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I dunno about you, but sometimes I think there’s never a level at which I’m satisfied. Me, I’d say Im a 7. But…lets put it to a vote:

This poll is about to
start on 31-03-2018 01:00:09
and will end on 31-03-2018 23:59:59

But, we happy survivalists being a rather independent bunch, my definition of prepared may not be the same as your definition of prepared. But, for me, I’d say I’m an easy seven…prepared enough to outlast a majority of the population, but not so prepared that I won’t worry when the bombs go off.

2018 Preparedness Plans

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Trying to plan this years goals. Physical I have got and also financial. Preparedness stuff has been the hard one. 

Learning from past years I decided to start with a budget. Would like to say that I figured out a great amount based on my perfect zero balanced budget. In reality I took a SWAG at what should work and was conservative enough that it should be doable with a healthy margin for error and other financial goals. 

Check out the Top 10 Survival Kits of 2018. Plenty of good stuff for those in the market to get a ready to go survival kit. Worth looking at. 

I decided that for me $400-500 a month seemed realistic. Since there are 8 months left of the year I based my plans on those goals. Since I tried to put it into monthly goals not all are totally cohesive. In no particular order. 

– Scanner

– Primary weapons spare parts kits both backpack and heavy bug out. 

– Flir Scout

– Antibiotics and trauma stuff (generic medical beef up)

– Satelite phone 

– Ham radio (if I get my shit together and get the license)

– 1k 5.56, 500 rounds 9mm

– Freeze dried food and a couple propane cans.

Thoughts on the list? Thoughts on the order the stuff should be acquired in?

2018 Preparedness Plans

Trying to plan this years goals. Physical I have got and also financial. Preparedness stuff has been the hard one. 

Learning from past years I decided to start with a budget. Would like to say that I figured out a great amount based on my perfect zero balanced budget. In reality I took a SWAG at what should work and was conservative enough that it should be doable with a healthy margin for error and other financial goals. 

Check out the Top 10 Survival Kits of 2018. Plenty of good stuff for those in the market to get a ready to go survival kit. Worth looking at. 

I decided that for me $400-500 a month seemed realistic. Since there are 8 months left of the year I based my plans on those goals. Since I tried to put it into monthly goals not all are totally cohesive. In no particular order. 

– Scanner

– Primary weapons spare parts kits both backpack and heavy bug out. 

– Flir Scout

– Antibiotics and trauma stuff (generic medical beef up)

– Satelite phone 

– Ham radio (if I get my shit together and get the license)

– 1k 5.56, 500 rounds 9mm

– Freeze dried food and a couple propane cans.

Thoughts on the list? Thoughts on the order the stuff should be acquired in?

BBC This World – Norway’s Massacre

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This happened in Norway, gun control did NOT stop this from happening, & further gun control will not stop it happening again. These shooting are not about guns, they are about society & mental health. With no guns bombs, knives, axes, machetes have been used, even a compound bow could be used. 
We need to tackle gun violence & violence in general in a different way, it is thoughtless, stupid & pointless to keep banning tools & weapons & expect violence to stop.

How I Kill Voles

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Those first warm days of the spring have you outside in the yard walking around and planning that great summer garden. You walk through the grass and suddenly, underfoot you feel that give. You feel the depression just under the ground and you know there is something burrowing in your yard. Even with dogs in …

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Preparedness Quick Tip #17: Organize Storage by Date

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So what separates preppers from hoarders? Well, there is an number of things but one of the most important is how we organize our preps. If you are into your inventory management at all then you will have some method of organization in your storage plans. This goes for all categories of preps. Otherwise you …

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Book Review: Tactical Pistol Marksmanship

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Gabe Suarez is the real deal when it comes to firearm training. I have read several of his books and articles, and always find something worthwhile to cram into my brain housing group. Tactical Pistol Marksmanship is no different. It contains good points on selecting the right service gun for your needs, as well as some rules of thumb for what caliber it should be. I particularly found his tips on low light shooting to be useful, as well as the section on malfunction stoppages. His techniques are not always what is taught, but his explanations are well thought out.  I

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Tin Cans :12 Survival Hacks/ Uses

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No matter what where you go on this planet people have left their mark. I wish I could say that we leave these areas with great art or improvements but the fact of the matter is, we just leave our trash. Its really ugly. There is a serious problem with how much trash we have …

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Free PDF: Drying Food

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This is another Extension office document on drying food, this time it is from the New Mexico College of Agriculture and Home Economics. What I like the most about this PDF on Drying Food is the reference charts.  This makes it pretty handy. Drying or dehydration, the oldest method of food preservation, is particularly successful in the hot, dry climates found in much of New Mexico. Quite simply, drying reduces moisture necessary for bacterial growth that eventually causes deterioration. Successful dehydration depends upon a slow steady heat supply to assure that food is dried from the inside to the outside. Drying

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Magnetic Declination

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Declination: A Noun. The horizontal angle between the true geographic North Pole and the magnetic North Pole, as figured from a specific point on the Earth.”

