All-Natural, Off-Grid Tricks For Eliminating Mice And Rats

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All-Natural, Off-Grid Tricks For Eliminating Mice And Rats

One of the more frustrating nuisances to deal with on the homestead are rodents. The three main you will normally see are mice, rats and packrats.

Here are some tips in dealing with, discouraging and ridding yourself of each of them.


Mice come in diverse sizes, types and colors throughout the U.S., but most are from the Deer Mice genus. Deer Mice range in territory across the U.S. and are very adaptive to their surroundings. Usually a gray to reddish brown, they are called Deer Mice because of their white feet and underbelly, as well as their quick speed and agility (like a deer). They prefer more agricultural areas to build a home, so your new homestead with lush crops makes a perfect place to build an adjoining home with an unlimited supply of food.

They aren’t likely to dig underground to make a nest or den, but they rather prefer to find a suitable already complete and secure spot to nest in, such as holes in a hollow tree or fence post, scrap lumber piles, trash piles and firewood bins. They will also build a nest under logs or in tunnels left by other animals. Deer mice, and mice in general, take materials like stuffing from upholstery, string and cloth to build suitable nests. They will build a cache of food including seeds, nuts and plant leaves to nibble on; they have a sweet tooth when it comes to corn.

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The best way to discourage mice from taking up residence is to keep things tidy to eliminate nesting spots and eliminate feed whenever possible. A cat or a dog that enjoys hunting mice are usually effective in keeping numbers down, and storing animal feed in chew-proof containers works to deny them an easy feeding source.

Getting rid of mice can be troublesome, as they are prolific breeders and can increase their numbers quickly. We have had the best success with both glue traps on the floor baited with dog food and snap traps baited with peanut butter. Mice aren’t much for climbing but are surprising agile jumpers, and prefer to run along the base of the walls. Place the traps at a corner facing outward where they can run directly to them and be vigilant on checking them every day. You can catch more than one in a day by continually checking them and resetting as needed.


On the homestead, you most likely won’t see the same rats as you would in your favorite Hollywood horror film. They are horrible to deal with, but they may not run in packs like the groups in your favorite sewer scene. Common Norway or Roof Rats are the variety usually found on the homestead. They like to enter structures through openings in the foundation, through the attic, and will cross tree branches that come too close to structures that need to be cut back further. Another infestation sign could be the entrance to an underground burrow. A simple hole near your foundation could be the entrance to a large den containing more rats than you know about. They leave signs of chewing on materials such as soft metals, plastic and wood. Their main food source is vegetation and grain that they can find on the homestead, and their tastes can change based on what becomes available. You may see their droppings or smell their urine left along their normal nightly trails.

Unlike mice, rats are more likely to attack small livestock such as chicks, quail and even rabbits. Along with the usual sign of droppings, you may see rabbits with missing/chewed off toes, chicks that go missing or even wings that have been ripped off.

Getting rid of a rat or many rats should be done with trapping, as cats don’t always discourage these large rodents. Common rats aren’t climbers, so all traps should be placed in a hidden floor location in a corner with the trap opening facing out and ready to catch the first rat that comes by. Add a little fragrant bait like peanut butter or meat to enhance their curiosity to see what the trap holds for them.


Packrats are like a super rodent. Also known as a woodrat, they have strength that smaller rodents don’t and they have unique characteristics that identify what type they are based on how they operate. Packrats typically are very elusive. They mostly operate under the cover of night searching for food and nesting materials unless disturbed during the daylight hours. Their main attraction outside of finding feed is to build a nest or home. Where other rodents try to use natural materials and burrow into something cozy, packrats like to grab the oddest building materials they can find.

They are particularly fond of shiny objects and will drop what they are carrying and constantly trade for something more interesting and shinier. They will take string, grass, and sticks just like other rodents, but they have a penchant for taking things you left out like a gift. We’ve had packrats steal scrub brushes, pencils, yarn, scissors, pliers, rocks from the driveway, and wiring from the engine harness of our farm truck. They aren’t afraid to take what you left out. Just like a normal rat, you may see their droppings or smell their urine along their normal running trails.

The best way to discourage Packrats is to eliminate areas in which they might try and build their nests. This means keeping lumber piles or stacks of pallets away from the home or outbuildings. Check unused buildings regularly for packrat activity, and keep a bag of mothballs in the engine bay of unused vehicles as they are repelled by the smell.

