I listed in Chapter 1 for a 4 GPU system will work fine), you will also want to consult the “layout” of what goes where, however It should be labeled.



Leave it unplugged until you are ready to turn it on, you can FRY your system or components by having it on and plugging /unplugging it.



My PSU had these two slots to power the CPU and Motherboard, you will plug those two ends into the cpu and then plug them into the corresponding slots on the Motherboard.


LEPA 1600 Layout

This should be labeled on the Motherboard in Shorthand, but consult the layout as well, but since there are only two slots on the Motherboard (most likely) that can take these two plugs and they are different sizes it should be pretty intuitive and easy to guess what goes where!


These cords may not “click”, but you can tell when they are in, then pull them throw the slot you cut for them and zip tie them in so they are not in the way of the GPU’s (place a couple GPU’s where they would go and make sure that they don’t rest on the power cords, you will want the power cords to have some give in them so they are not being tugged on and pull out of the Motherboard and shut the whole system down, but not looping so high they hit the GPU.  The rubbing of the GPU can end up rubbing through (after along time) into the power cord.  A bad day.

SSD (Single State Drive)


I used a 32 gb SSD (Solid State Drive), this is easy to install.


Pull out the SATA cord and plug it in the SSD, this will be the 90 degree L side (cords may vary)


I just wanted to make sure the Straight plug went into the motherboard for ease of use and space saving.  It doesn’t matter for function which side goes in where.


Then mount the SSD on your case using zip ties or it can lay on the desk, whatever is easiest for you.


Now plug in the SSD to the MOLEX power cord. The side for the drive will be any one of the multiple MOLEX 4 PIN  on the PSU (See layout above).  Then plug it into the PSU





Now you are almost ready to start up.  Do not install the GPU’s yet, just leave them in their boxes, but you can plug in the GPU power cords to the PSU

gpu cord

The power cords will look like this


LEPA 1600 Layout


Plug the 12 pin connector into the PSU in the GPU Slots (Consult Layout and markings on your PSU, above is marked Red/orange).  The orange end (6 pin + 2 pin, for my PSU, yours may vary) will plug into the GPU.

For the next Chapter you will need to have a DVD drive, I picked up a cheap one off Amazon for around $30 that plugs in to the USB, you won’t need it after the installation of windows.  You will also need to have a spare monitor, keyboard and mouse.

Once you get everything done, these DO NOT need to be kept on the system unless you have them extra and just feel like keeping them on there.  You can actually install remote desktop programs so you can control your miner from your laptop wherever you are at the moment.

I had a spare monitor, keyboard and mouse laying around, but you can use the ones from your desktop for this, don’t need to buy them.





Make sure your monitor has a DVI CABLE, the reason being is that your GPU cards have a DVI Female connector.  If your monitor Does NOT and uses a VGA (smaller and blue), you can buy this…


VGA to DVI ADAPTOR, as this will be needed to plug into the motherboard first when installing software and later into the GPU’s.

If you don’t know what connector your monitor uses look at the pictures below







Now Plug in your monitor to the DVI Slot (Shown above, your layout may vary) on the Motherboard, and plug in your Keyboard and MOUSE into the USB Slots on the Motherboard (if you are using a USB Wifi connector plug that in as well, However ETHERNET is better)


If you are using a hardwire Ethernet connection for your internet plug that in as well

Belking 4 port USB hub

You may also find that there are only a couple USB ports on your motherboard but you need more than that to plug everything in.  You can purchase a USB HUB online for under $20 and this gives you multiple USB slots and only takes up one slot on the USB port on the Motherboard.

Stay Tuned and Friday I will Present the 3rd part of this 5 part series, Operating System and Software Installation.


* I Mentioned the PVC Case I built at the beginning of the post here it is*

I wont go into detail how I built it, just give you dimensions

You will need about 2 8′ long sections of 1/2″ PVC Pipe

Cute them into these dimensions

  • 4- 2 foot sections (For Length)*Study Photo
  • 4 6″ sections (For Height)
  • 4- 2″ pieces (length from “T” ‘s a front, first level and back side for height second level)
  • 2- 6 1/2″ pieces (to attach first level front to the back from the “T” ‘s)

You will also need

  • 4 – “T’ joiners
  • 8- 90 degree joiners
  • PVC Glue
  • Cardboard/Wood for bottom panel for Motherboard to Rest on




*Photo and plans courtesy of wilsafris.wordpress.com*








Want to help support the site? find out more here! Or just click the amazon link below, bookmark it and go there every time you shop on Amazon, it costs you nothing more, but they will kick back a portion of your purchase to the site to help run things smoothly and keep you informed!



Amazon GNP help

The Day We Fight Back: Join in protesting the Surveillance State.

Click here to view the original post.



Today is the day we en-masse contact our elected representatives to show them we are not complacent sheep willing to hand over our liberties to the Surveillance State.

A Banner should be appearing below, if not click the picture above to go to the main site and sign up to email/call your elected representatives and let them know you want this to STOP.


Thank you for doing your part.




Want to help support the site? find out more here! Or just click the amazon link below, bookmark it and go there every time you shop on Amazon, it costs you nothing more, but they will kick back a portion of your purchase to the site to help run things smoothly and keep you informed!



Amazon GNP help

Episode 25: Glen Tate of 299 Days: The Cabela Prepper

Click here to view the original post.

299 Days Book Series Book 7 CHange of Seasons

Today we once again talk to Glen Tate, author of the 299 Day Book series.

Today we Talk about

  • Updates on his latest addition to the Series (Book 7, 299 Days: Change of Seasons).
  • “Cabelas Preppers” and the danger of buying the gear but not having the training or mindset needed to survive.
  • Why it is more important to Prep than to not just to make your spouse/significant other happy.
  • The Lack of mental resiliency in our children and how that will play out in the coming troubles
  • Planning for people to come to you in hard times
  • And much more!

The 299 Day Book Series is available on Amazon and Barnes and Nobles, and you can pick them for any platform from hardcopy to Kindle /Nook and Ipad.





The 299 Days Website : http://www.299days.com

The Article Glen wrote we spoke about in the interview: http://299days.com/ill-come-to-your-place-when-shtf-no-you-wont/





Want to help support the site? find out more here! Or just click the amazon link below, bookmark it and go there every time you shop on Amazon, it costs you nothing more, but they will kick back a portion of your purchase to the site to help run things smoothly and keep you informed!



Amazon GNP help

Strategies to Save Money on Health Care

Click here to view the original post.

We’re exploring strategies to save money on healthcare because your financial survival will definitely effect your family’s health issues. We are all aware of the cost of healthcare and prescription drugs. The loss of a job or your life’s savings can have a significant effect on your health in many ways.