 Declination is a term that causes “brain cramps” for many of my students in my map and compass classes. When I mention Magnetic Declination eyes roll.

The web site has an excellent discussion of what declination is and what causes it:

“Magnetic declination varies both from place to place, and with the passage of time. As a traveler cruises the east coast of the United States, for example, the declination varies from 20 degrees west (in Maine) to zero (in Florida), to 10 degrees east (in Texas), ……the magnetic declination in a given area will change slowly over time, possibly as much as 2-25 degrees every hundred years or so………. Complex fluid motion in the outer core of the Earth (the molten metallic region that lies from 2800 to 5000 km below the Earth’s surface) causes the magnetic field to change slowly with time.”

Land navigation is based on the relationship to the North Pole; also known as “true north.  The measure of degrees of direction in relation to true north is called “degrees true.”  Maps are laid out in degrees true.  Land features (buttes, mountains, streams) on a topographic map are in reference to degrees true.  By that I mean the bearing from one mountain peak to another will be referenced in degrees true.  The map below illustrates that point. 

Magnetic compasses do not point to true north (the North Pole); the magnetic needle points to an area that could be considered the magnetic North Pole. 
As illustrated below, declination data can be found in the diagram at the bottom of a USGS topographic map, (on some commercially produced maps it can be hard to find.) 

Because declination changes over time, I recommend that map declination information be verified at   This is essential in the Pacific Northwest where maps are notoriously out of date in terms of road,  and city data.
So, how do we make this simple?  How do we convert magnetic to degrees true?

I could do the math.  In Oregon, where I live, the magnetic declination is 15.6° East declination.

My recommendation: have the compass do the work so that there is no confusion with the math.

To do this, I need to choose a compass that can be adjusted for declination.  Some examples are the Silva Ranger or the Suunto M3.

With one of these compasses, the compass dial or housing is adjusted and rotated manually.  Both the Suunto and Silva Ranger come with a small, flat adjusting tool.  Consult with owner’s manual that came with the compass.

If declination is Easterly (Western U.S.) I will rotate the dial causing the baseplate’s orienting arrow to move in a clockwise direction.

   If declination is Westerly (Eastern U.S.) I will rotate the dial causing the baseplate’s orienting arrow to move in a counter-clockwise direction.

Now, adjust the dial and align the red magnetic needle on top of the orienting arrow (the red arrow engraved on the baseplate) the compass will provide directions in degrees true.

Starvation Island: Hunting Scotland’s Stags to Survive

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How about a stark reminder of what wilderness survival takes? From time to time we need the reminder that this life can be interrupted and you might find yourself in a kill or be killed situation. There is a weird desire in all of us to be in a situation. We want to know whether …

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Homemade Corned Beef Recipe (without nitrates)

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There is no denying the impact that the Irish have had on this nation. In just a few days you will likely be celebrating your heritage or the heritage of others that you know. While many of these celebrations are highlighted by things like green beer and clover, the food is a big part as …

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How to Beekeeping for Beginners: Langstroth Vs. Top-Bar Hives

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The keeping of bees has many benefits outside of just the delicious honey that they give. When we are talking about the condition of the earth itself, we all should have bees. Why would you not want to have bees on your property? They are being massacred by the world that we have since created. …

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What to do With Beet Greens (Instead of Composting Them)

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Are you growing beets this year? I don’t know why you wouldn’t be. You see, the beet is an absolute monster when it comes to your health. For me, the growing of beets is all about sticking them in vinegar and eating them pickled. I love those delicious little beets in vinegar and onions. Of …

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Internet Security Software : Which Antivirus Do You Use On Your PC?

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Everyone should be running some sort of internet security software / antivirus software on their computer to help protect or firewall against viruses, malware, phishing, tracking, ransomware, identity theft, and to help protect your privacy to the extent that you can on the internet. There are all sorts of bad things that can (and probably will) happen to your computer if you have no internet security protection. Looking back over the years I have used a wide variety of FREE and PAID antivirus / anti-malware software products. Every now and then (about once a year) I reevaluate what I’m running

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What Happens When Your Money Is Worthless? Living with a Devalued Currency

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by J.G. Martinez D.

