Don’t Count Your Chickens Before They Hatch–and other lessons on raising chickens

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Don't Count Your Chickens Before They Hatch and other lessons on rasising chickens

When we first started raising chickens nearly 5 years ago, our local municipal limit of 30 birds seemed like a very large number. Not anymore. This summer we’ve hatched 3 batches of chicks, 20 new babies in total, adding to the 2 dozen adults we already had. After taking our oldest hens out to a friend in the country, we’ve currently got…..29 chickens.

We decided to keep chickens to be more self-sufficient with our food. And although we’re “urban farming” on 1/10 acre city lot, and dreaming of a country acreage someday, we’re doing absolutely all we can to maximize our space and our food production where we are now. But until this year, we’ve gotten our chicks and chickens from other people or hatcheries or the feed store. Raising them ourselves this summer has taught us a few things about raising our own food long term.

Have Research and Reference Materials on Hand

Even after keeping chickens for several years, this new phase gave us so many questions! How long does it take after you introduce the rooster before the hens lay fertilized eggs? What if you remove the rooster–how long are eggs still fertile? How many days does it take for the eggs to hatch? How many eggs can one hen sit on at a time? What if she gets off the nest? What’s the development like inside the egg? How do you know if an egg won’t hatch? How long after the first one hatches should you wait for the rest? We have several homesteading books on my shelf, but I checked out another whole stack from the library as well. After this experience, I plan to add more specific books for each type of animal we own or want to own, as well as veterinary reference books. Keeping animals can constantly bring new situations, so a well-stocked reference bookshelf is essential.

Even after keeping chickens for several years, this new phase gave us so many questions! How long does it take after you introduce the rooster before the hens lay fertilized eggs? What if you remove the rooster–how long are eggs still fertile? How many days does it take for the eggs to hatch? How many eggs can one hen sit on at a time? What if she gets off the nest? What’s the development like inside the egg? How do you know if an egg won’t hatch? How long after the first one hatches should you wait for the rest? We have several homesteading books on my shelf, but I checked out another whole stack from the library as well. After this experience, I plan to add more specific books for each type of animal we own or want to own, as well as veterinary reference books. Keeping animals can constantly bring new situations, so a well-stocked reference bookshelf is essential.

Plan for a Loss of Production

A lot of people don’t know that egg production isn’t steady year-round anyway. You have eggs coming out your ears in the spring, but by Christmas, you’re just hoping you get at least 2 to make those holiday cookies. This is largely due to sunlight and length of day. But when a mama (or “broody”) hen decides to sit on eggs, she’s probably out of production for 6-8 weeks. If she was laying 6 eggs a week, you’re out a potential 3 dozen eggs! If we were dependent on our chickens for a food source without grocery stores, we’d want to account for this by having extra animals. During the World Wars, the US Government actually encouraged people to keep backyard chickens, with propaganda posters saying things like, “Uncle Sam expects you to keep Hens and Raise Chickens!”  The rule of thumb was 2 hens per person to have enough eggs. I’ve read the rule for goats is 1 milking goat per person to have sufficient milk and cheese. If we were counting on our chicken flock (or pigs or goats for that matter), and if we had space, I might double numbers like these and plan to sell or barter any extra production.

TIP- Dehydrated and freeze-dried foods are among the easiest foods around for both everyday cooking and long-term food storage. Read  how to make and use dried eggs.

Don’t Count your Chickens before they Hatch

It might be an old saying, but it is definitely true. Our second batch of sitting was a total mess. After the first 2 hens hatched out our first 7 chicks out of 11 eggs, 5 (FIVE!) of the other hens decided they’d like to give it a try. We had 5 mama’s and 23 eggs…. to start. But they fought over who was sitting on what, and 4 eggs got left in the cold. Then they squabbled with a non-sitting hen who just wanted to lay her daily egg in the nest box, and 2 more eggs got broken. On it went for 3 weeks, and those 23 eggs only resulted in 8 chicks hatched. Let’s just say that on average, then, half the brooded eggs will result in chicks. Half of those will be roosters, so if we want 6 new laying hens, we’d probably want to start with about 24 eggs. You’re still not counting them before they hatch, but you are giving yourself better odds that you’ll end up with what you want.