Packrats are climbers, so dealing with them is best done by trapping it in a large trap baited with food or a shiny object. Place the trap along a known running path for them. Packrats aren’t suspicious of changes to their surroundings, so a new trap doesn’t need to be hidden like it does for a common rat. Be warned that because they are strong, the trap should be tied to something they can’t carry away. We have seen a packrat stand on its hind legs and run away with a trap attached to a foot. Also, be prepared to deal with an angry packrat the next time you catch one. They will lead with a foot to take the bait rather than their head, so you’ll most likely catch them by a foot than their head. Disposal of them will be up to you.

Of course, dealing with any of these rodents after they have established a nest or burrow is reactive, so the best prevention is to not give them the opportunity to start a home near your home or outbuildings. Check your foundation for cracks or openings they can get into, and find a new place to live. Always look for new chew marks, holes that could signal a new burrow, and always put away shiny tools that can attract a packrat. Prevention is your best defense against these invasive rodents.

What advice would you add? Share it in the section below:

3 Pests That Might Eat Your Stockpile Before You Do

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3 Hidden, Unseen Dangers In Your Food Stockpile

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What can be worse than to open up your stockpile, only to find that all of your food supplies have been eaten by something else?

Stockpiling supplies isn’t enough. You need to protect all of them from the pests that could leave your family hungry in a time when food will be scarce.

Venezuelans were eating dogs, cats and pigeons in 2016 because they couldn’t find any food. The Spanish and the Portuguese had to resort to food banks after the economic collapse of 2008. Incredibly, 1 in 7 Americans is on food stamps.

Unless you want to throw money away on food, I recommend you know what the biggest enemies of your stockpile are, and then take these easy steps to protect your food from all of them.

1. Rats and mice

The first things everyone thinks of when they hear the word “pests” are mice and rats. They can wreak havoc in your pantry, particularly if the only thing protecting your Mylar bags is 5-gallon plastic buckets. They will chew away plastic without a problem.

Now, there are various types of mice traps out there, including a few that are really, really cheap. But that doesn’t guarantee that your stockpile will be safe. The first thing you should do is put those plastic buckets into larger, metal buckets.

The only thing about metal buckets is that they’re pretty pricey. A 6-gallon metal bucket with a lid is more than $20 on Amazon … so you’ll probably only put some of your foods in them at first, while you also focus on the other ways to keep mice out of your pantry. (Figuring out the entry point and isolating the room, setting up mice traps, etc.)

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A better solution is to get one or more of those galvanized trash cans. They’re about $35 each, but they can fit more buckets. Keep in mind that metal containers are more fire-resistant than plastic ones, meaning that in case of a house fire, your stockpile could get away unharmed.

3 Hidden, Unseen Dangers In Your Food StockpileTip: don’t forget to keep pet food the same way you keep your own. Pests will be drawn to it if you leave dry pet food in original packaging.

2. Pantry moths

The good news is that moths have a harder time getting inside containers than do mice. So, if you have #10 cans or glass jars, so long as they are properly sealed, they should be enough.

Nevertheless, having them in your pantry requires to always be careful not to keep containers open. There are plenty of tricks known by pest control folks on how to take care of them. For example, one gentleman I read on a survivalist board suggested using pheromone traps and a portable steamer to make sure not only the moths but also their eggs are removed from your pantry. Sounds like good advice.

3. Ants

Out of all the pests we talk about in this article, you’re probably going to hate the sugar ant the most. That’s because it’s attracted to comfort foods (such as honey) as well as sugar. Some of the things you can do to get rid of ants include:

  • Block as many entryways as you can. Yes, I realize they are really small and can come in through many different places, but this will decrease the chances of them being successful.
  • Ants hate vinegar and lemon juice, so mix a 50-50 solution with water when you clean your pantry. They help clear those trails that they leave to attract other ants.
  • Sprinkle cinnamon, mint or black pepper throughout your pantry; ants do not like them.

Of course, it isn’t just comfort foods that ants like. Pretty much any type of food will attract them. I realize you know how to keep your 5-gallon plastic buckets safe but don’t forget the extra items you bring to your pantry, such as pemmican or seeds. Literally everything should be kept in airtight containers.

Spending a few extra dollars on ways to keep pests at bay could save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars in the long run.

What advice would you add? Share it in the section below:

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Video: Rodent-Proofing A Shelter

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heckuva rodent infestation

Sanitation is an important factor in staying healthy in rural homesteads and survival scenarios, and one formidable obstacle for the survival medic is the presence of rodents like rats and mice. When these animals are introduced into new areas, they cause a significant amount of environmental and economic damage. Whether in good times or bad, It makes sense to take measures to prevent rodent infestation in the home and to eliminate those already there.   In this video, Joe Alton, MD discusses rodents and how to prevent them from being unwanted guests in your home, shelter, or retreat.