This is one of the most important and valued articles to help you prepare. I think it could be useful, based on our experience with the … Read the rest

The post What Happens When Your Money Is Worthless? Living with a Devalued Currency appeared first on The Organic Prepper.

7 Edible Landscaping Ideas For Your Garden

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A garden improves the overall appeal of one’s property. However, aesthetic value is not its only strength. For one, you can grow fruits and vegetables to ensure fresh ingredients for your family. Instead of using trees and shrubs for ornamental purposes, it’s time to take advantage of edible plants. Here are 7 outstanding edible landscaping ideas perfect for your garden. Place Vibrant Crops in Strategic Areas Even vegetables can look good if they are organized. Place crops with vibrant colors at the front of your garden or at the center. Some of these colorful vegetables include scarlet kale, blue curled

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Why You Should Shoot Your Gun AFTER Cleaning it

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The title sounds pretty confusing, shoot your gun after cleaning?  Wouldn’t that negate the entire cleaning? The idea is, that after take apart your gun to clean it, you have to put it back together and perform a function check, but since you don’t actually fire it, you aren’t 100% sure that the gun works. In several law enforcement courses I have taken I have heard anecdotal stories of an unnamed police officer that has some essential piece inside their pistol break during cleaning at the annual firearm re-qualification, carried the inoperable firearm all year and never knew it did

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Learning to Grow Ginger and Turmeric in the Midwest

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As the mother of four wonderful children, I have been active in the nutrition and wellness arena for over 20 years now. I start every morning gathering the ingredients I need to make several different smoothies for my family. I have studied herbs over the years, and over the last year I have incorporated lemons, ginger, and turmeric.

I decided last December to find out if I could successfully plant and grow ginger and turmeric. These plants are not native to the Midwest, and therein lay the challenge. I bought turmeric and ginger root from a local organic grocery.

I allowed the ginger to set out and protrude into small bulbs before planting them about an inch below the surface of the soil. I have 2 ceramic planters on my front porch, which faces east, so they get the morning sun and about 4-6 hours of daytime sun exposure. These planters also have the cover of the porch during inclement weather and can be pulled back toward the house when needed.

I planted the turmeric directly in its own pot with the same sun exposure, also about an inch deep. I will say that patience is needed for both plants. As the first few months went by, I waited to see the first signs of growth peering through the soil. Soon, I was happily surprised to find the turmeric shooting up lush green leaves. The ginger followed with its own full leaves within a week or two.

I soon learned that both plants like to be kept moist, and I added a rainwater-catching system near the front porch to make watering easy. I have had no problems with insect damage and both plants quickly rose to at least 3 feet tall. I allowed both plants to grow as long as I could, covering both with a black plastic bag during the colder nights in November.

I began to harvest the turmeric when I could see the tuber peak through the soil on some of the plants. These tubers are easily snapped off, allowing the remaining plant to continue to grow.

Turmeric can be frozen whole, or grated into individual serving sizes. It can also be dried in a dehydrator or in an oven on parchment at low temperature.

Use stored turmeric later in smoothies, curries, or tea. Turmeric is a great anti-inflammatory. I use it daily and find that it makes a noticeable difference in the nerve pain I have in my feet.

My ginger was also growing well. Ginger leaves are not as round as turmeric leaves; they are thin and spiky. I finally harvested ginger late in November. I removed the upper stalks and leaves, and then dug up the root.  I harvested one third of the ginger and stored it in a covered box in the basement, where it seems to keep well in the dark, cool environment.

It was nice to harvest my own ginger, but we consume a lot of ginger in our smoothies, so it didn’t last very long. I replanted the remaining two-thirds of the ginger root in an indoor planter, because these plants don’t like temperatures lower than fifty degrees. I will move them back outdoors when temperatures warm up in the spring.

My first-year harvest was minimal, but the stock I have for next year is more than double what I started with initially.

Next year when I plant, I will allow more room for each plant, because they grew too close together last time and this may have stunted their productivity. I am also composting so that I can add fresh compost to their potting soil.

This first year has been a learning experience, and I know I will improve in the coming years. I am working on a vertical gardening idea to maximize my growing space, and I also have a big backyard to expand into eventually.

I created a challenge for myself and had fun proving that turmeric and ginger can be grown in the Midwest and other cool climates. I hope this information is helpful, and I encourage you to try it yourself. If nothing else, you will discover a beautiful new plant with lovely ornamental green leaves.

Note: This article was an entry in our October-December 2014 writing contest and was originally published on December 10, 2014.