Choose which Advice to Take….and Leave

When the first couple of hens decided to go broody and share a nest this spring, we decided to candle our eggs or check development by holding the eggs up to a bright light. Using this method, you can determine if any eggs are not fertile or have stopped developing, and discard them before they become rotten.  A rotten egg that breaks in the nest is more than just the worst smell in your life. It’s a very real danger to the other unhatched eggs and newly hatched chicks because it contains so much bad bacteria. We had a more seasoned chicken keeper tell us he’s never done this, and he prefers to leave the nests and mamas undisturbed. But we decided against this advice, and good thing, too, because with the 2nd batch of eggs, we had a rotten one.  It was a horrible smell!  And I have no doubt we would have had some very sick–and potentially never hatched–baby chicks if it had contaminated that nest. You can do all the research you like, and seek out advice is always a great idea. But at the end of the day, they’re your animals, and your family’s food source, so you need to make the wisest decisions you can for your situation, possibly regardless of what has worked for others.

Plan First Aid for the Animals

Survival moms spend plenty of time stocking first aid supplies for our kids. But when you raise animals, you also need to have first aid supplies for them. In many cases, this can just mean extra people supplies. Previously, for example, we’ve needed hydrogen peroxide and antibiotic ointment for injured hens. So when a 4-day old chick got itself stuck in some wire, we cut him (or her) out with wire cutters, and were prepared to treat him and isolate him if necessary.  In addition, a sick animal–even a chicken– may need to spend some time in isolation to recover.  In our case, we needed “maternity wards” to separate out some of the chicks and mama’s.  If these animals are your food sources, their health and well-being directly affect yours, so you will need to have a plan and the supplies on hand to treat common injuries and illnesses, including additional pens or shelters.

Don’t get Emotional

Keeping chickens (or goats or pigs) is primarily about raising your own food. Sometimes, you’ll need to make life or death decisions in the interest of the animal or perhaps the whole flock. Remember our little chick stuck in the wire? If he had gotten severely injured, we probably would have just put him out of his misery. It’s OK to be sad if you lose an animal unexpectedly, like to a predator attack. But don’t let emotion cloud decision-making about what’s best for an individual animal, the whole flock, or especially your own family long-term.

Consider Genetic Diversity

So long as we were buying our chicks or pullets each year from outside sources, we haven’t had to consider the genetic diversity of our birds at all. But in thinking about next year, we realized we needed to pay more attention to this area, as now all of our flock is somehow related to the rest. The result of inbreeding in animals can lead to sub-par production, or to deformity and death. It can also lead to sterile animals, so eventually you wouldn’t have any babies to replenish your stock. Make sure you plan your own flocks or herds in conjunction with some neighbors or keep records and separate pens to control breeding.  If you’re planning to raise your own food for self-sufficiency purposes, especially for those SHTF scenarios, you cannot overlook this aspect of animal husbandry.

Don’t Forget all the Free Science and Fun!  

Keeping animals for food isn’t all problems and calculations. It’s also so much fun!  The excitement over waiting for eggs to hatch, and watching the teeny baby chicks emerge rivaled birthdays and holidays. And it’s hands-on science for my kids. I can’t think of a better way for them to learn about embryo development, genetics, or zoology.

TIP- If you have considered raising chickens in your backyard but are still on the fence, read on to discover the lessons my family has learned.

I have already warned my husband that the day after we move onto our dream country acreage, I’m buying pigs. I think every lesson we’ve learned over the last few years with our chickens–including raising our own–can be scaled up or translated to larger farm animals in the future. Meanwhile, now that we’ve got hatching chicks down, a friend just asked us to keep her meat rabbits while she moves. Hmmm…..

If you keep animals for food, what are some lessons you’ve learned?

Don't Count Your Chickens Before They Hatch and other lessons on raising chickens via The Survival Mom

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