To watch, click below:

Wish you the best of health in good times or bad,


Joe and Amy Alton



Joe Alton MD        Amy Alton ARNP


Find out more about rodents, the disease they cause, and 150 other medical topics in grid-down settings by checking out our Third Edition of the Survival Medicine Handbook: The Essential Guide for When Medical Help is Not on the Way, available at Amazon. Also, fill those holes in your medical supplies with Nurse Amy’s entire line of kits and individual items at You’ll be glad you did.

5 Homemade Rat Traps to Keep Your Food Storage Rodent-Free

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5 Homemade Rat Traps to Keep Your Food Storage Rodent-Free A rat in the pantry is a quick way to ruin your day. They can gnaw through containers like they arent even there and make short work of all your hard work. Luckily for us, the same drive that pushes them to infiltrate our homes makes …

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These Are the Diseases That Will Run Rampant When the SHTF

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Most people like to think that if society collapsed, the most common cause of death would be at the hands of other people. They like to imagine that the apocalypse will be filled with action packed shootouts and marauding gangs of looters. Obviously there would be a lot of violence if society collapsed, but the truth of the matter is that violence would be a secondary concern.

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This is evident if you only take a quick look throughout history. During the most tumultuous times in human history, it wasn’t violence that killed the most people, but disease and starvation. Even during war, when violence reached its apex, most of the soldiers didn’t die from violence, and that remained the case until the 20th century. During the American Civil War for instance, for every three soldiers who died on the battlefield, five died of disease.

It’s important to remember that if society were to collapse, it would be tantamount to traveling back in time to when modern amenities didn’t exist. And without those amenities, there are a ton of pathogens that can kill you. So before you blow your entire prepping budget on guns and body armor, consider some of the many unglorified ways that the collapse of society could cut you down.

These are the Seven Likely Causes of Death When the SHTF

1. Superbugs

The world was a hell of a scary place before the invention of antibiotic medications. Any nick or scratch could lead to an untreatable infection, and communicable diseases often ran rampant. Nowadays our antibiotics can treat these diseases, but just barely. As various strains of bacteria become immune to these treatments, we’re rapidly approaching a post-antibiotic world that looks an awful lot like the old world. If society collapses then these souped up diseases are going to be unleashed without any inhibitions. Tuberculosis, staph, typhoid, strep throat, MRSA, and E. Coli will become all too common.

2. Water-Related Illness

If society collapses, people are going to suddenly find themselves reliant on local water sources, and unfortunately those water sources are going to be contaminated. It’s often the case that natural ponds and stream are already unsafe to drink, but the same disaster that cuts off your tap is going to make that water even more dangerous.

Without running water, people will be forces to leave their waste in their immediate environment, where it will likely mingle with local water sources. This among other unsanitary conditions can cause a whole host of water-borne diseases including gastroenteritis, Hepatitis A, intestinal parasites, Diphtheria, cholera, typhoid, and even polio. Here are 9 common water-borne illnesses to prepare for in a disaster scenario.

3. Mosquitoes and Rats

It takes all the might of modern civilization just to keep certain pests in check. But when the garbage trucks stop showing up and the swimming pools turn green, you can bet that the rats and mosquitoes will proliferate like crazy. And they’ll be carrying diseases that are the stuff of nightmares. Rats will carry the hantavirus, leptospirosis, salmonellosis, and the plague; and in North America, mosquitoes will most likely be carrying dengue fever. Here are some tips to rat-proof your preparedness supply closet.

4. Cold Weather

A lot of people will be forced to go without adequate shelter after the collapse. So when winter arrives, you’re going to see a lot more weather related ailments. We’re all very familiar with flu season, but most people don’t realize that cold weather conditions can spawn numerous diseases, most of them respiratory related. Between the lack of sunlight, people crowding indoors, and the poor circulation caused by cold weather, there will be more cases of strep throat, pneumonia, croup, bronchiolitis, ear infections, and the stomach flu. To prepare for this, understand that hospitals and medical care may not be available (or too dangerous to get to). You may want to consider storing natural remedies, herbal poultices and tinctures to assist in these cold weather ailments.

