Question from Reader: “You’ve written abut the best survival knife, the best EDC knife, the best hunting knife, fillet, pocket knife, etc., etc. Skip the options, the analysis and potential survival scenarios and answer this: What is the knife you have on you right now?”
Everybody needs a .22 rifle in their survival firearms battery. Some 50 years ago I bought a Ruger 10/22, and I still think it is the best choice for a .22 rifle. Here is why.
You’re driving home from work, something “big” just happened and you’re completely stuck in gridlock on the highway. You heard the news – it’s really bad and folks are panicked. But, you’re prepared for this scenario. You abandon your car, grab your Get-Your-Ass-Home backpack out of your trunk and start walking. How do you blend in with all the unprepared people, so you don’t become a target for muggers? Here are some ‘fashion’ tips to get you home safe.
The power goes out and you’re sheltering inside the house. Outside, the temperature plummets, the wind picks up and it starts to snow. You don’t know when the power will be restored. It might be hours or days. How will you stay warm and safe? How do you get started?
Survival food is sustenance and can be delicious, and made easily during a survival or emergency situation. Use mainly simple, long-term storage food items, cooked outdoors, using off-the-grid methods. by Karla Moore This week’s survival recipe is definitely comfort food, and it certainly could provide a much-needed morale boost under survival circumstances! Our family is transitioning to […]
I bought this bag several years ago, and received no compensation for writing this review. At the time of publication, Wiggy’s is not an advertiser on SurvivalCommonSense.com.
A reliable sleeping bag is a survival tool, and a faulty one can be dangerous. Here’s what I learned about Wiggy’s sleeping bags.
by Leon Pantenburg
My garage looks like a used outdoor gear store, with backpacks, skiis, snow shoes, boots and camping stuff in most available crannies. My sleeping bag collection used to be pretty extensive, with probably well over a dozen or so in stock. (Over the years, as my kids have left the nest, I have donated surplus bags to the local Community Center. My inventory is down to a more reasonable level now!)
When my family of five used to go camping together, everyone needed a good bag. Then, when my sons got into Boy Scouts, we were always going somewhere, and camping in all sorts of weather. I experimented with all sorts of sleeping bag styles, weights, insulation and shell material.
While I found a few bags I liked well, at some point, the insulation always deteriorated. When they got to a certain point, they were relegated to loaners. I generally could plan on a zero- rated bag lasting about two or three years.
About three years ago, on the suggestion of survival expert Peter Kummerfeldt, I took a look at a Wiggy’s sleeping bag.
Several things pre-disposed me to consider buying a Wiggy’s bag:
Made in America: The Wiggy’s factory is located in Junction City, Colorado. Today, all other major sleeping bag manufacturers have moved overseas, and Wiggy’s is the sole American sleeping bag factory.
Lifetime guarantee: Any Wiggy’s bag comes with a no questions asked guarantee.
Machine washable: The cost of cleaning a sleeping bag must be amortized into the purchase price. I’ve seen some sleeping bags come home from scout summer camp that had little hope of ever being really clean again. But Wiggy’s recommends their bags be machine washed after every use.
Lamilite insulation: Lamilite is synthetic, polyester fiber. Wiggy’s brand sleeping bags are the only bags purchased by all branches of the U.S. military, according to the website. The Air Force uses them in their fighters and transports. The Navy uses them on all four and 12-man survival rafts. The Army has them on aircraft and helicopters and the Marines on transports.
I ordered a Wiggy’s Thule, and it has become my go-to sleeping bag. After using it for several seasons, here is what I’ve learned about the product.
- The bag is very comfortable to sleep in. I’m five-foot, ten-inches tall and weight 183. The bag fits me very well. There are other sizes for bigger people.My five-foot, six-inch tall wife fits very comfortably in the standard Thule.
- The Thule came with a pillow that fits perfectly inside the hood. One of the worst things about sleeping in a mummy bag is that most don’t work very well with a pillow inside. The Wiggy’s pillow/sleeping bag combination is incredibly effective, and I never wake up because my head slides off the pillow.
- The zipper is well-designed and easy to use. A quality zipper is critical to sleeping bag efficiency and safety. A jammed zipper in the down position can reduce or eliminate completely the insulating value of the bag. A jammed zipper in the up position could mean you’re trapped in the bag.
After my initial field testing post, I got these unsolicited comments from Bardy Jones, a scoutmaster from Pelham, New York:
“Not sure if Wiggy’s hates me or will love me. Hate me because I am such a bad customer: Love me because why I am.
“I started a kayak tour company in 1988 and because I had bought bags from Jerry Wigutow’s previous company, I ordered 12 Wiggy’s 20 degree bags. Twenty years of use, 10 trips a year at least, washed after every trip = at least 200 washes and about 4,000 stuffing into compression stuff sacks. Makes me tired to think about it, usually my last packing task. The only damage to ANY of these bags is from a too-hot dryer that scalded the nylon off part of a bag. Most of the time they were line dried. They look used, which is fair, (sun from the line drying a part) and I thought about replacing just for a fresh look, but decided they did the job perfectly well.
“Every zipper works great, loft is better than new, the bags are awesome. I feel guilty to have been a one-time customer of Wiggy’s, but when you make a lifetime product, you only need one.” – Bardy Jones
In the final analysis, I really like the Wiggy’s Thule. For the type of winter camping I do in Central Oregon, it meets all my needs and then some. The Tule might be a little heavy for a backpacking bag, but on the other hand, it is just what you need for cold weather camping under most circumstances. The ability to launder the bag, and the cost saving from that can’t be underestimated.
But as frequently happens, when I get a piece of good gear, I generally get per-emptied by family members. The Thule has also become my wife’s favorite sleeping bag, and when we go out together, I end up with another bag.
I’m fine with that, though, and budget permitting, there will be another Thule in the family by the time summer camping rolls around.
Hardtack has been an emergency ration since time immemorial. Here’s a look at pilot bread, a modern day version of hardtack that is widely used in rural Alaska. And here’s why it should be considered for your survival gear.
by Leon Pantenburg
I’ve carried and eaten hardtack since my time in the Confederate infantry, and baking it is another history-related activity I enjoy. When I’m really going primitive, hunting with my flintlock rifle, I might pack hardtack, jerky and dehydrated corn for lunch.
But if you’d rather buy a similar hard cracker product for long term storage, take a look at pilot bread. It’s widely available and a good staple to have on hand. It’s sorta tasty, durable, and has a long shelf life.
If I had to describe pilot bread, I’d call it a salt-less saltine, but with a tougher texture. While the bread is hard, it is easily bitten off, and the texture is much softer than the traditional recipe hardtack I make. Pilot bread also has fewer crumbs than a standard saltine. A nice feature is the durability – pilot bread with peanutbutter and/or fruit jam stands up well to travel in a daypack.
Pilot bread is a common storage food item in Hawaii, and Alaska and The Diamond Bakery “Saloon Pilot” cracker is available in many stores. Sailor Boy brand Pilot Bread is well-known in the Northwest United States and Alaska, and I got mine at the local Food 4 Less.
It is “a very inspirational food” in Alaska, according to the Sailor Boy Facebook page. Alaskans are among the last to eat hardtack as a significant part of their normal diet. Interbake Foods of Richmond, Virginia, produces much of the commercially available hardtack under the “Sailor Boy” label—98 percent of its production goes to Alaskans.
Originally imported as a food product that could handle rigorous transportation throughout Alaska, pilot bread has become a favored food even as other, less robust foods have become available. Alaskan law requires all light aircraft to carry “survival gear,” including food.
The blue-and-white Sailor Boy Pilot Bread boxes are common at Alaskan airstrips, in cabins, and virtually every village. Whether it’s topped with salmon spread, seal oil or old-school Crisco and sugar, chances are if you’ve ever lived in rural Alaska you’re familiar with that long, rectangular, navy blue box. The Alaska Dispatch claims pilot bread is soul food for rural Alaskans -mothers give it to their babies to teeth on, village grocery stores, no matter how sparse, carry it on their shelves, and seldom does a hunting party venture out in the country, or a family head to fish camp, without a supply stowed away in someone’s bag.
Lots of people have their favorite ways to enjoy them: topped with cheese or Spam or spread with peanut butter and jam or honey. You can also spread them with ground meat, cheese and tomato sauce and make pizzas. some people even know how to make “pizzas” with them.
For more info from the Alaska Dispatch click on pilot bread
While I use pilot bread frequently, I also bake hardtack for backcountry trips and the bread’s conversational value around the campfire. Here is a very traditional hardtack recipe from the Civil War. When done, this hardtack has the consistency of a fired brick, and lives up to the nickname of “teeth dullers.”
- 4 cups flour (preferably whole wheat)
- 4 teaspoons salt
- Water (about 2 cups)
- Pre-heat oven to 375° F
- Makes about 10 pieces
After cutting the squares, press a pattern of four rows of four holes into each square, using a nail or other such object. Do not punch through the dough. The appearance you want is similar to that of a modern saltine cracker. Turn each square over and do the same thing to the other side.
Place the squares on an ungreased cookie sheet in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Turn each piece over and bake for another 30 minutes. The crackers should be slightly brown on both sides.
The fresh crackers are easily broken, but as they dry, they harden and assume the traditional texture.
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A tarp shelter can provide very comfortable sleeping quarters in deep snow. Here’s some gear tips to help you build that shelter.
by Leon Pantenburg
The original plan was to build an igloo to sleep in. Recently, Eagle Scout Sean Jacox and I were at the annual Fremont District Boy Scouts Freezoree, a winter camping event in the deep snow of the Oregon Cascades. Between us, Sean and I have built a couple dozen igloos, and we’re very proficient at throwing up a shelter.
There was about three to four feet of accumulation on the ground, but the snow was too dry for igloo making. The top crust went down for about a foot, then got grainy. It was like shoveling sand, and there was no way to cut blocks.
Plan B was to make trench shelters. The directions are simple: Dig a trench in the snow and cover it with a tarp.
The shelters worked great. Though the temperatures were in the low teens, both of us were very comfortable. But the shelters wouldn’t have worked as well without the correct tarps, equipment and techniques.
Here are some tips and gear for making snow trench shelters.
Get a big enough tarp: When it comes to tarps and ropes, I learn from Bob Patterson. (Check out his creds below.)
A basic tenant, according to Bob, is that people always choose a tarp that is too small. Remember, the area around the edge is a splash/blow-in (or wet) zone, he says, that is always wet in a rain storm and even worse in a high wind. This also applies to snow and sleet.
“I have two “go-to” tarps. Both are taffeta nylon, which is heavier than rip-stop but stronger,” he writes. “One is 12’x12’ and the other is 12’x16’ – I use the 12’x16’ the most. I’m looking for a larger one, but I’m not going to pay $400 for it.” (Here is a good go-to tarp.)
In a trench shelter, you need a large enough tarp so you can shovel snow up on the edges. This becomes important if there is wind and blowing snow. Also, the size of the tarp limits the size of the trench.
My 8’x 10′ tarp, which I carry for warmer weather hunting and camping, was barely adequate for my trench shelter. I would have been able to squeeze another person in, but the quarters would have been cramped. I’m upgrading to a 10′ by 12′ for snow camping.
Carry a good shovel: I consider a lightweight backpacking snow shovel to be an essential part of my winter Ten Essentials. Get a good one. Otherwise, that storm will blow in and you’ll be forced to dig with a snowshoe or ski. That doesn’t work all that well, and it isn’t efficient.
Another good choice, recommended by survival expert Peter Kummerfeldt, is the Snow Claw. This is a backcountry snow shovel that fits in a backpack, and works well on a variety of snow conditions.
I helped make a tree well shelter with a snowshoe, and it was a lot of work. You’re better off taking the tools designed for the job.
Know how to use snow anchors: Snow anchors, or dead heads, are nothing more than a stick buried in deep snow. Anchor each corner of the tarp, then shovel snow on the edges. (Here’s how to rig deadheads.)
That means, you should probably also carry a saw or something to cut branches for roof supports. I like the Swen Saw. I used one in the Boundary Waters several years ago, and friends of mine in Search and Rescue include them in their gear. I’ve carried a folding saw in my hunting daypack for years, for survival and meat processing.
Carry paracord: I always carry paracord, in every daypack under every circumstance. Take a minimum of 50 feet. You will use the paracord for tying down tarp ends, making “rafters” for the trench and a multitude of other things. Get the good stuff with seven individual strands.
Take along a candle: A candle can supply a surprising amount of heat in a snow shelter. I lit two in mine, and went off to eat dinner. When I came back in about 25 minutes, the candles had knocked the edge off the chill. It was still cool inside the shelter, but there was a noticeable improvement.
Probably more important is the morale factor. It gets dark early in the winter, and night may last 14 hours. A candle can light the interior very well, allowing you to read or play cards. It will help you pass the time, and stay focused on surviving.
Include a closed cell foam pad: The cold from underneath can suck the heat right out of your body. While you can rely on cutting tree boughs, and lining the floor of the trench, it’s going to take a lot of extra cutting and chopping.
A quality inflatable mattress may work, but make sure you get an insulated one. I’ve used an Exped Downmat 7 for about ten years now, and it has performed magnificently. It has kept me warm, even in below zero temperatures when it was the only barrier between me and the ice underneath.
Carry a space blanket: I’m talking about the sturdy, quilted blankets, with one reflector side. This will be the vapor barrier on the floor, and the reflector side will direct heat back into the pad and bag. DON’T get those flimsy mylar blankets that retail for about $2. They are fragile and tear easily.
Knowledge: This doesn’t weight anything, and you can take it with you anywhere. Before you go into the backcountry, anticipate a worst case scenario, then think about how you might deal with it. Consider what tools you need and what techniques you might need to learn.
Then practice. And prepare to enjoy yourself in the wilderness!
Robert Patterson is on my short list of people to go into the wilderness with. Bob is a skilled outdoorsman, an avid deer hunter, and for more than two decades, has done an annual solo, two-week canoe trip in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
His career choices make Bob a great guy to review gear. A retired firefighter and first responder, Bob was also an EMT, and his job required he be out in all sorts of nasty, cold Minnesota weather. (Bob knows his foul weather gear and is my go-to guy for questions about winter camping, rain gear or other survival clothing!)
Bob is also a retired member of the National Ski Patrol, and a certified rope rescue instructor.
If I’m outdoors, chances are I’m wearing wool. The WeatherWool Boonie™ is a hat to consider for cool, wet weather.
by Leon Pantenburg
I was sent this hat to review, and I will send it back after completing field testing. At the time of publication, WeatherWool™ has no sponsorship relationship with Survivalcommonsense.com.
Us follicle-challenged males who go outdoors become hat lovers. That’s my situation. I’m not completely bald – to my surprise – but with my DNA, a shiny head is inevitable.
So any time I go outside, I’m wearing some sort of head covering. In the fall and early winter that will probably mean a wool hat. I have a collection.
My most-used outdoor hat is a hunter orange Bailey. I got it in 1991 after starting hunting backcountry elk and deer in Idaho. That hat has been all over, and protected my head from rain, sleet, snow, hail and sun. It’s been folded, crumpled up in a tent, stepped on, wadded up and suffered serious use and abuse.
But I wore it in October on an Oregon deer hunt, and despite my wife’s persistent, ongoing campaign, have no plans to get rid of it.
A good wool hat is an investment for the outdoorsperson. My favorite style is a wide-brimmed hat, with a 2-1/2 to 4-inch brim. The 4-inch is best for rainy weather – it protects my glasses, and the back will drip off or hit the middle of my back on my rain gear. The shorter brim is great for urban settings, or when bow hunting in swampy, deciduous forests.
So the 100 percent wool Weatherwool Boonie Hat™ has potential.
There are a lot of reasons for wearing wool clothing. (Here’s several.) But in a nutshell:
- Wool is very fire resistant. Polypropylene and other synthetics will melt when a spark from the campfire hits them.
- Wool is warm when wet, breathes well and insulates as well or better than just about anything.
- Wool can be an organic, renewable and sustainable material with a tiny carbon footprint. Synthetics and plastics use petroleum.
- Wool sweaters and pants can be cheap and they are easily available – check out your local surplus store for bargains. Look for wool sweaters at thrift stores and garage sales.
- Wool garments seldom need cleaning, and when they do, a simple hand wash with mild soap will generally do the job.
Here’s the good stuff about the WeatherWool Boonie:
Design: The Boonie is made completely of FullWeight Fabric.
I wore the Boonie to walk my dog one night when it was windy and in the low 20s. It kept my head warm enough, but my ears got cold. Obviously, those conditions required a full-blown arctic quality head covering. The Boonie should be great in cool fall and spring weather.
Style: The Boonie hat has a shapeless, floppy brim, and many people, including some of our hardcore, elite military personnel, like it.
As my wife and daughter will verify, I don’t give a rip about what outdoor clothing looks like, as long as it does its job. (I have an ongoing struggle with my wife as she seeks to find and get rid of perfectly good outdoor clothing, just because it shows a little wear.)
But the floppy, Boonie style hat looks sloppy to me, and I look like a dork wearing one. After all, Gilligan wore a boonie with a 2-inch brim. I don’t like how the short, floppy brim can funnel water down my neck.
And Jed Clampett wore a floppy wide-brim hat, designed to make him look like a hillbilly.
Now, I’m OK with that hillbilly look. (Actually, Jed is one of my role models, and I admire his survival skills, wisdom and business acumen. Great time for a “Deliverance” joke…)
But I want a stiffer brim on that outdoor hat that will shed moisture and protect my head from the sun and rain. If I were investing in a hat, I would make sure it had a stiff brim. If necessary, the Boonie brim can be starched to make it stiffer.
Tall crown: The Boonie has a taller crown, designed to help keep your ears warm. It is possible to wear the hat a high on your head. Then, if necessary, it can be pulled down to cover the tops of your ears to keep them warm. The idea is hat the brim can also be pulled down along the sides to provide more protection.
That technique will work in cooler temperatures, but the Boonie is not a winter hat for cold weather.
Color: The Boonie comes in four different colors to blend in with various scenarios. I like the cammo pattern. It isn’t too radical, and it fits in well in urban situations. Get a solid black color if you are anticipating blending into an urban setting.
Quality: This is evident from looking at the tightness of the cloth weave, quality stitching, and overall design. Weather Wool makes quality products.
Made in the U.S.A: All WeatherWool products are made in the United States of American wool. Everybody in the wool production, manufacturing, sales and distribution chain makes a living wage, pays local, state and federal taxes, and contributes to their community. Buy American!
Do you need a WeatherWool Boonie?
Everyone needs some sort of head covering outdoors. There is tremendous heat loss through the head, and some sort of insulation on the head is needed to keep a person from getting sunstroke or overheated in hot sun.
IMHO, the popular baseball cap style is a miserable choice for protection from the elements. The rain or snow will drip down your neck, the brim is generally inadequate to block the sun or rain, and in general, the design is ineffective for hard use.
In hot weather, a baseball cap doesn’t shade your neck and cheeks, and sunburn is a given.
To me, that rules out that style of hat.
Do you need a wool hat? Well, it is interesting that some companies famous for their synthetic outerwear that now recommend and sell wool base layers. And despite all the research and technology, many military forces in colder climates stick with wool winter wear.
Here’s my take: One size doesn’t fit all in anything outdoor-related. A hat I don’t care for may please you. And the hat that doesn’t meet my requirements may be just what you’re looking for.
If you’re considering a quality wool hat, take a look at the WeatherWool Boonie. It retails for $115.00, postpaid. The Boonie may becomes your go-to cool weather hat.
There’s a reason this knife is a classic. It flat-out works.
by Leon Pantenburg
Show me a blade design that has withstood the test of time, and I’ll show you a prime contender for that elusive “do-it-all” knife.
The Bark River Seax may be that. I got one as soon as they came out in 2015.
- Overall Length: 10.125 Inches
- Blade Length: 4.8 Inches
- Cutting Edge: 4.6 Inches
- Blade Steel: A2 @ 58-60rc
- Blade Thickness: .187 Inch
- Weight: 10 Ounces
- Made in the USA
Pronounced “sax,” the Seax design goes back to the Middle Ages. Back then, every knife was handmade and expensive. The average peasant could probably only afford one, so of necessity it was used for everything, from cutting fibers on the farm, to whittling handles for tools to butchering livestock to cooking – you name it.
The peasant would have chosen his knife design with care, because a poor blade and handle design would have been a really bad idea.
But then the knife is used for whatever project I happen to be working on. In this case, that project was helping put in a garden. The Seax was used to whittle plant stakes, cut rope, twine and PVC pipe, open plastic seedling and fertilizer containers and it did some digging. The edge held, despite all this. A quick strop quickly got is shaving sharp again.
Later, it was used to clean some fish for dinner. A Seax sucks as a fillet knife, but it worked just fine to behead, gut and clean a couple of catfish.
Well, it’s been more than two years, and the Seax has found a permanent home on the knife rack. It is used regularly for any carving and slicing tasks that come up. The Seax is particularly useful for cutting lemons, oranges and other citrus fruit, as well being used a lot for slicing meat and fish and chopping onions, potatoes and any other vegetable.
This means the A2 steel gets stained from the citric acid. That is no big deal – the blade got a forced vinegar/lemon juice patina, and it has that well-used look I find appealing.
I’ve heard that other Seax users swear by them for butchering and processing large animals. I have done a lot of meat cutting and slicing with my Seax, but have not tried many hunting-related tasks.
Here’s the good stuff:
Steel: I love A2 steel. It holds an edge really well, and is easy to re-sharpen. A2 will get stained, especially if it is exposed to blood or a lot of citric acid. I don’t care. After two years of constant use, my Seax has a well-used, well-earned patina I find appealing.
Blade length: My favorite, overall blade length is about five inches. I find this to be the best compromise between a blade large enough to gut a buck and small enough to whittle small wood items.
Blade thickness: I favor thin blades because they slice better. With the tough, modern A2 steel, I don’t see a lot of need for a thick blade in this kind of knife. I can’t see an instance when you’d need the extra lateral strength a thick blade might offer.
As it is, I would like this knife better if the blade was thinner. Since it is used mostly for slicing and chopping, a thinner blade would work better.
Handle: The handle is generous, even for me with my large hands. The large diameter and ergonomically-designed handle provides a secure grip. Mine is black micarta, and my experience is that the micarta gets “grippier” when damp or wet.
Something to consider when buying any knife: Can you use it safely with gloves on? This is a big deal for me, since I am frequently out in deep snow and cold temperatures. The Seax handle is large enough to grip securely, even when wearing wool mittens.
Point: People looking at the Seax point will immediately notice how much it resembles a sheepfoot or Wharncliffe.
A Wharncliffe blade is similar in profile to a sheep’s foot, but the curve of the back edge starts closer to the handle and is more gradual. Its blade is much thicker than a knife of comparable size. Wharncliffes were popular with sailors because the tip’s shape prevented accidental penetration of the work or the user’s hand with the sudden motion of a ship.
This is another proven part of the design.
Spine: The spine is ground at 90 degrees, like an ice skate. That allows using it to shred tinder or scrape a ferrocerium rod.
Weight: At 10 ounces, this knife is no lightweight. A Seax could certainly do anything a backpacker might need, but at the cost of extra weight and tremendous overkill. Still, it could work very well as a survival knife.
Do you need a Seax?
Well, it depends on what you might be using it for.
A Seax is a hardworking tool that will take a lot of use and abuse without any problems. But it’s not particularly pretty, and most people won’t be all that impressed with it right off the bat.
Until it gets used. Then, you find the Seax works great for just about everything. Gradually, it will become that knife you use for just about anything.
Then it fits into that exclusive “that knife” category, composed of a few select knives you can depend on for everything. When in doubt, you reach for that knife. For me, that category includes the L.T. Wright Genesis, Cold Steel SRK, Bark River Bravo, and a few others.
You do need “that knife.”
Check out our other survival knife reviews.
One piece of gear you don’t want to have to improvise is a sleeping bag. If you can’t sleep at night because you’re cold, the next day is guaranteed to be exhausting.
by Leon Pantenburg
I graduated, less than penniless, from Iowa State University in 1976, and decided to go backpacking in the mountains.
So I did. Trips to the Bighorn and Pryor Mountains in Wyoming only whetted my appetite for more, and I couch-surfed at John Nerness’ house in Mountainview, CA, between trips. In addition to several weekenders around central California, my grand finale was a 14-day hike of the John Muir Trail in the Sierras.
My backpack came from Target. My clothing was whatever I had – at the time I’d never heard of cotton killing anyone. My shelter was a piece of visqueen. Freeze-dried food was too expensive, for the most part, so my diet consisted of such things as macaroni and cheese. I borrowed a Swea 123 backpacking stove.
But I didn’t scrimp on a few items. My Buck folding knife was purchased for $25 at the Ace Hardware Store in Lovell, WY. My boots were on sale at the War Surplus Store in in Powell, WY, for about $30.
But my sleeping bag was bought at an upper end backpacking store for about $80, which, at the time, was about a third of all my “assets.”
That gear was used extensively in the next few years. The Buck, a Swea 123 and the sleeping bag went on several major backpacking trips and ended being used on my six-month canoe trip down the Mississippi River. None of this gear ever let me down.
Today, I have close to a dozen sleeping bags, ranging from indoor sleepover styles to a pair of -15 degree winter bags. All have their specific purposes. You will decide what the best sleeping bag is for your needs, and here are some considerations.
Where will the bag be used? Location is important. I have slept on top of a sleeping bag in Louisiana, when the night time temperature was about 90 degrees, and snuggled deep in an arctic bag one night during a raging Iowa blizzard when the temperature got to -10 degrees, not counting wind chill.
Both bags were adequate for their jobs, but radically different from each other. One could not have safely replaced the other in those dramatically-different circumstances.
If you will be tent camping, you won’t need as warm a bag as if you’re sleeping under the stars. But that doesn’t mean you can or should buy a cheap, light bag!
Possible uses: The size, weight and composition of the insulation will all be determined by the potential uses of the bag. A backpacking mummy bag is different from a full-cut bag designed for car camping. The car camping or elk camp sleeping bag, that won’t be carried anywhere, can be roomier, bigger and heavier. If you intend to backpack, or canoe, you’ll need something smaller and more compact.
Mummy or full cut: These are the two main styles of bag.You wear a mummy bag, so if claustrophobia is an issue, don’t get one! (One of my mummy bags is so snug-fitting it feels like I’m wearing a loose sausage casing. It doesn’t bother me, but make sure you to crawl inside any prospective bag in the store before buying it.) A full-cut bag is roomier, but the additional bulk and weight makes it harder to backpack.
Type of insulation: Sleeping bag insulation can be broken down basically into two categories: down and synthetic. Decide before buying: What is the potential for the bag getting wet?
Goose down insulation is the classic insulation used in sleeping bags, and, despite all the technological advances, is still the most efficient insulation around. Goose down provides the most warmth for the least bulk and weight, allowing for very warm sleeping bags that are in very, very small packages.
But goose down insulation is USELESS when wet, and it can take forever to dry. This could be deadly: What if you fall in a creek, soak all your gear and desperately need to warm up? Or suppose part of the bag gets soaked inadvertently during a rain? I don’t own a down bag, and get along very well with my synthetics.
But some of the very experienced Boy Scout leaders I backpack and camp with do use down bags. They swear by them, and I must admit, the tiny, light bundles the down bags compress into is very appealing!
Synthetics: There are a variety of good synthetic insulation fills on the market, and
generally you’ll get what you pay for. Check the internet and manufacturers’ specifications to decide which will be best for you.
My first synthetic bag paid for itself in my first two days in the Sierras. Here’s an excerpt (to read the whole story, click on my 1976 John Muir Trail Journal:
Sunday July 25
“Last night was the worst I’ve spent in the mountains so far. It rained all night, and I got completely soaked in my sleeping bag. The rain started after I was sound asleep, and drenched me before I even woke up. (I’d slept under the stars, and not bothered to set up the tarp).
“The bag kept me warm, but it was sure was wet and clammy. Stayed awake most of the night. The rain kept stopping, then pouring down, so I kept getting wet, then getting wetter.
My camp was at 10,500 feet, so the temperature was pretty cold. Some of my clothes got wet, but I made sure to keep my boots dry.
“Got up, wrung out the sleeping bag and placed everything on rocks to dry. The sun is just coming up over the mountains, and the sky is clear. Looks like another nice day.
It rained, intermittently for nine days straight after that, and keeping anything dry was a real struggle. I’m glad I didn’t have a down bag on that trip!
Weight: Sleeping bag weight is supposed to be a determination of how warm the bag might be. But beware! A lightweight down sleeping bag will be very warm, while a heavy, cheap cotton-filled bag will be heavy and cool. A better indication of warmth is probably the temperature rating.
Temperature Rating: My experience is that the manufacturers are very optimistic and that these ratings are more a statement of purpose than anything else! My rule of thumb is to look at the temperature rating and subtract 20 degrees.
Also, some people sleep colder than others. My snow camping equipment consists of a four-season dome tent and a minus 15 degree sleeping bag. I have slept comfortably in that setup down to zero, during blizzards with gale-force winds. But my wife took the same gear on a June Girl Scout campout in Oregon and was very comfortable.
What about getting sleeping bags that zip together so the loved one can snuggle? Again, this will depend on the couple. If one is a colder sleeper than the other, both will be miserable.
Make your sleeping bag choices wisely. Otherwise, you may have some really long, uncomfortable nights to ponder and regret your hasty choices!
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In a disaster, no single item or piece of gear can absolutely guarantee your ability to purify water for drinking. But several carefully-chosen pieces of water purification equipment might give you a fighting chance!
by Leon Pantenburg
As a newspaper reporter covering various natural disasters, including tornadoes, floods and forest fires, I noticed a common aspect among all of them: Drinking water was always in short supply.
My first flood taught me that. I was working for the Vicksburg Evening Post and was sent to photograph the high water in Chickasaw Bayou, north of Vicksburg, MS. The nearby Mississippi River had reclaimed some of its flood plain, sending high water into a subdivision and forcing residents to leave.
I rode in a jonboat with a sheriff’s deputy, and we cruised the flooded streets. It
was Mississippi summer hot, the heat reflected off the muddy, nasty water and the bottom of the metal boat, and the deputy and I baked in the sunshine.
Though there were miles and miles of water, there was not one drop to drink (to update and steal a cliche from “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner”). I would have gotten really thirsty, except the deputy was prepared with extra water and willing to share!
I’m not sure anything could have made that vile floodwater stew after Katrina potable! But regardless of where you are, staying hydrated is one of your first priorities.
Where I live in Central Oregon, I am within striking distance of high desert, mountains, temperate rain forests, the Pacific coast and beautiful deciduous forests. I love to roam all these areas, and frequently, during hunting season, may end up miles from the vehicle and my backup water supply. But these areas all require different variations of hydration gear, and here’s how to decide what will work best for your region.
Here’s an important consideration before choosing hydration gear: How long will it take to work? Some sport bottle systems work instantaneously – you fill them up, prime the filter and drink. This can invaluable if you need to quickly re-hydrate a child or someone who is dehydrated to the point of medical emergency.
The chemical treatments, such as the Polar Pure, can require upward of 30 minutes to work, depending on the water temperature. Some filters just take a long time to work. Generally speaking, boiling is not a particularly quick operation. The time it takes to boil water varies, depending on altitude, heat source, shape of container etc.
Buy this filter.
Here’s what I carry as part of my hydration system, and so far, everything has served me well. (Many of these items are multi-use):
Water Containers: You must have durable, large capacity water containers available. If you’re out all day in the desert or a flood, for example,
there probably won’t be a place or chance to replenish your drinking water, and all you’ll have is what you carry. Also, you might find someone without any water at all. You don’t want to give away your backup!
- Nalgene bottle: I like the wide-mouth model, and modify mine with a paracord loop and duct tape. The loop is designed so the bottle can be carried on my belt, or tied to a cord to lower into a stock tank, depression or water source that is hard to get to. Don’t think you can just tie something onto the lid retainer – chances are it will break at some point, and as these things go, probably when you need it the most.
Duct tape is useful for everything, and around the water bottle is a convenient place to carry it!
- Platypus flexible water containers: These collapsible water containers are available in various sizes as water storage units and they roll up into a small, lightweight pack when empty. I generally carry two or three large-sized extras, rolled up and empty, in my daypack, since they weigh next to nothing and don’t take up much space. Then, if you need to carry water from a spring or other water source, you won’t have to improve. (Tip: Since you will probably need a minimum of a gallon of water per day, it makes sense to take enough flexible water containers to haul a gallon!)
Tin or metal cup for boiling or dipping water out of hard-to-reach places. Boiling water is probably the safest, most effective method of water purification available, providing you have a heat source, and a tin cup works great and is incredibly useful.
I usually carry a large (about 24-ounce capacity), metal cup for several tasks. My trusty, large blue enamel cup and a spoon comprised my mess kit for nine days in the Boundary Waters in northern Minnesota. I never needed anything else. I have brewed countless cups of tea or coffee over various heat sources with that piece of gear, and I don’t leave home without one!
How long should you boil the water to purify it? Bring the water to a boil, and that should kill anything that boiling will
kill. Water boils at 212 degrees, then vaporizes. Extended boiling will not make the water hotter or kill more nasties, but it will use up more of your fuel!
Polar Pure or Potable Agua: These are chemical purifiers, and require a certain time period for them to work. I used the Polar Pure system exclusively on a nine-day canoe trip in Minnesota’s Boundary Waters and the system worked really well. Potable Agua comes in capsules and is easy to carry and use. Either Polar Pure of Potable Aqua goes on every outing. (Order Polar Pure here.)
Six-foot piece of aquarium tubing: I got this tip from survival expert Peter Kummerfeldt. Peter recommends including the tubing in case you find water in a crack or crevice and can’t get to it. Just stick the tube in the water and suck it out.
Coffee filter and bandanna: If you can filter the mud and debris out of the water, it will make any filter last that much longer. In especially turbid, muddy water, wrap the coffee filter around the bottom of any filter and attach it with a rubber band. It will help! The bandanna has many uses, including serving as a water filter. A clean one, that you haven’t used to wipe your nose, is preferable!
Large garbage bag: Another multi-use item. Use this to catch rain or dew, or as a reservoir for holding water.
Water filter: Some lightweight method of filtering and purifying water can be incredibly useful. Several companies make sport bottles with filters in them. Use is simple – fill the bottle and suck the water through the filter.
These are the best for hikes along streams, or in areas where you know there is running water available.
If the water is really nasty, two drops of plain chlorinated bleach or iodine can be added to each refill before filtering. This will kill minute pathogens such as viruses, and the disinfectant will then be filtered from the water entirely removing its odor, color and taste.
So, these items work for me. My hydration system is set up with the idea that there is a piece of equipment that should be able to handle any situation. Do your research, select your equipment carefully and include an integrated hydration system in every survival kit.
And make sure to use your common sense to stay hydrated in the first place!
You can only yell for help as long as your voice lasts. Here’s why you need to carry a whistle.
by Leon Pantenburg
To keep your child safe in the city or in the wilderness, the proper training and a whistle, may be the most important tools.
I carry a whistle at all times on my keyring. For an easily-carried auditory signalling device, there is nothing better. A whistle blast is not normal: People tend to look in the direction where the noise came from.
Shouting for help, during an emergency, will last as long as your voice does. (Remember Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet floating on that door after the ship went down in “Titanic“?)
And screaming, whooping and hollering won’t carry as far as a shrill whistle, and may be mistaken for something other than a call for help.
In an urban situation where everyone is talking and making noise, a whistle can cut through the background din to draw attention in your direction. (And here’s an interesting survival scenario: If you end up in a dark movie theater and the lights go out completely, whoever has a flashlight instantly becomes a leader! If you also use a whistle, you will be viewed as the person in charge.)
A good safety practice is to attach a whistle to every child on every outing. (My kids were so used to this. When my daughter was younger and went to the mall, a whistle was clipped to her backpack. If she felt threatened or in danger, she had been trained to blow it, wherever she might be!)
Here are some whistle training rules to teach your child:
- The whistle is not a toy. Never blow the survival whistle for fun, and only use it if you’re lost.
- In an urban or wilderness situation, don’t move around once you think you’re lost.
- Stay in one place and blow a series of three blasts. This is the universal distress signal.
- After you blow the three blasts, wait awhile, and blow another series. Searchers may be trying to signal back, and you won’t hear them if you blow continually.
- If lost in a crowd, stay in one place and blow three blasts on your whistle. Keep doing this regularly until you are found.
* A really good wilderness safety reference book for parents is “I Sit and I Stay.” In the book, author Leah L. Waarvik gives whistle-training and other safety tips for kids if they get lost outdoors.
The biggest endorsement for a knife is to use it constantly. So this one comes highly recommended.
by Leon Pantenburg
Kniveshipfree.com is a Survivalcommonsense.com sponsor. I did not get a free knife for this review, and neither KSF or L.T. Wright Custom Knives had any input in this review.
For nearly 20 years, my Cold Steel SRK did most of my hunting/bushcrafting work. An inexpensive fixed blade, it fit my budget and knife needs for backcountry big game hunting.
But knife people never cease looking for that perfect, do-it-all blade. Along the way, I read books by Horace Kephart, and liked his go-to knife. And that is what first attracted me to the L.T. Wright Genesis. The Genesis is a Kephart-design workhorse.
Kephart was a prolific writer and one of the pioneers of camping/outdoor skills. His outdoor writings were published regularly in national publications such as Field and Stream. Kephart’s first edition of Camping and Woodcraft was published in 1906. In it, Kephart described his EDC knife:
“Its blade and handle are each 4-1/4 inches long, the blade being 1 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick on the back, broad pointed, and continued through the handle as a hasp and riveted to it. It is tempered hard enough to cut green hardwood sticks, but soft enough so that when it strikes a knot or bone it will, if anything, turn rather than nick; then a whetstone soon puts it in order.”