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Watch: Water Filter Comparison

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This is a great little video on water filtration. If you are the owner of a water filter that you haven’t used you might be surprised at what it looks like when you do use it. You see these portable water filters will make water safe to drink. They will not make it free of …

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Introduction to Silencers – Part 1 of 2

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Written by John Hertig on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: This is the first of a two-part article on silencers by John Hertig. Part 2 will be posted tomorrow. And don’t forget to vote in our current Prepper Journal Writing Contest!

Introduction to Silencers

You’re watching a movie.  It’s dark, quiet, and the bad guy is creeping up on his victim.  He pulls out a gun and a tube which he screws onto the barrel.  He raises the gun and fires.  “Pfft”.  The victim slumps; nobody hears, nobody sees, the bad guy slips away into the shadows.  “Cool silencer” you may be thinking “Man, I’d like to get me one of them.”

First off, I’m sorry to tell you that not everything you see in the movies is 100% accurate.  In the case you just saw, the “silenced” sound you heard on the screen does not have a high degree of reality (or if you prefer, it’s a freaking lie).  “Silencer” is a LEGAL term (because it is used in the laws regulating such devices), not a technical one (which describes what they actually do).  The device in question does not “silence” the sound of the shot, it reduces it.  The technically accurate term would be “sound suppressor” or more conveniently “suppressor”, or even “muffler” or “sound moderator”.  If you continue to use the term “silencer”, everybody will know what you mean, and those with the common sense of a fruit fly will assume that the movie screen presentation of silencer  capabilities is accurate.  If you want to be thought to be “in the know”, use “suppressor”, or if you prefer, “muffler”; and those who don’t know what you are talking about can be educated.  Or maybe not, but at least the opportunity is there.

Gunshot Sound Theory

When a gun is fired, there are actually four potential sources of sound.

First, and most obvious, is the sound of the explosion which is propelling the bullet.  Explosions are loud and fairly identifiable as to location and cause.  They are loud enough to cause hearing damage to those close by, and can annoy people at some distance.  I’ll bet that the noise from guns being fired is the number one excuse used to close shooting ranges; it was for my old favorite.  Personally, I feel that if a person builds a house close to a shooting range, it’s pretty low of them to then complain about the noise, but that’s the kind of world we live in and the kind of people we are bringing up to live in it.  To paraphrase Star Trek, “the wants of the (whining) few outweigh the wants of the many”.

The purpose of a suppressor is to reduce the noise from the explosion to a level which is less harmful to anyone’s hearing and will reduce the annoyance to anyone within range.  To see how effective this might be, we need to understand how sound level is measured.  The scale used is in “decibels” or “db”.  This is a “logarithmic” measurement, where a 10 db increase in sound level means the sound INTENSITY has been multiplied by ten.  Oddly enough, to the human ear, it “sounds” only twice as loud.  The general base for human tolerance is usually considered to be 70 db, about the noise level of a vacuum cleaner.  Thus 80 db would be 10 times as intense (twice as loud), and might cause hearing damage if a person were exposed to it for eight hours.  And 90 db, from a typical gas mower, would be 100 times as intense (four times as loud), and practically guarantees some hearing damage with eight hours of exposure.  When sound level gets to 110 db, 10,000 times as intense, it can cause actual pain and damage much sooner than eight hours.  This is the level of a car horn at three feet of distance.  A sound level of 150 db can rupture eardrums.  Of course, the intensity falls off with distance, so the further away the source of sound is, the lower the sound level at the point of measurement.

How can mere noise rupture your eardrums?  Noise is energy imposed on the air; loud noise causes noticeable movement of air, and large movements of air can be heard as well as felt.  As the explosion pushes the bullet away, it is pushing the air away with equal energy.  A suppressor then attempts to “slow down” as much of this airborne energy as is practical, by making it go through a longer path and/or converting some of it to heat.  The effectiveness of a suppressor depends on many factors, but generally ranges between 15 db and 45 db, with a generally accepted industry average of 30 db.  Which is about the same reduction as is provided by typical hearing protection used (by wise people) when firing guns.  So if “raw” gunshots were, or could be, only about as loud as a vacuum cleaner, then the representation of suppressors on the silver screen might be possible.  But pretty much all gunshots are at least 140 db, with a few as high as 200 db.

So the suppressor cannot “silence’ a gunshot, or completely prevent hearing damage from the loudest gunshots.  If you are doing a lot of shooting of a loud caliber with a suppressor, particularly indoors, hearing protection is still a good idea, but for an occasional shot, a suppressor can be adequate to prevent noticeable hearing damage from all but the loudest calibers.  Note that the previous “standard of measurement” for silencers was “1 meter left of the muzzle, 1.6 meters from the ground”.  The distance from the ground was to include any ground reflection of noise at a typical standing position firing height.  The military is or will be going to a new standard which makes more sense: 6 inches from the shooters ear closest to the sound source, usually the ejection port.  This is a more useful measurement on the actual hearing safety provided by the silencer being tested; the maximum silenced sound level allowed for this measurement to be acceptable is 140 db.