“The handle of this knife is of oval cross-section, long enough to give a good grip for the whole hand, and with no sharp edges to blister one’s hand. The handle is of light but hard wood, 3/4 inch thick at the butt and tapering to 1/2 inch forward, so as to enter the sheath easily and grip it tightly.”
Here are the Genesis specs:
- Overall Length: 9″
- Sharpened Edge: 4.25″
- Steel: 1/8″ A2
- Grind: Flat Ground
- Other Features: Thumb scallops, 90° Spine
I got a Genesis about two years ago and put it to work. It has received constant use, doing everything from wood carving to cleaning fish, to cutting sod and sprinkler irrigation PVC pipe to slicing up an apple pie and shredding tinder.
Here’s my thoughts.
Handle: The Genesis has a generous, oval cross section handle, that a working tool should have.
My 22-ounce framing hammer, hatchet, shovel, machete and axe all have similar handle designs, and that is proven to be the best for hard work. Slim, ergonomically-designed handles are all well and good on some blades. And they look nice.
But a handle that fills your hand won’t give you blisters. It’s also easier to grip, meaning it takes less effort. This reduces fatigue while using.
Handle length is 4.75 inches. This is big enough for those of us with working man hands to use comfortably and safely. If you have to wear gloves while using the knife, you’ll appreciate the length.
The handle features thumb scallops on each side, providing more more comfortable control during close up work. I got my Genesis handle in green, blasted micarta, because the material resembles the weathered wooden pilings on the Mississippi River. The handle is also available in ironwood.
The epoxy isn’t just on the scales, but around every bit of the hardware, according to the KSF catalogue, including the threads of the brass nut, to ensure a completely sealed scale set.
Point: My favorite point depends on the job the knife will be used for. On an all-around knife, a spear point may be the best choice. (Here’s how to choose a knife point.)
The spear point works well for drilling in wood, and the belly makes it useful for gutting big game or cleaning fish.
In fact, the first job I used my Genesis for was gutting a bass that had swallowed a hook and couldn’t be released. The Genesis would not be my first choice for a specialty fishing or hunting knife, but it can certainly do the job.
Grind: The Genesis comes with a scandi or flat grind. I opted for the flat grind, because I like the increased slicing ability. This becomes important if you’re looking for a blade that might end up doing big game processing.
My GNS is in scandi grind, because I anticipated using it mainly for bushcrafting. As a bushcraft knife, it would be hard to improve on the GNS.
Spine: A bushcraft knife, or one that may end up being used for one should have a 90-degree spine. This becomes very useful for shredding tinder and scraping a ferro rod, and saves the sharp edge. I’ve done extensive wood carving, using my thumb on the spine, and didn’t find the edge to be uncomfortable.
Sheath: The Genesis comes with an excellent leather dangler sheath. I have several, use them frequently and really like them. But I decided to convert one of my Bark River sheaths into a dangler, so one-handed use would be easier. I wet-formed the sheath and added a D ring, and now I have a dangler that more closely resembles the original Kephart sheath.
Lanyard hole: Use a lanyard to attach your knife to your belt, button hole or pack.
Drop a knife in deep snow or water, and chances are it’s gone. The Genesis has a lanyard hole, and mine has a piece of fluorescent orange paracord in it.
Steel: My Genesis is in A2. This tool steel is easy to sharpen and maintain the edge of. It is also reasonably priced. Recent additions to the L.T. Wright line include a Genesis in CPM 3V.
A2 will develop a patina after extended use, and that’s fine with me. I like seeing a knife that shows some honest wear and use. After noticing some uneven staining on my Genesis and GNS, I used a vinegar and lemon mixture to force a patina. It worked just fine.
The most recent patina on my Genesis came from when I was moving a few weeks back. The blade was being used for everything from breaking down boxes to cutting rope to whatever else was needed. My wife borrowed it to cut an apple pie for lunch, and the knife was left in the sink while we hauled another load. Several hours later, it had a new pattern.
Blade length: A four-to-five-inch blade is perfect for a working knife. Given my druthers, I’ll take a five-inch blade for just about everything. At 4.25-inches, the blade length is just about right for this design.
Made in the USA: All L.T. Wright knives are made in Ohio. Call the factory, and you can talk to a Midwesterner. The craftspeople make a living wage, pay local, state and federal taxes, and contribute to the local economy. Buy local, buy American!
Do you need a Genesis?
I have a lot of knives, and several in my collection could do the same jobs that a Genesis does. But if you’re starting out and want a user, the Genesis would be a solid choice.
A couple years ago, I was teaching firemaking to a group of ladies participating the “Women in the Outdoors” project in Redmond, Oregon. Several of my knives were available to use for processing tinder, whittling etc. (Part of the seminar was to help ladies choose their hunting/survival knife.) The Genesis proved to be one of the most popular tools, even for women with small hands.
So far, there have been three Genesis’s on Alone. Carleigh Fairchild’s Genesis looks like it is a flat ground A2 blade. One was carried by a Chris Weatherman in Season 1, as well as by last season’s runner-up, Larry Roberts.
And my Genesis gets regular use, despite the plethora and variety of knives I own, test and review.
So do you need a Genesis? Well, I think so.
Check out the rest of our L.T. Wright knife reviews.
The snow has been falling endlessly in Central Oregon, it seems, and it isn’t going anywhere. Should you shovel your roof?
by Leon Pantenburg
Disclaimer: I’m no subject expert, and you need to pay attention to what your local authorities advise on this topic. Serious injury can result from sliding off a roof, and structural damage can result as a result of excess snow accumulation.
In the 18 years I’ve lived in Bend Oregon, I’ve never seen snow like this. Since the first snowfall, around the beginning of December, we’ve had below-freezing temperatures and record accumulations.
In years past, we’d have about four snows annually that would require shoveling. Then it was over. But this year has been unusually bad.
I know I need to shovel my driveway and sidewalks, but what about the accumulation on the roof? Doesn’t the snow weigh a lot, and won’t it cause structural damage to the roof?
Every topic, issue and argument has two sides. Some believe that roof shoveling is not necessary. Others urge people to remove the roof snow to prevent damage later from melting snow and ice dams created by freezing water in gutters.
Here are thoughts from both sides:
Eric Lui, a professor of structural engineering and mechanics at Syracuse University, said a roof built according to state building codes should be able to withstand the weight of any snow that could accumulate on it. In most cases, Lui doesn’t think roof shoveling is necessary (Read the complete story.)
The Bend Fire Department recommends that a qualified professional remove the extra loading, according to a Jan. 10, 2017 KTVZ.com post. (Read the whole story.)
The snow needs to go, according to Bend Fire because:
· Deep snow on a roof can bury a gas appliance flue, causing the exhaust to enter the home. This condition can introduce carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless poisonous gas in the building.
· Excess snow on the roof can weaken and possibly collapse a structure, particularly an older building with a shallow-pitched roof.
· Snow melting on a roof can refreeze into ice dams, which force subsequent snow melt to leak into the structure.
· Melting snow can freeze into icicles, which can cause serious injury if they fall on people.
Here’s some thoughts:
Is it feasible for you to shovel you roof? For me, personally, it isn’t. I have two prosthetic knees and climbing ladders is a thing of the past. I’m not getting up on a slippery roof to shovel snow!
Do you have the right equipment? There are roof rakes, made specially for removing accumulations, and other specialized tools that can do the job safely and effectively. But this assumes you can get to the area safely. You may have to take a standard snow shovel and have at it.
This segues into:
Is your house roof shovel-able? By this, we mean, can someone safely get to the area to be shoveled? If you have a two-story house, you’ll need a long ladder to even get to the work area. Most of us don’t have such ladders, and this is one instance where improvisation is a bad idea.
There are enough dangers associated with winter storms. The experts agree: Don’t put yourself in danger shoveling a roof if you don’t have the right tools and skills.
Should you remove the snow on your roof? You decide, based on local research.
And don’t do something stupid!
The snowmobilers were stuck in the waist-deep snow and lost in a blizzard. They tried to walk out. By morning, one was dead, and the other had severe frostbite.
by Leon Pantenburg
The happened in 2007, about 15 miles from my home. It’s easy, in hindsight, to point out mistakes people have made, and we can never know all variables. But in that case, the ability to make a shelter may have saved a life.
One really important backcountry deep snow survival skill is knowing how to make a shelter. A snow cave can save your life, but if you don’t have the time, tools and know-how to build one, you’re wasting your time.
Don’t depend on a snow cave for your emergency shelter. You are much better off packing a sleeping bag and tent with your survival gear.
Building a snow cave sounds simple, and according to some survival manuals, easy to do. Reality is a lot different.
There is a lot to know about these shelters. Probably the best place to start is by reading “Snow Caves For Fun and Survival” by Ernest Wilkinson. This book gives a practical approach to the subject, and I highly recommend it. Wilkinson’s snow cave construction technique is discussed here.
But there are some considerations about snow caves to think about before you desperately need to build one! You can’t just dig sideways into a snow drift.
- You will have to remove between two and three cubic feet of snow.
- The snow will packed and not easy to remove.
- You will need proper tools to make the job easier.
- The idea is to avoid getting wet and cold while working on the shelter.
Here are some tools to take along:
Block cutter: Boy Scout Troop 18 here in Bend, OR, has several snow block cutters, and these work really well for building igloos and caves. They look like cutting boards, being about 12-inches by 18-inches. A thick handle on top allows shoving them down and pulling them out of the snow after cutting a block.
Machete or snow saw: Nice to have. You can miter and trim blocks more easily to make them fit in a snow shelter.
Shovel: Necessary. Always take some sort of shovel along when cross-country skiing, snowshoeing or snowmobiling. If your machine gets stuck, you might be able to dig it out. You will also need the shovel to help clear out loose snow from inside the shelter, and to dig the cold well and fashion the sleeping benches.
Sled: I like to take along a small plastic toboggan, like kids use on small hills. I use it to carry my gear, and it works superbly for moving snow blocks. One person can use the block cutter to excavate sideways into the snow bank, placing the blocks on the toboggan. Another worker can slide the blocks outside, which eliminates handling and reduces the chances of getting wet.
Insulite or closed cell foam pad: This item should go along on every snow outing. It provides a place to sit or lay upon without losing heat to the ground. It is also great for kneeling upon when excavating the interior of the snow cave.
Long burning candle: It’s surprising how much heat can be generated inside a snow shelter with one candle. But the best use is for lighting. It gets dark early in the winter, and once you get the cave built, some light will be really appreciated.
Deck of cards: Strictly optional, but you may end up spending a very long, dark night in the shelter. Playing a familiar game will go a long way toward dispelling fear and panic.
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I have helped build snow caves as emergency shelters in the past, and didn’t think they were particularly effective. But that was before I read “Snow Caves For Fun and Survival” and tried out the book’s techniques.
by Leon Pantenburg
A group of Boy Scouts and volunteers were on our annual winter survival skills training day in the foothills of the Cascades in Central Oregon. When it comes to snow caves, the conventional wisdom from most survival manuals, is that the builder tunnels sideways and up into a snow bank, shoveling the snow out through the entrance hole.
Naturally skeptical (because of my newspaper training) I asked my 17-year-old son, Dan, to construct one such shelter by himself, using a small shovel and trowel. More than two hours later, his cave was finished, but Dan was wet, tired and cold. Despite working hard, his cave was not a particularly effective survival shelter. Dan would have had a rough night ahead of him if he had to stay in that cave.
Based on that and other experiences, my opinion of snow caves as emergency shelters was lukewarm at best. Then a friend recommended “Snow Caves For Fun and Survival” by Ernest Wilkinson, and I’ve changed my mind. (Read my story on building a snow cave using Wilkinson’s techniques.)
Most people with some basic tools, and using the techniques Wilkinson writes about, could successfully make a snow cave survival shelter.
Author Wilkinson is a former Search and Rescue member, and an experienced Colorado mountain guide, specializing in snowshoe treks and winter camping, according to the book liner notes. This backcountry experience lead Wilkinson to develop his own shelter-making techniques that save time and energy and increase comfort and safety.
Wilkinson’s snow cave technique is simple: cut out blocks from the front of the drift to the width of the cave. Excavate. Dig a cold well, and carve out benches on the sides for sleeping. When all this work is done, use the removed snow blocks to create a front wall.
There is plenty of room for two people to work simultaneously, and you don’t need to get wet during construction. Best of all, the cave is quick to make, which places it in the effective survival shelter category.
This simple technique is just one of the practical winter camping/survival tips you’ll get from reading “Snow Caves.” Igloo and lean-to construction are also discussed, as well as avalanche danger and how to avoid it.
While the book’s main focus is shelters, there is a wealth of information on all aspects of winter camping in deep snow. Other sections deal with the proper clothing to wear, what kind of insulation a winter sleeping bag should have; firestarting tips; and equipment to take along for added comfort.
If you recreate in areas that have deep snow, or are looking for a winter camping reference book, “Snow Caves” would be a top choice. If you don’t know anything about deep snow survival techniques, reading this book would be a great place to start. Then, check out your local community college, or parks and recreation district, and see if someone offers classes in winter survival.
Ready, study, and then, practice what you’ve learned.
Check out “Snow Caves For Fun and Survival” here.
Kniveshipfree is a sponsor of Survivalcommonsense.com, but I don’t get free knives from the company, nor do they have any input in any knife reviews.
by Leon Pantenburg
I’m always looking for a good hunting knife. So when the Zoe Crist Santa Fe became available last year, I got one and tried it.
There are many things I like about the knife, but the handle just wasn’t comfortable for my large hands. The handle rubbed between my index and second fingers, and for extended use, it wasn’t going to work.
In such cases, I pass the knife on to an experienced outdoorsperson and ask them to wring it out. (Check out Bob Patterson’s review of the Bark River Trakker Companion.)
Several months ago, the Santa Fe went to my friend Phil Brummett, a fellow Boy Scout volunteer, former scoutmaster and skilled wilderness survival guy.
Phil is also a Central Oregon fishing guide, and is on the water a couple hundred days a year. Any knife that can meet his standards has to be really good. And Phil’s hands are smaller than mine.
Here are the Santa Fe specs:
- Overall Length: 9.5 Inches
- Blade Length: 5 Inches
- Steel: 1095 Carbon Steel @ 58-60rc
- Blade Thickness: .174 Inch
- Weight: 8.125 Ounces
- Made in the United States of America
Here’s the good stuff:
Overall length is about right for a hunting knife. My favorite blade length in a hunting knife is about five inches. A four-inch length is fine, and six is very usable, but five inches just seems to work out best for Phil and me. (My go-to Ambush Tundra has a 4.5-inch blade.)
Steel: 1095 is a good, durable choice, and it won’t break the bank like some of the super steels. Phil commented the Santa Fe’s edge-holding ability is great, and re-sharpening is easy.
A concern for some buyers is rust. Carbon steel can develop rust overnight if the humidity is high, the blade is put away wet, and the knife is ignored.
In Phil’s case, the knife is used in wet circumstances more often than not. Most of the time, that includes blood and fish slime. But Phil wipes the blade off after using it, and had no issue with rust.
Patina is another matter. Any carbon steel blade, over time, will develop some patina, or discoloration. Phil’s knife shows some, probably because it has cleaned a lot of fish and been used for a lot of bushcrafting. Both of us like the appearance – it shows honest use and wear. And it looks cool. Phil wouldn’t let me polish the patina off.
Spine: The spine is ground at a 90-degree angle, like an ice skate for the half of the blade next to the handle. It tapers down to a sharp point with the swedge.
This spine grind is useful for processing tinder or scraping a ferrocerrium to create firemaking sparks. The spine is one of those parts of a knife that is generally forgotten, but learn how to use it and it can be useful.
Grind: The Santa Fe comes with a full height convex grind, which is my personal favorite. I’ve had a couple of Tundras re-ground into full height convex, because that grind works so well for me.
Belly: The belly is from the tip, and includes the curve that blends into the straight edge. Though not designed to be a skinner, the Santa Fe would work fine. Phil commented that the blade design works well for cleaning steelhead salmon and other large fish.
Point: The clip point with swedge is outstanding. It combines two of my favorite designs. For field dressing big game, I like the clip point for that initial cut to open up the abdomen, without nicking the entrails. The swedge makes the under-the-tail work of field dressing a whitetail easy.
Handle: Like I mentioned, the handle design isn’t the best for me. It could probably be reworked with some sandpaper so the finger grooves were more comfortable. That also means the Santa Fe might be perfect for you if your hands are smaller!
You can get your choice of handle materials. For a user, I generally opt for micarta, since it is apparently bullet proof. But I also love the natural look of wood, and have a definite weakness for desert ironwood and curly maple. Get what you want.
Sheath: The knife comes with a sturdy leather dangler sheath that secures the knife well. Both Phil and I like this setup – you can wear the knife on your belt, under a coat, very comfortably. You can also get in a car and fasten your seatbelt with it on. This becomes really nice when you’re getting in and out of a truck or drift boat all day.
So do you need a Santa Fe?
If you’re looking for a good hunting knife that can handle many hunting/survival tasks, the Santa Fe could be your best choice. The knife retails for $187.47. This is a good price for a solid piece of cutlery that will last for many years.
Any reservations I have about the knife are strictly personal, based on ticky, nit-picky opinions I developed from a life-long, obsessive-compulsive need to find that one perfect knife for everything.
But Phil needs a Santa Fe. I offered to swap him out another knife (and I have A LOT of high quality blades with different designs) for the Santa Fe if it didn’t do everything he wanted his knife to do.
Phil opted to hang on to his Santa Fe. I think he made an excellent choice!
Just about every survival manual shows how to build a snow cave. But the reality is that most people don’t have the skill, tools or time to effectively use this technique. This book, “Snow Caves For Fun and Survival,” by Ernest Wilkinson, may help.
by Leon Pantenburg
One of my favorite Boy Scout outings is Winter Skills Day, when we go out in the gorgeous Oregon backcountry to practice building emergency and survival shelters in deep snow. One of the more interesting lessons has come from building igloos and snow caves.
Igloos, IMO, require skill, a lot of time, building technique and the correct snow conditions. Most people in a survival situation will have none of these things. This rules out igloos as a practical survival shelter for the average person.
Same thing with snow caves – we see a drawing in the book, and there is little discussion about the realities of burrowing into a snow drift to make a shelter. The general idea, according to most authors, is to dig sideways into a drift, and then up. A minimum of two to three cubic yards of snow must be dug out and removed out the small entrance hole.
Several problems crop up immediately when using this model:
- The small entrance severely limits the digger’s ability to remove snow.
- Only one person can effectively work at a time.
- The cramped quarters limit what tools can be used, and the efficient use of them.
- The snow in a drift is usually hard packed and difficult to remove.
- You will probably get really wet wallowing around in the hole while attempting to shovel out the loose snow.
To further test conventional snow cave techniques, I asked my 17-year-old son, Dan, to make a snow cave by himself on an outing. A skilled outdoorsman, Dan has helped build many igloos and emergency shelters in deep snow, and knows exactly what to do. But even with the proper tools, and youthful enthusiasm and endurance, it still took over two hours to make a single-sized snow cave.
When the cave was completed, Dan was tired, wet and cold. Spending the night in that shelter, in his condition, would have been a rough experience.
“Snow Caves” can help you learn how to build and use these shelters. Author Wilkinson is a former Search and Rescue member, and an experienced Colorado mountain guide, specializing in snowshoe treks and winter camping. (This post started out as a book review, but I wanted to test some of his techniques first!) According to the book liner notes, this backcountry experience lead Wilkinson to develop his own shelter-making techniques that save time and energy and increase comfort and safety.
Wilkinson’s technique is simple: cut out blocks from the front of the drift to the width of the cave. Excavate. Then, use the removed snow blocks to create a front wall.
I tried this technique at the Boy Scouts annual Winter Skills Day. Taking only some minimal tools, (a piece of Plexiglas, machete and small shovel) I started digging into the wall of snow next to the parking lot. Using the Plexiglas, I quickly outlined the width and height of the cave.
Within 15 minutes I was about three feet into the bank. (Another person working would have speeded things up – I could handed the snow blocks out more easily.)
Once the desired depth and width was achieved, it would have been simple to dig out a trench in the middle for a cold well, thereby creating two benches for sleeping.
But within half an hour, working alone, the cave was big enough for two people to take shelter from a storm. Blocking in the front was quick and easy. Maybe most importantly, I didn’t get wet or expend a tremendous amount of time and energy in the process.
Covering the front with a tarp was also an option. With my space blanket and tarp from my Ten Essentials kit, and a candle to heat the interior, it would have been possible to survive a night out in the deep snow. It could even be reasonably comfortable!
Like any survival technique, this should be tried and practiced before you consider a snow cave a viable survival shelter for you.
Check out “Snow Caves For Fun and Survival” here.
Hanging on to your tools may be critical. Here’s how to rig small items so they don’t get lost.
by Leon Pantenburg
I learned a valuable lesson the hard way a few years back when my wife and I dumped a canoe at the top of a rapids. (Read the story)
Basically, it amount to this: You keep the stuff that is tied down or secured. You lose the stuff that isn’t.
But some small items, such as butane lighters, Chapstick or some survival knives, don’t have a way to attach a lanyard or safety snap. (Here’s how to make a lanyard.)
Here’s an easy way to fix that.
Take an aluminum poptop and attach it to the small item with a piece of bright tape. Then, whenever you use that piece of gear, clip or attach it to a lanyard. Attach the lanyard to your belt, button hole or zipper fob.
Get into this habit and you’ll never drop or lose that critical piece of gear. This is particularly important in areas with a lot of snow, like where I live in Central Oregon.
I frequently am out in areas with several feet of accumulation, and dropping a butane lighter in these areas of deep snow virtually guarantees permanent loss. Even if you can find the lighter again, chances are the cold will disable it for several minutes.
And what about that all-important knife? Drop one in deep snow, and it’s almost guaranteed you won’t see it again. Putting a lanyard on a survival knife is one of the smarter things you can do for winter survival in deep snow.
Either of these situations is a problem if you desperately need to build a warming fire and your hands are numb!
Avoid potential emergencies caused by losing gear by thinking ahead!
Suppose that significant other isn’t into preparedness. What is the first thing to do to get them thinking about the possibility about the “unthinkable” happening?
Hand them a copy of this book.
by Leon Pantenburg
Amanda Ripley’s “The Unthinkable” is not about disaster recovery: It’s about what happens in the midst of one – before emergency personnel arrive and structure is imposed on the loss. It’s about the human reaction to disaster and how you should act if you want to survive.
Survival Book Review: The Unthinkable: Who Survives When Disaster Strikes and Why By Amanda Ripley
This is a fact: Nine of 10 Americans live in places at significant risk of earthquake, tornado, hurricanes, terrorism, or other disasters. Tomorrow you may have to make significant decisions to save yourself and/or your family. Or maybe you could have to make those decisions before you finish reading this!
It may be in an urban or wilderness survival situation. Or you may have run to the grocery store for a gallon of milk when the earthquake or tornado hits.
Regardless of where or when the incident occurs, you will have to take decisive actions to survive.
But the overwhelming response, of the great majority of people, to that concept is something along the lines of:…I, personally, will not be affected by any of those emergencies…. And even if a disaster happens, it somehow won’t threaten or engulf me or my family… But if it does, there’s nothing I can do anyway, so there is no need to prepare…
This is denial. If that continues to be part of your mindset, then you have just gotten into the first phase of a deadly, downward behavior progression that could cost your life.
The Unthinkable: Who Survives When Disaster Strikes and Why” Amanda Ripley, an investigative journalist, writes about the human psychological reaction to disasters. Ripley covered some of the most devastating disasters of our time, and retraces how people reacted. She interviews leading brain scientists, trauma psychologists and other disaster experts. She comes up with the stunning inadequacies of many of our evolutionary responses.
Ripley’s book is not about disaster recovery: It’s about what happens in the midst of one – before emergency personnel arrive and structure is imposed on the loss.
Ripley describes a “survival arc” everyone must travel to get from danger to safety. The survival arc’s three chronological phases of denial, deliberation and the decisive moment make up the structure of the book.
And while the path to survival may resemble a roller coaster rather than an arc, Ripley writes, it’s rare that anyone gets through a disaster without passing through these main stages at least once.
If you’ve ever thought about a disaster and possible reactions to it, then you’re on the right track. Ripley starts the survival arc process with the thought “I wonder what I would do if…”
Here’s the survival arc progression, according to Ripley, of a typical reaction to a disaster situation:
Denial: This can’t be happening. This isn’t happening to me. It’s all a bad dream. I’m imagining this. In a moment everything will be all right.
Denial is the most insidious fear response of all.“The more I learned, the more denial seemed to matter all the time, even long before the disaster, on days that passed without incident,” Ripley writes. Denial can manifest itself in delay. Or it can cause people to freeze or become immobile in disbelief. Many, if not most, people shut down in a crisis, quite the opposite of panic. Denial can paralyze you.
Deliberation: We know something is terribly wrong, but don’t know what to do about it. How do you decide?
The first thing is the realization that nothing is normal. We all think and perceive things differently. We become, Ripley claims, superheros with learning disabilities. At this point, you need to have some training, or prior “What If?” planning to fall back on. The overwhelming tendency will be for your mind to go blank, and you won’t have clue on what to do next. Let’s hope you learned the STOP mindset exercise. (See story link below).
Your brain may be like the computer that has lost all its connections. Remember STOP as one of those vital links. Embed the acronym, and how to use it, into your psyche. To get through the deliberation phase and on to the decisive moment, you will have had to rely on your survival mindset and prior training.
The Decisive Moment: You’ve accepted that you are in danger, deliberated the options and
now it is time to make a plan to do something. If you’re in a group, about 75 to 80 percent of the crowd will do nothing, according to John Leach in “Survival Psychology.” Another 10 to 15 percent will do the wrong thing, and only about 10 percent will make the right decisions. And these people who react appropriately will do so because of previous training.
Anybody with a “Be Prepared” mentality hopefully moves quickly through the initial denial phase. We’ll also hope that you have read and studied survival techniques so you will be able to deliberate effectively and move on to the decisive moment phase. But even if you think you’re prepared mentally for surviving a disaster, “Unthinkable” is a book you need to read.
The book is not about stockpiling food, tools, weapons or prepping. You must understand what goes on in your head during a disaster before you can use your tools. You’ll need information and techniques to respond correctly. Some of that information can come from “The Unthinkable.”
The book’s information is a powerful survival tool. It should be in your prepper or survival library.
“This awful catastrophe is not the end but the beginning. History does not end so. It is the way its chapters open.” St. Augustine.
Click here to listen to earthquake expert geologist James Roddey on SurvivalCommonSense.com Radio
Pete Winkler’s recent win on the History Channel’s “Forged in Fire” just proved what some of us already knew: Winkler, owner of Cross Knives, produces some excellent blades.
by Leon Pantenburg
Knivesshipfree is a Survivalcommonsense sponsor. I didn’t receive any free knives, and make no promises on any equipment reviews other than that I will be fair. Many of the knives I review are for sale at a reduced price.
I was a visionary (I claim) when it came to Cross Knives. Long before “Forged in Fire” show featured Pete Winkler, I thought his knives looked really good. I ordered a Little Gent because it was such a pretty knife, and specs showed it was made of top quality components.
When I opened the box, the workmanship proved to be impeccable. But the handle proved to be too short for my large hands, so I returned it. (Knives Ship Free allows return of products within 30 days of purchase, no questions asked.)
I then ordered a Lil Whitetail Hunter and ran it through its paces. (Check out the review.)
After various whittling, carving, bushcrafting, etc, the finale came when I went deer hunting in October. I didn’t kill anything but time, but a youngster I was hunting with got his first buck.
I used the Whitetail on the mule deer very effectively, using it to gut the buck, split the ribcage and for some of the skinning. The knife performed flawlessly. Most people would have been happy to let it go at that.
But the Whitetail would be a better hunting knife, IMHO, if it had a little longer blade than the four-inch version that comes with it.
Nit-picky, ticky and probably obsessive-compulsive. I know. But that’s how I am when it comes to hunting gear that might be needed for survival tasks. My favorite blade length for a hunting knife is about five inches, and anything less leads to a nagging concern that I might be happier with a different knife…
So when the All Around Hunter came out, I ordered one immediately.
It arrived, in stabilized mesquite. When I opened the box, it was love at first sight.
Here are the specs:
- Model Name: All Around Hunter
- Handle Material:
- Overall Length: 9.26 (235mm)
- Blade Length: 4.53 (115mm)
- Blade Thickness: 0.15 (3.59mm)
- Weight: 7.9oz.
- Blade Steel: A2 Tool Steel
- Made in USA
The good stuff:
Appearance: Don’t buy a knife because it’s pretty. Buy it because it will work well for you. The Hunter has the best of both worlds. The stabilized mesquite handle with the custom pins is drop-dead gorgeous. It’s the kind of knife you’ll be proud to carry. In fact, some people might decide it’s too pretty to use hard, and decide to keep it at home in the safe. Not me. And don’t you be one of those people.
Handle: At 4.73 inches, the handle fits my large hand very well. It is well designed, and the stabilized wood proves to be almost tacky when it gets covered with blood or other slippery fluids. I could use the similar-sized Whitetail handle with complete safety, even though I had to reach inside the buck’s abdominal cavity, through the blood, to cut the esophagus during field dressing.
Steel: A2 and CPM 3V are my favorite knife steels, and frankly, I can’t tell much difference in edge-holding ability. CPM 3V is less likely to stain, but that doesn’t bother me one way or the other. A2 appears to be a little easier to re-sharpen in the field, but again, neither steel will probably need it.
All things considered, I generally give the nod to A2, just because of the lower initial cost.
Point: A drop point with a thin tip is a superior point configuration for a hunting knife. It allows the initial piercing of the carcass to get the field dressing started, and the lower point keeps it from hitting the entrails when making the cut that opens up the abdominal cavity. For skinning around the shoulders and neck, this configuration is hard to beat.
Blade length: A four-to-five inch blade is about perfect for my hunting needs. Like anything, this is subject to individual preferences. (Does blade size matter?)
This 4.53-inch blade will do just fine.
Spine: I like a 90-degree spine. That allows you to scrape a ferrocerium rod to make firemaking sparks or to shred tinder. Save the sharp edge for other tasks.
Sheath: The knife comes with a sturdy leather sheath that is also handmade. Like the knife, it is good-looking.
Based on my experience with the Lil Whitetail, I have nothing but high expectations for the All Around Hunter.
My big game season was a bust this fall. I didn’t draw an elk tag, and because of various tasks associated with selling my house, I only got to hunt for deer on opening day. My usual hunting party had to get along without me this year.
But Oregon has a spring bear hunt, and I have a tag. There is also the potential for turkey hunting. I’ll be using the All Around Hunter. and I’ll let you know how the knife ends up working out.
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There is no substitute for a good compass, and the ability to use it. Since getting lost is generally the reason for most wilderness emergencies, stay found to stay out of trouble!
In this article, navigation expert Blake Miller tells you how to check out and make sure your magnetic compass is safe and ready to go.
by Blake Miller
Recently, I was watching a rifle expert on one of the many outdoor cable shows. This gent is a noted ballistics expert, writer and occasional backcountry guide. During a segment of the interview he was demonstrating what was in his day pack. It kept my interest, had the ten essentials, and all was going just fine until he brought out his compass.
It looked like a wonderful antique, might have come across the Great Plains and Rockies with Lewis and Clark –but in terms of reliability- it was questionable. The sad part is, he spent absolutely no time discussing key factors of having a reliable compass. He touched his compass and quickly put it down.
And touching a compass is about all that most people do too. Hunters preparing to go afield will spend hours with their rifle at the range evaluating their zero, adjusting optics, and measuring the initial velocity of that hot new round. Navigation takes time to get dialed in, too.
Navigation is not “rocket science” but it takes practice. It is a perishable skill. The analogy that I use in my wilderness navigation classes is that you can hop on a bike after not riding one for ten years and head on down the road. But trying to triangulate after ten months can be a chore.
For starters, you need a decent compass. Leave the $5.00 compass on the shelf at the store. (For more information on buying a compass check out my article on selecting a compass.)
Here are a few recommendations for a compass tune up:
- Store your compass in a safe spot. Keep the compass off the dash of the rig, away from flashlights and the GPS. Let’s not take a chance that an electrically induced magnetic field will degrade your compass.
- Compare your compass with another to verify that the red needle is pointing to magnetic north. Take it a step further and find a road in town that is aligned north/south. Most likely it will be aligned in degrees true; as in true north. Again, verify that the compass is pointing correctly. Do this for every compass you own.
- Is the compass leaking? Is there an air bubble floating in the compass housing? I “deep six” (toss) those units.
- Brush up on your compass navigation skills. June Fleming’s book “Staying Found” is a excellent read. Visit www.landnavigation.org. Practice shooting a bearing, triangulating your position and orienting your map and compass to your surroundings.
- Review the components of a Topographic map. Start with the USGS’ site here.
- Insure you have the compass adjusted to the correct declination. Practice with your children. Give them a good education with a map and compass before you give them a GPS.
Don’t depend on your friends being the navigation experts. Make it a goal to exceed their skills. You might find that your initial impression was mistaken. Instead of a “sense of direction” develop the skill of navigation.
Practice with a compass is essential to safe wilderness travel. To quote Fleming, “The key to knowing where you are, is constant awareness.”
Blake Miller has made a career out of staying found and knowing where he is at all times. His formal navigation training began when he joined the U.S. Navy in 1973. He served as an officer aboard several Navy ships over his
20-year career; many of those tours included the duty of Navigator. Blake began working with satellite navigation systems at sea in 1976, culminating with the then-new satellite positioning systems aboard the Battleship WISCONSIN in early 1990.
In 1998, Blake started Outdoor Quest, a business dedicated to backcountry navigation and wilderness survival. Blake has taught classes to wild land firefighters, state agency staffs, Search and Rescue team members, hunters, hikers, skiers, fishermen and equestrians. He regularly teaches classes through the Community Education programs at Central Oregon (Bend) and Chemeketa (Salem, OR) Community Colleges.
As a volunteer, Blake teaches navigation and survival classes to students in the local school districts, and conservation groups. He is a member of a Search and Rescue team.
If you have any questions about land navigation or wilderness survival, you can contact Blake through SurvivalCommonSense.email@example.com, or you can go to his website.
To hear the Blake Miller interview about choosing a magnetic compass and GPS on SurvivalCommonSense.com Radio, click here.
Every survival/preparedness-type has opinions about the best survival/hunting/bushcraft/etc knife. But what about the knife you carry every day and use for everything?
by Leon Pantenburg
I belong to the “big knife, small knife” school of thought when it comes to packing cutlery. I want a four-to-six inch blade for a hunting knife, a seven-to-nine inch filleting knife for fish and a 12-to-18-inch machete or parang for chopping. (Actually, a better chopping tool is a hatchet or small axe!)
But I also take along a smaller, handier knife to do a lot of everyday tasks. This small knife will be carried most often and subsequently, get more use. So it needs to be chosen with care.
Don’t underestimate the smaller knives.
Last month, I was driving home from a Boy Scout campout, when a car ahead of me hit a deer. After checking on the occupants of the car (they were shaken, but unhurt) the driver and I followed the injured buck.
It had two broken legs, internal injuries and was in agonizing pain. We dialed 911, and found the state police would be at least half an hour getting there. So we put the deer down with the only tool available – my Kellem Hawk. The three-inch blade worked quickly and efficiently to end the animal’s suffering.
In another instance, I volunteered to help cook at the Azure Standard company picnic. We found there were 120 pounds of chicken quarters to be cut up. I had the only practical knife available, my L.T. Wright Next Gen.
The Next Gen opened up a pallet of boxes, and when the blade was cleaned, cut up 80 pounds of chicken. (We grilled 40 pounds of quarters for the big eaters.) Everyone who used the Next Gen loved it. The blade was still sharp at the end of all that work.
Here’s my preferencs in an EDC knife: I have certain standards. The blade should be between one to three inches long, with a user point. My (glove-size) large hands require a minimum four-inch handle and I prefer a bulky diameter. The material should be safe to use, even when wet. And durable.
For users, I prefer micarta because it seems to get tackier and “grippier” when wet. But I have a real weakness for beautiful wood, and own and use many knives with curly maple and desert ironwood handles.
We further break down the category into folder and rigid blade. (Check out my prejudices.)
Here are some of my current favorite rigid EDCs:
Old Hickory three-inch paring knife: My sister, Karla Pantenburg Moore, is a one of the most knowledgeable homesteader-types I know. Her go-to knife for many homestead tasks is a three-inch Ontario Old Hickory paring knife. The knives are cheap, reliable and do the job.
L.T. Wright Patriot: This is a great choice for people with small-to-medium hands. I don’t like a three-finger grip on a user knife, and that was the best I could do with the Patriot. But the cute little knife can be a real workhorse in the right hands, and any L.T. Wright knife is bulletproof. (Check out these video reviews)
L.T. Wright Next Gen: This is one of my favorite small knives. It has a three-inch blade, and a 4-1/2 inch handle. For me, it is just about perfect.
Fallkniven WM1: Fallkniven has a sterling reputation for quality cutlery, and the WM1 Sporting Knife upholds that tradition. A smallish fixed-blade knife, the WM1 is compact enough to take everywhere, but large enough handle many big knife tasks.
I carved a spoon with the WM-1 and found it to be a very good carver with its 2.75-inch, convex grind. It would also work for a neck knife.
Kellam Hawk: The Hawk™ features a beautiful dyed curly birch handle with a 3″ razor-sharp carbon steel blade. This knife has a full-tang construction with a brass bolster. These knives are hand made in Finland. The knife comes with a swinger-style dark brown leather sheath. As mentioned, this knife can handle just about anything.