Next, the bullet is ripping through the air, and the air doth protest.  In fact, if the bullet is “supersonic” (traveling faster than the speed of sound, 1,125 feet per second at room temperature), it creates a traveling mini sonic boom.  This is quite noticeable, and does define a line between bullet start and bullet end.  This noise, by itself, is not nearly as dangerous or annoying as the original explosion, but even if that explosion were completely eliminated, this sound would still be obvious.  The primary solution for this would be for the bullet to go real slow, but the slower the bullet, the less effective it would be.  So the best compromise is “subsonic” ammunition; that which travels at just less than the speed of sound.  There is still some noise of passage through the air, but no sonic boom.

In the case of ammunition which normally does not travel much faster than the speed of sound, say 1,200 fps, you can take it down to 1,000 fps (subsonic speed for a reasonable range of temperatures) and not lose all its effectiveness. In some cases, using ammunition with the heaviest bullet weight practical for that caliber is all that is needed, since the heaviest bullets tend to be the slowest version of each caliber.  But when you take a caliber like .223, which is very dependent on its speed of up to three times the speed of sound, it becomes a very anemic round indeed.  And there is another concern.  In a semi-automatic action, the forces and/or gasses produced by the explosion operate the action to chamber the next round.  Some of these subsonic loads don’t have enough oomph to do that, turning the semi-automatic into a non-ergonomic bolt-action.  And in many cases, subsonic ammunition is significantly more expensive than “normal” ammunition.  Take .223 again.  I found a subsonic round which claims to be able to operate the action of an unmodified gun.  The cost was over $50, and they did not say how many rounds were included for that price.  If fifty rounds, than that is in line with other high-end .223 ammo.  If it is the more common box size for rifle ammo of twenty, then that’s some pretty pricey shooting.  And if when they say “each” they mean each round…  Subsonic .223 which does not claim to cycle or even states it won’t cycle is in the $1 a shot range which a quality JHP or JSP round often runs, but is as much as four times the cost of the cheapest “ball” ammo of that caliber.  On the other end of the spectrum, 22 LR “match” or “target” ammunition is actually already subsonic, and there are some decent looking subsonic labeled 22LR choices which are even less expensive.

If a particular sub-sonic ammunition will not cycle the action, it is possible that the gun could be modified to work reliably with that load.  But then it might not work safely or well with other, more vigorous (normal) loads.

Speaking of the action, it is the third possible source of noise.  Usually this is not a critical factor, but I read somewhere about one machine gun about which it is claimed the action alone produces 115 db.  Fortunately, the noise produced by most actions is much more reasonable.  A revolver would have less action noise than a semi-automatic, but there is a required gap between cylinder and barrel which allows enough gas to escape that net change in noise level would not be positive.  The real way to eliminate action noise is to use a single shot, pump, lever or bolt action which could delay any noise or be worked slowly enough that the noise would be minimal.

Lastly, if the bullet impacts something solid, there will be a corresponding noise.  This can be fairly obnoxious if the impact is on a steel plate, much less loud on wood, and fairly insignificant on dirt.  Pretty much this is not a problem, unless you choose to shoot at steel targets, in which case this noise should be acceptable to you.  In any case, it should be far enough away that there is no danger of hearing damage, as well as from bullet fragments.  The only solution to target noise is to not shoot at things which make noise when hit.

Can You Get a Suppressor?

Probably, but it won’t be cheap, quick or easy.

Back in the thirties, when the country was reeling from the crime waves spawned by Prohibition, the people of the time (in particular President Franklin Roosevelt, who had just escaped an assassination attempt) attempted to get some control of the violence with the National Firearms Act.  This poorly written monstrosity imposes a statutory excise tax on the manufacture and transfer of certain firearms and mandated the registration of those firearms.  Aimed primarily at the “tommy guns” (Thompson Submachine gun AKA the “Chicago Typewriter”) and “sawed off shotguns” which were favored by the mobsters at the time, it contained the phrase “includes a muffler or silencer for any firearm whether or not such firearm is included within the foregoing definition”.  This meant that the same $200 tax stamp required for transfer of a restricted firearm like a machine gun also had to be purchased in order to transfer a suppressor, and still does.  In those days, $200 was pretty significant, over $3,600 in 2017 dollars, maybe “half the price of a Model A Ford” in those days.  Fortunately, it was an amount set in the law, and today it is annoying rather than crippling.  (HR 5103 is trying to up it to $500 with a built-in inflation increase.)