Great Eastern Slipjoint: I got this because I love classic, traditionally designed cutlery. The knife is big enough, with its four-inch handle, and 3-1/8-inch blades to be used comfortably for a lot of tasks. If need be, it could do a fine job of field dressing and skinning a deer.
Swiss Army Classic: My overall, most-carried knife ever is the tiny Classic. It rides on my keychain, and is used multiple times every day for everything imaginable.
I met a through hiker on the Pacific Crest Trail in Oregon a few years back, and a Classic was her choice for a backpacking knife. It was the only knife she had carried since leaving the Mexican border several months earlier.
Swiss Army Tinker: I carry a Tinker on my belt everyday, even when I’m at work at my college office. The Tinker goes for under $20, and has just about everything I need in a pocket knife. Frequently, you can find a combo deal on Amazon.com pairing the Classic and the Tinker.
Most Swiss Army knives have toothpicks and tweezers in the handle, and these are some of the most useful tools imaginable.
Puma Stockman Birdhunter: This three-bladed knife is one of the best small game knives ever. The different styles of blades are ideal for gutting and skinning upland game or birds, and the handle is comfortable for wood carving.
Opinel: This French import is inexpensive and has a unique, revolving ring for securely locking the blade in place. Opinels come in all sizes. The smallest Opinel, No. 2, has a 3.5-cm blade and the largest knife, No. 12, a 12-cm blade.
I find the carbon steel blades hold an edge very well, and if the blade it wiped off after use there shouldn’t be any problems with rust.
These knives are in their own categories, and bear mention because this is my website and I like them.
Bark River Gunny: The 3-3/4-inch blade disqualifies this knife from consideration, but the Gunny remains one of my most-used knives.
Mora 840 Companion: The blade is just under four inches, so that puts it in the mid-size group. But the cost and quality make it a knife that everyone can afford to use.
Leatherman WAVE: This multi-tool has all sorts of really cool gadgets, including a quality blade. The blade is about three inches long, and it can serve as a small game knife.
I’ve heard of people field dressing deer with the WAVE, but that is nothing I intend to try. The collection of tools make this one of the handiest EDCs available.
So that’s my EDC knife list as of right now. My choices are probably different from yours, and my list tends to change and evolve as I check out new products.
Probably the only thing to remember about any EDC knife is that it’s useless if it is left at home, or in the vehicle at the trailhead. The only valuable EDC/survival/bushcraft/etc knife is the one you have with you!
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If you live in the areas affected by the recent massive winter storm, let’s hope you are prepared for power outages. Here are some tips to keep you from sitting in the dark.
by Leon Pantenburg
This brings an important topic to the forefront : What happens when high winds, heavy snowfall and freezing temperatures combine to knock out the electricity in your home?
Emergency preparedness means you should have backup systems or plans for heat, lighting and water. If you’re lucky, the power won’t be off long, but batteries are gone after a few days, unless you have a way to recharge them. A generator will only work until it runs out of fuel.
Let’s hope you’ve already insulated your water pipes to keep them from freezing. Click on insulate pipes to learn what to do.
One of the more important aspects of urban survival during winter storms is lighting. Without a lighting plan, you could end up in the dark from when the sun sets at around 5:30 p.m. until dawn. The right lighting supplies can make this situation more bearable.
This scenario is familiar to Tom Dumalt, manager of Globe Lighting in Bend, OR.
Dumalt lived in the Milwaukee, OR., area from 1978 through 1981, he said, when days-long power outages were common. While various battery-operated light sources work well, Dumalt also recommends stocking up with plenty of candles and matches because emergency power only lasts so long.
For the long term, candles may be one of the best choices, he said, because they’re cheap, easily available
and easy to use safely.
And if you’re a scrounger/recycler/prepper, candles are something that is always on the “To-Buy” list. And they have a place in any urban survival kit.
When buying candles for a potential power outage, all you’re really
concerned about is quantity. The aesthetics and mood of a romantic candle-lit dinner will soon wear off, and everyone will soon be more concerned about seeing what is for dinner.
Great places to find really cheap candles are garage and rummage sales and thrift stores. It doesn’t matter if the candles are outdated Christmas or novelty candles, odds-and-ends from a dinner party, or clunky art projects – all they have to do is provide light. Buy all you can find and stockpile them.
Another good lighting choice is the old-fashioned kerosene lamps our grandparents used. My urban survival kit includes several such lanterns and lamps, plus a supply of kerosene to fuel them. A standard Deitz lantern, according to the manufacturer, will burn up to eight hours on one tankfull of fuel. 21st Century Inc 210-32060 Hurricane Lantern No. 30
Other garage sale treasures can include old Coleman gas lanterns. These run on Coleman camp fuel or (in some cases) unleaded gasoline, and they can be dirt cheap. I was given several once after an estate sale, when nobody would buy them. Repairing them was not difficult, and if I can fix one, so can you.
Generally, the reason gas lanterns don’t work is because of a worn-out pump or from being clogged from dirty fuel. Sometimes a good cleaning is all they need. Repair parts are dirt cheap too, so there is no reason you can’t have several. Coleman Two-Mantle Dual Fuel Lantern with Hard Case
Before you lay in a stock of lighting sources that require combustion, consider how safe they are, and if they will work for your intended purpose.
Probably the first consideration is carbon monoxide. This odorless gas is the leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths in America, according to the Journal of the American Medical Association. Carbon monoxide results from the incomplete combustion of fuels such as wood, kerosene, gasoline, charcoal, propane, natural gas and oil.
All of these light sources must be used in a well-ventilated area only, Marshall said. Remember, if the electricity is off, so is the fan motor in your furnace, and there may not be a way to circulate air.
Both the American Red Cross and the Bend Fire Department recommend an emergency illumination source that is battery-powered.
In any emergency lighting situation, you should be prepared with battery-operated lamps or flashlights, Marshall said. Be very careful with candles or any open flame.
An important part of any emergency preparations is The Plan. Come up with a plausible lighting scenario for your area, then decide how you will handle it.
Think about your lighting needs when there is no electricity, Dumalt advises. When the sun comes up, will you need a light source to work? If so, can you move the work area to take advantage of sunlight?
Look at window placement as it relates to lighting, he added. Would the best idea be to shut down other areas of the house, and move into a central area that is more easily lighted and heated?
Another consideration is what the lighting needs are when the sun goes down. Decide what area you’ll be in when it becomes dark, Dumalt said, then think about the most effective way to light it for different activities. A single candle might be enough to light one area for certain activities, while more light might be needed later for cooking, bathing or washing clothes.
In some cases, such as two people reading together, a single candle will be enough, Dumalt said. In situations where it can be done safely, you can use a candle or lamp to save batteries.
While you’re picking up candles, stock up on extra batteries, too, and be sure to check your flashlights or electric lanterns to determine which batteries they require.
Here are some emergency power outage tips from the American Red Cross:
- Avoid opening the refrigerator and freezer.
- Do not run a generator inside a home or garage.
- If you use a generator, connect the equipment you want to power directly to the outlets on the generator. Do not connect a generator to a home’s electrical system.
- Listen to local radio and television for updated information.
- Turn off or disconnect any appliances, equipment (like air conditioners) or electronics you were using when the power went out. When power comes back on, it may come back with momentary surges or spikes that can damage equipment such as computers and motors in appliances like the air conditioner, refrigerator, washer or furnace.
- Leave one light turned on so you’ll know when your power returns.
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So here’s the deal – the nationwide ice storm, with arctic temps is on the way and expected to hit by Thursday morning. You haven’t prepared for such a disaster, and there is a good chance the power will go out. What can you do, right now, to prepare your home and family for the blizzard?
by Leon Pantenburg
To start with, DON’T PANIC! To survive a winter storm inside your home you need food, water, warm shelter and lighting.
If you get busy, you should be able to make all these preparations in about four hours or so.
Food: Let’s hope you have a several-day supply. If not, go shopping immediately. You will have to battle crowds, but grocery stores don’t keep much in the back room. If the highways are blocked, the store will run completely out of food in a day or two. It could be several days before more supplies can get in.
Do off-grid cooking in the garage, some well-ventilated area or outside. The carbon monoxide from lighted charcoal, a gas stove or propane cooker can be deadly in a closed, sealed area.
Heat: You may not have any heat at all if the electricity goes out. And if you don’t have some sort of non-electric heater, it’s going to get cold inside.
But you can survive. Start by cutting down on the area that needs to be heated. If you have a fireplace or wood stove, make that the center of the home for the next few days, and get lots of wood inside. Move everyone into that area, and seal off the rest of the house. The idea is to have everyone in one room to conserve heat and light.
Hang blankets over doors, and roll up towels to put at the bottom of doors and windows. Cardboard, cut to fit, is a great insulator, but it blocks the light. Stop the wind!
Then, take all the blankets, sleeping bags, warm coats etc and put them in that central room. Pretend you’re camping – everyone make a warm bed or place to stay. It may get cold in the the house, but you’ll survive in the warm room.
Be careful not to seal the room too well. If you’re using anything with an open flame, it will emit carbon dioxide, and it must be properly vented. Carbon monoxide poisoning can be fatal.
Water: Store as much as you can while the power is still on. Fill your bathtube, and all the empty containers you have while the water is still running. If you can still get bottled water, stock up as best you can. In a pinch, you can empty your water heater – it will have up to 60 gallons of water in it. (Here’s how to gather the water in your plumbing system.)
– The drinking water should be kept some place where it won’t freeze.
– You should still be able to flush the toilet by pouring water in the commode tank. Otherwise, you better have a five gallon bucket to use as an emergency latrine.
Lighting: Make the best use of whatever light sources are available. Get all the spare candles and lamps together and inventory what
you have. Then, conserve your resources, and use them wisely. Several people may be able to use the same light source simultaneously in activities such as reading or playing a board game around a lighted candle or lamp.
Here are a few other tips for survival living inside your house:
– Don’t waste batteries. Use flashlights sparingly, and this is not a time to depend on electronic games! Schedule regular radio listening times, for favorite music programs. Or know where to find a show that gives an upbeat, positive spin to the depressing, emergency situation.
– Have lots of board or card games around. Many of them can be played around a single lighted candle. (During one memorable Iowa blizzard many years ago, my entire family played Monopoly for nearly three days straight! I went bankrupt several times!)
– Have a big selection of good books to read. Don’t rely on a Kindle! When the batteries die out, so do the stories. Find books that can be read aloud, and let the kids do some of the reading.
– Useful craft projects, that contribute to the overall well-being of the group, can be appreciated.
Nobody wants a power outage. But the right attitude and some preparation can keep the situation from becoming too bad. Besides, when it is all over, there will be all these war stories to tell. Who knows – maybe the enforced family time will have proven beneficial!
Finding a place to hunt can be really tough. Here are a few tips that might help you get onto that prime habitat.
by Leon Pantenburg
When I was growing up in Iowa, my dad and several of my uncles were farmers. My access to good hunting in Central Iowa was virtually guaranteed.
My hunting party, which generally consisted of me, my brother Mike and Bob Patterson, had the hunting thing down. (We generally hit my Aunt Edna and Uncle Henry Adams’ place about mid-morning. We’d stop by the house first to say “Hi” and let them know where we would be hunting. Edna would have cinnamon rolls and coffee ready by the time we checked back in!)
But others weren’t so lucky. On opening day of pheasant season, our farm house would be swamped with people wanting to hunt the cornfields.
Dad and my uncles might or might not give access to hunters, and whether or not permission was granted depended on a lot of variables.
Here are some hunting access tips I picked up.
Start early: Scouting for prime hunting spots needed to start well before the opening day. Make a list of locations, and plan out a hunting route. Don’t spend opening day driving from farm to farm and road hunting. Decide where you hope to hunt, then go visit the landowner before the season starts.
Unless absolutely necessary, don’t ask on opening day: Landowners are typically swamped on opening day with people they’ve never seen before wanting access. It gets so bad in Iowa sometimes, that farmers put signs on their mailboxes stating words to the effect of: “Don’t even bother to ask.”
Assuming there is no sign, it’s time to make
The initial contact:
Make a good first impression: NEVER have a firearm in view when you’re talking to a farmer. Your hunting clothes may be patched and worn (Mine are!) but you don’t need to look like a bum. You are trying to show the landowner that you are a responsible person, and worthy of using his land.
Introduce yourself and state what you want: Don’t waste the landowner’s time. If permission is refused, thank him or her politely, and wish them a good day.
Take a kid hunting: Youngsters need to learn how to approach land owners. Take the kid with you when you go to ask permission. They need to learn the ropes, and besides, most farmers are really open to the idea of letting kids hunt.
If it looks like the landowner may be leaning toward granting you access, then:
Establish credibility: Present a card with your phone number, vehicle license plate number and contact info. Point out that you appreciate the opportunity to hunt the land, and that you respect his property.
Here’s something that really helps. Bring up that you will absolutely close every gate, and that you know how to cross a fence.
Nothing hacks off a farmer faster than seeing someone crawling over the wire between two posts. That stretches the wire, and makes the fence sag. Cross right next to a post, and before climbing unload your firearm. EVERY time.
Offer to build up some sweat equity: Farmers generally need seasonal help. Offer to invest some time working for the farmer in exchange for hunting privileges. You’d be surprised how well this works. Even if the landowner doesn’t have something for you to do, he may be impressed that you offered.
If you’re allowed to hunt, treat it like a precious, perishable privilege, which it is. Ask or check in every time you hunt on the land.
Leave the property better than when you found it: Come back to your vehicle with a garbage bag full of trash you picked up and that is bound to make a landowner smile. If the roads are muddy, walk. Don’t tear up the land.
Stop in at the end of the hunt, and let the landowner know you’re gone, and thank them again.
Then, during the off season:
Remember the landowner: If you’ve harvested a deer, take them some backstrap or steaks. Share the birds or waterfowl you’ve harvested.
Send a Christmas card, along with a small gift – after all, being able to hunt on private property is someone’s gift to you. Respect and appreciate it, and you may be able to use that gift for years.
Sometimes, a couple small tweaks can change something from almost perfect to WOW!
by Leon Pantenburg
Knives Ship Free is a Survivalcommonsense.com sponsor. I didn’t get free knives, and don’t get a special deal on any company’s products.
My favorite everyday carry knife kinda depends on what I’m doing and where I’m going. My L.T. Wright Genesis gets worked hard when I’m doing bushcraft stuff. The Ambush Tundra is my favorite hunting knife. But for day-in, day-out EDC carry, I tend to reach for my Bark River Gunny. It just works well.
I don’t get a special deal on any company’s knives, and I won’t use a knife that can’t be depended on. And I have a lot of really good, high-quality knives from different manufacturers. All of them get regular use.
But those of us who wear size large gloves and bigger can’t use just any knife. Many otherwise excellent knives just don’t work because the handle ends up being too short.
That was the case for my favorite curly maple handled Gunny. It is a great knife for me most of the year. But when it gets cold, and I have to wear gloves while using it, the handle proves to be just a tinge on the small size.
Naturally, that lead to another quest for cutlery perfection.
When I’m testing a knife, and something isn’t just right, I’ll sometimes loan it out to an experienced outdoorsperson and get their feedback. Frequently, what works for me, doesn’t work for others. (For example, the BR Trakker handle just wasn’t comfortable, so I sent it out for a second opinion.)
I got a Bravo LT about three years ago, used it, and loaned it to my brother Mike, with no other instructions than “Use it and tell me what you think of it.” (Mike has been my hunting partner for some 38 years. He got a Lon Humphrey Sterling for his 50th birthday.)
Mike gutted and skinned a buck with the Bravo, and was very complimentary about the edge-holding ability and overall design. But he mentioned that the tip needed to be thinner to skin around the front shoulders and head of a deer.
And both of us prefer a clip point with a swedge for a gutting knife.
Based on Mike’s feedback, and my own use of the Gunny and the Bravo, I decided I needed a Gunny with a Bravo handle.
Well, that isn’t a factory option, but BR has a satisfaction guarantee that is next to none. I contacted the company and asked how much it would cost to have my Bravo re-ground to resemble a Gunny Hunter.
That’s part of the satisfaction guaranteed warranty, I was told, so give a detailed description of what you want done, and send it in. Total cost = $15.
So my instructions were explicit. Don’t touch the handle. Shape it like Gunny Hunter: Swedge, clip point and full height convex grind.
The end result is just a bigger Gunny, with a large enough handle for people with “ham hocks” hands.
To say I like is a tremendous understatement!
Most people won’t understand the difference between the Gunny/Bravo and the Gunny or the Bravo. They might wonder why I’d bother with a re-grind when both knives are stellar performers.
Well, it probably wouldn’t matter. But there are some things I don’t compromise on, and at the top of the list is outdoor equipment I depend on. When a knife of piece of outdoor gear is just right, it makes the intended task easier and safer.
I’ll let you know. But right now, it feels like the Gunny/Bravo is going to be “just right.”
Check out our other survival knife reviews.
How will you pitch a tarp so it can handle really nasty weather? Here’s what to do.
by Robert Patterson
In June of 2016 I went with a friend to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area for six days of camping, canoeing, and fishing. After arriving at our second day’s campsite, and making a run to fill up the water bladder, the wind started to blow. It came up steadily and consistently until it was blowing 30-40 mph.
Over the next three days it blew consistently at 30-40mph. The gusts must have been 40-50+mph at times. It kept us camp bound for three days.
Severe storms were forecast. Other than our tents, a tarp was the only shelter and we weren’t going anywhere soon. Since we had each taken a personal tent, we didn’t really have one tent to hang out in during inclement weather, so the gathering place was under the tarp.
Bottom line: we’d much rather be sitting out under a tarp than cooped up in a tent.
Here are some considerations for pitching a tarp (also called rain fly) and meeting the challenges presented by relentless wind.
There are basically two shapes – square and rectangle. OK, there are also some funky batwing looking things floating around, too. You won’t know what works until you get one and learn how to pitch it. Just in case, I have three or four of each.
Bottom line: The bigger the tarp, the more dry area you have. And, the bigger the tarp, the heavier it is. Heavier material is generally stronger, but it’s also heavier.
Consider the kind of trip, expected weather, mode of travel, and priorities. How many people/how much stuff do you have to cover? What’s more important area coverage or weight? There are hundreds of different types and materials – not to be covered here.
The basic tenant is people always choose a tarp that is too small. Remember, the area around the edge is a splash/blow-in (or wet) zone that is always wet in a rain storm and even worse in a high wind.
I have two “go-to” tarps. Both are taffeta nylon, which is heavier than rip-stop but stronger. One is 12’x12’ and the other is 12’x16’ – I use the 12’x16’ the most. I’m looking for a larger one, but I’m not going to pay $400 for it.
I consider 12’X12’ the absolute minimum for two people and have often taken my 12’x16’ on solo trips. It’s a great comfort when the weather turns bad and you’re going to spend a lot of time under it.
The camp site
During summer, when bugs are a major consideration, I try to camp on a point that is pointed into the wind coming across the lake. Of course, the minute you get set up in such a campsite, the wind will switch. Don’t bother to change campsites, because you know what will happen – again.
In a perfect world, after finding the perfect campsite, the tarp would be pitched so the edge into the wind can be lowered next to the ground, which also slopes away from the tarp toward the lake. This arrangement will minimize the wet zone on the windward side. It will keep the wind from blowing under the tarp and or causing the tarp to “kite”.
The more movement as the tarp blows around, the more likely it will be damaged or come down. A tight tarp is a stable tarp, and a lot more comfortable to be under. This set-up also keeps the rain draining away from the tarp rather than running underneath it and through your living area as it would if it drained on the uphill side.
To make this picture easier to see: Both the land and the tarp are slanted downhill toward the lake and the wind is coming in off the lake.
Pitch it high / Pitch it low
Pitching a tarp high will give good head room and room to move around. In a wind, it will also allow the wind to catch the tarp causing it to “kite” or billow up like a parachute. This works well on a balmy day where you’re mostly using the tarp for shade and the wind isn’t too strong.
If you pitch the leading edge into the wind low, the wind will drive the tarp down. This is best for inclement weather when you are trying to keep yourself and your stuff dry. It doesn’t work well over a fire.
Remember the splash/blow-in zone around the edges? The higher you pitch the tarp, the larger this zone is. For practical purposes, unless the tarp is right down on the ground, figure on a wet zone of two feet.
In a really kicking storm, I like to stake the leading edge right down to the ground, or even lay a log on it. Hence eliminating what is usually the largest wet splash/blow-in zone.
The tarp has to drain. Pitch it flat and it will “pond” – water will collect in a big puddle in the tarp. The weight of the water may cause the tarp to rip or come crashing and splashing down.
In your campsite management, try to designate a drainage area. Preferably away from the area you and your campmates will be occupying and make that the low area of the tarp. Both terrain contours and the wind should be considered in making this decision.
Other methods of controlling drainage and interior room include mid-tarp supports. The dark tabs in the middle of the tarp are for tying extra support ropes to. By raising specific parts of your fly, you can eliminate ponding areas and address wind issues. The use of topside cords on the tarp keeps the underside area clear and open for use.
Another method is using a support pole underneath the fly. Of course, having a pole in the middle of things under the tarp puts some limitations on the use of the area. The other consideration is the tarp material, as poles tend to wear and sometimes even poke holes in the fabric. Wear patches work very well to protect the tarp material.
In conjunction with the patch I sewed on a couple of loops of climbing web in an “X”, and a cord run through the ends of the loops. A pole end is placed in the middle of the X, the ends of the web are folded over the end of the pole, and the cord ends are tied around the pole. If the wind is strong enough to pick up the tarp, the pole will be picked up with it instead of just falling down and needing to be reset. When the fly settles back down, the pole will automatically be set back in place.
When sewing patches and tie tabs on your tarp, be sure to place a backup piece on the underside for strength. During the height of a storm in BWCA, the main tie tab on my tarp ripped right out taking a chunk of the tarp fabric with it. This creates a great deal of excitement for about five seconds. Unbeknownst to me at the time, the tab had only been sewn to the tarp material and not through the bottom patch.
There are hundreds of configurations to pitch a tarp in. These can be covered in another article. I typically use the standard “A” frame configuration, or some variation, for 95% of my use.
This pitch has the best of all worlds – amount of protected area, strength, and versatility. The best advantage is it can be changed from fair weather to storm mode very quickly and altered in the middle of a storm to accommodate changing conditions. I avoid pitching a fly in diamond configuration – that is tying the corners to the main trees and out to the sides. In my experience this form will give you the least usable room and peripheral coverage from storms.
Any point that gets tied “UP”, should also get tied “DOWN” when you’re expecting high winds. Any cords tied to a point on the tarp that will be above your reach when the fly is raised, will have to be in place before the tarp is raised – plan ahead.
The “A” frame pitch can also be flipped over itself and out the way when not needed. If the tarp is over your fire pit, half of it can be flipped out of the way when you want to have a fire. Holes burned in the tarp create their own problems.
This method also works when the wind get too severe. Simply flipping half of it over the other will allow you to leave the tarp rigged up, and give the wind a lot less area to work on.
I guess I failed to mention the most important consideration when pitching a fly – the position of available trees. Two for the center ridge, and one 45 degrees off of each corner doesn’t happen very often – or ever. You’ll just have to figure out how to use what Mother Nature gives you. (Are you getting the idea that this process involves a whole lot of insight, foresight, creativity, imagination, and innovation?) But, at a bare minimum it’s best to have two good trees with usable branches.
The ridge line is the main support. It can be two cords tied to center grommets on opposite sides of the tarp, one cord stretched all the way across between two trees with the tarp thrown over it, or cords used to support a ridge line pole which actually supports the tarp. Tying to the two center grommets is kind of self-explanatory, as is throwing the tarp over a ridge pole hung between two trees.
When using a continuous ridge line, the fly can be held in place with prusiks placed on each side of it. A prusik is a loop of cord tied on to another line. When the loop is pulled on it will bind and hold, and when the knot portion is pulled it will slide on the line it is tied around. (Find a climbing book because there’s no room to do a knots class here.) A fly connected in such a manner can be slid back and forth on the ridge line and secured into the desired position without having to jockey the main ridge lines and retie them each time, as on using two lines on the center grommets. It also makes it easier to position the tarp around the fire. (The left end of the “S” clip link would get clipped to the tarp.)
Take a good climbing or rescue class and learn some proper knots. Unless you already have a good working knowledge of knots, books will be of limited value in expanding your horizons. If the wind is high, your rigging will get jerked around to the max and you’ll soon learn if you did it right. All knots should be finished with a quick release, which means you push a bight through to finish it rather than the plain working end. When it’s cold, or rainy, or both, the quick release allows you to quickly untie the knot with one pull rather than picking at it in adverse conditions.
Which takes us to the rigging for the corner of the tarp. I didn’t invent this method, I just adapted some climbing techniques for a different purpose. I use a self-equalizing anchor which spreads the stress out over three grommets rather than putting it all on the corner grommet.
Take about 8 – 12 feet of paracord and tie one end to the grommet adjacent to the corner. Pass the other end of the cord through the corner grommet and tie it to the next adjacent grommet. There will be two loops between the three grommets. Put one loop over the other and clip them together with a carabiner. (I use cheap keyring type carabiner found in any hardware store.) The carabiner is then tied to an anchor. This rigging can slide back and forth allowing for a directional pull that isn’t exactly in-line with the corner.
When choosing an anchor for high wind, look for something that is “bomb proof”. That is, if a bomb goes off next to It, it will still be intact. You may be in trouble, but the anchor will hold. Due to the amount of jerking around the tarp gets in a high wind, tent stakes are often pulled out rather quickly. Digging a little hole under a tree root works well.
Take what works for you, master it, and make it yours.
Robert Patterson is on my short list of people to go into the wilderness with. Bob is a skilled outdoorsman, an avid deer hunter, and for more than two decades, has done an annual solo, two-week canoe trip in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
His career choices make Bob a great guy to review gear. A retired firefighter and first responder, Bob was also an EMT, and his job required he be out in all sorts of nasty, cold Minnesota weather. (Bob knows his foul weather gear and is my go-to guy for questions about winter camping, rain gear or other survival clothing !)
Bob is also a retired member of the National Ski Patrol, and a certified rope rescue instructor.
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One size doesn’t fit all when it comes to knives.
by Leon Pantenburg
What works for me may not work for you, and vice versa. This is particularly noticeable when it comes to hunting knives – different handles are for different-sized hands. If the handle doesn’t fit you, it may be uncomfortable to use, and worst case scenario, potentially dangerous.
That was my situation when I did the initial review of the Bark River Trakker Companion. I have large hands, and must have at least a four-inch handle on a knife to use it comfortably.
I tried and tried, but the Trakker Companion just didn’t work for me. So I sent the knife off to another experienced gear tester, my old college roommate Robert Patterson, of Mankato, Minnesota. (Incidentally, Bob has smaller hands than I do!)
Bob is on my short list of people to go into the wilderness with. Bob is a skilled outdoorsman, an avid deer hunter, and for two decades, did an annual solo, two-week canoe trip in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
His career choices make Bob a great guy to review gear. A retired firefighter and first responder, Bob was also an EMT, and his job required he be out in all sorts of nasty, cold Minnesota weather. (He knows his foul weather gear!) Bob is also a retired member of the National Ski Patrol, and a certified rope rescue instructor. He’s my go-to guy when I have questions about winter camping, rain gear or other survival clothing.
I sent Bob the Trakker Companion with no instructions other than “Use it, and tell me what you think.” Here’s Bob’s comments:
By Robert Patterson
I recently had the opportunity to try out the Bark River, Trakker Companion fixed blade knife. The name, Companion, is very fitting as this is a great utility knife that a person would carry with them every day. Its shape, size, and sturdy blade, easily make it your “go-to” knife to do the multitude of cutting chores on a daily basis.
The Companion felt very nimble with a balance point between the first and second fingers, making it easy to use especially in fine work like carving sticks for a figure-four trap and food preparation. The blade is stout enough to easily split kindling.
Bark River obviously takes pride in manufacturing this knife. The handle has good symmetry but also shows attention to hand crafting. The metal and wood interface is extremely precise, giving it a smooth feel. It’s also very sturdy with a four-millimeter spine, full tang, and solid rivet construction.
The blade has a good utility shape that works well from whittling to skinning. The taper from spine to edge gives it strength and an edge that is easy to keep sharp. The square corners on the spine are sharp making it very effective for use with a ferrocerium rod in creating a good spark for starting a fire.
The model I received has a dark curly maple handle, which is really beautiful wood with a tiger stripe appearance that serves pretty well for camouflage too.
The handle is grooved for the first two fingers. It does not have a finger guard, but the Companion’s contoured shape gives it secure control even when slimy. The size of the handle is for small hands, which I have. It fits me very well, but will give the person with large hands some serious manipulation control issues. (Editor’s note: Like Leon!)
The Companion comes with a unique ambidextrous sheath. It is a full-length sheath with a friction fit.
I love it. The knife can be left with the butt exposed for convenient access, or shoved farther in for extra security. With the straps on the back of the sheath, it can be worn either vertically or horizontally. The sheath is stitched with heavy nylon and riveted. The rivets are hollow which allows it to be lashed to pack straps for easy access where it won’t interfere when wearing a pack waist belt.
The sheath is not waterproof treated and quickly absorbs any liquid leaving water stains – or worse. I would suggest treating the sheath before taking it out in the field.
Overall, the Companion is a utilitarian workhorse that should provide the user with a long life of service. Just keep in mind the size of the handle is best suited for smaller hands.
(Editor’s note: I talked to Bob on the phone recently, and he mentioned that there is a 10-point buck hanging around an area he hunts. Blackpowder season starts soon, and the Trakker Companion will hopefully get used for field dressing!
The bottom line – for any outdoor equipment – is ALWAYS: It has to work for you!)
Anyone who drives faces the possibility of spending a unplanned night in a vehicle. Bad weather, breakdowns, running out of fuel, getting stuck are some of the more common reasons why a driver might have to bed down for the night (or perhaps for several nights) until the situation is resolved. A night out does not have to be a life threatening experience.
by Peter Kummerfeldt
Assembling a survival kit is the first step and, as with any survival kit, the contents should be selected based on personal needs, the season and the geographic location. (See following list of recommended equipment) If you become stranded you’ll be glad you took the time to put together an emergency kit.
In addition to the kit, you should also evaluate the effectiveness of your clothing to keep you warm in a cold vehicle when the engine isn’t running. Most people dress to arrive at a destination and not to survive a night out. — the reverse would be more appropriate “Dress to survive not just to arrive!”
When traveling with others don’t forget to provide sufficient supplies for the additional people as well. Preparation also involves ensuring that your vehicle is ready for winter travel. Never set out in stormy conditions without a full tank of gas, a good battery, proper tires, a heater and exhaust system in good working condition, good anti-freeze and a good dose of “common sense.”
If you do get trapped by a blizzard or severe snow storm – “don’t panic!” Stay with your car and use your survival kit. Your vehicle makes a good shelter and an effective signal – don’t leave it.” In your car you are warm (warmer than being outside), dry and protected from the weather. Trying to dig yourself out or attempting to walk to help can be fatal. “Sit tight – let the rescuers come to you!” Move all of your emergency equipment and any other useful gear into the passenger compartment.
SHELTERING IN YOUR VEHICLE
While sitting out a storm you must use your resources sparingly – you don’t know how long you’ll be there. While the car will shelter you from the wind and keep you dry you will need to keep the interior warm. The heat your body produces is insufficient to heat the interior.
Sitting in a car you will become cold quickly—especially your feet. Put on your warmest clothes (socks, hat, gloves, long underwear and additional insulation layers), wrap yourself in blankets or get into a sleeping bag before you become cold. Sit sideways so that you can place your feet on the seat where the foam cushioning will offer insulation from the cold. The foot wells will be the coldest part of the vehicle.
Alternatively, place foam padding under your feet to insulate them. Place insulation behind your head so that it does not come in contact with the cold window when you lean back.
If you are the sole occupant use a space blanket and duct tape to partition off the back of the vehicle from the front so you only have to warm the part of the vehicle you are occupying. Ways to warm the interior of your vehicle include running the engine for short periods of time, long-burning candles, small stoves and Isopropyl alcohol/toilet paper improvised heaters. Run the engine about ten minutes each hour or for shorter periods each half hour but only after ensuring that the exhaust is not damaged and the tail pipe is clear of snow and other debris. Run the engine on the hour or half-hour – times that coincide with news and weather broadcasts.
Ventilate the vehicle by opening a downwind window approximately one inch. Carbon monoxide is a very real threat to your safety. Do not go to sleep with the engine running. Carbon monoxide poisoning can sneak up on you without warning. Almost 60% of the unintentional deaths in the United States each year are caused by carbon monoxide poisoning from motor vehicle exhausts. It is far less risky to use your clothing and other sources of heat to keep yourself warm.
If you have to get out of the vehicle in a blizzard put on additional windproof clothing, and snow goggles if you have them, then tie a lifeline to yourself and the door handle before moving away from the proximity of the vehicle. In a white-out condition visibility can be as low as 12 inches.
Eat right. Without enough energy stored in your body you will not have the ability to generate heat to keep your body warm. Your emergency kit should include quantities of high-calorie, non-perishable food (carbohydrate food bars). Keep yourself hydrated. Dehydrated people have great difficulty maintaining their body temperature. Don’t eat snow! It takes body heat to convert snow to liquid. Use your heat sources to melt snow for your drinking water. Don’t smoke – the nicotine in cigarettes reduces blood flow to the skin and extremities and increases the possibilities of frostbite. Don’t drink alcohol – alcohol affects judgment. Bad judgment decreases the chances of survival.
Emergency equipment to store in your vehicle
Cellular phone with charger
Four quart bottles of water
Three dehydrated meals
Other carbohydrate based foods
Tools to include jack & spare tire
Folding or breakdown shovel
Blankets or sleeping bags
Chemical hand heater packets
Waterproof, windproof matches
Basic first aid kit
Two empty cans (one for melting snow & the other for sanitary purposes)
Sack of cat litter
Windshield scraper and brush
Spare personal medications
Flashlight and spare batteries
Portable radio with spare batteries
Emergency candles and/or small stove
Book to read
25 – 50 feet of nylon cord
Peter Kummerfeldt has walked the talk in the wilderness survival field for decades.
Peter grew up in Kenya, East Africa and came to America in 1965 and joined the U.S. Air Force. He is a graduate of the Air Force Survival Instructor Training School and has served as an instructor at the Basic Survival School, Spokane, Washington; the Arctic Survival School, Fairbanks, Alaska, and the Jungle Survival School, Republic of the Philippines.
For twelve years, Peter was the Survival Training Director at the United States Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs, Colorado. He retired from the Air Force in 1995 after 30 years of service.
In 1992, concerned with the number of accidents that were occurring in the outdoors annually and the number of tourists traveling overseas who were involved in unpleasant and sometimes life-threatening incidents Peter created
He is the author of “Surviving a Wilderness Emergency” and has addressed over 20,000 people as the featured speaker at numerous seminars, conferences and national conventions.
Check out Peter’s blog at: OutdoorSafe.blogspot.com
Your first line of defense against hypothermia is your clothing. Make the right choices to survive
In this video, produced by the Colorado Parks and Wildlife, survival expert Peter Kummerfeldt explains how to dress to survive under the most extreme conditions:
Outdoor Survival-Chapter 7-Clothing from Colorado Parks & Wildlife on Vimeo.
Dressing to survive starts with knowing what fabrics to wear, no matter what the season or conditions may be, or what the conditions might be. Different fabrics have radically different properties. Choosing the wrong type, or mixing clothing of
different materials, can be disastrous!
You may not be able to tell what a garment is made of by looking. A nice, fuzzy, thick 100-percent cotton flannel shirt will be warm and cozy until it gets wet. Then that wet shirt may suck the heat out of your torso and cause hypothermia!
On the other side of the equation is wool. My hands-down favorite in the winter, wool, is generally not the best choice for a desert hike in August. Wool traps heat, and while it provides some UV protection, the material will prevent your body from cooling.
So, the buyer needs to beware.
Before buying any clothing item, read the labels and find out what the material is. Ignore fashion or what’s trendy (I know that’s hard – I have a wife and a 21-year-old daughter!), and make your purchase based on the activity and the clothing protection that will be needed.
Here are some common fabric choices:
* Cotton: Depending on where you live, cotton clothing can kill you. Cotton is hydrophilic, meaning it is no good at wicking wetness away from the skin, and can become damp just by being exposed to humidity.
Once wet, cotton feels cold and can lose up to 90 percent of its insulating properties. Wet cotton can wick heat from your body 25 times faster than when it’s dry.
Since I’ve spent a lot of time in the Deep South, my favorite hot weather shirt is a medium-weight, white, 100 percent cotton Navy surplus shirt. The shirt has a collar that can be pulled up to shade my neck, and pockets with flaps and buttons. Cotton also has a reasonable amount of UV protection.
On really hot days in a canoe, a cotton shirt can be soaked with water, and worn to cool you down. On a desert hike, help prevent heat stroke by using a few ounces of water to wet the shirt down. (The water can come from anywhere, including that algae-edged stock tank. The evaporation is what cools you!)
Typical urban casual garb is probably all cotton: sweatsocks, Hanes or Fruit of the Loom underwear, jeans, tee shirt, flannel shirt and sweatshirt. This outfit may keep you warm in town, but don’t wear it into the backcountry! Once the cotton gets wet, you could end up in trouble.
Don’t be mislead by the looks and camouflage patterns of 100 percent cotton hunting clothes. These garments may be just what you need for a hot, September dove hunt in Mississippi, but they become cold and clammy when damp or wet, just like anything else made of cotton.
* Polypropylene: This material doesn’t absorb water, so it is a hydrophobic. This makes it a great base layer, since it wicks moisture away from your body. The bad news is that polypropylene melts, so a spark from the campfire may melt holes in your clothing.
* Wool: Where I live in Central Oregon, wool is the standard for six months of the year. Wool absorbs moisture, but stays warmer than many other fabrics. Wool is also inherently flame retardant.
* Polyester: This is essentially fabric made from plastic, and it’s good stuff. The material has good insulative and windstopping value, and can be made into many different thicknesses.
* Nylon: The fabric is pretty tough and can be used on your outer layer. It doesn’t absorb much moisture, and what does evaporates quickly. It is best used as some sort of windbreaker, to keep your clothing from being compromised by the wind.
* Down: This material is not a fabric, but rather, fluffy feathers stuffed inside a garment or sleeping bag. When dry, down is one of my favorite insulative materials.
In addition, a down sleeping bag or garment is virtually impossible to dry out in the backcountry, even with a roaring campfire.
Do you get uneasy when it the sun starts to go down? Prefer to have a nightlight on, and don’t like dark places at all? What happens if you get lost, and the darkness starts to fall? Here are some ways to help you deal with this problem before it develops into a survival situation.
by Leon Pantenburg
This story comes from Sgt. Marvin Combs former coordinator of the Deschutes County (Oregon) Search and Rescue:
The hiker had kept going all night, even though he was hopelessly lost in the Three Sisters Wilderness near Bend, OR. The night was very dark, he didn’t know the terrain and eventually the batteries of his light wore out. The hiker could easily have walked over a cliff, fallen over a log or rock or gotten seriously injured. The next morning, he came out on a road, miles from where any searchers had been looking.
He was afraid to stop and couldn’t build a fire, Combs said.
So why did he keep moving?
“He told us: ‘I heard animals or something moving all around me,’” Combs said in an interview for the Bend Bulletin Winter Survival Guide.
In this case, fear of the dark could have lead to disaster. So if you start to feel a little edgy as the sun goes down, don’t let that affect decisions you may have to make in a survival situation. The time to deal with that fear is before the survival situation develops.
Start by admitting the problem. And don’t think you’re alone.
See video below.
Fear of the dark is called nyctophobia. Sigmund Freud was one of the earliest researchers who made a study of this problem. He thought fear of the dark is an expression of separation anxiety.
In his book “Emotion” William Lyons writes: “Fear of the dark is not fear of the absence of light, but fear of possible or imagined dangers concealed by the darkness.” It sort of relates to the fear of the unknown.
Many, many adults are afraid of the dark, and some won’t know it until the all the lights go out.
Think about it: The majority of big city dwellers are never in complete darkness. Street lights, the ambient glow from stores and shopping centers, night lights in the house and other illumination sources assure that you are never completely in the dark.
But suddenly, you end up in the dark. If you are uneasy when you can’t see, that might cause you to act irrationally, or do something crazy.
Here is one suggested way to get over that fear. Psychologists call this systematic desensitization. The idea is to confront the issue or problem in small, manageable steps andgradually desensitize yourself.
Here are some steps to take:
- Realize the problem and decide to do something about it. Come up with some good reasons to conquer this fear. It could be that you have family responsibilities, and during an emergency, would need to take care of others.
- Then consider what might be causing that fear and give it a name, such as fear of wild animals in the dark. Research the possibility of animal attacks and decide if your fear is grounded in reality. Do this with any nameless fear – the first step to overcoming that is to know what it is.
- Find a safe spot outside, if possible, that will get completely dark as some point and go there. Sit down and observe the surroundings. Stay as the sun starts to set, and leave when you start to feel uncomfortable. Do this regularly, extending the time you spend there. The goal is to be able to sit in complete darkness.
- If you live in the big city, you may have to go to your closet and regulate the light with the door and different-sized lights.( It is probably best not to do this without explaining it to other residents of the house.)
- As you sit, listen and use your senses. Remember, the only difference between daylight and darkness is that you have lost your sense of sight. You can still listen, smell and feel the wind or weather on your skin. Make this a sensory experience and concentrate on using all your senses.
- Take up astronomy if that is feasible, and go look at the stars. Learn how to tell directions by the constellations, and learn some of the history of celestial navigation. An activity that requires darkness is a good way to take your mind off your fears.
I’m not afraid of the dark, but I don’t like stumbling around, so I always carry backup LED keyring lights in my pocket or attached to my coat zipper fob. Get a light that has an on-off switch, and preferably one that doesn’t turn on when it is squeezed. Otherwise, it may inadvertently turn on when you don’t want it to.
The right keyring light can also provide about eight hours of illumination, and may be enough to get you safely back to the car in the dark. Some preparation can keep you from wandering around in the dark.
Overcoming a fear of the dark is nothing more than being prepared. And everything you do to increase your overall preparedness for an unexpected emergency is a good thing!
Anyone wanting an authentic-looking mountain man rifle need look no further than the Lyman Great Plains Rifle.
by Leon Pantenburg
The Great Plains Rifle came with the best possible endorsement from Charles Crowther, a rifle making master.
Charlie got me started in the blackpowder addiction. I met him when I was a reporter for the Vicksburg Evening Post, in Vicksburg, Mississipi. Charlie made longrifles from scratch, and in 1982, I was assigned to write a story about his hobby.
Charlie didn’t sell his rifles, and I couldn’t have afforded one if he did. (Here’s how I finally got one.)
I had bought a .54 caliber Thompson Center Renegade for deer hunting in Mississippi, before I met Charlie, but the rifle and I never bonded. It was too modern-looking and shiny, and it didn’t fit in with how I thought a longrifle should look. I couldn’t find an authentic-looking finished rifle, so I decided to assemble and finish one from a kit.
Charlie recommended the Great Plains Rifle as “the one I’d get if I was making a kit rifle.”
I was fine with that – I had been eyeing the kit for a while. The Lyman was a replica of the famed Hawken of mountain man fame, and I had wanted one since I saw the movie “The Mountain Men” with Charleton Heston and Brian Keith.
Someday, I wanted a Pennsylvania rifle with patchbox, curly maple stock and a flintlock for squirrel hunting, but until I could save up for it, I would use a Great Plains Rifle.
So I ordered a .50 caliber percussion kit from Mid South Guns, in Wagrum, North Carolina, and by mistake, two arrived. The company offered to pay for return shipping, but I decided to buy the extra kit, and finish it too.
My brother Mike was graduating from high school in a few months, and that was his graduation present. We’ve hunted all over the country with those rifles.
Here’s the Great Plains Rifle specs:
- 32″ barrel with 1 in 60″ twist for patched ball and hunting loads. Barrel is 15/16- inch wide.
- Adjustable double set triggers
- European walnut stock
- Hawken style percussion “snail” with clean out screw
- Separate ramrod entry thimble and nose cap
- Adjustable rear and primitive sights
- Percussion coil spring lock with period-correct lock plate
- Available in .50 and .54 caliber flint or percussion, and come in factory assembled or kit form.
- Weight: 9 pounds
- MSRP ranges from $769.95 to $839.95. Kits are considerably less – shop around and you may find a deal.
Assembling and finishing the kits were well within the skills of anyone with reasonable woodworking skills and some basic hand tools. I finished the stock with linseed oil, and browned the barrel with a commercial browning solution.
When it was done, my Lyman looked just like I wanted it to. The finish was authentic, I think, and the walnut and steel held up well to extensive use in the woods and swamps of Mississippi. The dull finish was a great camouflage in the deciduous woods I hunted, and I soon acquired or made accouterments to match the rifle.
Once the Lyman was finished, Charlie and I went to the range to sight it in.
For a load, I settled on a 180-grain, .495 caliber round ball, with a .15 Thompson Center cotton patch. After considerable experimentation, I settled on Crisco for my patch lube.
I use Goex FFFG powder, at Charlie’s recommendation, for higher velocity. (I’m not telling how many grains.)
To find the best load, Charlie said, start out with a mild load, and keep adding powder to the charge until the rifle report starts to make a crack when fired.
The load and rifle has always been much more accurate than I can shoot. Generally, at 50 yards off a bench rest with sandbags, it would group three balls into one ragged hole. I did shoot several 2-to-3 inch groups at 100 yards, which was outstanding for my vision and iron sights. (Tip: Get some Whiteout typewriter correction fluid and paint your front sight with that. It makes seeing it a lot easier in dim light.)
Again at Charlie’s recommendation, I sighted the rifle to hit dead-on at 100 yards, which made it dead-on again at about 13-15 yards. I check any rifle I’m going to use before every hunting season, but the Great Plains Rifle’s sights have never needed adjustment.
Here’s the good stuff:
Design: For offhand shooting, I don’t think the old longrifle design has been improved upon. In heavy timber or cover, where a quick, offhand shot may be all you get, the Lyman’s balance and well-designed stock does really, really well. The stock fits my 5’10’ height really well. The crescent-shaped buttplate and the drop at the heel puts my cheek right on the stock so the sights are aligned.
All this design work makes for a fast-handling, quick-pointing rifle, and allows for an accurate first shot. And it’s the first shot that brings home the bacon, anyway.
Caliber: The.50 caliber round ball is a deer killer. If I were exclusively hunting elk, I’d opt for the .54. As it is, I’ve shot through both shoulders of a whitetail buck with the .50 at close to 100 yards. Several other deer at various ranges up to 100 yards dropped in their tracks from a well-placed ball from the Lyman.
Rugged: The mountain men typically carried an extra lock with them on long trips so they could replace a broken one. Other than the lock and trigger mechanism, there isn’t much that can go wrong with the rifle.
I’ve hunted all over the country with the Lyman, in all sorts of weather, and it has never failed to fire when called upon.
Good looks: Several other hunters have commented that the Lyman looks like an original. That’s what I intended. As a die-hard history nerd, I like having authentic-looking gear, because I like to set it up at camp or during breaks and look at it. That means there also has to be an authentic replica knife, period-correct powder horn and an old-timey shot bag.
Fun accouterments: Half the fun of setting up a blackpowder hunting system is coming up with the accessories. I’ve used replica knives, made my own powder measures and ball starters and in general, totally enjoyed the DIY aspect.
Some knife makers have figured out there is a real nostalgia market for the classic knives that go with the colonial frontier and Rocky Mountain fur trade eras. They’re putting out some classic knives made with modern materials.
So do you need a Lyman Great Plains Rifle?
Well, I do.
The actual kill is a very minor part of hunting for me. I’m there for the experience, and nothing makes for a better hunting experience than using the primitive tools of the pioneers.
To quote me, regarding the blackpowder experience:
Here’s how my ideal, bucket list scenario would play out: It’s mid-morning in Campbell’s Swamp, Mississippi, and I’ve bagged several squirrels. I stop by a spring where the water gushes out of the ground between two rocks. I have no hesitation about drinking my fill. Then, I prop Annabelle (my flintlock, but it could also be the Lyman) up against a hickory tree. I sink the Grenfell tomahawk in the tree next to the rifle, and hang the hunting pouch and horn on it. I looking at the ensemble.
I take out the C.T. Fischer knife out and gut and skin the squirrels. I place the carcasses in a culinary-quality mesh bag carried for that purpose. I wash the knife and my hands, then take out some hardtack I baked and some jerky I made from a deer I killed last year.
Then I’ll lean back, eat lunch and take in the surroundings. Annabelle and I fit in. I listen to the rippling water and the sounds of the woods. A quick gust of wind causes a few leaves to fall from the trees. A squirrel chatters up on the ridge, showing the morning feeding time may not be over. I watch quietly, because a buck just might come nosing along the treeline, on the way to get a drink.
I may or may not go after another squirrel. Or if I find some fresh sign, I might go deer hunting. I may go rambling. It’s all about feel. I’m thankful to be where I am, and wouldn’t change a thing.
Thank you Veterans!
I met World War II Marine Tom Teela, of La Pine, OR, while interviewing his grandson, Kyle Thompson. Thompson, a combat-wounded Marine, who had just returned from a tour of duty in Afghanistan. On Veterans Day, 2016, we are pleased and honored to re-post Tom Teela’s story of war in the Pacific.
by Leon Pantenburg
The 18-year-old Marine had been riding around in circles in a landing craft all night, waiting to land on a smoking, bomb-cratered coral atoll code named “Helen.” The embattled second Marines on shore were clinging to the narrow beach in the face of repeated counterattacks from the Japanese defenders.
Earlier that day, the Marine commander on shore had radioed that: “The issue is in doubt,” and the Marines ashore were clinging onto the beachhead through sheer tenacity.
“We had seen the smoke and heard the battle, from the railing of the ship, and wounded were being brought on board,” says Thomas Teela, 86, of La Pine. “We were in the reserve, and wondered why they didn’t send us in.”
Teela was a teenager during WWII, but like many of his generation, felt that he should serve in the Armed Forces. He was born in Havre, Montana, in 1925, and enlisted in the Marine Corps in September, 1942, at age 17. By the time he was old enough to buy a beer legally, Teela had been in some of the bloodiest battles in the Pacific, survived two suicidal “Banzai” charges, and been wounded at Saipan.
Teela, like most people during that time, was concerned about what was going on overseas.
“I’d been following the war in Europe and felt we needed to stop the Germans,” he said. “My father was a World War I Marine, and he’d been wounded at Belleau Wood. He was also the head of the local draft board, and I knew I would probably be drafted.”
The Marines specialized in amphibious assaults, Teela said, so he knew he’d probably end up in the Pacific.
During World War II, the American first priority was victory in the European theater of war. But the Pacific could hardly be ignored, or put on the back burner.
After the attack on Pearl Harbor on Dec.7, 1941, Japanese forces expanded rapidly. On April 9, 1942, U.S. forces on the Bataan peninsula in the Philippines surrendered unconditionally to the Japanese. This was followed by the unconditional surrender of U.S troops on Corrigador on May 6. This effectively removed most of the resistance in that area, and the Imperial forces advanced rapidly on Australia. The Japanese suffered a decisive defeat at the Naval battle of Midway on June 4-5, but it didn’t stop them from landing on Gona on New Guinea. In September, the First Marine Division invaded Tulagi and Guadalcanal in the Solomon Islands.
In the meantime, Teela was sent to San Diego for training.
“Boot camp was fine until the first morning,” he recalls. “It started with this bugle blowing to wake us up before dawn. It was quite a shock. I wondered what I’d gotten myself in for.”
Training lasted eight weeks, and upon completion, Teela was sent to Mare Island Naval Shipyard (25 miles Northeast of San Francisco) and assigned to Military Police duty. From there, Teela was sent back to Camp Elliot near San Diego for infantry training. Much of the training was related to amphibious assault, he said, and some of it involved climbing up nets, and disembarking with full combat gear.
“We ended up carrying up about 50 to 60 pounds,” he said. “We all carried two bandoleers of ammo, some extra clothes and food. When I see all the gear they carry today, I wonder how they can even walk around!”
After another six weeks of training, Teela was assigned to the Third Battalion, Sixth Marines, Second Marine Division, and he and 7,000 other troops were sent to New Caledonia. The Marines stayed briefly at a training camp. The next stop was Wellington, New Zealand.
The American strategy was in the Pacific was called “island hopping” whereby selected islands were secured by allied forces (usually the Marines). These islands would have some strategic value (like an airfield or anchorage) which helped to move the fight closer to Japan. Many islands were bypassed because of significant Japanese defenses. The idea was to shorten the distance to Japan and establish forward land bases for supply purposes.
The result was that amphibious assault forces had to attack heavily-fortified islands, and the defenders had plenty of time to prepare for an invasion.
Tarawa: Code-named “Helen,” Tarawa Atoll was a one-square-mile tract in the Gilbert Islands, located in the critical central Pacific region. In the Battle of Tarawa (Nov. 20-23, 1943) the heaviest fighting occurred on the Japanese-held island of Betio. Betio was less than three miles long, no broader than 800 yards at its widest point and contained no natural elevation higher than 10 feet above sea level. Everywhere there were pillboxes, nearly 500 of them, most fully covered by logs, steel plates and sand.
The 18,000 U.S. Marines sent to the tiny island were expected to easily secure it; however, problems quickly arose.
“The first group went in on AmTracs (Amphibian Tractors), and some of them got to shore,” Teela said. “But low tides prevented some U.S. landing crafts from clearing the coral reefs that ringed the island.”
Japanese coastal guns pounded the snagged vessels and desperate Marines gave up trying to free the boats and instead waded toward shore – hundreds of yards away – through chest-deep water, amidst heavy enemy fire.
“Our ship was about two miles out, and we couldn’t see anything,” Teela said. “But we could see explosions and the airplanes going in.”
Later in the day, Teela and fellow Marines got into a Higgins boat (a shallow-draft, landing craft with a ramp bow) and “went in circles.”
“We rode around in the dark, and when the sun came up they sent us in,” Teela recalled. “We didn’t meet any resistance, but we could hear the shells going overhead.”
When the boat started scraping coral, the ramp dropped and the Marines got out in the chest-deep water and headed toward shore.
“It was about a 15 to 30 minute hike,” Teela said. “We were under fire, but we went to the right of where the main action was going on and came ashore on a sandy beach. We didn’t take any casualties.”
Teela and several other Marines went along with a flamethrower team to attack a pillbox further down the beach, which housed a machine gun.
“The flames went through the slits, and we could hear the screams,” Teela said. “We shot them as they came out.”
Teela admits that his next recollections “are real hazy.”
“We were trying to make contact with the other Marines and we dug in,” he said. “Then, there was a counterattack.”
That night the Japanese troops made one final attack on the Sixth Marines — a suicide Banzai charge, according to USHistory.com. The Marines were able to hold off the attack for a while, but when they radioed for reinforcements, were told that they would not get them. The men were barely able to hold their positions against the charging waves of soldiers, the USHistory.com report added. A gruesome aspect of banzai counterattacks was that if the Japanese ran out of ammunition or failed to overrun the enemy, then they committed suicide
“We had pretty much stopped them by then (that morning) ,” Teela said. “Then we pulled back and they were hit by our air power.”
The Marines finally took the island after a bloody, 76-hour battle in which both sides suffered heavy casualties. The Marines sustained nearly 3,000 casualties, but of the 4,700 Japanese defenders, only 17 survived.
Teela’s unit was taken back to the ship, and their next job was to take the island of Apamama, that was part of the Beito chain. They boarded Higgins boats and assaulted the beach, he said, but there was no resistance because all the defenders had committed suicide.
“We were in one of those south seas island setting like you see in the movies,” Teela said. “We built a defensive area right next to a beautiful beach.”
The Marines were given a short time to rest up and relax after their ordeal on Tarawa. The natives were friendly and appreciative that the Japanese were gone, Teela said, but the Marines had orders not to fraternize.
“The Japs had mistreated the natives badly,” he said. “We all followed orders.”
Still, every Saturday night, there would be a big bonfire, and islanders would participate in their native dances. The Marines spent Christmas on the island, then departed for Hawaii for more training. After landing in Hilo, on the big island, the Marines were loaded on trucks and taken about 70 miles to the training base named “Camp Tarawa.”
“It was named to honor our men,” Teela said. “The Second Division had lost about 1,000 Marines at Tarawa, and had about 3,000 wounded.”
But there was not a lot of time for resting.
“We started training again, and we’d go out all day and do all sorts of exercises,” Teela said. “We trained a lot in the sugar cane fields, so we figured we were headed for some place in the jungle.”
After practicing amphibious landings on Maui, the Marine boarded ships and headed for Saipan in the Marianas Islands.
Saipan was another of those islands that couldn’t be bypassed and had to be taken. The assault on Saipan began on June 15, 1944. An armada of 535 ships, according to navysite.de, carrying 127,570 U. S. military personnel (two-thirds of whom were Marines of the 2nd and 4th Divisions) converged on the island.
“We headed for the island during the night, and when we woke up, there was the whole fleet,” Teela said. “The shelling was so intense, we figured there wouldn’t be anything left alive by the time we got there.”
Teela was in an AmTrac and headed toward the beach in the first assault wave. He doesn’t recall being particularly frightened at that point.
“It was a beautiful day, and I could see all those AmTracs headed for the beach,” he said. “I thought we were invincible.”
But then an accident came that most likely saved Teela’s life. His AmTrac hit a coral reef, simultaneously as a large breaker hit the vehicle. The AmTrac flipped over backward on the Marines, and they ended up trapped underneath.
“I was under the AmTrac and saw air bubbles rising, and thought I was going to die,” Teela said. “My thoughts were about my parents getting a telegram about me being dead. I dropped all my equipment and got out from underneath the AmTrac and stood on the reef.”
Several Marines drowned. A ship picked up Teela and took him back to the fleet, where he spent the night on a Navy vessel.
“All you ever see in combat is what is right in front of you,” Teela said. “I didn’t know what was going on shore.”
The next morning, another AmTrac took Teela to shore, where he rejoined his unit. The rest of the first wave was nearly decimated when they landed. By nightfall of the first day, the Second Marine Division had sustained 2,000 casualties, according to unit records.
“There had been a big Banzai charge the night before, and bodies were all over in front of the position,” Teela said. “I missed all that fight and all the fighting the first wave did.”
Teela’s unit was supposed to move forward up to a ridge that morning and take a defensive position.
“We got about three-quarters of the way up the hill when we were told they (the Japanese) were coming,” he said. “We were under fire the whole time so we dug in and waited.”
The attack never materialized, he said, and for the next few days, the Marines kept pushing forward.
On June 27, Teela was wounded in the face and hand. He was in a fighting position, and had piled rocks up in front. He was aiming his rifle, and looking over the sights, when some sort of explosion occurred directly in front of him.
“All I saw was the explosion,” he said. “There was a lot of debris, and it hit me in the trigger finger, in the face, and a chunk of coral hit me in the nose.” Teela was sent back to an aid station, where he received a shot of morphine and a cup of coffee, before being sent to a hospital. He spent three days in a hospital ward, then was released to go back to his unit.
The fighting continued until July 9, when organized resistance on Saipan ceased. The Marines got a 10-break, Teela said, then they were loaded up for the next assault. The taking of Siapan made Tinian, only 3.5 miles southwest, the next logical step in the Marianas.
Tinian control would put the home islands of Japan within striking distance of U.S. bombers. The 2nd and 4th Marine divisions landed on July 24, while the naval forces bombarded the island and artillery was fired across the strait from Saipan.
On July 31, the Japanese launched a suicide Banzai charge, according to the United States Marine Corps History Division, which resulted in many casualties. The American forces numbered 389 killed and 1,816 wounded. Japanese casualties were enormous, with 6,050 killed, 236 POWs and 2,500 evacuated.
“We advanced to the end of the island, and saw Japanese civilians committing suicide by jumping off cliffs,” Teela said. “The emperor told them if they committed suicide, they would go to heaven. They expected us to torture them to death.”
After Tinian was secured, Teela was sent back to Saipan, and transferred to a scout/sniper platoon. They “did a lot of shooting,” Teela said, in preparation for the invasion of Okinawa.
Once again, Teela and fellow Marines boarded a ship and headed for Okinawa. He witnessed Kamakazi attacks on ships, but was in the reserve and didn’t take part in the battle. Teela’s unit was sent back to Saipan, where they continued training.
“Our next big goal was the invasion of Japan,” he said. “We would be in the initial beach landing.”
Civilian and military casualties were expected to be extremely high, but the invasion never took place.
Teela was returning from a patrol one afternoon on Saipan when he heard about an atomic bomb being dropped on Hiroshima. Shortly after that, another atomic bomb was dropped on Nagasaki.
“The peace agreement was signed after that, and we were sent to Nagasaki for occupation duty,” he said. “We didn’t know anything about radiation. Maybe it contributed to my good health!”
Teela was honorably discharged from the Marines in November, 1946, and went back home to Montana. He worked for the Great Northern Railroad, from 1946 through 1955. He went to work for the Immigration Border Patrol, then transferred to the U.S. Customs Service. He retired in as head of the Customs Department at Los Angeles International Airport.
Teela married his first wife, Betty, in 1946, and the Teelas moved to La Pine in 1982. Betty died of cancer after 46 years of marriage. Teela married his wife Donna in 1994.
We can’t thank these WWII servicemembers enough, so let’s allow that respect to include ALL veterans of ALL American wars: Thanks, and God bless you!
I hadn’t dumped a canoe in years, so unexpectedly entering the water just above the John Day River’s Clarno rapids was quite a shock. I righted myself, pointed my feet downstream and tried to follow the course originally set for the canoe.
by Leon Pantenburg
The Central Oregon rapids last about three-quarters of a mile, and we’d managed to hit a rock cross-ways right at the head. My wife, Debbie, paddling in front, was also thrown out of the canoe. Her head bobbed above the rapids as she navigated the whitewater. Several minutes later, I pulled myself out in the slack waters of an eddy. From downriver, Debbie waved to show she was OK.
Picking my way over the rocks toward her, I did a mental inventory of my survival tools. Everything we had, all of our fishing, camping and survival gear, was headed downstream toward the Columbia River. It was a hot day, with no danger of hypothermia, and the other members of our float party were at the scene.
Neither of us was injured, and it was not a survival situation. But if we had been alone, here’s the survival tools we had left: I didn’t lose my hat, glasses or the GPS in my pocket.
But the Mora knife was gone from its sheath on my belt, and the butane lighter in my left front pants pocket had disappeared. A whistle was attached to my life jacket. I had charcloth in a plastic bag, firestarter and my key ring survival gear, except for the flashlight, still worked. Debbie had a whistle, too, but her survival gear was somewhere downstream. But even soaking wet, we could have started a fire to warm up and signal for help.
You could get dumped out of a canoe, thrown off a horse that runs away or be in a shopping mall or hotel when there is a power failure. In these cases, all you’ll have is a survival mindset and the tools in your pockets or on your person. But a little planning can help a lot if you make some basic survival tools part of your wardrobe.
This is what I carry on a daily basis: These items are on a separate key ring that clips to my car keys or belt loop.
- LED flashlight: This is one of the most-used items. A flashlight could be what gets you out of a dark, fourth floor hotel room that is filling with smoke! It may also require leadership training before using. In any dark emergency situation, the person with the flashlight automatically becomes the leader! Make sure you get an LED light with an on-off switch. Otherwise, you’ll get really tired of pinching the light to make it work.
- Nail clipper: Until you have torn a finger or toenail on a camping trip, with no way to trim it, you can’t imagine how important a clipper is. In a pinch, it works as a tweezers to pull out splinters.
- Whistle: A necessary signaling device, since you can only yell until your voice gives out. A whistle can be heard at a great distance, with less energy expended than shouting for help. The universal signal for distress is a series of three, equally-spaced blasts.
- Magnesium or ferro rod: In this case, a Boy Scout Hot-Spark firestarter is the chosen tool. It can be used with cotton balls and petroleum jelly, or Chapstick, or Purell hand cleaner, to start a fire.
- Swiss Army Classic model knife: This knife’s capabilities are much bigger than its size! A classic has a knife blade, scissors, screwdriver blade, tweezers and toothpick. Most important, it can be carried with you at all times.
In my left hip pocket:
- Bandanna or 100% cotton handkerchief: This item can do a hundred different tasks, including wiping your nose! Other common sense uses include shredding as tinder for the magnesium stick; signaling, and improvising a head covering or sun shade. I always carry at least one, and prefer to have several along.
In my right hip pocket is my wallet with the usual driver’s license, credit cards etc. These survival items are designed to fit in the credit card holders:
- Charcloth: If you can catch a spark, from any source, on a piece of charcloth, then you should know how to blow that spark into an ember, and then a fire. Charcloth should be carried in a waterproof plastic bag.
- Waxed firestarter: A credit card sized piece of this material, also carried in a waterproof plastic bag, will supply several minutes of flame when lighted with a match or some flame. The firestarter supplies that link between ignition and getting tinder and small sticks to burn.
- Signal mirror: I made this mirror out of a piece of flexible mirror material (available at most auto repair stores), and purposefully sized it to fit a credit card holder. In addition to signaling, the mirror can be invaluable for locating something in your eye or directing light into a hard-to-see area. The plastic covering on the mirror face is left on for protection. Directions for use are on the back.
In my left front pocket:
- Butane lighter: I don’t smoke but always carry a small lighter. It’s easy to “Flick your Bic” to light a fire, or make a signal at night, especially if you’re injured. (You can also use it to show your age at a concert!) Wrap it with a couple feet of duct tape, and you have added another survival tool.
- Chapstick: Get the kind with sun protection, and you can use it for lip, face, ear and skin protection. Chapstick works as a firestarter when combined correctly with a shredded cotton bandanna.
In the right front pocket:
- Hand cleaner: Keeping your hands clean may keep you from getting sick later. Purell liquid handcleaner also works well as a firestarter with the shredded bandanna.
In my shirt or jacket pocket:
- Notebook and pen or pencil: You may need to write down map or GPS coordinates, phone numbers or leave directions and you’ll need something to write on. Don’t forget to leave a note telling someone where you went.
These items may help you get by in an emergency situation, but don’t rely entirely on them if possible. Always take your Ten Essentials on any outing, and know how to use them.
by Leon Pantenburg
I remember when I got my first Mini-Mag flashlight, some 25 or so years ago. It was a major technological advance for my backpacking and big game hunting activities.
Before that, there were a series of expensive, not particularly effective lights. And they were heavy. One was powered by D batteries and it was a ral boat anchor. Because they were heavy and bulky, there was always the temptation to leave them behind.
But the Mini Mag was compact, lightweight and powered by AA batteries. I used that light for the next 10 years or so, and the Mini Mag served heroically. It was in my hand on many hikes out of the mountains after dark after a long day of elk hunting. It lighted the way to and from the river on fishing trips. Most memorable is the time I field dressed a deer with it clenched in my teeth like a cigar. Drooling is not cool.
I eventually went to headlamps and have never looked back. But I was interested in the 5.11 XBT A2. This is the same company that distributes my favorite 511 pants.
Here’s the specs of the XBT A2:
- Aerospace grade aluminum
- 6.188″ long, 1″ diameter head, .938″ diameter body
- Weight with batteries: 5 oz.
- Cree® XPEB LED
- Regulated circuit for maximum output
- Limited Lifetime Warranty
- 256 lumen output
- 2.5 hour run time
- 119 meter beam distance
- Momentary and steady-on modes
- Tailcap switch
- Water- and impact-resistant construction
Like most of my lighting gear tests, the XBT is used on my nightly dog walks. This time of year, that means in the dark. The dog and I are out for about 20 minutes, twice a day, and that gives a lot of day-to-day use experience.
Here’s the good news:
Compact and easy to carry: I can leave the XBT in my coat pocket and basically forget it’s there. If it’s needed, I have the light.
Rugged: The light feels bulletproof, without being overly heavy and bulky. It won’t break if it gets dropped and it looks like it will take a lot of hard use and abuse.
Pocket clip: This is a big deal if you use this light at work. My Dad was a carpenter at the Iowa State University residence halls. He carried several tools every day including his KeySafe and a Mini Mag in his left breast pocket. He relied on the light several times a day. Anybody who uses a light frequently needs to have it close to hand, and this clip is one way to do that.
Batteries: AAs are available virtually anywhere. A plus for me is that the XBT and my GPS use the same batteries, so I don’t have to carry different sizes.
Water resistant: I don’t need a SCUBA light, but I do need a deer hunting light that won’t die if it is dropped into the creek. The XBT will do just fine.
Not so hot on:
No variable switch: This is going to be an attraction to some users. The light is either full on or off. You either get the 245 lumens of light or nothing. Personally, I like variable levels, since I like to read in my tent and the full beam is too brilliant. Likewise, if I’m following a clear trail in the dark, I don’t need the full brilliance. In fact, the dimmer lights don’t kill your night vision as much as the high beam will. I would also want the variable settings because they don’t require as much power.
It’s not a headlamp: I really like headlamps for hands-free use. But if you like this light and also want a headlamp, you can find elastic headbands that fit the light and convert it to no-hands use.
Somestimes you may prefer a hand-held light. For following a blood trail after dark or looking for a landing on the river, you may need to constantly move the light around. Your choice.
Do you need an XBT A2?
You need a good, rugged light when you get off the pavement. Within the perameters we’ve discussed here, the XBT is an excellent choice, and it will probably last you for a long time.
That once in a lifetime photo of your trophy didn’t quite turn out like you planned? Here are some tips to help capture that elusive moment.
by Leon Pantenburg
I’ve made my living as a newsguy for most of my career, and much of the time was spent behind a camera. My Journalism degree has a photojournalism emphasis and I carry a quality point-and-shoot camera on a daily basis, along with a notebook and pen. Old habits die hard.
In my current day job as an instructor/mentor of a community college student newspaper, I teach all aspects of journalism related to newspaper publication and social media promotion. That includes photography.
So quality photos are important to me – and to you – when it comes to getting that photo of your trophy harvest.
Here’s a couple tips before we get started:
- Get a quality compact, waterproof and shockproof point-and-shoot camera and carry it with you whenever you go out. Murphy is just waiting for you to leave the camera in camp so you won’t have a way to record your harvest. An easy-to-carry camera means you’ll take it along.
- Take along a lightweight tripod. The camera’s self-timer lets you take photos of yourself and the game animal but there has to be a way to hold the camera. Also, in low light settings the tripod can hold the camera steady.
- Make sure the battery is charged, and the card has lots of room on it.
- Take lots and lots of photos. Tell a story with your images. Sure, the harvest is important, but take some other photos that tell us more. This can include pictures of the camp, the skinning process, scenic areas you hunted in, what you wore etc. Everybody loves looking at photos.
Here are ten tips for better hunting photography:
Read the manual first : Elementary, but good advice. How often do people having problems with electronic gear that could have been solved by checking out the manual?
Way too often.
Good taste: Make sure your photo is not tacky, and doesn’t make you look like a fool. Don’t put a beer in the dead bear’s paw, a hat on the elk’s head or show a lot of drinking or partying going on. The antis are looking for anything they can find to make hunters look like jerks. Don’t help them by posting such photos on Facebook.
Not enough context: I want to see some of the background, and preferably where the animal was downed. A mule deer harvested in the Oregon high desert is night-and-day different from a whitetail killed in a southern swamp. We like to see the difference. Closeup is nice, but show us what the place looked like.
Not natural: I know how to use Photoshop and all sorts of editing software, but I don’t like it for photos that are essentially documentation. If the light was foggy and muddy, that shows the hunting conditions. Likewise, it takes an expert to make a photoshopped image look like it wasn’t messed with.
Bad lighting: The best hunting times – dawn and dusk – are the worst photography times. Make sure your camera has flash capacity, and don’t forget to use it. Also, know how to use the ISO setting to compensate for bad light.
Basically, the higher the ISO number, the faster the camera can shoot and the better it can capture low light images. On the other hand, that bright scenic should have a lower ISO for better color saturation and sharpness. Know the difference, and how to set your camera.
Camera shake: One of the most common reasons for fuzzy photos in low light is that the shutter speed was too slow. Ways to boost shutter speed include opening the aperture wider, boosting the ISO number higher and using a tripod. Most of the time, the automatic setting will work just fine, but in low light, be careful. (See “Read the manual first” above.)
Avoid distracting background: Bloody paper towels after field dressing, trash etc. take away from the focal point of the shot. We probably don’t need to see the gut pile. Also be aware of branches growing out of heads, or other objects that appear to be in the background, but might take prominence.
Show respect: Nothing detracts from a photo, IMHO, than evidence that the hunter doesn’t respect the animal. Position and pose the animal in as natural a setting as possible. One of my pet peeves is the deer with the tongue hanging out of the side of its mouth. Tuck the tongue back in the mouth.
Be safe: Make sure the firearm is unloaded before you take any photos. It’s easy to get excited and possibly forget your safe gun handling skills. Make sure it doesn’t look like you’re pointing the firearm at yourself or another hunter.
Practice: Everything gets better when you practice it. Take along the camera and take photos for fun under challenging situations. It will pay off later.
Hunting is expensive, in time and money. Take a little extra time to set up and take quality photos, and you’ll have memories to enjoy for years to come.
by Leon Pantenburg
I bought this knife to review. At the time of publication, Kellem Knives had no sponsorship relationship with Survivalcommonsense.com.
I’m a sucker for old time knife designs, especially when they are re-created with modern materials. IMO, this makes for a time-tested, utility design that will do the job.
I particularly like the Scandinavian Puukko design, so that’s why I got a Kellam Hawk.
The puukko is a Finnish knife, and the name lends itself to the Finnish word “puukotta,” which means “to stab/knife.” The prefix, “puu” means “wood” in Finnish. The design of the puukko is attributed to the indigenous Sami people, who created several knives to use for day to day tasks; the puukko was the smaller option, used to skin fish or animals.
“Although historical records vary, the puukko dates back about 1000 years. Both men and women carried (and carry) puukkos, although the sizes change depending on the person, as the puukko handle is meant to fit the hand size of the user. (From: EDC History: Pukko – A simple knife with a rich history.)
The old design is getting some attention from modern knifemakers. I recently reviewed the Battle Horse Knives Feather Stick, another knife with the Puukko design, and it worked out really well.
Here’s the Hawk’s specs:
- Blade: 3″ Carbon Steel
- Handle: 4.5″ Stained Curly Birch
- Full Tang construction
- Dangler-style leather sheath
- Total Length: 7.5″
Grind: Convex is my all-time, go-to favorite grind, but scandi is a close second or third. For a beginner, it is the easiest to learn to sharpen on. The bevel is sharpening guide – all you do is lay it flat on a whetstone and hone away.
The scandi is also a great woodworking grind, and a practical choice for someone looking for a bushcraft knife.