If you live in the eight states in which silencers are illegal under state law, or DC, sorry Charlie, no suppressors for you.  These states are:  Hawaii, California (of course), Illinois, Delaware, New York (also of course), Massachusetts, New Jersey and Rhode Island.  Actually, none of these is a surprise.  If you live in one of the other forty two states, check with your local laws to make sure they are no more restrictive than the state law on suppressors.  Note: Minnesotans, HF 3022 would add your state to the list of those which prohibit suppressors, as well as impose many other severe firearm restrictions.

Your next step is to find a nearby licensed dealer of suppressors (and other NFA firearms).  It has to be in the same state as your residence, and fairly close by, as you will be visiting it at least a couple of times during the process.  You are looking for a FFL (Federal Firearms License) holder who has paid a SOT (Special Occupation Tax) to become a Class 3 (can sell and transfer NFA items) or Class 2 (can make, sell and transfer NFA items) dealer.  If they don’t have a FFL and a SOT paid, they can’t (legally) sell a suppressor or transfer a suppressor to you and being caught with such an item will wreck your whole decade.

Once you find your dealer, either choose a suppressor they have in stock, or if you find one you like on the internet, arrange to have your suppressor sent to the dealer.  In either case, you will pay for the suppressor “up front”.  The dealer will provide you the forms you need to fill out and sometimes fill them out for you, needing only your signature.  For executing a suppressor transfer, the dealer will likely charge you a fee; if you buy the suppressor from them, they may or may not charge you this separate fee.  The more they do for you, the higher fee they deserve.  One copy of the forms goes to the Chief Law Enforcement Officer (CLEO) in your area.  The other two copies, with passport style photos and fingerprint cards, and the $200 transfer tax check, goes to the BATFE.  They will process it (it could take three to six months or even more) and return the tax “stamp” for that suppressor to the dealer, who will call you to let you know you can pick up your suppressor.  When you get there, you will fill a firearm transfer form just as if you were buying a gun.  The background check is performed by the BATFE, so (usually) you won’t have to go through the “instant check”.

There are three entities which can have NFA items registered to them and from what I can find out, no NFA item is ever registered to more than one entity at a time (with each change having to go through the entire transfer process and cost).

An individual is the cheapest and easiest and least subject to error, but is also the most restricted and the approval tends to take longer.  If the suppressor is licensed to you, as long as you are present, it is not a problem.  Let us say you have it at home and your wife (or any other person) is there when you leave.  If she has access to it, she could be charged with possession of an unregistered NFA item, fined, jailed and the suppressor confiscated.  To avoid this, keep it in a locked safe which NOBODY ELSE has access to (or at least nobody else who will ever be in that location).  If you want to loan it to someone else outside your presence or transfer it, the entire transfer time and process and $200 tax stamp would be required again.  And yet again when/if it is returned to you.  If you are declared temporarily or permanently unable to possess firearms, it is likely your suppressor would be confiscated.  If you die, during the time of proper probate, the executor of the estate can possess the suppressor and transfer it to the beneficiary specified in your will or by law (with the Form 5, but without the $200 tax, yay), but if probate or transfer is not (correctly) done, it could be quite unpleasant.  Furthermore, probate is a public process, so the suppressor and it’s beneficiary would be a matter of public record.

A corporation, partnership or LLC is an eligible entity as well.  These generally require yearly maintenance (such as filing federal, state and local taxes and various public information reports) and some must be renewed on a regular basis, and there is usually a fee for renewal.  Any authorized corporate officer may possess and use the suppressor, and approval is usually quicker than for an individual.  But if you don’t renew on time or otherwise dissolve the entity, the NFA items held by the entity will have to be transferred to another entity and a new $200 tax stamp for each will be required.  Unless the NFA firearms are used as part of the business, this would seem to be a poor alternative to individual ownership due to the complications if the owner(s) die or the business closes.

The last eligible entity is a NFA Trust, which like a corporation tends to have faster approval than an individual.  This has a number of advantages.  The Initial Trustee (the Settlor, the person who sets up the trust) has all the benefits of individual registration, and can add any number of Co-Trustees to the Trust who then have all the same access to the suppressor as does the Initial Trustee.  Co-Trustees can be removed if needed.  And the Settlor can set up Beneficiaries, who can inherit the Trust property, and Successor Trustees, who can take over if the Trustee and any Co-Trustees are no longer in the picture.  If you are declared unable to possess firearms, the Co-Trustees can take possession of the Trust property, and when the declaration is resolved or expired, you can get the property back.  There are only two downsides to this method.  One is cost.  A Trust is a legal contract, and lawyers are not noted for being cheap.  It may cost $500 or more, even lots more, to have a lawyer set up your Trust.  Alternatively, you can get some “do it yourself” Trusts off the internet or from some dealers for $150 or less.  The other problem is that many lawyers providing these Trusts are not experts in firearm trust law and could provide you a Trust which gets you a suppressor but fails to be fully correct, leading to you or more often a Co-Trustee not legally possessing the suppressor.  The same can be said for some of the DIY Trusts.  A properly set up Trust can make your NFA involvement much easier.  Being a Trust, the property (NFA items) possessed by the Trust does not go through probate, but directly to the Beneficiaries specified in the Trust, without the $200 transfer tax (the Form 5 is still needed), and will not be a matter of public record.