Handle: I have big hands – size large gloves – and many otherwise excellent knives don’t work for me because the handle is too short. I don’t like two or three finger grips. IMO, they don’t give a secure grip for hard work, and I’m concerned they might twist in my hand.
The 4.5-inch handle fits my hand really, really well. It is made of dyed curly birch, a common wood in Russia and Scandinavia, with nice figure. The wood makes a handle that doesn’t transfer heat or cold. This is a consideration for a knife that will be used in Finland’s frigid winter.
The diameter is large, which gives me a good, solid grip. When wet or slimy from cleaning fish, or bloody from butchering, the handle seems to get “grippier.”
A comfortable, safe handle is a really important aspect of a user knife. Pretty doesn’t cut it (pun intended) when there are lengthy cutting tasks to be done.
Steel: The high carbon steel holds a wicked edge. I don’t know exactly what it is, but the Hawk’s steel held up nicely to normal cutting and bushcraft tasks.
Traditionally, Blade materials can vary from the three-layer approach, which combines strong and flexible steels, to composite designs. Most are made with Finnish steel, Ovako 100Cr6, which is equivalent to U.S 52100 bearing steel, according to Nordic knife blog Nordiska Knivar.
Spine: I would like the spine to be ground at a 90-degree angle, like an ice skate, so it could be used for processing tinder or scraping a ferro rod. It isn’t. But a few passes on a grinder could fix that.
Sheath: The dangler-style, form-fitted leather sheath holds the knife securely. Almost too securely. It requires a slight twist to loosen the Hawk. It’s a consideration – the knife won’t fall out, but it’s a two-hand job to remove it. This might be a deal-breaker for some users.
I find this annoying, but you can get used to the tight sheath.
Full tang construction with a brass bolster. I prefer a full tang on any rigid blade knife, even though I’ve never needed that extra strength. In fact, one of my favorite user knives, the Mora 840 Companion, has a plastic handle and a three-quarter tang.
For the strongest knife available, though, get a full tang.
Hand made in Finland.
In actual use, the Hawk lives up to the Puukko’s user reputation. It went along on the Fremont District’s Webelos Woods, a Boy Scout outing, recently. It was used to whittle sticks and do the assorted tasks associated with camping.
On the way home, on an isolated section of highway, I saw a fast-moving car hit a deer up ahead of me. The front end of the vehicle was demolished, and the hood popped. The air bag deployed and the radiator was steaming.
After checking out the driver and passenger for injuries, (they were shaken, but fine) the driver and I followed the injured buck. It had dragged itself across the road and was severely injured.
It was still alive, with two broken legs, probable internal injuries and it was in agonizing pain. We called 911. Rather than wait a possible half-hour for the Oregon State Police to arrive, we ended the deer’s suffering with the only tool available – the Kellam Hawk.
The knife worked quickly and humanely for the sad, but necessary task.
That’s the mark of a good knife. It gets the job done.
Do you need a Hawk?
Everybody needs a good knife. The Hawk is based on a proven design, with quality materials. The Hawk has proven to be a very useful tool, and one that can be used in a variety of situations, from slicing a bagel at work, to hunting and fishing.
The knife retails for $74.95, and that’s a steal for a handmade knife. If you’re looking for a good-looking user, that you can work hard and pass down to your grandchildren, the Hawk is a really good choice.
One of the best ways to sharpen a convex grind knife is with a leather strop and abrasive emulsions. Here’s how to clean the strop.
by Leon Pantenburg
I thought I knew how to sharpen a knife. After all, I’d been doing it successfully since I was a kid. I regularly sharpen all the knives in my hunting camp, and have been teaching sharpening to Boy Scouts for years.
Then I got a convex grind knife. I could still sharpen it with a stone, steel and strop, but heard there was a better way.
I found that in this series of videos from Kniveshipfree.com (KSF is a Survivalcommonsense.com sponsor.) I watched the videos, did what they said, and it opened up a whole new world, and set a new standard for sharpness.
My emulsion sticks are from KSF, so I don’t know what the other standards are. I did get some similar sticks from Harbor Freight that work just fine. The black appears to be about 3,000 grit, and the green is about 3,500 to 4,000 grit.
I suppose you could go to an auto parts store and get some abrasives used for grinding valves. They should work, but I don’t know what the variances would be.
The basic idea is to use a black (coarse) emulsion on the strop until you get a shaving-sharp edge. Then you polish with the finer green. Even finer emulsions can follow, depending on how obsessive-compulsive you are about knife edges. If you’re like me, that means taking it to an insanely-wicked-sharp edge.
Nobody needs to whittle paper from phone book pages, but it is fun to show off with!
Truthfully, I get all the working edge I need with the black emulsion and a plain leather stropping. The wicked edges don’t last long under hard use. For butchering or wood carving, that standard of edge is overkill and takes too much time to maintain.
At some point, metal residue will build up on the strop, and that will affect how well it sharpens. I discovered these cleaning techniques on Facebook, and thought I’d pass them on. All you need is a Pink Eraser™ or some 320 grit wet-dry sandpaper.
Cutlery goes through fads and fashion cycles just like anything else. Here are a few that need to fade into the sunset.
by Leon Pantenburg
Everybody has opinions. These are mine from working with knives for many years. I’ve seen fads come and go, and here are five (mostly related to rigid blade knives) that seem to be going strong right now.
Thick blades: As best I can tell, thick blades – say over 1/8-inch – are a recent innovation. Check out historic fighting knives in museums, and you’ll find that for the most part they are pretty thin. There’s a reason for that – most of the knives used for fighting on the frontier, or in earlier times were utility knives of some sort.
Steel was expensive, and a settler, trapper or longhunter might only have one knife. It would be handmade to his specifications by the local blacksmith, and the knife owner would get something that worked for the most tasks.
Since the knife might be called upon to butcher game, cut vegetables, whittle sticks, fight with etc. the most cost effective and useful thickness would be chosen.
Check out the original mountain man and trade knives from the 1830s – thin was in. And the colonists in the mid-to-late 1700s – they were called “Long knives” because of the long blades they carried. The best representation of these tried-and-true designs is in your kitchen knife rack.
IMO, the idea of thick blades goes back to World War II when quality steel was at a premium. In 1942, the Ka-Bar was adopted by the Marines Corps, and many other service branches. This iconic blade was thick for extra strength because good steel was scarce and needed for other things.
With today’s super steels, there is no particular need for a thick blade. If you anticipate doing a lot of prying or twisting with the blade, get a crowbar.
Gut hooks: A really quick way to ruin a good knife design, IMHO, is to add a guthook. I’m not sure exactly where this idea came from, but a guthook is one of the most specialized grinds imaginable.
Originally, I guess, the idea was to use the hook to make a specialized cut down the belly of a downed big game animal without piercing the entrails.
Other than that, there is no reason for that grind. One cut per big game animal is not enough reason to permanently screw up a blade.
And don’t overlook this – the hook is a dangerous accessory that might pierce a hand or clothing or get hung up on a sheath. And field dress a bear or late season elk – you’ll find that the hook gets easily jammed with hair.
Sharpening that guthook takes skill and a specialized file you might not have along in the backcountry. If you must have a gut hook knife, get a dedicated one for about $20.
Serrated edges: The best way to screw up the most useful carving part of a blade is to get one with about an inch of serrations right next to the hilt.
The serrated portion might be handy if you’re cutting a lot of zipties or anticipate cutting seatbelts, like an EMT might need to do. In those cases, you need a specialized first responder knife, with a blunt tip and full serrations on the blade.
The only serrated knife I currently own is the bread knife in the kitchen. It works well for cutting bread, and that’s all it’s ever used for.
Choils: I love historic cutlery, and I’m the type who hunkers down next to a display case to study the details. I have never seen a choil on a historic knife, and don’t see the need for one. Like serrations, the choil takes the most useful carving section of the blade out of commission.
Proponents claim a choil allows the user to “choke up” on the blade to do fine carving or other tasks best suited to a smaller blade.
So let’s think about this: I’m going to “choke up” on this sharp blade to do fine carving or something. I’m supposed to put my trigger finger next to a razor-sharp edge, negating the protective hilt and handle.
In decades of small game, deer and elk hunting, I’ve never choked up on a blade to gut or skin an animal. I’ve also never needed a choil for wood carving or cleaning fish. Or anything.
I got an ESEE-3 a couple years ago to see if I had maybe been missing out, and to try using a choil before condemning them outright. Didn’t work. I wish the ESEE-3 didn’t have the choil at all.
A better choice than a choil would be to get a knife suited for the task, with a well-designed handle.
Saw blade spines: These never work. For a saw to cut, the tips of the teeth have to be offset from each other, and protruding from the side of the blade surface. Otherwise, teeth will clog up with saw or bone dust and have to be cleaned about every couple strokes. This also means the teeth will cut into the sheath every time the blade is pulled out or put back in.
In addition, a three-to-four inch saw surface will have a stroke of about and inch or two. It will wear out the user and be really ineffective.
Both saw teeth and a gut hook make the spine of the knife dangerous, and keep you from using it to process tinder or scrape ferro rods.
Again, rather than screw up your knife, get a folding saw and take that along.
Black blades: So the idea behind a black “tacticool” blade is that no glimmer of light will reflect off a polished surface to give the user away. This presumes, I guess, that said knife will be used for fighting. (Incidentally, stats show the rarest form of modern combat is knife fighting. It usually means the combatant has run out of ammo.)
And a knife has to have a black blade to look badass at the militia meeting, right?
The first thing I did to my Cold Steel SRK some 25 years ago was to take that black paint off the blade. While the coating may offer some protection from rust, proper maintenance offers complete protection. The coating inevitably wears off, it affects the slicing ability and looks awful.
IMHO, a more likely scenario is you will drop the knife and have trouble locating it. If you’re in mud or the dark, this worsens the situation.
If you’re considering investing in a knife, think first about what you might be using it for. Consider the handle, and what it’s made of; the quality of the steel, the grind, blade length and the point configuration. Don’t forget to consider spine configurations. It should have a sturdy sheath.
Once you’ve considered these aspects, you are ready to choose a piece of cutlery. Then you can decide how fashionable your knife needs to be!
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Looking for a good, usable hatchet? Check out this Huron.
by Leon Pantenburg
BARCO industries supplied the product used in this review. I was not paid to write this, and at the time of publication, there is no sponsorship relationship between the company and Survivalcommonsense.com.
“A woodsman should carry a hatchet, and he should be as critical in selecting it as in buying a gun. The notion that a heavy hunting knife can do the work of a hatchet is a delusion. When it comes to cleaving carcasses, chopping kindling, blazing thick-barked trees, driving tent pegs or trap stakes, and keeping up a bivouac fire, the knife never was made that will compare with a good tomahawk. The common hatchets of the hardware stores are unfit for a woodsman’s use. They have broad blades with beveled edge, and they are generally made of poor, brittle stuff. A camper’s hatchet should have the edge and temper of a good axe. It must be light enough to carry in one’s knapsack, yet it should bite deep in timber.” – Horace Kephart, from Camping and Woodcraft, 1917
I moved to Mississippi in the early 1980s, to a house that was 90-percent heated with wood. I helped cut several cords of firewood every fall, and loved it. I learned to fell trees, use a chainsaw and split wood. We used axes and hatchets, and knowing how to sharpen them was part of the skill set. Like anything, having the right tools, properly maintained, made all the difference.
But I’m lukewarm on recommending that anyone get an axe or hatchet.
The hatchet, or hand axe, has been around since somebody tied a rock to a stick and made a weapon. The hand axe was popular with the Vikings and other fighters in the Middle Ages, because it was a fearsome weapon, and cheaper to make than a sword. In North America, the natives carried tomahawks as weapons.
Today, I don’t carry a hatchet much, but I have several that are used as needed. I carry my pipe tomahawk the most, and that is generally when I’m hunting with a blackpowder rifle. It’s more for nostalgia than anything else.
My most recent acquisition is a Huron 13-inch Half Hatchet. Forged in the USA by BARCO Industries, each hatchet gets profiled, sharpened and finished in Michigan. The handle on the Huron is flame-treated, then finished with Linseed Oil and the head is outfit with a handmade, holster-style sheath.
This 13″ American hickory handled half hatchet features a generous cutting edge and a solid smooth-faced hammer. Forged stateside by BARCO Industries, each hatchet gets profiled, sharpened and finished in Michigan. The handle on the Huron is flame-treated, then finished with pure Linseed Oil and the head is outfitted with a handmade, holster-style sheath.
- Head Type: 1.25 lbs Half Hatchet pattern pattern
- Head Material: 1060-1078 grade alloy steel
- Shaping Process: Open faced die drop forged
- Bit (Edge): Tempered to final hardness of Rc 50
- Handle Material: American Hickory; Grade A
- Hang: Wood wedge with juxtaposed steel wedge
- Overall Weight: 2 lbs.
- Sheath Material: 100% top grade leather, Antique Brass hardware
Here’s the good stuff:
Steel: A softer steel is the best choice in a hatchet head. A soft steel will bend, rather than chip, when it hits something hard. It is also easier to sharpen, and maintain a good edge. While the Huron could be honed to shaving sharpness, that edge wouldn’t last long when chopping wood. For chopping and splitting firewood, the Huron holds an edge nicely, and is easily re-sharpened.
The 1060 carbon steel in the head, with a RC of 50, is a good hardness for a hatchet. It is hard enough to hold and edge, but soft enough that the steel will fold over, rather than chip, if a knot or hard piece is hit.
Head style: Among my hatchet collection is a modern Estwing double-bitted, a Plumb carpenter’s axe, an Estwing Sportsman and a custom, handmade pipe tomahawk that matches my flintlock rifle. I also have a full-sized axe that sees use in camp.
My most-carried hatchet is the pipe tomahawk, but the most useful pattern is the half-hatchet pattern. The hammer side will be the most used part of the hatchet, because it will be used for driving tent stakes, pounding on things and a multitude of hammer tasks.
Handle: “In making a new axe-helve, do not bother to make a crooked one like the store pattern. Thousands of expert axe men use, from preference, straight handles in their axes,” – Horace Kephart.
I haven’t used a hatchet as much as I’ve used a 22-ounce framing hammer. Roughly of the same weight as the Huron, I’ve swung a hammer for hours at a time while roofing and putting on siding. (One reason I have large hands!) A straight handle works best for me, as far as being able to control the head. Like anything, get used to the weight and balance, and real accuracy soon developes.
It’s the same concept with a hatchet. A hatchet cuts with momentum and velocity, and you will develop efficiency through use.
Weight: At two pounds, the hatchet is not so heavy as to be overly burdensome. It is in the same ballpark as a heavy duty machete or parang. In jungle or swamp, the long knife may prove to be more useful. In hardwood, deciduous timber, the hatchet will prove to be more useful.
Edge: The grind on the blade appears to be convex. This is a good profile for a chopper, and the the extra steel behind the edge means it will be strong.
Not so hot on:
Leon mounts the soapbox: The Boy scouts have banned hatchets, and some troops and camps ban sheath knives. Ostentatiously, it is because the tools are presumed to be dangerous. Well, ANY cutting tool is dangerous in the hands of an untrained person.
The scouts make a big deal about teaching knife and axe safety, and every scout must carry a Totin’ Chip before carrying any piece of cutlery. If the scouts can’t teach cutting tool safety, to the point where certain categories of tools must be deemed unsafe, then what is wrong with the program? (Leon’s rant is over).
Do you need a Huron hatchet?
Well, I think to the untrained user a hatchet or axe is dangerous. Don’t buy one to add to your camping gear, and never practice with it.
A hatchet or axe requires velocity to chop and cut, and one can cause serious injury if it ricochets off the wood. A better choice, for the casual user, would be to get a good saw, and use that for wood processing.
If you know what you’re doing, a hatchet and/or axe can be a valuable survival tool. So if you decide to go that route, get a good one.
The Huron is a quality tool, and at about $149, it is priced competitively with other high quality hatchets. The Huron will prove to be an investment, and properly cared for, it can be handed down to your grandchildren.
A knife named “Lil Whitetail Hunter” is bound to be a hunting knife. Here’s what I found out about this Cross Knives blade.
by Leon Pantenburg
Teddy had dropped a three-by-four mule deer, the young hunter’s first. The 15-year-old made a fine shot, with his bullet taking out both lungs and part of the spine. The buck died almost instantaneously.
We were hunting along the John Day River in Oregon’s high desert, and Teddy and his Dad had been blanked the previous two years. I got to go along on the hunt – every real hunting party needs an “old timer” along to dispense wisdom or something, and in general, hang around the campfire. Occasionally, we earn our keep.
Despite having watched various Youtube how-tos, Teddy didn’t know where to start when it came to field dressing the buck.
“I’ll gut it, and you watch and learn,” I commented, and daubed his cheek with blood. “I going to kill another buck this afternoon, and you get to take care the next one.” I got to work with the Cross Knives Lil Whitetail Hunter.
Around this time of year, as deer seasons start to open around the country, the new deer hunting knives come on the market. But some of us already know what we want.
Cross Knives are handmade by Pete Winkler, the same craftsman who re-handles knives for Bark River Knives. Handle materials vary, and feature different selections of bone, wood, and synthetic materials. They’re pretty. But they’re made to be used, and these knives are as functional as they are good looking.
- Model Name: Lil Whitetail Hunter
- Handle Material: Stabilized mesquite
- Overall Length: 8.27 (210mm)
- Blade Length: 3.63 (92mm)
- Blade Thickness: 0.15 (3.6mm)
- Weight: 5.6oz.
- Blade Steel: A2 Tool Steel
- Made in USA
High-quality leather sheath included
Here’s what I liked:
Handle: Mine is in stabilized mesquite – it’s a good-looking package. The handle is a good size for my large hands, and it never got slippery, even though my hands and forearms were bloodied from gutting the animal. I was able to split the ribcage with the blade pretty easily, because I could hold it so well. Needless to say, Winkler’s knives are gorgeous. They’re almost too pretty to use. Some people might be tempted to keep this knife in a display and never use it. Some people. Not me.
Steel: A2 is one of my favorites. I find it to have excellent edge-holding ability, and it is easy to sharpen in the field. In fact, I never needed to touch up the blade, even after gutting the buck, splitting the ribcage and skinning. You can take along a sharpener or strop, but you probably won’t need it.
Sheath: A beautiful leather sheath comes with the knife, and it secures the blade safely and well.
Point: I’d like the point better if it had more of a drop. As it is, I would prefer less of an upswept point. Again, that’s just my preference – the point makes for a better belly on the blade for skinning. The design was really good for skinning around the front legs and neck, and probably worked better than a drop point may have. You make your choices.
Grind: Convex is my favorite grind because the edge is so strong and lasts so long. The whitetail has a full profile convex, and it’s easy to maintain the edge. Once you learn how to use a strop, the procedure is pretty straight forward.
Blade length: At four inches, the blade is about right for a hunting knife. I personally prefer a little longer blade, say about five inches. This is strictly a matter of personal choice – veteran elk hunters I hunt with use everything from a three-inch folder to an eight-inch Bowie.
Other ticky stuff:
After using the Whitetail hard, I notices the edge had rolled and there was some very minor chipping on the belly of the blade. It had been used to disjoint the hips and quarter the carcass, cut off the legs and cut the deer in half. The spinal column was cut twice, and the edge had to go through six rib bones. Then it was used for a lot of skinning. That’s some serious field use, and the blade held up extremely well.
The edge was still very usable, but I haven’t noticed this on other knives I use with A2 steel. It took a few swipes on my grandpa’s butchering steel to dress up the edge, then it was stropped on a leather strop with Bark River black compound. The edge was soon back to hair-popping sharp.
FYI – I find stropping the blade on a leather strop with black compound, followed by a few strokes on a plain leather strop, makes the best edge for my needs. While it’s fun to shave hair and whittle paper, that edge is not going to last all that long in actual use. My experience is that you can generally get as much edge as you need with the black compound.
All in all, there was basically nothing I could find wrong with the Whitetail, and there was a whole lot that was right.
The Whitetail is worth looking at if you’re doing a lot of whitetail hunting, and it will do just fine on elk or bigger western deer. In addition to being a very useful knife, it is also very good looking.
When it comes to the Cross Knives Lil Whitetail, what’s not to like?
For some of our wounded warriors, the hardest battle begins when they get home. This knife is designed to help.
by Leon Pantenburg
I love L.T. Wright knives – I’ve tested several and they’ve always been way above par. My Genesis is my go-to bushcraft knife, and the Next Gen is another well-used tested performer. The whole line is bulletproof and ready to go to work.
But the company outdid themselves when they designed and produced the HERO (Helping Everyone Reach the Outdoors).
“All too often our veterans and public safety professionals get hurt in the line of duty and L.T Wright want to do something for those men and women that allows them to return to the outdoors after an injury or loss of a limb.” – from the company website.
A proven knife design was adapted to provide a way for someone with missing fingers or limited grip to safely use a knife, the company claims. L.T Wright added a hook near the blade that accepts an elastic lanyard that will assist the user in holding on to the knife.
The HERO was featured on the cover of the December 2015 Blade magazine.
I ordered one to check it out. It has been used for various bushcrafting activities and worked quite well.
- Total Length: 8″
- Blade Length: 3.5″
- Blade Thickness: 1/8″
- Handle Material: Black Resitin – Matte
- Blade-Steel: D-2 Tool Steel Steel
- Made in USA
Out of the box, the knife was shaving-sharp, and showed the superb quality I expect from L.T. Wright.
Here’s the good stuff:
Blade thickness is 1/8-inch and that’s a good choice for an overall knife. The D-2 steel is tough and combined with the thickness, the blade should be virtually unbreakable. (Don’t go trashing your HERO blade and sending me a photo. Anything can be broken if someone tries hard enough!) I like e thinner blades, but that is strictly personal preference, based on how I use knives.
Blade length: Different tasks require a variety of lengths. IMHO, the three-to-four-inch blade is the do-it-all length. It is short enough to be handy, but long enough to do just about anything.
Steel: The D2 tool steel is tough and holds an edge well. It is easy to sharpen, and should not get stained badly over regular use. Clean your knife after using it, and there will be no problems.
Handle: The design here is incredible. Designed so it can be readily grasped, the handle is easy to hold, and big enough to be safe, The elastic lanyard can be hooked around the back of the hand to secure the handle to the hand.
Point: The narrow spear point is an excellent choice for a utility knife. It would be my first choice for a bushcrafter, or a knife that might be called upon to do everything.
Sheath: A sturdy leather dangler sheath makes for easy, comfortable and safe carry.
I took the HERO on an Oregon mule deer hunt the first weekend in October, and it was used for gutting and skinning on a nice buck.
The handle never got slippery, even though it got really bloody. The design of the handle kept it from slipping in my hand. The knife was handy.The HERO is not designed to be a hunting knife but it worked well.[/caption
The ticky other stuff: This knife is designed for bushcraft, and as such, is not going to make the best hunting knife. There is not enough belly behind the point to make the HERO a superior skinning knife, and I want more of a drop point for gutting a big game animal.
The Scandi grind is good for woodworking and such, but is not the best choice for a knife that will be used for slicing. IMO, a convex grind is the best overall grind.
Do you need a HERO?
It’s a great knife. I like it a lot. But I have a lot of other, more specialized blades that work better, for me, on different tasks. I use the best knife for the job.
But the HERO could be the best choice for the person who had problems holding a knife, and who needs a good, overall-use knife. The HERO could be the difference, for that person, of being able to use a knife outdoors or not.
And that’s the idea behind the HERO – to provide a tool that can help overcome some physical challenges. In some instances, the HERO may be the very best knife for the job.
Every hunter will probably come across someone who questions, or possibly attacks, the activity of hunting. Here’s how to answer.
by Leon Pantenburg
Start by being nice and respectful: The person with the questions may be honestly seeking info and might be considering joining our ranks.
All the uniformed person might know is that you (a hunter) intend to hunt and kill an animal and eat it. And that sounds like something a Neanderthal would do.
So what’s the allure? Why bother? Isn’t hunting inhumane? What’s wrong with people who kill things to have a good time? How can you be so heartless? And it goes on…
Here’s some common questions and my responses. Think what yours might be…
Why do hunters say “harvest,” instead of “kill”?
One definition of “harvest” according to Webster, is “
Hunters are bloodthirsty wackos with a need to kill something.
These psychos don’t last long as hunters. It takes way too much time, effort and energy to legitimately pursue game animals. There is not enough killing to satisfy someone’s bloodlust.
In Colorado, for example, the 2016 success rate for elk harvest was about 30 percent for residents and 45 percent for residents. In Oregon, where I hunt, the success rate on elk is about 15 percent.
Apply this to football – who would go to a game where there is at best a 30 percent chance of someone scoring a touchdown?
Then why do you have to kill something? Can’t you go out in woods and just hike around?
I can, and I do. I’m outdoors year round, and love the seasonal changes. But there is something about pursuing wild game that is embedded in human DNA, and there is nothing like hunting to make me feel alive.
Frequently, hunting ends up being a walk in the woods carrying a bow or a firearm. I’m fine with that.
Hunting is a cruel blood sport: Mother Nature is cruel. In the wild, animals don’t usually get a humane death. They may die from starvation, a broken leg or be ripped apart by wolves, coyotes, cougars or other predators. Their eventual death may be a painful, lingering one. The swift bullet or arrow is the quickest, least painful way to go.
Trophy hunting is bad: It depends on the situation.
To an African villager whose crops are decimated by overpopulated elephant herds, a hunter who culls the herd is a godsend. That hunter will have to buy an expensive hunting permit and hire local people to guide, track, skin and process the downed animal. (Tourism promoters point out that every tourist dollar turns over in a community seven times!) If an animal is killed the meat is traditionally given to the nearest village.
Outlaw trophy hunting, and this economic boon goes away. If no trophy hunters are allowed, villagers will do what they have to to protect their crops and villages.
Hunters pay for conservation: Fact is, over 90 percent of habitat management funds are generated from fees from hunting and fishing licenses.
All hunting-related expenditures in Nebraska totaled $527 million in 2011, according to the National Survey of Fishing, Hunting, and Wildlife-Associated Recreation 2011 National Survey (revised in 2013, the latest information available).
Success is not guaranteed: Unless you’re hunting in a fenced enclosure, nobody can promise you’ll even see a game animal. I’ve hunted several seasons in Idaho where I never saw an elk.
Hunting is a family tradition. My Dad taught me hunting ethics. With the exception of sparrows and starlings, feral pigeons in the barn that ruined cattle feed, and rats in the corn crib, I never killed anything we couldn’t eat.
My brother, Mike Pantenburg, has been my hunting partner since he was 12 and passed his hunter safety class. Some 35 years later, we still try to hunt together every fall.
Hunting season, since time immemorial, has been a time for the tribe to gather. These events strengthen family bonds.
Hunting puts you in touch with nature: My friend, Lily Raff Macallu, wrote “Call of the Mild,” a memoir book about a big city woman learning to hunt. Lily took up fishing after moving to Oregon, and said it opened up a whole new world of awareness. Instead of seeing a river as a water flow, she started seeing the structure in it, the different currents, and all the things that contribute to fish habitat. She took up hunting to gain the same awareness on land.
I like to know where my food comes from: I’m a meat hunter, and could care less about trophies. I will kill the first legal animal that comes along.
My wife and daughter love elk meat. When I go elk hunting, my instructions are to harvest a cow or a spike (if legal), because the meat tastes better. The elk I killed last year was born and grew up about 15 miles from where I live. It lived its whole life in the Oregon high desert, and was wild and free until it was killed.
And those are my reasons for hunting. I still have trouble sleeping the night before opening day, and still get that feeling of awe and respect as I stand over a downed big game animal. And I don’t ever want to get over that.
Leon Pantenburg has been an avid hunter, backpacker, canoeist and fisherman all his life. After a career as a journalist, he moved to Bend, Oregon, where he currently is a newspaper and journalism instructor at Central Oregon Community College. He is the author of the Survivalcommonsense.com website and Youtube channel, and is owned by two black Labs.
So when everything goes down, you plan on using your wilderness survival skills to live off the land. Here’s the reality check.
by Leon Pantenburg
I admire and respect people who take the time and effort to learn hunting, foraging and trapping skills to glean sustenance from the wild. That skill level is much beyond what I could ever hope to achieve. But I am an avid hunter and fisherman, and I have learned a few things here and there.
In the early 1980s, I was young, single and lived in Mississippi, along the big river. My weekends were devoted to hunting and fishing, and I did very well.
During my best year, I legally killed two deer, several dozen squirrels and several limits of ducks, probably about 25. I rented a freezer locker for all this meat, and I basically lived off what I had killed.
I also did well fishing, and had a stockpile of bass, crappie and bluegills.
My standard lunch was a gumbo, chowder, stew or jambalaya I made before hand and carried in a thermos. I worked on my wild game recipes, and friends at work joked about the Yankee from Iowa who had moved to Mississippi to “live off the land.”
But even with that experience and success, there was no way I could survive long term, even if I could develop the necessary foraging skills.
Many times, despite my best efforts, I would get skunked fishing or might miss a shot. I never went hungry because of that, but that would be a different story if I was depending on harvesting my dinner. And even with the best and most efficient equipment, there are times when it seems as if all the game animals have vanished. Or there are days fishing when you can’t buy a bite.
I never got into trapping animals or netting fish, and that would have been an additional way to gather protein. But that is another skill set that would somehow have to be learned.
So when someone comments that he will “just learn to live off the land” as a hunter/gatherer when a disaster or long term emergency hits, I have to shake my head.
Here is an excellent post from Wood Trekker that gives the facts about this idea.
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When it comes to comfort foods, Mexican-style is one of my favorites. Here’s how to make one of my favorite dishes, using elk heart.
by Leon Pantenburg
To say you’re making fajitas is more of a statement of purpose than a firm commitment to a recipe.
Basically, a fajita is a a stir fry recipe, where the meat is cooked quickly, mixed with vegetables, then served over rice.
One reason the dish is so popular is that you don’t need a premium cut of meat. In fact, you can use some of the tougher pieces, or an organ you wouldn’t normally think to use.
Like elk heart.
It’s been a long time since I recovered a heart from a deer or elk, since that is my target of choice. When hit through the heart, the animal may drop in its tracks or run for a short distance before dying. The last two deer I shot were hit through the heart and lungs, leaving a bloody slurry in the ribcage.
I finally recovered an intact heart from the elk I killed last year. I didn’t hit exactly where I aimed, but the bullet still took out both lungs and part of the liver. The bull dropped in its tracks.
Everything is used, so I packed the liver and heart in large plastic bags and hauled them out. If nothing, else my two Labs would love them.
To make fajitas, slice the meat thinly, then marinade it for a while. Sear it in a hot cast iron pan, then add vegetables. The dish is fast, east to make and it really hits the spot at home or in the hunting camp.
Here is a good fajita recipe from the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation.
A flashlight should be part of your Ten Essentials emergency gear and your deer hunting equipment. Here are several that do the job for me.
by Leon Pantenburg
Every deer hunter has been in the woods in the dark, either after dawn or dusk. Successful hunters have probably field dressed a deer solely by the light of a flashlight. And all of us have probably wondered if there were better choices for lighting.
In the early 80s, when my deer hunting addiction started, we carried heavy flashlights with two D batteries. When the Mini Maglite came out that used two AAs, we though we were going lightweight! Mine was about the size of a big cigar.
After field dressing a Mississippi buck in pitch darkness with the Maglite clenched in my teeth, I started looking for headlamps. Drooling on a flashlight is not cool.
Today, there are incredible lights on the market, and choosing one for hunting, backpacking, fishing or any outdoor activity can require some comparison shopping.
Think about this before you invest:
Batteries: Something has to power the light. I like using the same batteries for all my lights and the GPS, to cut down on the number needed. For me, that is AAs or AAAs. But some of the new, compact light use tiny, specialized batteries, and they might not be that easy to find at some isolated rural country store. Plan accordingly.
Weight: Lighter is better. When something is too big and heavy, it tends to get left behind. Look for the lightest, most compact unit that will provide the light you want.
Power: Lumens are the measure of how bright something is. The more lumens, the more light. You don’t want or need a 1,000-lumen light most of the time. (FYI: 60-watt incandescent bulb = 800 lumens) The best choice is some sort of a variable lumen light. You’ll find yourself using the lowest setting the most, since it uses the least power.
Durability: The light should at least be water repellent. Nasty weather is a given on any hunt, and if you’ve never field dressed a big game animal when it’s raining or snowing, you will. The unit should also be able to take cold temperatures. Even if the light is waterproof and not supposed to freeze, cold will affect the batteries.
LEDs: My Mini Maglite had a place for a spare bulb, and in using it for more than a decade, the spare was never needed. That said, I wouldn’t look at a light that didn’t use LEDs. They last forever. You might find a cheaper light that uses bulbs, but you’ll be sorry when it lets you down.
So what is the best light for every deer hunting situation?
Beats me. I carry three different types of lights, and each has its own niche. Here are some thoughts, and some products I have tried, tested and suggest.
Keychain: These are the cute little lights you find in the cash register lanes and quality models retail for around 10 bucks. I carry one of these on every keychain, and several in my office daypack.
These are your backup. They can supply adequate lighting for walking a trail, and are incredibly handy around camp, or for a trip to the latrine.
Two years ago, I shot an eight-point buck right at dusk. It was hit hard, and did its death run right into a several-acre patch of head-high weeds. Finding it was a nightmare in the dark.
Two of the hunters were brand new to the game, and neither had a flashlight. My spare keychain lights worked much better than nothing.
Buy a good one. Get one with an on-off switch. Avoid those that require a constant squeezing pressure to keep lit. Get one with a switch that you don’t need to constantly hold. Avoid those that can turn themselves on.
Blatant commercialism here: I looked a long time to find these keychain lights, and they have proven to be more reliable than any other I’ve tried. They are the standard light for any of the Survivalcommonsense emergency kits.
Another light I discovered at a preparedness seminar is the Pak-Lite. It weighs no more than a standard nine-volt battery. The two-LED light fits on the nine-volt, and that’s all there is to it. (Ageism test – do you remember when they were called “transistor radio” batteries? Do you know what a transistor is? :-))
The Pak-Lite story began when Barclay Henry, 20 years old at the time, decided to hike the Pacific Crest Trail 2,600 miles from Mexico to Canada. Barclay told me at a preparedness expo that he asked his younger brother, Benjamin, then 15, to make him a small, lightweight flashlight that would last the whole trip. Barclay didn’t want to carry extra batteries or bulbs.
Pak-Lite was the result. He used the same light and battery the whole PCT hike, Barclay said, without changing a single battery or light bulb! I’d call that field testing!
Headlamp: If I could only carry one light it would be some form of headlamp.
Here are several I’ve tried and use.
Black Diamond Spot Two: I’ve used this Black Diamond with complete satisfaction for about five years now. I field dressed two deer in pitch darkness in a Mississippi swamp solely by the light of the Black Diamond, and it worked wonderfully.
One of the bucks was way back in the tangles, and had to be packed out. I gutted, skinned, quartered and cut off the legs and head with a good knife and by the light of the headlamp. The 75 lumens the Black Diamond puts out was entirely adequate for all the butchering work, and the hump out.
The Pelican 2765 LED Headlight is small enough to fit in a fanny pack, with no auxiliary battery pack, but it still manages to kick out 105 lumens. It has variable settings, ranging from low, suitable for reading in your tent, to the full bore spotlight.
Black Diamond Icon: This is an extreme sport light, and is superb for spelunking, rock climbing, and any situation where a spotlight might be needed. It is a variable, with settings ranging from a reading-in-the-tent setting to spotlight. The four AAs produce 320 lumens in the high setting.
The battery pack balances at the back with the light. The weight doesn’t seem excessive, but it might get to be a burden during long term use. Also, carrying the requisite extra batteries means you have to carry a minimum of four, and 12 would be better.
Spending several hours looking for a downed big game animal, or a long hike to a trailhead could wear out the batteries. Take that into consideration before investing in any light.
A hand held flashlight earns its keep when a blood trail has to be followed after dark, or you need to scout rough terrain. These lights are typically brighter than some of the smaller ones, and their value comes into play when you have to light up a large area.
I typically don’t carry a large flashlight, but here are two worth taking along.
Olympia RG245: This little unit puts out light way beyond what you’d expect. It produces 245 Lumens with five light settings: High, Middle, Low, Strobe, and SOS. The beam distance is 122 meters, according to the light specs. Peak beam intensity is 3,845 Candelas.
I like the little light, but if you get one, make sure to take along the right batteries. It uses CR123 rechargeable batteries, or something compatible with them.
While you can get these at most box stores and every Radio Shack, the batteries might be in short supply in the backwoods.
Mini Maglite: I haven’t used the latest, updated LED model, but I carried a mini for about 15 years. At the time, the mini-mag was state-of-the-art, and compared to its predecessors, it was lightweight and incredibly efficient.
A headband was available, allowing the user to convert the light into a headlamp. I got a Mini Mag headband shortly after the aforementioned incident field dressing the Mississippi buck.
The latest Mini Mag incarnation has the same look and size, and the same simple operation: Just twist the head to turn it on, turn it off and focus the beam.
The Mini-Maglite produces 111 lumens, is powered by two AAAs, and has a beam distance of 104 meters.
Like anything, what works for me might not work for you. And you probably have some choices of your own when it comes to lights.
So while we may not agree on what particular light to carry, we can probably agree on this: Take spare batteries, let someone know what area you’ll be in and be thankful you can go hunting!
Can a novel change the world? Maybe this one will help.
by Leon Pantenburg
Disclaimer: “The Black Lens” author Christopher Stollar is a friend, and we both worked for The Bulletin newspaper in Bend, Oregon.
For me, the first novel that changed my perception of the world was Huckleberry Finn. That was in the sixth grade, and ultimately, Mark Twain would send me on a journey down the Mississippi River, just like the main character.
Then it was Atlas Shrugged. This made me re-think my political views, and helped shape my philosophy of life.
Now, there’s The Black Lens, by Christopher Stollar. I’m still processing this
The Black Lens is about sex trafficking, and the setting is La Pine, Oregon, a town I’m very familiar with.
I reported about south Deschutes County, Oregon, for “The Bend Bulletin” for more than a decade. La Pine was my town. I covered school board meetings, city government, crime – you name it. I knew everybody, and – I thought – knew everything that was going on. After I left full-time work with the newspaper, I continued to freelance for the Bulletin in the area. Stollar covered the area after I moved on.
In many ways, the south county beat fulfilled my journalism school pipe dream of moving to a small town in the mountains and editing the local newspaper. I thought, and still think, that La Pine is a great place to raise kids.
But La Pine has many areas of gut-wrenching poverty, which rival any American poverty pocket. La Pine has its share of drug and social problems and no town is ever without its underbelly of crime, graft and corruption. But the average person doesn’t see much of that.
The main character, Zoey, has a terrible home life, and goes to South County High, which in reality would be La Pine High School. This makes her a prime choice for being recruited into a prostitution ring.
Zoey goes to a party, drinks a drugged glass of something, and passes out. Then Zoey is blackmailed on social media with a series of porno photos she’s in. The plot worsens, as Zoey and her special needs sister, Camille are dragged into into a downward spiral of drugs, sex trafficking and prostitution.
Seeking to break out of the awful cycle, Zoey contacts the local newspaper reporter who covers La Pine. He is, naturally, interested in the story and helps the girls uncover a sex trafficking conspiracy that reaches high in the school system and Deschutes Sheriff’s Department. It is nice to see small town newspaper reporters finally get some well-deserved credit for the work they do!
The ending kept me up reading way past my bedtime, to see how it came out.
Anyone familiar with Central Oregon will recognize the places mentioned in the book. There is no “Jugs” strip joint at the edge of town, but the fictional location is loosely based on a cabaret in Bend. We know which truck stop Stollar is writing about, and the location of the trailer park Zoey lives in. And the descriptions of walking through the snow to the Dairy Queen across the highway during a snow storm are absolutely spot on.
I ran into Stollar recently at a presentation at Journey Church in Bend. He was on a book tour designed to raise awareness about sex slavery, and was working with the Guardian Group, an organization that fights sex trafficking.
All the book’s research was done in Ohio over a five-year period, he said, and Stollar interviewed police officers, social workers and more than a dozen victims. All the names and places are changed to protect the sources, he said, and the main character is based on the story of a real life victim.
Every major plot point, he said, is based on fact.
“It is rare for a person to be kidnapped like in the movie Taken,” Chris said. “Many of the girls get trafficked through people they know. Often, the victim stays at home, continues to go to school and is trafficked on weekends or after school. One victim said she was trafficked at age 13. ”
Profits from sex trafficking, Stollar says, are in excess of $150 billion per year, making exploitation a major industry. Human trafficking is currently the second largest and fastest growing crime industry, according to the Guardian Group.
The book was set in La Pine, he said, because rural Central Oregon is a great example of “It could happen anywhere.”
“Two weeks ago, several people were arrested in Central Oregon as part of a prostitution sting,” Stollar said. “Look at the personal ads on social media – you’ll find sex trafficking in your area. Pimps are very good at using social media.”
Stollar chose fiction as his platform, because he “loves storytelling,” and because he saw it as a vehicle for raising awareness.
Harriet Beecher Stowe’s anti-slavery novel, Uncle Tom’s Cabin, is published in 1852. It sold 300,000 copies within three months and was so widely read that when President Abraham Lincoln met Stowe in 1862, he reportedly said, “So you’re the little woman who wrote the book that made this great war!”
To Kill a Mockingbird, published in 1960, won the Pulitzer prize for fiction. On critic called the book “… the most widely read book dealing with race in America, and its protagonist, Atticus Finch, the most enduring fictional image of racial heroism.” If you haven’t yet, read it.
The Black Lens could have a similar impact – it is superbly written, and is getting a lot of attention. It recently made it into the Kindle books Top Ten Crime Thrillers.
But the book is not an easy read. It made me feel gritty. It is disturbing. It is hard and raw. Stollar’s wordsmithing skill is that good.
Above all, it made me wonder what I could do to help.
“Sex trafficking a dark topic nobody wants to talk about,” Chris said. “But it’s in every community. It’s not going away.”
Rabbit meat is usually overlooked as a protein source. It shouldn’t be. Here’s why rabbit should be on your menu.
by Leon Pantenburg
My brother, Mike Pantenburg, and I were looking for unique main dish for a Dutch oven cookoff. But this wasn’t just any cookoff – we had qualified for the International Dutch Oven World Championships in Sandy, Utah.
After a lot of consideration and discussion, we decided to go with rabbit. Mike tweaked the rabbit recipe in a couple other cookoffs, and we did well enough to qualify for the world championships.
To my surprise, rabbit was considered unique at the contest. The other teams used the standard beef, pork or chicken. We got a lot of attention from the spectators and TV crews, but we didn’t win. We did place in the top ten, after two days of intense competition.
(We realized we were out of our league as soon as we saw several Dutch oven catering companies in the competition. First prize was $5,000, but the bragging rights were more important to the pros. They had fancy food service quality equipment, and we had the coolers we took to elk camp!)
But back in the 1940s and 1950s rabbit meat was as common for dinner as chicken is today. My aunt Mildred raised a lot of rabbits, and my dad hunted rabbits and squirrels for the table during the Great Depression. It was the meat that got many people through the tough times.
You can generally substitute rabbit for chicken in just about any recipe. An older rabbit, like an older chicken, will probably be tougher than the younger ones.
Rabbits are the most harvested game animal in the United States and the most widely distributed prey animal in the world. Unregulated, rabbit populations can quickly overpopulate a habitat area and cause extensive damage. In Australia, rabbits were introduced, and quickly became overpopulated. Today, they are considered a vermin, and periodic eradication efforts have to be made.
Rabbit hunting is a good way to start out the youngsters. Bag limits are generous, and success is pretty much guaranteed.
As with any game meat, how it will taste depends on how the meat is handled after the animal is killed. I like to gut a rabbit or squirrel as soon as possible. I generally carry a pair of latex gloves, a culinary plastic bag, such as rice comes in, and a good small game knife.
Cleaning a rabbit is easy. You don’t need to “skin” it, since the hide generally just pulls off. You’ll use the knife to slit the belly and pull out the guts. I can skin and gut a rabbit in a couple minutes, and it is an easily-learned skill.
Ideally, I’ll be near a spring or creek so I can wash my hands afterward. Typically, I’m not, so I’ll take along several single pack hand wipes.
The faster the meat is cooled and washed, the better it will taste
So why eat rabbit meat now? Here are ten good reasons from Rise and Shine Rabbitry
What lessons from the Great Depression might apply today? Here’s how my family got by.
by Leon Pantenburg
The stock market crashed in 1929, the economy tanked, farm prices dropped and my grandfather, Peter Pantenburg, lost the family farm in central Iowa. My people have been in that area since my great-great-grandfather, James Hallowell got a land grant after the Civil War and homesteaded in the late 1860s. My great-grandpa, Charles Hallowell, plowed the prairie for the first time in the 1870s with a John Deere breaking plow
My dad’s family went from being prosperous farmers to homeless in a matter of months.
My mom’s family had a similar story. Grandpa Leo Wirth also lost a farm, and he had a large family to feed.
Both families were destitute, but they weathered the storm and stayed intact. There are a lot of lessons learned about coping with economic disaster.
To put this in context: By 1930, according to history.com four million Americans looking for work could not find it; that number had risen to six million in 1931. Meanwhile, the country’s industrial production had dropped by half.
By 1933, when the Great Depression reached its nadir, according to history.com, some 13 to 15 million Americans were unemployed and nearly half of the country’s banks had failed.
The United States didn’t come out of the depression until 1939, at the beginning of World War II.
Despite the hard times, both families stayed intact. All their children turned out to be upstanding, successful people.
Here’s some of the lessons learned.
Never give up: Leo moved his family to Wesley, Iowa, because he found work managing a gas station/garage at a Standard Station. Pete and Leo took whatever work they could find and did any jobs that were available. Neither sat around waiting for someone to help them out. Nobody expected any government help, and both men would have felt it demeaning to take assistance from anywhere.
Figure out your resources, and come up with a plan: Even though it was a good crop, Pete’s corn was not worth harvesting in 1930 with the low prices. So the family burned corn for heat one winter.
Some of the displaced farmers headed west, or to other areas to look for work. Others tried to stay in place. Take an inventory of your resources and assets, and use that list to decide what to do next.
Subsistence hunting and fishing: My dad was 11 in 1929. He was too small to be much help farming, but he was an excellent small game hunter. Dad hunted all the time, and frequently, the rabbits and squirrels he killed became the main course for the evening meal.
His marksmanship got really good. Years later in the Army, that skill got Dad a job training troops and teaching rifle and pistol. Dad’s primary hunting firearm was a single shot .22 rifle. He used .22 shorts, because of the low price and noise, and he only shot once before moving along. (It’s difficult to locate a single shot by sound.) Still, he got caught poaching once.
But don’t depend on hunting or fishing. Hunting and foraging can supplement the food supply, but heading for the hills and “living off the land” won’t work. Have other ideas and plans to put food on the table during emergencies.
Have a skill or supplemental job: All farmers, it seemed, had some sort of side occupation. Leo was a butcher, and he would travel to farms to process cattle and hogs. He frequently got paid in meat. (Leo died when I was seven or eight, but I remember him skinning a pig and tending his bees.)
Charles Hallowell and his daughter, Alice Johnson, used their musical skills to survive. Charles played the violin at bars, dances, parties and other social events. Alice accompanied him on the piano, or played another violin.
They made enough to keep ends meeting, and to take in Pete’s family temporarily. ( It’s in the DNA – today, I play Charles’ fiddle in an old time string band at the High Desert Museum near Bend, Oregon. We do some of the same tunes Charles did. Check out how grandpa’s fiddle sounds on “Over the Waterfall.”)
Everybody, including the kids and old folks, had a job they could do based on their abilities. These tasks could be anything, from gathering eggs, to snapping beans, to helping with the harvest to working in the garden. Every little bit helped.
Stick together: Pete’s family moved to another farm north of Ames, and got a new start. I grew up on that farm, and my dad bought it in the 1960s. (I hunted the same hills and timber he used to hunt as a kid, but I never had the pressure to be successful!)
Other neighbors were not so fortunate, and many of them had to hit the road (Think “Grapes of Wrath”). Our next door neighbor, Jo Stahlman, was born in Foley, Alabama, when her family moved south to find work.
Make do: Fix, repair, recycle and reuse. Clothing was patched, handed down and used up. When it finally reached the rag stage, it might be made into a quilt.
That went for just about everything. Money was scarce, and fixing or mending something didn’t cost anything.
Garden: While millions of Americans went hungry, my relatives gardened like they always did. Every farm had a large plot, and many families were largely fed off the produce. Fruit orchards and berry patches were common,
There was virtually no market for livestock, but farmers could and did raise animals for their own tables. As far as I know, places like Iowa and other midwest states, which didn’t have the severe droughts of the dust bowl areas, fared better than many areas.
Raise chickens and rabbits: Farms back then were more diversified, with a variety of food raising activities. Every farm had a flock of chickens for the eggs and meat.
Rabbit meat is one of the most nutritious meats available, according to Rise and Shine Rabbitry, and rabbits can produce six pounds of meat on the same feed and water as it takes a cow to produce one pound of meat.
Both of these animals can be raised in small spaces and are productive and prolific.
Preserve food: Every farm wife knew how to can and preserve vegetables, and every farmer had a pantry. My relatives, being of mostly German extract, made lots of sauerkraut, and pickled many other vegetables.
Canned and smoked meats were also important. Just about every farm had a smoke house, where meat was preserved by smoking. This included hams, of course, but bacon, sausage and other smoked meats last a long time, and could get you through the winter.
This probably explains why bratwurst and sauerkraut is one of my favorite comfort foods. That’s also in my DNA.
Build a root cellar. These were the family’s food insurance policy. They were generally an area under the house, like a basement, where canned foods could be stored. The temperature, being underground, was generally pretty consistent, and it allowed for long term storage of root vegetables. Hence the name.
The root cellar was an essential way to keep carrots, turnips, beets, parsnips, potatoes, and other root vegetables fresh through the winter months. According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, to work properly, a root cellar must be able to hold a temperature of 32º to 40º F and have a humidity level of 85 to 95 percent. Ground temperature stabilizes at 10 feet deep, according to the almanac.
My Aunt Irene, 82, recalls that Grandma Sophie Wirth frequently ended up feeding extra mouths at the table.
“He (Leo) was known for supporting siblings in anyway he could,” Irene told my cousin Lisa Faust Swenson. “On weekends, anywhere from one family, to all his siblings’ families, would show up for dinner. Grandma would just keep taking food from the root cellar to make sure all were fed.”
It took World War II to bring the country out of the Great Depression. There are still arguments what caused it, and who is responsible. That discussion can take place somewhere else.
We’ve all heard that cliche’ about “Those who don’t learn from the lessons of the past are doomed to repeat them.” And I think the lessons learned from my families’ survival of the depression are valid today.
Here’s the bottom line: You have to be part of a tribe, family or larger group that cares about the individual. Stick together. Learn how to produce, preserve and store food. Learn job skills and how to get by.
And maybe the most important lesson: Never give up!
(Note to all my relatives: I did the best I could with what there was to work with. I remembered stories I’d heard, and in particular, loved talking with Great Aunt Alice about family history. If you’ve heard other stories on this topic, or if I got something wrong, let me know!)
by Leon Pantenburg
Elk Lake, Oregon is one of the major re-supply places for through hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail. Every year, a handful of long-distance hikers will walk border-to-border on the trail. They generally start in Mexico in April, and start trickling in to the Elk Lake Resort about August, en route to Canada.
I was eating lunch at the Elk Lake Resort, and noticed a young lady trekker loading her pack for the next section. She opened her re-supply box, sliced a chunk of cheese, opened several large packages and cut a shoelace, all with her tiny, Classic Swiss Army knife.
“It’s all you need,” she commented. “I have to go lightweight and I don’t carry an ounce that isn’t needed.”
I carry a Swiss Army Classic on my keyring everywhere. And for lightweight hikers, who go long distances with minimal equipment, a Classic may be a reasonable choice. On a well-traveled trail like the Pacific Crest or Appalachian, you’ll seldom be isolated from other hikers for very long.
But that doesn’t mean you don’t need a knife for backpacking. Get separated from the group, off the beaten path in the backcountry, or in some sort of wilderness survival situation and you may desperately need the appropriate knife.
If I could only pick one tool to take along in the wilderness, it would be a knife. But which one is best for your backpacking needs? How do you balance weight versus practicality?
The Best Knife?
I bought a Buck folding hunting knife in 1976 and that Buck and I bonded. It was in my pack when I hiked the John Muir
Trail in California; the Thorofare Creek loop of Yellowstone, Death Valley and on several other long hikes in various western mountain ranges.
But the Buck was retired when I moved west and my needs changed.
Today, I carry two knives dayhiking and backpacking: The Swiss Army Classic and a Mora-style knife. Combined weight of both knives is about four to 10 ounces (Depending on how much duct tape you wrap around the Mora sheath!)
If it is legal, I have a Classic with me at all times. It features minuscule size, and a collection of tools that can’t be beat. Because it is so convenient to carry, you will take it along. You will go from wondering what good the dinky knife is, to wondering how you got along without it!
The Mora Knife
Mora is a brand. Currently, the rage among some survival schools is some form of the Mora, a small, Scandinavian-style sheath knife with a four-inch blade and a large, easy-to-hold handle. Personally, I think they’re great, and I generally have some variation of the classic Mora at hand.
Several years ago, I was looking for a small, inexpensive sheath knife that could be recommended to Boy Scouts. (Be wary of folding knives, even if they’re lockblades!) The knife had to be an all-around, do-everything tool. It would be used for a variety of tasks, and needed to be lightweight and small enough to be carried conveniently.
Because excellent Moras are available for prices ranging from $10 to $15, I bought several versions and put them through their paces. Long story short – over the years, the troop has bought 90 Mora 840 Companions for the scouts to use.
If you want a sturdier – but somewhat heavier – version of the Mora, there are several available. Recently, I ran this Battle Horse Knives Feather Stick through its paces.
Here is what a backpacker gets from the combination of the two knives:
Classic: The tiny blade does most of the trips mundane cutting tasks, saving the Mora’s edge for larger jobs. The knife has a tweezers, scissors, toothpick and a fingernail file (I grind the tip to fit my glasses hinges). You will use these tools much more than you ever imagined!
Mora: Backpackers will mainly use their knives for slicing bologna, spreading peanut butter and cleaning the occasional panfish. The Mora’s four-inch blade is just the right size for these jobs, and you won’t have to clean the goo out of the hinge after every use! The larger knife is also perfect for those unanticipated tasks that come up on the trail.
This very useful duo will take care of most of your backpacking knife needs. The combination has served me well for several years of backpacking, and is worth considering!
Us equipment users find good gear and use the hell out of it. That’s what happened to the Buck folder I bought 40 years ago this month.
by Leon Pantenburg
In the summer of 1976, I was a new Iowa State University graduate, completely broke and unemployed with no real prospects of landing a high-paying job. But I had world traveler plans and was wild to experience the wilderness and mountains of the western United States.
That summer, I backpacked several hundred miles in Wyoming and several parts of the Sierras in California. Hiking the complete length of the John Muir Trail fanned my backpacking interest and curiosity into a complete and uncontrollable addiction. (Read my trail journal.)
I had to invest in gear. Balancing needs with my budget meant some serious comparison shopping had to happen. (FYI: Minimum wage in Iowa at the time was $1.60 an hour.)
I spent $105 on a Kelty Tioga backpack and $85 for a hollowfill sleeping bag. My boots cost $25 (as best I recall) and came from the War Surplus Store in Powell, Wyoming.
There was a lot of shopping around before I bought a new Buck 371 folder for $25 on August 31, 1976, at the Ace Hardware Store in Lovell, Wyoming. That knife was carried and used extensively until I opted for a rigid blade and bought a Cold Steel SRK in 1991.
I wore out the boots and the sleeping bag. But a good knife, properly cared for, is virtually impossible to wear out or screw up. Before it was honorably retired in 1991, that Buck was my indispensable tool.
That folder went on backpacking trips in Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains, the Pryor and Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming, the Thorofare Creek Trail loop in Yellowstone, numerous hikes in California, and on countless canoe trips, including one through the Okeefenokee Swamp in Georgia.
That Buck was my everyday carry knife on my 1980 six-month, end-to-end Mississippi River canoe voyage. (Check out the river story.) The blades stayed sharp, despite being used for virtually everything a canoe knife can be used for.
The knife rode in a leather sheath on my hip, and I put it on with my pants in the morning, and removed it when I crawled into my sleeping bag at night. Along the Mississippi, a knife sheath on a belt didn’t get a second look.
The next year, the Buck became my hunting knife when I became addicted to whitetail hunting in Mississippi. It was used on many deer, and was frequently loaned out at deer camp because I kept it razor sharp.
Then the Buck accompanied me on backpacking and bicycling trips and deer hunts in Virginia and upstate New York.
Though the knife was used constantly and never let me down, it was replaced with a Cold Steel SRK when I took up backcountry big game hunting in Idaho in 199o.
Here’s the specs of the Buck:
Steel: Buck’s standard blade material, according to the Buck Company, is 420HC because it combines “excellent wear resistance of high carbon alloys with the corrosion resistance of chromium stainless steels.” An exclusive heat-treat process for superior corrosion resistance, the company claims, creates “excellent tensile strength, hardness and wear resistance.”
Handle: The injection molded black valox handle fit my hand well. Even though it frequently got bloody and slimy, the handle didn’t get slippery and unsafe to use.
Blade points: The clip and drop point on the blades proved to be excellent choices. The clip was used most often, with the most common task being slicing apples and spreading peanutbutter on crackers. The drop blade was kept razor sharp and was used mostly for cleaning fish. Over the years, that blade got thinned down a lot from constant sharpening.
No lock blade: In the early 70s, the Buck 110, with a lock blade, was really popular. Deer hunting buddies of mine still use theirs. It’s an excellent knife, though a little heavy for my tastes. I understand that a lockblade MIGHT be safer, but otherwise, I didn’t really see the need.
I don’t trust the safety on a firearm or the lock on a folder’s blade. Use any lockblade like it doesn’t have a lock.
Size: The Buck was too big and thick to carry comfortably in a pocket, but I didn’t care. I always carry my pocketknife in a belt sheath if at all possible. My Swiss Army Knife Tinker rides on my belt every day, and it’s not a big knife.
Blade length: Both blades were about 3-1/2-inches long, which is about the ideal size for a do-it-all knife. I’d prefer a shorter blade for small game processing and whittling, and a longer blade for butchering. The best blade length depends on what you’ll be using the knife for.
While the Buck worked very well in the southeast, I had some reservations about it continuing as my western hunting knife. Here’s why I went to a rigid blade hunting knife.
Backpack hunting in the Idaho backcountry requires pack weight be kept to an absolute minimum. Kill a deer or elk several miles back in the mountains and you’ll have a real job getting the meat out before it spoils.
You need a lightweight, but sturdy knife, with the most efficient design possible. Any butchering gear must also double, if necessary, as survival tools.
Folders are more fragile than rigid blade knives. If a folder is going to break, it will do so at the hinge. Murphy says that will happen at the worst possible time.
And chances are, if you’re ever going to get into a survival situation, it will be in the backcountry, and you may need that knife desperately.
So the Buck was retired with honors, and for several years, it remained in a box with several other retirees. (These included my Mississippi River fillet knife, a Shrade lockblade folder and several others.)
And then it disappeared, somehow. I don’t have a clue where it went, unless the Buck got lost during a move.
I’d give a lot to find that grungy, well-used pocket knife. You don’t want to give up on stuff that works.
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Tanka Bars blend ancient recipe and nutrition with new packaging and marketing.
by Leon Pantenburg
Disclaimer: Azure Standard is a Survivalcommonsense.com sponsor. I bought these products to test and try out. This is my opinion and nobody had any input into the content.
I want to know where my food comes from. And I want organic. Add some historic ingredients and sound nutrition and I’m sold. Tie all that up in with attractive, easy-to-carry packaging and somebody take my money!
Those are just some of the reasons I like the Tanka Bar. The Tanka Bar tastes good, and only has 70 calories for a one-ounce bar.
Slightly smoky tasting and sweet, this isn’t that chewy, tough jerky that requires good teeth and strong jaw muscles to eat.
The recipe goes back to prehistoric times: buffalo meat and berries. And like the original, the Tanka Bar has no nitrates, and no antibiotics or added hormones.
“We started with the traditional recipe for wasna and thought to modernize it. We tried all sorts of ideas to improve on wasna, but each time we added something to the mix, we went further away from what we intended,” the Tankafund.org website claims. “It could not be improved! We came full circle to see that the traditional flavors of meat with fruit were perfect.”
The bison was much more than a source of food for the Natives. According to Lakota elder Virgil Kills Straight, on the website:
“In the Lakota language, the word ‘tatanka’ is translated as ‘buffalo’ or ‘buffalo bull. However, according to native Lakota speakers, the literal translation is something more like ‘He who owns us.’
“The four-leggeds came before the two-leggeds. They are our older brother, we came from them. Before them, we were the root people. We came from them. We are the same thing. That is why we are spiritually related to them. We call them in our language “Tatanka,” which means “He Who Owns Us.” We cannot say that we own the buffalo because he owns us, ” Kills Straight explains.
Here are the Tanka Bar specs:
|Calories from Fat 15|
|Total Fat 1.5g||2%|
|Saturated Fat 1g||4%|
|Trans Fat 0g|
|Total Carbohydrate 7g||2%|
|Dietary Fiber 1g||2%|
- dried cranberries (cranberries
- salt and less than 2% of flavorings
- red pepper
- granulated garlic
- granulated onion
- lactic acid starter culture
If you’re looking for a trail food that supplies quick energy and are tired of the whole grain commercial brands, take a look at the Tanka Bar. They go for about $2 each, which is a steal for a nutritious snack. (Lays original potato chips go for $1 per bag in the vending machine outside my office.)
Put these in a kid’s lunchbox and maybe they won’t be tempted to go after the junk food.
I like the whole concept of Tonka Bars. You might like them too.
Read the story of the bison and its connection with the Indian people.
Some scout troops and camps have a blanket ban of sheath knives. I think that’s a bad idea and here’s why.
by Leon Pantenburg
I get it when parents are concerned about their boys handling sharp objects that could cause great harm. And it makes sense that knives, axes and fire should be handled with extreme care.
But one of things we do as scouters is teach young men to act safely in the outdoors. That means working with tools that could be dangerous in untrained hands.
But I don’t get how some camp directors ban sheath knives from camps, or that some scoutmasters won’t let the boys carry any knife but a folder.
Here’s the Boy Scouts’ take on sheath knives:
“Q. What is the official BSA regulation on carrying sheath knives?
A. The Boy Scout Handbook, Bear Handbook, and Webelos Handbook contain the program for the safe and responsible use of knives. The BSA believes choosing the right equipment for the job at hand is the best answer to the question of what specific knife should be used. We are aware that many councils or camps may have limits on the type or style of knife that should be used. The BSA neither encourages nor bans fixed-blade knives nor do we set a limit on blade length. Additional information is found in the Guide to Safe Scouting.”
No scout can carry any knife until they earn a Totin’ Chip, which means they have had several hours of training and hands-on experience using knives, saws and axes. Each scout has to have that chip on them at camp if they’re carrying a knife.
If the scout is seen acting in an unsafe manner with his knife, he is warned and a corner of the chip will be cut off. When all four corners are gone, the scout has to take the Totin’ Chip class again before being allowed to carry a knife.
Since knife safety training is a requirement, then, every scout with a knife has been trained and we assume he knows how to safely use any knife.
Here’s why – IMO – sheath knives are the best choice for scouts:
Learn knife safety: So you’re going to require a kid to learn knife safety, then tell him he can’t use a sheath knife safely? Hmmm…what does that do for the credibility of the Totin’ Chip training?
Cooking: To earn the (Eagle required) cooking merit badge, scouts have to prepare food outdoors. If they have to use a folder for some of the food preparation, inevitably, some of the food will get in the blade channel. There may not be time or enough water to effectively clean the knife effectively. Next step: food poisoning.
Cleaning fish: The Fishing merit badge requires a scout catch a fish, clean it and then cook it. Sure, he can use a folder. But the same concerns about cleanliness in the blade channel should be there.
Also – a folder handle is typically smaller than a rigid blade knife. Some fish scales and slime on the pocketknife handle may create a potentially dangerous situation.
Pocketknives fold on fingers: An informal poll among other scoutmasters in the district pointed this out: The most common cause of cuts on scout outings is when a blade folds on a finger.
The scouts require a lock blade on a folder, but that is no guarantee of safety, especially with kids who have beginner knife handling skills. Unless you want to invest a lot of money in a folder, you may end up with a sketchy lock.
Several years ago, a scout at one of the Fremont District camps had to make an emergency room visit after the lock on his folder failed. It cut his fingers severely.
And what about those flipper or gravity assist folders? IMHO, those are dangerous. Inevitably, scouts will get into fast-draw contests or they will flip their knives to show off. That potential problem is averted with a rigid blade knife.
Cost: Scouting is expensive, and there is always the temptation to scrimp on things when you can. A well-meaning parent or grandparents may buy a cheap folding knife, and think that because it has a lock blade, it is safe.
In reality, a cheap folder can be one of the most dangerous knives for a kid. On some folders, the hinge may be the most expensive part of the knife. Break that, and you have two pieces and a disabled survival tool. If you’re lucky nobody got hurt.
Better handle: Rigid blade knives have more ergonomic handles than most folders. A thin profile folder, designed to be carried in a pocket, may be harder to grasp and more uncomfortable to use.
But scouts of all sizes in Troop 18, in Bend, Oregon, have used dozens of full-sized Mora knives for more than a decade, with no problems
Carving: The wood carving merit badge requires a lot of whittling and carving, and that means knife handling. The steel in that cheap folder’s blade probably won’t hold an edge very long, making it dull quickly. If the blade has a serrated edge, it will be really difficult to use. A dull knife is dangerous because it will slip while cutting.
Cost: Several years ago, after the aforementioned scout cut his fingers at camp, the late Dr. Jim Grenfell and I set out to find the safest, most efficient knife for scouts use. Jim, incidentally, was a UCLA dentistry instructor who took up blacksmithing and knife making upon retirement.
Long story short: After a lot of testing and research, we chose the Mora 840 Companion as the best beginner knife for scouts. It offered low price, great blade steel, and ergonomic handle. We got a big discount because we bought in bulk.
The troop bought 40 and sold them to the scouts for $8 each. This year, the troop got another 50, at a cost of $10 each to the scouts.
The Moras are cheap, reliable and safe. The troop has figured out a way to modify the sheaths so they’re even safer.
One of our former scoutmasters is a very successful big game hunter. He could easily afford a better knife, but he has used his Mora on deer, elk, moose and hogs because it is so effective.
Here’s what I’d suggest to camp directors and troops regarding rules for using sheath knives:
- ALL knives are subject to camp director/scoutmaster approval before being allowed on the premises. All knife rules and requirements should be published well before camp begins. It goes without saying that no applicable federal, state or local laws will be violated.
- All sheath knives must have a sturdy, safe and secure sheath.
- All sheaths for knives must be worn on the side or behind the hip.
- Establish a maximum blade length: A four to five inch blade is all anyone needs for 99 percent of all camp tasks. It is a good compromise of compact carry and efficiency.
- Buy Moras for the scouts in your troop, then modify the sheaths for safer carry. Get all of them the same color and make it part of the uniform.
When it’s all said and done, scouting has never had more challenges. According to BSA statistics, enrollment continues to decline. Out of every 100 kids who start scouts, 30 will drop out the first year.
One very visible thing that sets us apart from other youth programs is the emphasis on outdoor skills. We owe it to the kids to make their scouting program exciting, dynamic and fun.
Leon Pantenburg has been a scout volunteer for almost 20 years, and has been an active assistant scoutmaster with Troop 18 in Bend, Oregon since 2001.
Leon is a merit badge counselor for cooking, camping, wilderness survival and backpacking, along with others.
In 2007, he has received a district award of merit for the survival firestarting program he initiated.
He has been awarded three Eagle Mentor Pins, two 50 Miler patches and has more than 100 nights of camping with scouts. He loves snow camping and has not missed a Freezoree since joining Troop 18.
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How do you learn the basic survival skills of marksmanship, stalking, concealment and skinning and processing game animals? Take up squirrel hunting.
by Leon Pantenburg
Many people don’t know how to get started hunting. But they may be thinking it’s time to learn.
There could be a variety of reasons – to supplement your diet, to harvest clean, organic, non-GMO meat, to practice wilderness survival skills to get outdoors more etc. The reasons are as varied as the participants. (A good point-of-view comes from Lily Raff McCaulou, a city woman who took up hunting when she moved to rural Oregon. Her book “Call of the Mild” is a reasoned look at hunting.)
But there are added benefits. You can learn survival skills that might come in really handy if The Shinola Hits the Fan.
Start by taking a hunter safety class, and learning firearms safety.
Then take up squirrel hunting.
Squirrels are the second-most harvested small game in the US, after rabbits. They are in virtually every state, and most places have liberal limits.
A 10-year-old kid with a .410, an old guy with his equally ancient Winchester 97 or the modern longhunter with a flintlock can all be successful and get a lot of enjoyment out of the same activity.
Here are some of the survival skills that go along with squirrel hunting.
Marksmanship: The average adult tree squirrel will weight on average about one pound. The target size is small. They move quickly, and are masters of concealment. If one spots you, you probably won’t get a shot.
Using a shotgun doesn’t guarantee success. A squirrel running through the trees tops, offering only fleeting glimpses of its bushy tail is a challenging target.
A rifleman has more challenge. If you restrict yourself to heads shots only, your target is the size of a walnut. If you can consistently make a head shot, at a range of between 10 to 30 yards, you’ll have no problem taking a deer at similar ranges.
If you want to get really good with your centerfire rifle, work up some reduced loads and hunt small game with it. (Just about every reloading manual has some suggested low velocity loadings. DO NOT make up your own!)
Up the ante and go hunting with a blackpowder rifle. The epitome of squirrel hunting challenge, to me, is using a flintlock rifle, like the colonial frontiersmen.
Talk about trophy hunting – your success rate may go down, but when you do drop one there is a real feeling of accomplishment.
I gave up bowhunting squirrels after a couple of unsuccessful tries. Not only could I not hit one, but I also usually lost the arrow. If you’re a hardcore bowhunter, though, use small game blunts and have at it.
Stalking: We’ve all seen city parks with the fat, complacent squirrels. (Here, the best hunting tool might be a slingshot.) But go to a public hunting area, and the squirrels have been educated. You might not even see one. This is where you learn to walk quietly on dry leaves, blend in with trees and brush and stalk close enough for a shot.
This skill transfers to big game hunting. And, God forbid, if you ever get involved in some sort of guerilla war situation, you’ll know more than many of your opponents.
Use camouflage: Some hard core hunters wear head nets or camouflage paint to hide their faces. There nothing like a bright, shiny face, peering up into the tree, to spook a squirrel.
I tend to wear a broad brimmed hat, and lower my head to hide my face. If it hot and buggy out, a head net is welcomed and hides my face.
Camo patterns are seasonal, and you’ll learn what works best at different times of the year. You’ll quickly figure out what keeps you warm or cool, and how comfortable the clothing is. Needless to say, this could be invaluable if you ever have to bug out somewhere.
Firearms: Use a firearm hunting and you’ll inevitably get better using it and become more familiar with the operation. And don’t discount squirrel hunting firearms for self defense.
Shotguns loaded with slugs or buckshot may be the best short-range self defense weapon ever devised. And a .22 rifle, in the hands of a cool survival mom with the will to use it and survive is a formidable weapon.
Don’t underestimate the killing power of a .22 rifle. As an Iowa farmboy, I’ve humanely dispatched injured pigs and other large farm animals with a single, well-placed .22 slug. (Here’s how to pick the best firearm for your needs.)
Patience: A good hunter is a patient one. There is generally no instant gratification in hunting, and the successful hunter invests time in researching the animal, learning its habits and habitat and practicing marksmanship. Patience is not learned quickly.
Check out all your gear: You’ll use your firearm, cam0, hunting knife, boots and clothing, but other gear goes in the mix. That GPS, map and compass will get used heavily, so your navigation skills stay current. You’ll learn where to find water, and read wild animal sign. Bad weather will teach you how to take shelter.
You won’t just be using the hunting equipment.
Learn how to process game animals: Rabbits and squirrels are easy to skin, gut and quarter, and this experience can be applied to larger animals.
On his first hunt to Idaho, I was trying to explain to my cousin Marion how to gut a deer. As kids in Iowa, Marion and I had hunted small game together a lot, but this was his first experience with big animals. My explanation was not going too well, judging from the puzzled look on Marion’s face.
“OK – think of a deer is just a big rabbit,” I said. “Just gut it like you would a rabbit or squirrel.”
Marion understood instantly, and had no trouble later on.
Cooking: Survival food has to be tasty, and cooking over a campfire is another skill that has to be learned. Cook an older squirrel on a spit over a campfire, like many Youtube videos and survival show, and the result will be a meal that is as tough as a boot and tastes like one.
I’ve hunted all over the country for deer, elk and small game.
But give me a choice of any day hunt, and I’ll probably take a deciduous forest full of oak and beech trees at dawn. The squirrels will be moving in the trees and I’m there to harvest a few with my flintlock rifle.
Learning survival skills should be fun, and squirrel hunting is one of the best teaching environments around!
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Some recipes, like this one, are old friends.
by Leon Pantenburg
Recipes trigger memories sometimes, and that’s what happened when I came across this mulligan recipe. The date on it is December 16, 1989, it has a 3.5 star rating out of a best possible four. I remember why I cooked it.
At the time I lived in Washington D.C., and frequently hunted at Quantico Marine Base, south of the city.
For a country type such as me, weekend hunting trips helped me keep my sanity amid the Beltway hustle and pressure associated with a stressful job.
Shotguns were required to hunt on the base, but there was a loophole that allowed blackpowder rifles for small game hunting. Blackpowder is my favorite method of hunting anyway, and my .40 caliber flintlock was my ticket to small game heaven.
All hunters were required to check in at the gate before dawn, and each was allotted 160 acres to hunt on for the day. I had scouted the land, knew where the hickory and oak groves were, and usually got my favorite spot.
There is something about drifting through a hardwood grove just after dawn, wearing a powder horn and shot bag and hunting with a genuine longrifle that makes it impossible to worry. The smell of the damp leaves, and ker-flu of the flintlock firing, followed by the fog of powder smoke were part of an incredible experience. Harvesting a squirrel was a bonus.
On this particular day, I was flinching just right when I pulled the trigger, and had killed three squirrels with three headshots. I dressed the squirrels and headed back home through the insanity of the Beltway traffic.
Later that week, I was looking for a recipe to use three squirrels, and found this one. It’s a winner!
3 squirrels, dressed
2 onions, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
2 russet potatoes, diced
4 Tbs chili pepper
salt to taste
pepper to taste
dash of Louisiana hot sauce
1 c cooked rice
Stew squirrels in water until tender. Removed meat from bones. Place meat into broth, and bring to a boil; add remaining ingredients except rice. Cook 45 minutes, or until vegetables are tender. Add rice and serve.