A NFA trust can contain any number of suppressors, as well as any other NFA items (such as Short Barreled Rifles) and even non-NFA firearms.  You can make your own NFA items (no full automatics though), for your own use, as long as you make application for each in advance to the BATFE, and pay the $200 manufacturing tax.

Editors Note: Be sure to read tomorrows post completing the set on silencers.

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How To Escape Unseen and Cover Your Tracks in Winter

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Let’s say the you-know-what hit the fan and you did everything right. You made short and long-term emergency plans, had multiple escape routes and somehow were still tracked down and captured. In a post-SHTF world, all bets are off. The world you would find yourself in is unpredictable at best. So what would you do if you were taken captive? Your only option would be to find a way to escape.

Related article: If You See These 14 Signs It’s Time to Bug Out

Timing is Crucial

So, when is the best time to run from pursuers?  Wintertime can often be unrelenting but could offer you an opportunity in this situation. If you know how to read the signs Mother Nature gives when a storm is about to hit, then you could time your escape perfectly. A snowstorm could be the best time to escape. The middle of a snowstorm will give you good cover and erase any tracks you make at the same time – especially with a good head start. That said, it is important for you to know beforehand and train how to navigate in the snow.

The pain is that the snow levels can be at a depth where you will need snowshoes. This video can show you how to use a knife to make snowshoes out of evergreens and cordage. (Your paracord bracelet would come in handy for this!) Now, with the head start, your snowshoes will leave tracks that will be almost indistinguishable in a few hours.

How To Cover Your Tracks

You can help it along.  Take a fallen branch…2 feet in length or more and drag this behind you over top of your tracks…smooths them out.  By the time the pursuers reach the area you’ve traversed, the falling snow will have done the trick.

Bear in mind this doesn’t beat the dogs, who track by both sight and scent.  We’ve discussed beating them in other articles.  This is for the two-legged “dogs” who pursue you.  Also, part of keeping your trail to a minimum is to look where you step.  With snow, to step on an embankment that may collapse on one side is a no-go.

Rule: Do your best to maintain the overall visual “continuity” of the terrain you’re traveling over.

This applies to any season, and it means to keep everything as natural looking as can be.  You can be aided in a snowstorm flight by high winds that will also help to blow the snow (especially if it’s a “dry” snowfall) across your trail.  If there’s a fallen log, don’t step on it or go over it…go around it if possible.  You want everything to appear au naturale to the pursuers…nothing out of place.  Take special care not break off any branches or step on any fallen timber and cause a fresh break.  Foliage that has snow on it?  If a man-sized patch of green shows through where small evergreen saplings are growing…they’ll know that a human passed through there.

Confuse the Trackers By Doubling Back

Doubling back is a good way to throw them off…if you do it right. You can reverse the snowshoes when you head back, as well…but you must make sure that you brushed over top of your first set of tracks before you double back.  A good tracker will also see more weight is distributed overtop of the toe area.  Lead it to the edge of a cliff and throw them off your trail if you can do it.  Want a good one?  Bring an extra jacket and an empty backpack with you.  Wrap boughs in it and throw it off the cliff, after filling the backpack with snow.

Your “dummy” will be partially covered with snow when they find it and they’ll waste time getting down below to check it out.  Time is what you want to buy yourself.  As many times as you can break off the main trail, throw a “division” and then double back, the better.  It is going to depend on how much time you have, and in how good a physical shape you’re in.

Covering Your Tracks in the Mud

During the warmer months, with the Spring Thaw, the first thing you’re going to have to deal with is the mud…and mud means a problem.  Mud means footprints, and mud that clings to your boots and is dragged with you…an exceptional problem when trying to cover your tracks. Due to the differing terrains, you will encounter this issue – especially in a rocky field with scrub grass.  Suddenly, tracks from “The Golem” are seen making a trail in the grass for about 50 meters.  Bad juju.

When transitioning from a muddy area to a terrain with little or no mud, you must have a way of taking care of this so that you don’t leave the tracks.  The answer: Teva’s.  Yes, the hardened-sole flip-flops that can take a rugged gravel creek bottom with sharp stones.  Pack these Teva’s and a sturdy plastic bag for when you’re changing the terrain.  Take off the muddy boots and throw them in the bag. Switch to the Teva’s for the entire time you cross the new terrain.  Switch back again when you come to more mud and slop to cross.

I’m a firm believer in using the creeks if the bottom is firm, as prints will be left in a muddy bottom.  For this, you’ll want to pick up some neoprene booties as well as some Rocky Gore-Tex socks.  Then you can protect your feet from the temperature of the creek.  Knowing the terrain beforehand is critical.  You can follow outcroppings of rock and submerged rock flats for a long way in a creek if the depth is below the knee without making any trail.  Bust up your travel of a trail and use both sides of the creek intermittently when you must emerge from it when possible.

One of the things you can do is to make yourself a pair of “boots” for the spring months…out of tough nylon or plastic bags.  Tie off four (4) pieces of broken branches to your boots, forming a “tic-tac-toe” arrangement of lines…making sure the ends don’t protrude too far from your boot edges.  Then pile some leaves and brush in your bags.  Step on this “mass” and then tie up the edges of the bag around your feet.  This will help you to keep from making tracks by removing your sole from the equation and giving you more surface area to distribute your weight.

You’ll have to repair or change it off every so often, so have an extra supply of bags you can switch off to.  The field expedient method is to do it with shirts or pieces of cloth taken from an article of clothing or from a sheet of material.  Just remember to tie up the corners, with the “biomass” of leaves and scrub beneath your feet.  Next installment, we’ll cover the dry summer and desert conditions, as well as some specialty information.  JJ out!



Jeremiah Johnson is the Nom de plume of a retired Green Beret of the United States Army Special Forces (Airborne). Mr. Johnson was a Special Forces Medic, EMT and ACLS-certified, with comprehensive training in wilderness survival, rescue, and patient-extraction. He is a Certified Master Herbalist and a graduate of the Global College of Natural Medicine of Santa Ana, CA. A graduate of the U.S. Army’s survival course of SERE school (Survival Evasion Resistance Escape), Mr. Johnson also successfully completed the Montana Master Food Preserver Course for home-canning, smoking, and dehydrating foods.

Mr. Johnson dries and tinctures a wide variety of medicinal herbs taken by wild crafting and cultivation, in addition to preserving and canning his own food. An expert in land navigation, survival, mountaineering, and parachuting as trained by the United States Army, Mr. Johnson is an ardent advocate for preparedness, self-sufficiency, and long-term disaster sustainability for families. He and his wife survived Hurricane Katrina and its aftermath. Cross-trained as a Special Forces Engineer, he is an expert in supply, logistics, transport, and long-term storage of perishable materials, having incorporated many of these techniques plus some unique innovations in his own homestead.

Mr. Johnson brings practical, tested experience firmly rooted in formal education to his writings and to our team. He and his wife live in a cabin in the mountains of Western Montana with their three cats.

This information has been made available by Ready Nutrition

10 Inexpensive SHTF Barter Items To Get Right Now

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Many preppers like to hoard cash and precious metals in case of an economic collapse. The cash is in case of a deflationary collapse where banks run out of money and cash is hard to find. And precious metals are in case of a hyperinflationary collapse where banks print too much money and cash becomes […]

The post 10 Inexpensive SHTF Barter Items To Get Right Now appeared first on Urban Survival Site.

Pet First Aid And Care On The Trail

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With warmer weather on the approach, many of us outdoors enthusiasts will be more than eager to get our rambunctious, cabin-fevered pooches out on the trail. There is nothing more appealing than having man’s best friend (be it dog or cat; that’s right, some of us do that!) out there as a trail mate. The … Read more…

The post Pet First Aid And Care On The Trail was written by Bob Rodgers and appeared first on Prepper’s Will.

Part 2- Single Mom and Fixed Income Solutions!

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Part 2- Single Mom and Fixed Income Solutions!

Part 2- Single Mom and Fixed Income Solutions
Dane… “The Gunmetal Armory” Audio player provided!

This show is a continuation of last weeks Budget Prepping Show. I had my wife co-host with me, and multiple listeners have requested that she comes back, so we’re gonna team up and do part 2.

In part 2, I will cover my usual intro, product of the week, announcements, and any Ask Dane questions and then we are going to go thru the rest of the extremely long list of preps we made.

Continue reading Part 2- Single Mom and Fixed Income Solutions! at Prepper Broadcasting Network.