Here is my go-to firemaking method for survival situations and how to use it.
by Leon Pantenburg
It has been over 15 years since I started any wilderness campfire using any ignition method other than flint and steel.
Part of the reason is to keep my survival skills polished, and the other is that flint and steel is just so effective. I’ve used the method successfully in driving rain and snow, wind and zero degree temperatures. But the old time method would not be my first choice as a survival fire making tool during an emergency.
My number one choice is a combination of cotton balls infused with petroleum jelly and ignited with a ferrocerium (also frequently referred to as a flint or magnesium) stick.
The method has a lot going for it as a survival fire starter: the small, one-handed-opening container I use holds three infused cotton balls, weighs virtually nothing, and doesn’t take much space. The infused cotton balls can be lit with virtually anything that produces a spark or flame.
Properly infused cotton will burn for several minutes, and that alone will help coax a campfire out of damp tinder and wood.
Here is how to use the system:
Before you go: Get some extra-large 100-percent cotton balls and petroleum jelly. Pack as much jelly as you can into the cotton. Carry these in an easy-to-open, but secure container. Make sure these are close to your ferro rod for easy and quick access.
While not crucial, I like to take along an aluminum foil yogurt container top, too. (Survival Expert Peter Kummerfeldt taught me this trick, and I promote it shamelessly.)
- Remove a pinch of the fire starter from the container, and fluff it up as much as possible. The size of the pinch depends on a variety of circumstances, including dampness of the materials, weather, and the severity of the situation. If you desperately need to start a fire to prevent hypothermia, use a lot. If the emergency in not particularly severe, take some extra time to gather more tinder and small sticks and use a tiny pinch.
- Place the cotton on the aluminum foil. The infused fluffed-up cotton will be sticky, so it will stay put on a flat log or rock, too. I like the aluminum foil trick because the concave foil makes the melted jelly pool, and that adds significant burning time.
- Point the end of the ferro stick at the base of the cotton. Get the stick as close a possible.
- Place the striker on top of the mag stick at a 90 degree angle. Position the edge at about a 45-degree angle, as if you want to whittle off some magnesium.
- Draw the ferro rod back sharply, while holding the striker in place. There is tendency for people to want to “whittle” the mag stick with the striker. This works just fine. For beginners, though, I recommend drawing the ferro stick back, so you don’t scatter the firestarter if your hand slips.
- The shower of sparks should ignite the cotton ball. The cotton ball can also be used as fire starter with any other flame or spark source.
If you’ve done everything right, this process should take hardly any time. The initial fire ignition should burn for several minutes. All you need to do is add, in this order, small twigs, larger branches and finally logs. Gather all these, and have them ready before you ignite the cotton ball.
Then, congratulations – you have a warm fire, and can think about the next step in your survival plan.
A perennial reader favorite every fall is the update on the best hunting knives for deer. Here are some blades worth checking out.
by Leon Pantenburg
We’re not looking for the best survival knife or the best bushcraft blade here, but rather a cutlery tool that can do the job of gutting, skinning and quartering a deer. By extension, though, the knife should also work well on elk, bear, hogs, exotics or whatever big game animal is harvested.
The knife should be lightweight, easy to carry and have a reliable sheath. The steel should hold an edge. In a pinch, the knife should be able to handle survival knife jobs, such as whittling, processing tinder and cleaning fish.
I can’t check out every new knife, and I don’t have the time or money to legally kill enough animals to use every knife in actual field conditions. And although I was lucky enough to legally kill three bucks in 2014, and a bull elk in 2015, there are years when you appreciate why it’s called hunting, and not killing!
But even during years when I didn’t down an animal, I usually ended up helping process other, luckier hunters’ kills. So take my thoughts for what they’re worth.
Let the campfire discussion begin…
No Folders: I love pocket knives. For years, a Buck model 317 folder was my go-to knife for southeastern hunting. But any folder’s weak point is the hinge. Break that, and the knife is disabled. A knife that might have to do double duty as a survival tool needs to be sturdy.
Blade length: A blade between four-to-six-inches is my preference. Ask any professional butcher what he uses on a daily basis, and he’ll probably recommend a longer blade.
No choil: A choil is a ground out space on the blade, by the handle. Proponents claim the choil allows you to “choke up” on the blade for fine work. The choil eliminates one of the most useful areas of the blade, right next to the guard, IMHO, and reduces the cutting edge.
Safe Handle: A non-slip handle is paramount. Inevitably, the knife will get covered with blood and body fluids during a gutting operation and a slippery handle is dangerous. A well-designed handle, made of micarta or wood, that fits your hand is going to be safer than a soft, rubbery, smushy handle that doesn’t.
In no particular order, here are some good choices for the big game hunter, whose hunting knife might end up doing duty as a survival knife. I tested and reviewed them, or am in the process, and several will be going on big game hunts.
Ambush Tundra: Based on the Canadian leaf style blade design, this is the hunting knife I would design for me. Made by Bark River, the Tundra has a generous handle that fits my hands very well.
I liked my original Tundra with the green micarta so much I got another one with a desert ironwood handle. Just because I could, and I wanted it.
Cross Whitetail: Pete Winkler is the knifemaker at Cross knives, and he is producing some beauties.
I’m currently checking out his Whitetail model, and am really liking it. With a 3.71-inch A-2 steel blade, the knife features a full-sized handle that fits my hand very well.
The drop point and generous belly on the blade shows a design a deer hunter would approve of. I’m taking this one hunting.
Lon Humphrey Sterling: All Humphrey’s blades are hand forged from 1095 high carbon steel. The tempering process leaves the steel with an unequaled edge-holding ability. The Sterling sucked me in immediately when I saw the forge marks and thought how a curly maple handle would so match my flintlock longrifle.
The knife in hand was everything I hoped for. It is scary sharp and I’ll bet it holds an edge forever. The handle is a nice size, and I could safely use it, even with gloves on.
I liked the knife so much I got my brother, Mike, one for his birthday. He’s also a history nerd and blackpowder hunter, and Mike appreciates the craftsmanship and aesthetics of a hand forged blade. Between the two of us, we should blood a Sterling this season.
Bark River Mountain Man: Another classic, the Mountain Man pattern comes from one of the most researched and distributed knives in American history.
During the fur trade era, about 1825-ish through the end of the 1830s, barrels of these types of knives were shipped west and sold to natives, trappers and settlers. If there had been a market for a different design, someone would have tapped it. As it is, you’d be hard pressed to find a better user knife.
The Bark River version combines the old design with new materials and super steels. My two are regulars in the kitchen, and they work well for everything.
Zoe Crist Santa Fe: My Santa Fe is currently on loan to a friend of mine, Phil Brummett, who is a fly fishing guide and skilled woodsman. He’s also a former Scoutmaster and still active in the outdoor skills training for scouts. He’s on my short list of people I want to go camping with.
Phil’s knife is used to clean fish, whittle sticks, for bushcraft tasks as needed and a multitude of things associated with making a living outdoors.
The only instructions Phil got were to use the knife as he normally would use any knife.
I was attracted to the Santa Fe because of the design, the shape of the blade and the A2 steel in it, and maker’s reputation for quality work.
More on this knife later.
Battle Horse Knives Feather Stick: Based on the classic Scandinavian design, this knife has a time-proven design record of usefulness. One of my hunting buddies, a physician who could easily afford a better knife, has used his $15 Mora 840 Companion on deer, elk, moose and hogs.
When he sees my Feather Stick, he’ll probably upgrade.
Bark River Trakker Companion: I love the blade design, but the handle doesn’t work for me. The four-inch convex grind blade has a drop point and will work very well for gutting and skinning. Why wouldn’t it? It’s a Bark River.
L.T. Wright Rogue River: The company sent me this knife after I requested they re-grind my GNS into a full convex grind. While I love the GNS as a bushcraft tool, the thick blade with the scandi grind isn’t the best choice for a butchering/skinning knife.
The Rouge River has a thinner, flat ground four-inch blade with a good belly on it. The well-designed micarta handle and drop point would make this a good hunting knife.
L.T. Wright Next Gen: With a three-inch blade, this wouldn’t be my first choice if I could only take one knife. But the Next Gen has a generous micarta handle that fits me well and it is a proven user.
Forest Knife: Made by the American Knife company, this knife is patterned after what survival guru Mors Kochenski recommends for a bushcraft knife. It will work well for processing a deer, but it wouldn’t be my first choice because of the thick blade and scandi grind.
But the Forest Knife might be the best choice for someone who is mainly interested in bushcraft, with an occasional deer hunt thrown in.
Bark River Snowy River: The aforementioned physician who uses a 840 now has a Snowy River. He helped gut and skin my elk with it, and it was evident he really liked it.
The knife has also been used successfully on wild hogs, and the Elmax steel continues to hold a really sharp edge. I may strop the blade at hunting camp, but that’s mostly because of my obsessive/compulsive need to sharpen every knife around me.
Hall of Fame:
Check out last year’s best deer hunting knives.
You’ll see some of my old favorites and some knives that are worth considering, just because they work so well.
My preferences in deer hunting knives will most likely be different than yours. You’ll see a definite pattern here.
I want a rigid, four-to-five-inch, clip or drop point with a blade of high carbon or tool steel. The handle needs to be at least four inches long, of a material that is durable and non-slip. Within those perimeters, there are a lot of variations.
All of us have opinions, and reasons for those opinions. And that’s why campfires are so much fun!
Gardening can be hard work. Here’s some edibles that grow wild – and free.
by Leon Pantenburg
Who doesn’t want free food?
If you know what you’re doing, you’ll find all sorts of goodies to supplement your diet.
If you know what you’re doing.
Take cattails, for example. All parts are edible, and the plant is
widely distributed – I’ve found cattails in swamps with standing water, and around stock ponds in the desert. But there is a dangerous look-alike iris plant that is poisonous. (Here’s how to tell the difference.)
Everybody knows what they look like. For most homeowners with a lawn, the plants with the bright yellow flowers are a nuicense.
But during a disaster when the food gets short, dandelions can provide vitamin C and greens to supplement an otherwise bland storage food diet.
Be careful where you harvest them, though, and make sure the plants haven’t been hit with some lawn care herbicide. I used to pull dandelion leaves and feed them to my daughter’s rabbits. The rabbits preferred dandelions to all other foods.
Here are 12 edible “weeds” that can be found in vacant lots, in woods or any place where the herbicides haven’t taken them out.
DON’T eat anything you can’t positively identify.
If nobody knows you’ve gone, or where to look, or when you’re expected back, it could be a long wait to be rescued!
by Leon Pantenburg
A detailed note, left behind before any outing, should be Standard Operating Procedure. The note could end up being a lifesaver.
Before writing anything, though, consider who the note will be entrusted to. It must be a reliable person who can be relied upon to contact the proper authorities if you don’t show up as scheduled.
The standard style for an informative news story (which is what this note is) is based on the “Five Ws.” This model is taught in journalism schools, and the name refers to: Who, What, Where, Why and When.
Answer all these questions, and you will give the search and rescue folks a better chance of finding you quickly.
WHO: Start with your name and cell phone number. Also include the names of other people in the party and their cell phone numbers. The phone numbers can be critical: if one cell doesn’t get coverage, another might. Or one phone could be damaged or run out of battery power. All the numbers increase your chances of communication!
Include the make, model, year and license number of the vehicle you’re taking.
WHAT: The purpose of the outing is to do…Fill in the blank, and be specific. A mountaineering expedition to scale a peak differs tremendously from a fishing expedition to the lake at the base. Knowing the purpose of the trip helps narrow down where a lost person might be. It can also help emergency personnel prepare themselves more effectively for the search.
WHERE: I like to use GPS coordinates here. Put the coordinates (and the datum) down of where you intend to park your vehicle, waypoints of your route and your destination. Even if the weather gets nasty and your GPS won’t work, rescuers will have a good idea of where to look. A map left with the “Five Ws” note could be very helpful if you don’t use a GPS!
WHY: An important question, and one that will help rescuers know where to look. A wildflower photography or fishing trek may not cover a lot of ground. Rescuers will know to concentrate their efforts around the WHERE.
A 20-mile jaunt on the Pacific Crest Trail, though, means you’re ambitious, possibly lightly-clad and equipped and capable of covering a lot of ground. The search may have to be expanded. WHY also provides a clue as to how prepared the lost persons might be.
WHEN: You anticipate getting back at what time? When should the person with the note contact rescuers?An additional insurance aspect is to take a piece of aluminum foil, step on it with the shoe you will be wearing to leave a footprint. Include the foil with the note. Searchers can then eliminate obviously bigger or smaller footprints with different tread patterns on the trail.Put the note, map and footprint in a gallon ziplock bag. Write the name of the missing person or party on the bag with a felt-tip pen, and hand the package over to rescuers.
Survival common sense is a combination of many small, inter-related skills and techniques. An informative note before leaving on your trek is a good place to start.
A recent post “Survive this: Six maps you should have for urban disaster evacuations” was very popular. Here’s four more maps.
by Leon Pantenburg
Last week, we published a story on six basic maps to have when planning an urban evacuation. Apparently, a lot of you were interested – the post went viral, and got thousands of views.
Along with the views came feedback and suggestions.
Here are four other maps that may work in your areas:
From Weedhopper: Railroad map. Check with the department of transportation office for your state. Virginia will give you one for free…just email them in Richmond. (Get your own area by going here: http://fragis.fra.dot.gov/GISFRASafety/)
From ME: Sectional Charts or Aviation Maps. VFR maps are accurate and show visual points of reference such as railroad tracks, bodies of water, rivers, power lines,major roads, cities etc… You can actually download the whole maps free through the FAA, or buy them for about $8 each on-line. They show all the towers too.. which are great points of reference. (Here’s the link: https://skyvector.com/)
From Steve: Another source for FREE maps is the USGS. They have topo maps, rainfall maps, and plenty of others also. If you live in Texas then you can use University of Texas library for topos that you can customize for your area. (Check them out here: http://ngmdb.usgs.gov/maps/TopoView/)
Irrigation district maps: Every irrigation ditch probably has an access road that goes along it. In Central Oregon, this road can take you through a lot of isolated desert areas, where this may be the only road. For those of us in arid areas, these roads could prove to be an uncrowded route away from a population center. This is what my area irrigation map looks like: http://coid.org/files/2613/7047/2416/COI_shadedrelief2.pdf)
Disclaimer here: Don’t rely on a GPS or any electronic device as your only navigation tool. They are as reliable as the batteries in them. Get a good baseplate compass to go along with your map, and know how to use it.
You can skin and field dress squirrels, rabbits, upland game and smaller animals with many different styles of knives. Here’s how to pick one that can do the job, without breaking the budget.
by Leon Pantenburg
Harvest a limit of squirrels, rabbits or upland game, and you’ll soon learn what knife works best for field dressing and cleaning the carcasses. Some skill and a sharp knife makes the job easy; a large, unwieldy piece of cutlery makes it a chore.
Generally speaking, when it comes to processing small game, smaller is better. A large Bowie-style knife is a really bad choice for this task, and it only takes one session with your large survival knife to prove that.
Likewise, the wide, stubby blade of a big game skinning knife isn’t the best choice either.
During my formative years of small game hunting in Iowa, I was enamored with the concept of a large hunting knife. I couldn’t afford one, so that lead, at age 13, to my first foray into knife-making.
After a lot of grinding and work, I made a clip point hunting knife with a six-inch blade. I didn’t have any leather, so a temporary sheath was made out of cardboard and tape. Today, 50-some years later, that combo resides in my gun cabinet.
Though the blade held an edge well, but it didn’t take long to figure out it was too big for much besides stabbing bears and hand-to-hand combat. I habitually carried a pocket knife, as all farmboys did, and ended up using it for all my small game work. A standard middle-sized Stockman with a clip, a sheep’s foot and a spey blade was all I ever needed until I took up big game hunting.
Before buying anything, here are some attributes to look for in a small game knife:
Ease of sharpening: In Iowa, the daily bag limit for rabbits was 10, and my hunting buddies and I might limit out. The same thing could happen with pheasants or quail. A successful hunt could mean a long processing session. A three-bladed pocket knife was a good tool choice, because when one blade got dull, I could switch to another. But no matter what knife you choose, it needs to be easy to sharpen and must hold an edge well.
Easy to carry: When small game hunting, I like to field dress the animal as soon as it is killed. That means the knife must be at hand, and easy to get to and use.
In small game animals, there isn’t much skinning involved. You pull the hide off rabbits and squirrels and most other animals under about 10 pounds, so a skinning-style blade is not necessary.
I also prefer to stop sometime about mid-day and skin and completely take care of the carcass. Then it is placed in a cloth or culinary plastic bag, such as rice comes in, and cooled.
Comfortable handle: Many smaller pocket or rigid-blade knives don’t have very ergonomic handles. Especially in a pocket knife, the handles tend to be thin and slim for easy carry in a pocket.
I like a bigger handle for a user work knife, and many of the pretty, good looking handles on smaller knives won’t be comfortable to use for extended periods of time.
Here are some of my favorite small game knives:
Pocket knife: I’ve already stated my affection for pocketknives, but don’t, on principle, like a folding blade for hunting purposes because of the potential for folding the blade onto a finger. I also don’t like how blood, guts, fur and feathers can gunk up the hinge, or get in the space where the folded blade resides. If your knife is intended to be an all-purpose tool, it could end up being very unsanitary for cooking.
That said, I frequently carry my three-blade Puma Bird Hunter small game hunting, because it is so handy and the steel holds an edge so well. Sometimes, I’ll take a lockblade Buck Lite, because it is really lightweight and holds an edge well.
Opinel: Made in France, the Opinel is an inexpensive, wooden-handled folder with a twist-lock blade. That makes it, IMO, one of the safest lockblades on the market. It comes in several sizes, but my favorite, and the one I use the most, is the three-inch blade model. The drop blade point and belly on the blade makes it a useful tool.
Mora: A Mora-style knife is inexpensive. Since there is no hinge to pay for, the manufacturing investment is in the blade. I have several Mora-styles I regularly use, but the Model 840 Companion is a favorite because of the price and design.
C.T. Fischer Full-Tang Bushcraft knife: Everybody who likes knives should have a couple nice ones. A few years back, I treated myself a handmade, custom four-inch, full tang Bushcraft, and have no regrets.
I love the knife and in addition to being a wonderful small game hunting knife, it is also an all-around tool. The steel is superb and the handle is incredibly well-fitting for my large (glove size) hands.
Here are some other knives I’ve tried that work well for small game processing:
L.T. Wright Next Gen and Patriot. The Next Gen, with its three-inch blade and generous handle has proven itself to be a fantastic every day carry user knife. The handle fits my large hands well and the blade is a good length.
The Patriot is designed to be an outstanding small game knife. Unfortunately for me, the handle is too short. But for people with small or medium-sized hands, it might end up being your favorite knife.
Battle Horse Knives Feather Stick: This newbie relies on the tried and tested Scandinavian pattern that is at least 1,000 years old. It looks like a Mora 840 Companion with upgraded steel and handle materials. I’ve used an 840 for a lot of fish cleaning and squirrel skinning and the design works. The Feather Stick should work even better.
Bark River Gunny: I have owned three, and a Gunny is my most-carried knife. I like everything about it, and while there are possibly better knives for small game processing, there’s no question the Gunny can get the job done.
When it comes to processing small game, there is a wide assortment of choices. When you get right down to it, an Exacto knife with interchangeable blades would work just fine. Or you could use a Stanley utility knife from Walmart.
But what fun would that be? And how would you be able to justify shopping for and buying another knife?
Make your knife choices based on the kinds of game you anticipate harvesting, the conditions you will hunt under and what you like. That will end up being your favorite small game knife.
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The frontiersmen, longhunters and settlers who relied on a flintlock rifle, shotgun or pistol knew how to start a fire with the firearm. Here’ one way to do it.
by Leon Pantenburg
A died-in-the-wool history nerd and old time equipment fanatic like me is always checking out new old gear, and trying to figure out how the oldtimers got along. It’s probably some sort of character defect.
But a Boy Scout asked me one time at a flint and steel firemaking demonstration, what would you do if you had one arm disabled? Could you still start a fire?
Sure, I commented, just as long as I have my flintlock.
The flintlock was the primary ignition system for firearms for almost 200 years, according to The Firearms Guide.
The very first true flintlock firearm was developed by Frenchman Marin le Bourgeoys, The Firearms Guide claims, who designed it for King Louis VIII. Flintlock muskets, pistols and rifles were the mainstay of every European and American army from 1660 to 1840.
I got into muzzleloading firearms in the early 80s when I did a story on a Vicksburg, Miss. riflemaker. Charles Crowther was a wildlife biologist, whose hobby was making Pennsylvania long rifles. His specialty was crafting the firearms from the mid-1700s through the 1850s.
Charles gave me my current longrifle (check out the story), named Annebelle, and I have used it extensively for hunting and target practice.
Anyway, I was sitting under a beech tree one morning, waiting for a squirrel to come around to the other side of the trunk, when the thought came to me.
I am proficient starting fires using flint and steel. But what would I do if one hand or arm was disabled? Could I still make a fire to keep from getting hypothermia?
I dug out some charcloth from my kit, UNLOADED my rifle and started experimenting. I found that the flintlock worked really well with charcloth, and was almost infallible.
Now, this technique requires a flintlock to work, naturally, but I like to think of this as a survival mindset exercise.
If you’re always thinking about how to use the available resources for survival tasks, then you’ll be better prepared for emergencies.
In this case, the technique is just another cool way to start the campfire, and the conversations that will go on around it!
What kind of maps do you need to function in urban and/or wilderness situations? What happens during a disaster where you are forced to evacuate and need to travel by road, then go off road and finally cross country?
by Leon Pantenburg
I never go anywhere off the pavement without a compass and topographic map of that area.
But let’s assume an urban disaster scenario, where you need to leave your home. What maps do you need to get to safety? (And don’t just plan to rely
on a GPS. They are as reliable as their batteries, and constant use could mean the unit is soon powerless. Also, any electronic device can break or just quit working.)
Start your navigation plans with a good compass. I prefer one with a clear baseplate that is designed to work on maps. Invest in a good one with declination settings, and then learn how to use it. The smaller compasses that come with some survival kits are only useful as backups and for giving you a general direction.
City map: Your evacuation from your home will start with this map, so get one with the finest detail possible. This map can help you figure out alternative street evacuation routes if bridges and/or overpasses are closed. Also, gridlock on major highways and freeways is a given, so you might need to plot a course around them.
Topographical map: A topo map is a three-dimensional view of an area. Looking at it, you can get an idea of the terrain. Here’s a good description.
According to the Geospatial and Analysis Cooperative of Idaho State University: “The concept of a topographic map is, on the surface, fairly simple. Contour lines placed on the map represent lines of equal elevation above (or below) a reference datum.
“To visualize what a contour line represents, picture a mountain (or any other topographic feature) and imagine slicing through it with a perfectly flat, horizontal piece of glass. The intersection of the mountain with the glass is a line of constant elevation on the surface of the mountain and could be put on a map as a contour line for the elevation of the slice above a reference datum.That allows me to create a custom map of wherever I want to go.”
I have the National Geographic mapping software for my home state of Oregon, so I create a custom topo map for every outing. I print them out on standard-sized letter or legal-sized paper. These sizes fold nicely in half and fit in a quart Ziploc plastic bag. This bag, in turn, rides in the thigh pocket of my BDU pants. The map is easy to pull out and check, which means it will be.
During an urban evacuation, you might need to go cross-country through a park or open space to avoid crowds or other potential dangers. The city map may give street details, but it may not show water obstacles or other physical barriers. With your topo and compass, you should be able to plot a course effectively.
State Highway map: This gives the big picture of your situation. It shows major highways and roads, and gives general directions. It is useful for figuring out where to go once you escape the urban scene.
Forest Service map: I carry this in my car in central Oregon. Commonly referred to as a fire road map, this is a large overview of the national forests and public lands. Most importantly, it shows fire and logging roads. The map doesn’t show if the roads are improved or not, so don’t depend on this map to tell you if you can drive on it. In some instances, the roads may have overgrown into trails. You may be able to hike or ATV them in the summer, or in the winter, snowshoe or operate a snowmobile.
These maps are particularly useful for big game hunters. Kill an animal, and you need to know where the nearest road or trail so you can get the meat out. It can also help you figure alternative routes in wilderness areas. Once you get to the rural or wilderness areas, a good compass, this map and the appropriate topos will be worth their weight in gold.
These four maps should help you get out of town. Here are some others that could also prove to be useful:
History maps: I combine my map and history obsessions and buy any historical map I come across. Some of them, such as the Oregon Trail or Lewis and Clark maps show the routes used by historical figures. While the trails may be obscure right now, that doesn’t mean they aren’t useful. Overland pioneer routes were established because wagons or pack trains could cover them. Those trails might be a good thing to know at some point.
River charts: My fishing and map nerd-ism combine again with these charts. Every navigable river in the United States has detailed charts showing river terrain, danger areas, and topography of the stream. These charts allow a traveler to plan a river evacuation or trip. I carried a set of Mississippi River charts on my end-to-end journey in 1980. It was easy to plan overnight stops, or decide where to pull out.
On smaller rivers, such as Oregon’s John Day, or the Deschutes River, the maps can show take-out points, landings and water dangers.
Hunting maps: Put out by your state fish and wildlife departments, these are useful to anyone who goes into the wilderness areas. I carry one to see the boundaries of my hunting unit, road closures and to some extent the terrain.
None of these maps are of any value if you don’t know how to read and use them. A good training activity that includes some exercise could be to take your compass and maps, create a possible evacuation scenario and practice navigating somewhere using alternate routes, streets and cross country travel.
So check out these maps, practice with your compass, and give some thought to how you might get out of town if you had to.
You made the first decision in knife-buying, and opted for a folder over a rigid-blade knife. What else do you need to consider before investing in a quality folding knife?
by Leon Pantenburg
If you look around, you can find any pocket knife variation under the sun. But what works well in an urban boutique might not fill the bill on a farm or ranch.
Here are 10 things to consider when choosing a folder. These are based on my prejudices, biases and decades of everyday knife carry.
Steel: A pretty knife with crappy, inferior steel is a waste of money. The Buck folder I carried for years was made of 420 stainless, and the edge-holding ability was very good. My Benchmade Griptillian is made of 154CM.
Check out which steel will work for your needs, and that can help narrow down your choices.
Not too big: For years, I carried a large Buck folding hunting knife in a belt pouch. That Buck rode on my hip the length of the Mississippi River, (Check out the book!) and did everything I needed. But, it dawned on me one day, that if I was going to carry a knife on my belt, it could just as well be a rigid blade.
A pocket knife should be small enough to be carried conveniently in your pocket, but be large enough to be useful. Don’t get carried away with the idea of a large, bulky folder. It will soon prove to be inconvenient to carry.
Lockblade: I think lock blades are highly over-rated, and may give a false sense of safety. I know of two instances where locks failed, resulting in serious injury. Nothing can completely guard against stupidity. But remember, a lockblade, no matter how well-designed, is inferior, safety-wise, to a rigid blade knife.
The correct, safest attitude, according to Derrick Bohm, owner of KnivesShipFree.com, is to use the lock blade folder as if it doesn’t have a lock on it.
No serrated edge: I don’t see the value in a serrated edge. If you think you’ll need one for cutting a seatbelt, rope or something like that, then get a specialty knife with a serrated blade.
Otherwise, you’ll find that serrated edge is a specialty grind that doesn’t get used that much. It will, however, take up one of the most useful parts of the blade.
Ergonomic handle: Your pocket knife is your whittler. Make sure you can use the knife for long sessions. The handle needs to fit your hand, not get slippery when wet, and carry well in your pocket.
Not too thick: A thick pocket knife usually can’t be carried comfortably in a pocket. My personal comfort level is two layers thick. Any thicker and the knife will probably end up in a belt pouch. If you’re in an urban setting, you may not want to advertise that you have a knife. A belt pouch is a giveaway.
Blade design: You can get anything you want, so decide what tasks you may use the knife for most often. My most-used everyday carry knife is a Swiss Army Tinker, with a three-inch spear point. My woods rambling pocket knife is frequently a Puma stockman model, with three blades: a large clip point, and smaller sheep foot and spay. This is an excellent small game knife and one I reach for when skinning squirrels and rabbits.
Price: You usually get what you pay for, but a quality pocket knife doesn’t have to be expensive.
My dad wore out pocketknives. He was a carpenter and farmer, and used his knife multiple times every day. Dad carried a medium-sized stockman pattern knife, bought at the local tractor supply store. He felt no brand loyalty – if a knife didn’t work like he thought it should, it would be relegated to a tractor tool box. Dad probably never spent more than about $15 for a knife, and didn’t give much thought to his everyday tool.
Stick with name brand, quality companies, and you can find an inexpensive, practical knife.
Handle material: I love pretty knives. But a beautiful knife with a cheap blade is a waste of money. I like micarta for durability and stag for pretty. Decide how important appearance is to you.
In some instances, appearance is everything.
My daughter works part-time at an upscale boutique that sells expensive, trendy clothing. She is required to dress appropriately. But she also must use her pink-handled Mini-Griptillian regularly for opening boxes, cutting string and tape and other stocking chores.
The cute, pink knife looks like a fashion accessory clipped in her hip pocket, but it is also a working tool and could prove to be a formidable self-defense weapon. A “tacticool” folder wouldn’t fit in this environment.
Convenient carry: Do you need a clip on your knife? Maybe.
My son, a touring rock musician, needed a benign-looking utility knife for stage and sound system setup that could be opened with one hand. He opted for an orange-handled Griptillian after seeing his sister’s knife. (The Griptillian, incidentally, is the recommended folder of choice for several Search and Rescue teams.)
The orange knife looks inexpensive, harmless, and kinda nerdy. The knife clips into my son’s side or hip pocket and he can open it one-handled while carrying or positioning a speaker or amp. For his pocket knife needs, the Griptillian is perfect. Both my kids’ knives work extremely well for their intended purposes.
Regardless of where you are, in an urban or wilderness setting, IMHO, you need a knife. Pick the right folder, and you’ll enjoy carrying it. That means when you need a knife, you’ll have one.
Here’s a solid shoe designed for the canoeist, kayaker or anyone who does a lot of water activities, and who might need to portage heavy gear over muddy trails.
by Leon Pantenburg
I was not paid to write this review, and at the time of publication Merrell has no sponsorship relationship with Survivalcommonsense.com.
If you think accumulating shoes is a gender-specific syndrome, then you haven’t seen my boot collection. I have everything from flip-flops to arctic quality snow boots.
In my defense (and if my wife happens to read this) it’s because I wear shoes every day, and one style won’t work for everything.
That is particularly true if you go some place like the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness on the Northern Minnesota border.
I did a nine-day canoe trip there several years ago, and footwear was critical. In the Boundary Waters, the canoeist will be portaging heavy loads on muddy trails between lakes. Shoes get soggy and stay that way. Still, you need a shoe that has a good tread design, and that won’t slip around on your feet.
A pair of military-style jungle boots were my choice of footwear, and they were OK. I usually ended up carrying the 70-pound canoe, and the boots provided the necessary ankle support on the sometimes muddy trails. The boots were heavier than needed, and weighed even more wet.
On a backpacking trip in the Yellowstone backcountry in the late 70s, I crossed Thorofare Creek multiple times over several days. I wore Adidas running shoes, which never really dried out. But this saved my leather boots from staying wet, and I thoroughly appreciated my camp shoes.
I recently tried out a pair of Merrell® Capra Rapid Hiking Water Shoe. This is a shoe designed for canoeists, kayakers, river rafters or anyone who needs foot protection in a wet environment.
Here are the specs:
- Durable synthetic and mesh upper materials.
- Quick-drying hiking shoe featuring cord-and-lock lacing system and triangular side cutouts with mesh underlay
- Printed pull-on loops at heel and tongue
- Rubber foam and mesh lining for cushioning
- Perforated EVA removable footbed to control moisture and drainage
- Water distribution ports in midsole and outsole to manage water distribution
- Vegan-friendly construction.
- Protective toe rand.
- Tongue and heel pulls.
- Breathable textile lining.
- M Select™ FRESH technology reduces odors.
- Perforated EVA removable footbed helps control moisture and drainage.
- Drainage channel in outsole to manage water evacuation.
- Molded nylon arch shank.
- Merrell air cushioning in the heel for added shock absorption and stability.
- SELECT GRIP outsole for multiple terrains, wet and dry, 3.5 mm lug depth.
- Weight: 12 oz
- Imported (Made in Vietnam)
about a mile every night with my dogs, so the Capras were broken in in the desert. The shoes kept the sand and dirt off my feet reasonably well. For full-blown desert hiking, I would add a pair of ankle high gaiters to keep those annoying tiny trail rocks out.
Recently, I went dayhiking with a bunch of Boy Scouts on the Paulina Creek Trail in Central Oregon. The trail runs along a creek with a series of waterfalls, and it was a perfect situation to check out a shoe designed for creek crossings and portaging.
Here’s what I liked:
Lightweight: The Capra doesn’t weigh much, but it is sturdy enough for hiking with reasonable loads. This means they will go along on the next backpacking trip. I carried about 15 pounds, and had left room in my pack to help out the little guys if their loads got too heavy. ( The scouts did just great – they didn’t need adult backup.)
The shoes were comfortable and I didn’t have any problem with blisters or rubbing. I wouldn’t want to substitute these shoes for sturdy hikers if I were carrying a heavier load, though. The additional weight could overpower the Capra sole and result in sore feet.
Quick drying: The mesh upper, with four water distribution points, really works. I waded the creek several times to check out how quickly the shoe would dry out. I don’t think I’ve worn a shoe or boot that dries quicker.
Speed lace: I haven’t used speed laces much, but I like these. It’s very easy to tighten and loosen the shoe with the system, and they will be really handy if you’re doing a lot of portaging.
Sole design: I waded in the Deschutes River in Central Oregon, and in stream beds with rounded, slippery rocks. The Merrell select wet grip soles are great, and are some of the best water soles I’ve tried.
Heel cup design: The heel upper is a cup that secures your foot. I didn’t notice any undue sliding around, even when the shoes were new.
Socks: I got my Capras big enough to wear a pair of socks with. If you anticipate hiking a river trail, or using these shoes for hikers, a pair of socks is a great idea. I wear wool socks year round, and they are comfortable in the Capras. I don’t anticipate wearing these shoes in snow and cold weather, but you can never tell what might come up. If need be, wool socks and Capras would be reasonably comfortable in cool weather.
Cushioning: These are not designed for trail running or trekking. The cushioning is minimal, and designed to dry out quickly. Know that when you’re considering investing.
Not so hot on:
Not made in USA: Many quality products come from overseas. But anything not manufactured here means that local, state and federal taxes might have been avoided. The foreign workers may have been exploited, and these folks certainly have no stake in an American community. Buy USA whenever possible. Support American small business.
Other than the manufacturing origin, I couldn’t find anything I didn’t like about these shoes. It remains to be seen how well these shoes hold up over extended use, but my experience with Merrells is that they wear like iron and and won’t let you down.
Love your Mora™ knife, but want something tougher? Check out the Battle Horse Knives™ Feather Stick™.
by Leon Pantenburg
I was not paid to do this review, and at the time of publication Battle Horse Knives™ had no sponsorship relationship with Survivalcommonsense.com.™
Nobody appreciates the Mora-style knife more than me. (Mora™ is a brand, virtually synonymous with the Scandinavian-style, fixed-blade knife.)
The Boy Scout Troop I hang out with has bought 90 of the Mora 840 Companions, over the years, for the scouts to use. This purchase recommendation came after I bought a couple and torture tested them.
I typically don’t abuse knives. But these were going to be issued to inexperienced kids, and any scout worth his salt can screw up an anvil. So I batonned one through a hard, knotty chunk of firewood, twisted the blade, stuck it in a tree and wiggled it back and forth, dulled and sharpened the blade and in general, displayed a total ignorance of knife handling and use.
The knife wasn’t tested to total failure – anything will break if you work at it long enough – and I was satisfied that the 840 would be a safe tool for scouts.
But though I love the design, I always wanted an upgrade, with a full tang blade, micarta handle and a solid leather sheath. And some of the adults who used and appreciated the 840 also mentioned they would like a tougher knife.
So when I saw the Feather Stick, I ordered one immediately. It arrived the day before a backpacking trip with scouts, so the newbie went along.
Here are the Feather Stick specs:
1/8″ O1 tool steel
8 3/4″ Over all length of knife
3 7/8″ Cutting edge
15/16″ Over all height from sharp edge to spine
Mine came with a green bead blasted micarta handle, but there are other options.
I used it, and here’s what I found out.
The design: The Feather Stick looks, feels and handles like a Mora clipper.
Moras are made in Sweden. But the original Scandinavian knife design probably goes back about 1000 years, to some Viking-type, who was looking for a useful, everyday tool. It wouldn’t be particularly useful in battle, or for raiding, pillaging and plundering, but everybody carried a small knife as part of their wardrobe. The knife would be used for everything.
And so this knife design evolved to what it is today, and that’s what I like about it. You would be hard-pressed to find a more tested, practical blade/handle combination that can do just about everything.
I have used my 840 for everything from whittling and cooking to cleaning fish and skinning deer. The 840 may not have always been the best knife for a specific task, but has always served admirably.
Scandi grind: My favorite grind is the full convex. I like it so much, I have had several Scandi grinds re-ground into full convex.
But for bushcraft, wood work and ease of sharpening, it is really hard to beat the Scandi. This becomes particularly important for the beginner. If he/she can’t keep the knife sharp, it soon becomes a chore to use it. With a Scandi grind, lay the bevel flat on the stone and it becomes the sharpening guide.
Handle: IMHO, this handle design is one of the most ergonomic on the market. Everyone, from the smallest 11-year-olds to ham-handed people like me can use the handle safely. I’ve done extensive whittling and carving with my 840, and never had any problems whatsoever.
For a user handle, I want micarta. It’s bullet proof, and gets tacky when wet. I’ve used several micarta handles where they got immersed in blood, or covered with fish scales and slime. They were always safe to use. But I also really like wood handles, so pick your favorite.
I love green, because of my Irish heritage, and I particularly like the bead blasted green. The texture and coloring remind me of the pilings on the Mississippi River.
Sheath: My biggest complaint about a 840 is the crappy plastic sheath they come with. Granted, in a knife that sells for less than $20, you can’t expect much. Troop 18 came up with a way to modify the standard sheaths to make them safer.
The Feather Stick comes with a stout leather dangler sheath. IMHO, a dangler is safer and easier to carry than just about anything else.
Steel: The Feather Stick comes in 01 tool steel.
According to Speedy Metals Information: “O1 tool steel is a low alloy cold work tool steel that must be oil-quenched in heat treatment. O1 contains small amounts of manganese, tungsten, and chromium, giving O1 adequate toughness for normal tool and die uses. O1 has deep hardening properties with fine grain structure with unusual toughness.”
I haven’t used 01 before, so I’ll continue to check it out. My initial testing shows the O1 holds an edge very well, and maintaining that edge shouldn’t be hard.
Point: The Feather Stick has a drop point, with a hint of a clip to it. My favorite point is a clip with a swedge, but for an over-all knife, a drop point is stronger and more practical. (Here’s how to chose a knife point.)
Blade length: IMHO, a four-inch blade is about perfect for an everyday carry or do-it-all knife. I want a shorter blade for carving and small game processing, and a longer blade for butchering and bushcraft. Decide what you’re most likely to use the knife for and choose accordingly.
Full Tang: Any rigid-blade knife that might be used as a survival knife (and that means all of them) should have a full tang. This option makes a stronger knife, and one that is less likely to break under extreme conditions.
Spine: The spine is ground at 90-degree angles, like an ice skate, so it can be used to process tinder and scrape a ferrocerium rod. This could come in handy and save your sharp edge.
Made in the USA: All Battle Horse Knives are made in Cambridge, Ohio. Call the company (like I did) and a pleasant person with a Midwestern accent answers. The employees make a living wage, pay local, state and federal taxes, and contribute to their community. Support American small business and keep jobs here!
I didn’t like:
…hmmm…still working on that one. The knife is just about perfect for someone who wants a Mora-style knife.
Ok, how about this – the “Feather Stick” doesn’t sound like a real macho blade. The knife is not very “tacticool”. It might not look very badass at the militia meeting, or clipped onto your body armor.
So do you need a Feather Stick?
Comparing a $15 Mora to a $150 Feather Stick is so apples and oranges. Somebody will (justifiably) argue that you can buy 10 Moras for the price of one Feather Stick.
Sure. But will you take along multiple Moras into the wilderness on the off chance that one might fail?
Here’s my take: If you like a Mora-style knife, but want a beefier version with premium steel, then you need to invest in a Feather Stick. Remember, (the old mossy cliche′) the best survival knife is the one you have with you.
If you’re going to rely on a Mora-style knife as possibly your only available survival knife, don’t you want the one with the best possible quality?
All things considered, any emergency situation can be made worse by the weather! Heat waves, coupled with power outages, can be deadly. Learn what you can do!
By Leon Pantenburg
What happens when an earthquake occurs along the New Madrid Seismic Zone (The United States’ second largest earthquake area, located near New Madrid, Mo., along the Mississippi River)? And how much worse will conditions be if this catastrophe happens during the winter when it’s -20 degrees?
On the other hand, how will you stay cool and safe, if an earthquake, flood, tornado, tropical storm etc. knocks out the power grid when the temperature is well over 100 degrees outside? If you don’t have to evacuate, how can you stay cool inside your house without power?
To start with: Don’t underestimate the danger of high temperatures!
About 400 Americans die each year from summer heat, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Furthermore, the National Weather Service claims excessive heat is the number one weather-related killer, causing more fatalities per year than floods, lightning, tornadoes, hurricanes, winter storms and extreme cold. There are energy-efficient, environmentally-sound methods of dealing with the heat inside your house, says Bobbie J. Bourne of the Bend, Oregon American Red Cross.
Start staying cool by taking care of yourself, and keeping hydrated, Bourne advises, and reduce physical activities during the hot part of the day.
“If you’re thirsty, that means you’re not drinking enough,” Bourne said. “Avoid caffeine and hot drinks and make sure you drink lots of water and drinks that replace electrolytes, such as Gatorade. Eat smaller meals, and eat something cold. Wear loose, light-colored clothing. You might want to put water in a spray bottle and cool yourself off with that.”
Then take a look at your home and think about how you can reduce the heat coming in, and regulate the interior temperature naturally. That beautiful sunshine pouring through the windows also heats up the air inside, so a good way to reduce that heat source is with drapes or window coverings.
An effective way to use the coverings, Bourne says, is to pull them shut during the day when the sun is beating on the windows.
“Keep your windows open at night, so the cool air can come in, then shut the windows and pull the drapes in the morning,” Bourne said. “Your house will stay cooler during the day. When it gets cooler at night, open the windows and get the hot air out of the house.”
Depending on the emergency, there might not be electrical power to the area for months, or it might be sporadic. If the power does come back on, even briefly, a good, quick way to get the hot air moving out of the overheated house is with a pair of electric fans.
Place one facing in by the window where air is coming in, Bourne said, and one at an opposite window positioned to blow warm air out. This can create a nice “wind tunnel” effect in pulling air through the house, and that will cool the interior.
Let’s suppose that there is some intermittent electrical power available, but you can’t use the central air conditioning. Here are some tips from the American Red Cross for staying cool inside when it’s hot outside:
- Make a “swamp cooler” by putting a bucket or pan of water in front of a fan. This will help cool the air as it is circulated. (I lived in an antebellum house in Mississippi, with no air conditioning, for several hot summers. This technique works!)
- Minimize the use of your oven. Use your grill outside, Bourne recommends, or plug your toaster oven into an outside electrical outlet to cook.
- Wait until after the sun has gone down to run heat-producing appliances.
- Line-dry your clothes to avoid using the dryer.
- Use ceiling fans to create a breeze and to re-circulate air.
- Run the bathroom fan after you shower to pull the humidity out of the house.
- Trade your hot shower in for a cold one.
- Let your hair air dry after a shower, and enjoy the cooling effect of wet hair while you wait for it to dry.
- Minimize the amount of bedding you use.
- Make sure all air vents are free of obstructions. If they’re covered with furniture, the cool air won’t circulate.
- Close your fireplace flue to avoid losing cool air.
Survival of any emergency, be it in an urban or wilderness survival situation, ultimately all boils down to education and preparation. Think about possible weather scenarios – hot or cold – as part of your family’s preparedness plans.
(Here’s an unrelated poem by James Autry called Nights Under a Tin Roof. It’s here because I like it!)
Ever look at the weeds in your yard and wonder if you could eat them?
Me either. Not until now. Most of us don’t have a clue.
by Leon Pantenburg
I always associated foraging for wild plants with wild places, or at least, weedy overgrown areas. Many people know that cattails are edible, but don’t know much about other wild plants.The weeds in my yard are a nuisance, and I didn’t give much thought, other than getting rid of them.
But maybe we should start learning about edible wild plants. After all, knowledge is key in surviving anything. There is no better place to start learning about edible plants than in your backyard, under a controlled situation.
Learning about edible wild plants (or any survival skill for that matter) should be done in a controlled environment, not after the disaster occurs!
This guest post by Abby Quillen describes and illustrates some common plants that might turn out to be really important!
So much of what we used to know about living day to day has been lost. How many of us, in a pinch, could make up a shelter or go without a visit to the grocery store for a few days? These are all lost talents—but you can get some of that knowledge back. A good place to start is foraging for things to eat in your own back yard.
What you might call a week may be a plant with enviable nutritional properties. Plantain and broadleaf, for example, are all the target of chemical extermination, but they can be eaten and supply various vitamins. The same goes for the bane of the lawn lovers—dandelions.
We lost our need to eat plants like these when we domesticated plants and animals. That’s led to a lot less species variety in our diets. However, before you dive in with a clippers to what’s growing out back, familiarize yourself with some of the poisonous counterparts, too.
This graphic is a good place to start your journey to more backyard eating. Check out eat the weeds.
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One of the most useful, and effective fishing lures is the spoon. Here’s how to make a good one, for pennies, from recycled materials.
by Leon Pantenburg
I started making fishing lures many years ago after balking at the price to replace those lost when fishing around rocks, trees and snags.
One the best, and most effective fishing lures under a variety of circumstances, is the spoon. As the name implies, the spoon fishing lure is shaped like a spoon you eat with.
After a fishing trip where I lost a bunch of lures, I looked at a standard culinary spoon. With a little effort I decided I could come up with an interesting – and cheap – fishing lure.
The first commercial fishing spoon was apparently made by the Eppinger company, which has been making the Dardevle spoon since the early 20th Century. Knockoffs have probably been around for nearly as long.
The history of the Dardevle name is an interesting one…according to the Eppinger website, the first fishing spoon was originally named the “Osprey” by inventor and company founder Lou Eppinger. Toward the end of World War I, its name was changed to Dardevle in honor of the “Teufelhunden”, or “devil dogs,” a nickname given to the 4th Marine Brigade by its German foes during the Battle of Belleau Wood in 1918.
The classic Dardevle is a distinctive red-and-white striped model, and is a deadly lure for pike, muskellunge, bass and trout…in fact, most fish that eat other fish. I have used a spoon to catch all these fish, and have also used one to land perch, crappie and smallmouth bass.
Frugal fisherman that I am, it didn’t make sense to spend upward of $5 on a lure, when I could make a pretty good substitute with a little effort. The raw material is easy to find: Old culinary spoons of various sizes can be found at thrift stores, garage sales or any place that sells junk. The other hardware and decorative items can be bought at any sporting goods or craft store store.
Here’s how to make a spoon lure:
1- spoon. The size depends on what you want to catch, or what you found at the thrift store or garage sale.
2 – steel split rings
1 – treble, single or weedless hook
1 – swivel
decorating paint and colored and/or reflective tape
Cut or break off the handle of the spoon (and save it for another project). Drill a small hole at either end of the remaining spoon bowl, and attach a split-ring through the holes. At the larger end, attach a hook through the ring; at the smaller end, attach the swivel, which will keep the lure action from causing line twist. Paint and/or attach reflective tape to the convex side of the lure.
I used my homemade spoons extensively on a nine-day canoe trip through the northern Minnesota Boundary Waters several years ago. On several lakes, the red and white with silver tape pattern was the number one producer on northern pike. If you are fishing the edges of weed beds, use a weedless hook with a bucktail or streamer, and get ready for a hit!
My inherent penny-pinching cheapness – frugality, I prefer to call it – came from my dad, who grew up during the Great Depression. But, this trait is valuable in the preparedness/survival field.
Save money on things you can make, and invest the savings on items you can’t compromise on.
Survival food is sustenance that can be made easily during a survival or emergency situation with simple, long-term storage food items, cooked outdoors, using off-the-grid methods.
Southwest Chicken Corn Chowder
3 Tbs dehydrated onions
1/2 tsp garlic granules
1 small can diced green chilies (or 2 large, fresh roasted chilies of your choice)(or use dehydrated)
2 c freeze dried corn or dehydrated
I c dehydrated or freeze dried potato dices
5 c water
1 c white cream sauce (Pick your favorite white cream sauce recipe)
2 tsp oregano
1 tsp cumin (ground)
1 Tbs chicken soup base
1-1/2 c freeze dried chicken (or canned chicken)
Tortilla chips for garnish, if desired
In a small stockpot, add water and bring to a boil. Add potatoes, onions, garlic, green chilies, oregano, cumin and chicken soup base. Simmer until vegetables are tender. Now add the freeze dried corn, cook for another 5 minutes. In a separate bowl, mix together 1-1/2 c waster and cream soup base until smooth, slowly add the cream soup base to soup mix that has been simmering. Once this is incorporated, add the freeze dried tortilla chips and additional cheese if desired.
– from “Jan’s Fabulous Food Storage Recipes: Converting Stored Foods Into Usable Meals”
In elk hunting, it’s the hope of bagging one that sucks us hunters out in crappy weather into remote mountainous areas. The day was bitterly cold in Idaho’s Selway wilderness, the snow was knee deep and there were miles between us and the nearest road.
Back at camp, the first order of business was to start the fire. I took out my waterproof match container and tried to light a strike-anywhere match on the side. All the matches had been replaced a couple months ago, but not one of the 20 in the container would light.
Then I tried my backup butane lighter. Because of the cold, it didn’t work either. Luckily, we had backup matches, and the fire was soon thawing us out.
“So suppose one of us had gotten hurt and couldn’t move – what would we do to start a fire?” I asked my partner. We agreed it could have been fatal.
That frigid hunt was in 1993, and for years, I experimented to find a reliable firemaking method.
In 2002, as part of a project for Boy Scout Troop 18 in Bend, Oregon, Dr. Jim Grenfell and I set out to find the ultimate, practical fire ignition method that would work for the average person.
Criteria to be tested were: ease of operation, ability to use one-handed (in the event of an injury), reliability, widespread availability, durability, practicality and ease of carry. We ruled out any items that seemed to rely on expensive, gee-whiz technology.
Over the course of the next several months, we laboriously tested and re-tested conventional firemaking methods. When something showed promise after initial testing, we turned the Scouts loose on it. If the method survived the torture test, we’d ask average outdoors people to try and then comment on the materials.
Here’s what we found:
Fire bow or other primitive wood friction methods were not even in the running. In a survival situation, even if you have the time and skills to make and use a fire bow, you’d first have to find the materials to build it. If rubbing two sticks together to fire was easy, or even just moderately difficult, the native peoples would never have developed ways to carry a live coal between camps!
The people who depended on the friction method for twirling up a fire carried their own specialized sticks with them. Even in a forest, you might not be able to find dry, suitable materials to build your kit.
Matches: Best case scenario: You should be able to make one fire with every match, right? That points out a real problem with matches: there is a finate number of them, and when they’re gone you’re out of luck. And what if you use all your matches to make one fire because of a low skill level?
Every brand and type of match we tried was unreliable as a survival tool. But if forced to make a recommendation, I’d say the best match choice is the REI Stormproof matches. They work well under many adverse circumstances, but you can only carry a few (10, with striker strip) in a standard match case.
The advantage is that most people can strike a match, and you can get them anywhere.
The disadvantages are that matches deteriorate over time and fail, even if they’re waterproof. While coating the heads with paraffin or other sealants will work for awhile, that doesn’t make the matches dependable. Most regular book matches are useless if damp, or if they’re even exposed to moisture.
Another critical aspect is the abrasive strip on the match box or book. If it gets damp, wet or worn out, the matches won’t work. And one brand of match may not ignite on another’s abrasive strip!
Even strike-anywhere matches don’t necessarily light when struck on an abrasive surface. Try standing in knee-deep snow, during a snow and sleet storm and finding a dry, abrasive surface to strike a match on!
Butane lighter: I carry a butane lighter in my pants pocket, another in my jacket pocket and a third in my pack. If a quick fire is needed, the idea is to flic a Bic and get the job done. A standard Bic lighter, according to my tests, will have about an hour’s worth of flame in it. But I don’t trust any butane lighter, and you shouldn’t either.
The Achilles heel is temperature. The boiling point of Butane is approximately -0.5 C at sea level, according to answers.com (This boiling point will drop with an increase in altitude given the reduced pressure).
This means that as the lighter nears freezing, less gas will be vaporized inside of the lighter and will make it hard to light. And the higher in elevation you are, the less chance you have for ignition!
My experiments show that placing a butane lighter in ice water (33 degrees) disables it almost instantaneously. If the lighter is removed from a one-minute ice water bath, and placed in a 70 degree area, several minutes will pass before it is warm enough to function.
This time varies on the size, brand, and make of the lighter. If you warm the lighter in your already warm hand, it can take at least 90 seconds under ideal conditions, and probably closer to four minutes, to make it functional.
So, if you fall into an icy river, wade to shore and desperately need to make a warm-up fire, your butane lighter won’t work for what seems like an eternity. In a situation where your hands are freezing, you may not be able to warm the lighter quickly. Your cold, numb fingers may not be able to work the wheel, either. By the time the lighter is warm enough to fire, you may not be able to use it.
Any lighter’s durability is suspect. All it takes is one grain of sand in the wrong place and the machinery is disabled.
And don’t forget this little tidbit: if you inadvertently drop your butane lighter into a campfire, an explosion will follow!
A favorite of the survival shows, the magnesium block with a flint stick on top, has some merit. The idea is to shave off pieces of magnesium into a small pile, then ignite it with a spark from the flint stick. The magnesium block is waterproof.
The problem in the system is that it takes a long time to scrape enough shavings off the block to ignite, and it’s really easy to scatter the pile if you bump it or the wind comes up.
A magnesium block is OK, but not your best choice.
Zippo-style lighters: For a while, this appeared to be the winner. I filled my Zippo with lighter fluid to the saturation point, then sat down to see how many fires it would make before it failed. Over the next two days, (this is probably a comment on my social life), the total number of lights was 974! When full of fluid, the Zippo worked immediately after a one-minute ice water bath. It came out the freezer overnight and fired on the second try. I sealed the hinge and opening with a piece of duct tape, and left it alone for a month, and it still fired.
But the Zippo-style lighter was wildly inconsistent in other areas. A fully saturated lighter dried out completely in three days in the desert. Having it sealed didn’t matter. And sometimes, for reasons I couldn’t figure out, the Zippo just wouldn’t light.
While you can fuel a Zippo with gasoline if need be, the system is too unreliable to recommend.
Ferro rods or sticks: I carry a ferrocerium stick on my key ring survival gear and have several in different parts of my gear. When used in combination with cotton balls saturated with petroleum jelly, the system is nearly foolproof. Put the cotton balls in a plastic case or ziplock bag.
But it takes some effort to learn how to use it, and like anything, there is no substitute for practice. Using a flint stick with only one hand can be done, but not as easily as using a butane lighter.
At the end of all this research, Grenfell and I concluded that there is no ultimate firemaking tool, and you should never rely on just one type.
So here’s the best recommendation: take at least three different methods. Environment factors that might disable one method should not affect all of them. So, include a fire tool out of each of these categories:
Ferro stick, cotton balls and petroleum jelly: If forced to pick just one method of firemaking, this would be
it. With practice, the combination is quick and reliable. But without a lot of practice and experimenting, you probably won’t be able to use it with one hand. If you’re disabled or unconscious, an untrained person might not be able to figure out how it works.
Butane lighter: If you’re lucky and can keep your lighter warm and dry, a butane lighter may take care of all your firemaking needs. Many kids can’t operate a butane lighter without practice, so some training may be needed with your juvenile outdoor partners.
REI Stormproof matches: Most folks don’t need instruction on how to light a match, so it’s a good idea to include matches. Invest in premium matches that may work when you need them, and rotate your stock regularly. Be sure to take along the abrasive strip from the match box, and store all matches in a waterproof container!
No matter which firemaking methods you use, take along charcloth and firestarter in a waterproof plastic bag! If your Zippo or butane lighter leaks or runs out of fuel, you can use the wheel and flint to make a spark that can be caught on a piece of charcloth. Also, any other ignition methods that involve sparks can be used with charcloth.
Firestarter should be compact, durable and easy to carry. It can make the difference between dying of hypothermia or getting a fire going with damp tinder and kindling!
One last suggestion: Include a road flare in your survival gear. It is a fantastic signaling tool, burns for at least 15 minutes and will ignite virtually anything!
You don’t have any wilderness experience, but you want some. So what do you take along to make sure you get back?
by Leon Pantenburg
One of the most common questions from wilderness newcomers is: “What gear will I need?”
And that’s a really good question! Walk through any sporting goods store and you’ll notice a bewildering array of gear, stuff, doo-dads, knick-nacks and junk. The buyer must decide which is which.
Depending on what store it is, and the salesperson, you could end up buying some very expensive – and unnecessary – items. In some stores, the salespeople work on commission and push high-priced gear. Or you might end up with a clerk who is covering the counter for somebody at lunch.
So, here’s where to start. The Boy Scouts of America have been preaching the gospel of survival common sense for 100 years. Who actually coined the term “Ten Essentials” is probably unknown. But there is no question that a facsimile of this basic list is the basis of all emergency preparedness kits. Get your Ten Essentials first.
Here is a list of the Boy Scout Outdoor Essentials, and product suggestions. Check out the links for more info on any of the topics. Look at these ideas, and then decide what will work best for you.
- Knife: The best knife is up to your personal preference, but you must have some sort of cutting edge along. The only survival knife you have is the one you have along!
- First Aid kit: (A first aid kit should go along on every outing, even if you never use it.)
- Extra clothing: (This will depend, of course, on the climate, time of year and where you are. Clothing needs for my high desert area are much different than for those people in the tropics.)
- Rain gear: You have two choices for protection from the rain: rainsuit or poncho. I use both, depending on the circumstances. I hiked the John Muir Trail with a poncho for rain protection. It rained nine days straight! The poncho kept me dry, even though I was expending a lot of energy to hike. I prefer a rainsuit while hunting or fishing, because it won’t flap in the wind, and a rainsuit offers better protection while sitting or standing for long periods of time. Decide what’s best for your needs.
- Water bottle: Water is an absolute necessity. I generally carry a Nalgene or other rigid water bottle to drink out of. In my pack, I’ll carry several soft bottles to replenish my Nalgene. The soft bottle are protected in the pack, and
when empty, can be rolled up. The softies weight virtually nothing, and take up hardly any space. And if you find a water source, and need to re-supply, you’ll have ample containers along.
I’m not a big fan of the water bladder systems, for no really good reason, but they are great for kids because the drinking tube encourages drinking. (And the novelty of using a bladder water system will keep them well-hydrated until the newness wears off!)
- Flashlight or headlamp: (I field-dressed a deer shortly after darkness fell one evening, holding my mini-maglite in my teeth. It was pretty gross – talk about drooling on your gear…) Anyway, ever since that experience I carry a good headlamp. A headlamp leaves your hands free if you are spelunking, end up walking out to the car in the dark, scrambling over rocks etc. Besides, if the lamp is on your head, chances are less that it might be dropped and broken.)
- Trail food: This is another personal preference. I like to make most of my own, because of my inherent cheapness and a Depression-era mentality inherited from my Dad. But in all my packs, I have several Clif bars, some jerky, sardines, and hardtack. The gourmet food comes from the Dutch oven. The emergency food is fuel.
- Matches and firestarter or other methods of ignition – you should have several different types.
- Sun protection Sunscreen is an item that needs to be in every survival kit, regardless if you’re in the arctic or the tropics. I carry the tube type, because it is less messy to apply.
- Map and compass A GPS is also useful, but not without a map and compass! Always include spare batteries for your GPS!
This is the bare bones list, and you should expand and add categories to fit your individual needs. For example, my Ten Essentials includes some method of shelter, such as a tarp, trash bag, bivey sack etc., and I always carry at least 50 feet of parachute cord or light rope, and four aluminum tent stakes.
Neither the scouts, nor I, recommend including fishing gear as a survival tool! Many of the items, such as the knife, first aid kit and Clif bars, have multiple memberships in my different specialized survival kits. Another necessity is the proper size spare batteries for any device that is battery-powered. It’s a good idea to get battery-operated items that all use the same size.
Your outdoor essentials list can also vary seasonally. I always include a snow shovel and insulite pad on my winter showshoe treks.
My summer and winter extra clothing choices would also be different. An extra stocking cap is always a good thing to have along, but in the summer, a broad-brimmed hat for sun protection is a necessity.
Some items you shouldn’t cut costs on are boots or hiking shoes; a sleeping bag, and a reliable shelter.
Use this Outdoor Essentials list to form the basis for your own survival kit, then read and research to get new ideas. Your survival kit, if it’s anything like mine, will probably end up being an evolving project. After every outing, think about what you used, what you didn’t need, and what you wished you had. Then adjust accordingly.
The best survival kit or gear in the world is worthless if you don’t know how to use it, and just having a survival kit won’t save you. In fact, it might give you a false sense of confidence that could be deadly!
Start your wilderness preparation by reading a credible survival book, or taking a class from a competent instructor. Be wary of any survival-related internet blog or website. Just because someone has a website, doesn’t mean they know anything! Don’t get your survival training off a prime-time survival “reality” show.
Then practice with your equipment. Learn how to make a fire, or pitch your shelter in your backyard. Try out your sleeping bag on a chilly night on the deck to make sure it’s going to be warm enough. Make your mistakes at home, so you won’t in the backcountry, where a screw-up can kill you.
And let this be your mantra: “My survival kit won’t save me. My equipment or gear can’t save me. I will save me.” And include common sense with every outing!
BOOK REVIEW: Survival Psychology by John Leach
One idea survival book authors may be able to agree upon is that mental attitude is critical. Countless documented cases prove your attitude and reaction to the situation, not your gear, is the most important factor is staying alive.
by Leon Pantenburg
Some twenty years before the rash of “reality” or “Survival” shows, or anybody had ever heard of Les Stroud or Bear Grylls, psychological studies resulted in a book about people’s reactions in emergency situations.
“Survival Psychology” by John Leach, PhD, of the University of Lancaster, England, was a groundbreaking study, that today is a reference source for many wilderness and urban survival bestsellers. If some of Leach’s writing or thoughts sound familiar, it is because you’ve read or heard them before!
Leach studied survivors’ reactions, including those of Union prisoners at the horrific Andersonville prison during the Civil War; to shipwreck survivors; to people who made it through plane crashes and natural disasters. Distilled down to one sentence, here’s what Leach found: Psychological responses to emergencies follow a pattern.
One goal of SurvivalCommonSense is to help you develop the survival mindset to stay alive. So, start with the baseline knowledge of what happens to people, mentally, in a survival situation.
Until you know what might happen in your mind, or in the heads of the people around you, there’s no way to come up with a plan to survive.
Survival situations bring out a variety of reactions – including some that make the situation worse.
Leach’s studies show that only 10 to 15 percent of any group involved in any emergency will react appropriately. Another 10 to 15 percent will behave totally inappropriately and the remaining 70 to 80 percent will need to be told what to do. The most common reaction at the onset of an emergency is disbelief and denial.
Here’s the typical disaster reaction progression, according to “Survival Psychology”:
Denial: The first reaction will probably be: “This can’t be happening to me!” But an emergency, disaster, accident or crash can happen to anyone, and it can result in a situation where your life is at risk.
This disbelief can cause people to stand around, doing nothing to save themselves. The 80 percenters in any survival situation will have to be ordered to help themselves.
Panic: Once you get past denial, there is a strong chance you may panic. This is when judgment and reasoning deteriorate to the point where it can result in self-destructive behavior. It can happen to anyone. To avert this problem, realize it may happen, and use the STOP mindset exercise.
Hypoactivity, defined as a depressed reaction; or hyperactivity, an intense but undirected liveliness: The depressed person will not look after himself or herself, and will probably need to be told what to do. The hyperactive response can be more dangerous because the affected person may give a misleading impression of purposefulness and leadership.
Stereotypical behavior: This is a form of denial in which victims fall back on learned behavior patterns, no matter how inappropriate they are. The Boss may decide to continue in that role, even though he/she has no idea of what to do. Sadly, the underling may also revert to that subordinate role, even though he/she may be better prepared mentally.
Anger: A universal reaction, anger is irrational. Rescue workers frequently come under verbal and physical attack while performing their duties.
A few years ago in Central Oregon, the Search and Rescue team rescued a man who had dumped his raft just before going over a waterfall. Miraculously, he saved himself by clinging to a mid-stream boulder. During the whole rescue effort, the rafter denied he was in trouble. After being plucked from the rapids, he flipped off the rescuers, and walked back to the parking lot. He never thanked anyone for saving his life.
Psychological breakdown: This could be the most desperate problem facing a victim, and this stage is characterized by irritability, lack of interest, apprehension, psycho-motor retardation and confusion. Once this point is reached, the ultimate consequence may be death.
So, according to Leach, one key to a “survival state-of-mind” is to be prepared and confident that you can handle an emergency. This brings up another deadly behavior pattern: lack of preparation. People don’t prepare for emergencies (see denial), Leach writes, for three reasons: Planning is inconvenient, preparations may be costly and an ingrained folk myth says to prepare for a disaster is to encourage it.
This is all too common in Central Oregon.
Last November, I was at Swampy Lakes snow park near Bend, getting ready for a snowshoe trek. An older couple pulled up next to me, tourists, apparently, from the looks of their inappropriate clothing and rental equipment. They had no survival gear of any kind that I could see.
They struggled to put their snowshoes on, then asked if there were any maps around. I gave them one of mine, and offered to orient it for them with my compass.
They also didn’t want the book of matches and a packet of firestarter I tried to give them. And here comes the quote that keeps the Search And Rescue teams busy:
“We’re just going out for quick outing,” the lady said. “We’re not going to do any of that wilderness survival stuff.”
…And she was absolutely right.
Peter Kummerfeldt’s gear has been tested and refined over five decades of hands-on, in-the-field use. He choses a saw – every time – over an axe or hatchet for use in the backcountry, Here’s why.
by Peter Kummerfeldt
Cutting tools, in all of their variations, have been an integral part of my life. In my world the term “cutting tool” encompasses knives, saws and shears.
It does not include axes and here’s why. Nobody knows how to use them safely anymore!
In grandpa’s day someone had to fell trees, chop the wood into manageable lengths and then split it into pieces suitable for the kitchen stove or the furnace. With rare exceptions that’s unnecessary today. People of that era became very proficient in the use of axes.
When I began my Air Force survival instructor career we were issued an axe and instructed in its use. We were expected to be able to cut the wood needed to keep our students warm in the field regardless of the weather conditions. We, too, became very proficient with axes.
Today the only time axes are used are those all too infrequent opportunities we have to take the family camping or perhaps during the annual hunting trip. The gear is gathered and off we go to the woods.
In the hands of an inexperienced person an axe, be it hand axe or larger, is an accident looking for a place to happen! And happen it will! Axe injuries are often severe sometimes including amputations! Leave your axes at home and take a good saw!
I have never found myself handicapped because I chose to carry a saw rather than an axe. I can’t think of anything that I can do with an axe that I can’t do with a saw.
How, you ask, are you going to drive a tent peg with a saw?
My answer: “I’ll cut a chunk of wood and use it as a mallet!”
There are many saws available some of which are very useful and others not so much. Let’s take a look at a variety of them starting with the least useful.
Survival Wire Saws. These holdovers from WWII are still found in many survival kits and are commonly sold separately under the Coghlan’s brand. Avoid them. They don’t work.
Pocket Chain Saws. There are several varieties of these but only one that works well – the Pocket Chain Saw. This saw comes packed in a tin containing not only the saw but also two steel handles as well. Unlike the others this saw will cut through a four- inch limb in a couple of minutes with minimal effort on your part. The downside of this device is that it takes two hands to make it function. Being able to operate any tool with only one hand or arm is a distinct advantage when the other limb is injured.
Folding Saws. Again there are many varieties of small folding blade saws. The smallest of these includes the three or four-inch long blades found on Swiss Army style pocketknives. The short blade length makes this type of saw totally impractical for producing firewood but may have some “improvising” utility. (Making needed “things” out of other available material.)
Longer folding saws may be more useful but again are limited by their short blade length. If you decide to carry one of these saws, select on that cuts both on the “pull” and on the “push.” Check the hinge carefully. Some are prone to loosen allowing the blade to fold back onto your hand causing injury.
Bow Saws. Generally bow saws have a longer blade than folding saws making them a more useful cutting tool. Two limiting factors should be considered: Bow saw blades are thin and narrow which makes them subject to bending and then breaking. Secondly, the height of the bow from blade to the top of the arch dictates the depth of the cut that can be made before the log being cut has to be re-positioned.
Non-folding Pruning Saws and those saws used for light tree limbing are very useful tools for cutting wood and snow blocks and for dismembering animal carcasses. An eighteen- inch blade length is ideal. This length is very efficient allowing for a full extension of your arm when sawing. The aggressive saw teeth do not bind up and quickly cut through large diameter wood without it having to be re-positioned. Beyond periodically tightening the screws that attach the handle to the blade and an annual sharpening this type of saw requires minimal maintenance.
Carpenter Saws, a longer version of the pruning saw, are equally suited to producing large quantities of firewood quickly. The drawback to a carpenter saw is length. Typically 24 inches long this type of saw is too long to fit in a backpack but is suitable for a vehicle survival kit or perhaps those who travel by horse.
Shears: When traveling beyond the limits of the tree line either by ascending to higher altitudes or moving toward the higher latitudes, where the only available fuel for fire will be scrubby willow and alder, shears work better than a saw for collecting firewood.
When selecting shears pick the kind where the upper blade cuts onto a flat surface – the anvil. The alternative, the type, where one blade passes by the other, tends to jam frequently. Select shears that ratchet rather than the type that require hand-strength to cut through apiece of wood.
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What happens during a medical emergency when dialing 911 is not an option? What is your next move?
by Leon Pantenburg
Most first aid and medical manuals will tell you to seek a medical clinic or hospital as quickly as possible when an emergency occurs. It’s sound advice.
But what happens when 911 isn’t an option? Maybe there has been a major earthquake, tsunami or natural disaster, and the roads are out, and Life Flight helicopters are grounded. The cavalry isn’t coming.
This is the concept behind “The Survival Medicine Handbook,” Third Edition, revised and expanded by Joseph Alton, MD and Amy Alton ARNP.
Better known as Doctor Bones and Nurse Amy, the duo is widely known in the preparedness industry as the go-to couple for all things medical. Their stated goal is: “To put a medically prepared person in every family for any disaster.”
First aid manuals are a dime a dozen, and come in all shapes, configurations and sizes. There is a plethora of information about taking care of injuries on the trail. But most of the ones I’ve seen, including those designed for Third World areas, always end up recommending the readers to seek modern medical help.
That’s where this manual is different. What happens if a disaster overwhelms emergency responders? Or if a catastrophe, such as a flood or earthquake, prevents entrance into an area?
The Survival Medicine Handbook is based on the assumption that outside help won’t be available.
Read it from that standpoint.
I found the book to be a wealth of information and a treasure trove of simple tips for improvising. The reader will learn such tips as:
Improvise butterfly and wound closure bandages – from duct tape. I knew how to use butterfly bandages from a first aid class I took. I carry duct tape in every emergency kit I have, and tried this technique as soon as I read about it. The concept works really well.
Make a water filter out of a plastic soft drink bottle.
Items to include in a survival dental kit.
How to handle a mass casualty event when medical personnel are overwhelmed.
Essential oils and herbal teas: In a long term survival scenario, nature may be your only pharmacy. It is imperative to learn the medical benefits of plants that may grow in your garden. A whole section is devoted to identifying and discussing some of these plants.
Allergic to bee and/or wasp stings? You probably won’t know until one stings you. Learn how to identify and treat anaphylactic shock.
Q: So how would this book fit into your preparedness planning?
A: By starting you thinking about survival scenarios where there is no outside help.
Dr. John Leach wrote in his groundbreaking “Survival Psychology” book, that in any emergency, 80 percent of the people present won’t have any idea what to do, 10 to 15 percent will do the wrong thing, and 10 to 15 percent will act appropriately. This small group will react, based on what training they have had.
You want to be in the group which is in the know. A good place to start is by reading this book. It is full of practical, sound advice on how to handle many basic medical emergencies.
But no book is a substitute for a first aid class. The best investment in your family’s well-being is to have several members trained in basic first aid. One is not enough. The trained person might be the one needing help.
The next investment should be in some medical books – not downloads – that can be used as reference materials when the electricity goes down and the batteries run out.
I review a lot of preparedness books, and my wife generally peruses them, too. After the publication has been read and reviewed, it is generally donated to the local library.
But, at my wife’s suggestion, we’re keeping “The Survival Medical Handbook, Third edition,” and it will go into our survival/preparedness library. We’ll be ordering another as a gift to friends who live part-time on an isolated ranch in the Oregon high desert.
That’s the highest recommendation I can give a book. Get one.
Have to improvise a wound closure device? Try duct tape.
by Leon Pantenburg
The more you learn, it seems, the more you realize how much more there is to learn.
That’s what happened after my first Wilderness First Aid class for Boy Scout leaders and volunteers. I got home after completing the class, and went through my first aid kit with a fine tooth comb. I threw out some things, but added many more.
One item I added was Steri-Strips. These are an H-shaped adhesive strip designed to close wounds. They adhere to the sides of the wound to pull it together. This, in some cases, can eliminate the need to suture or puncture the skin.
But suppose you run out or have to improvise this wound closure?
I was reading the third edition of “The Survival Medicine Handbook” by Joseph Alton, MD and Amy Alton ARNP when I found this simple method for improvising a steri-strip out of duct tape.
Here’s what you do:
Before doing anything, clean the wound and the area around it as best you can. This is where individual alcohol or other sterile wipes come in really handy.
Measure the wound to be closed.
Start out with a large size piece of duct tape.
Cut an “H” out of the tape.
Fold the center tabs inward – the idea is to create an area that won’t stick to the wound.
Trim the ends to fit the area.
Draw the edges of the wound together, and close it.
Naturally, you don’t want to rely on a makeshift bandage unless it’s absolutely necessary. Get some first aid training, make a complete emergency medical kit, and practice using it.
But this technique with duct tape might come in really handy at some point. Let’s hope you never have to use it!