5. Malnutrition

In a roundabout way, malnutrition would probably be the leading cause of disease after the SHTF. That’s because your diet is tightly linked to the quality of your immune system, so if you’re not getting enough calories, protein, vitamins or minerals, you’re more susceptible to every ailment under the sun. However, malnutrition is most associated with conditions like scurvy, rickets, pellagra, goiters, and beriberi.

6. Cadavers

The collapse of society would destroy every kind abundance that the modern world provides us, and in return, the only thing that would be in abundance are the dead. Dead bodies, especially the kind that were infected with disease to begin with, pose a serious health threat. Without a functioning society, and with bodies piling up faster than they can be buried or cremated, these cadavers would litter our towns and cities, and would most likely pose a serious threat to local water supplies.

7. Disease

Overshadowing many of these medical ailments will be disease. In fact, many believe that disease would be the real killer if the world fell apart and would dwarf the number of casualties caused by violence. Diseases are opportunists and tend to surface at a time the conditions are right for them to flourish. A long-term emergency would be just the right time, wouldn’t you say? These 10 diseases could become common medical emergencies. Make sure you have a well supplied medical closet and a sick room prepared for these issues.

There is a Silver Lining

As bleak as that sounds however, there is a silver lining. Prepping to prevent disease and infection is a lost less intimidating, and a lot more affordable than preparing to face-off against your fellow-man.

In fact, it’s as simple as stocking up on very general supplies that you should be accumulating anyway. Having plenty of food, toiletries, basic medical supplies, and water purification tools, will go a long way toward keeping you safe from the ravages of disease.


The Prepper’s Blueprint: A Step-by-Step Preparedness Guide to Get Through Any Disaster

The One-Year Pantry, Layer by Layer

The Prepared Home: 50 Essential Items to Put in Your Ultimate Survival Medical Kit

52 Weeks to Preparedness: An Emergency Preparedness Plan For Surviving Virtually Any Disaster

The 4 Most Likely Ways You Can Die If the SHTF

Joshua Krause was born and raised in the Bay Area. He is a writer and researcher focused on principles of self-sufficiency and liberty at Ready Nutrition. You can follow Joshua’s work at our Facebook page or on his personal Twitter.

Joshua’s website is Strange Danger

This information has been made available by Ready Nutrition

Bye, Bye Rats: The 7 Best Homestead Dogs For Vermin Control

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Bye, Bye Rats: The 7 Best Homestead Dogs For Vermin Control

Jack Russell terrier. Image source:


Many breeds of dogs were originally bred to be “ratters” — that is, their ancestors were bred to hunt and kill vermin.

In fact, many of these dogs are terriers. Terrier is from the Latin word “terra,” which means “for earth.” Most terriers “go to ground” after burrowing animals, and these dogs have been used on farmsteads for centuries. Hunting rats is their specialty, but some were bred to hunt foxes and badgers as well as moles and other animals.

When you think of the terrier breeds, words like tenacious, tough and determined come to mind. Now you know why. These guys needed to be feisty and rugged to go into a burrow after vermin, drag them out and kill them.

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These breeds include border terriers, cairn terriers, dachshunds, Jack Russell terriers, miniature schnauzers, rat terriers, west highland white terriers and others. These are short-legged, well-muscled little dogs built for the job at hand. Most have a short, rough coat to shed dirt if left natural, and a short thick tail which was used as a “handle” to pull the dogs out of burrows. Most do not quit easily, so owners would grasp their tail to encourage them to abandoned their quarry.

Let’s take a look at the best seven “vermin-control” dogs:

1. Border terriers – Border terriers originated in the hills between England and Scotland. Like many of the terriers, they have a waterproof coat. They also have a wiry outer coat with a soft undercoat, perfect for working outside in the damp wet weather of their homeland. They average 11 to 16 inches tall and coincidentally are usually 11 to 16 pounds. They can be good family dogs if well socialized.

Bye, Bye Rats: The 7 Best Homestead Dogs For Vermin Control

Cairn terrier. Image source:

2. Cairn terriers – Cairn terriers get their name from the Scottish Gaelic word “cairn,” which which means a human-made stack of stones – due to their ability to push through these stone fences while going after vermin. They originated in the Isles of Skye around the year 1500. Also a small, stout dog, they range in height from 9 to 13 inches and weigh 13 to 18 pounds.

3. Dachshunds – Dachshunds are a German breed of dog. Their name, translated, means “badger dog.” They were used as a scent hound to locate and chase badgers, flushing them out of burrows. There are now three coat types – wire, smooth and long haired. They are typically 8 to 11 inches tall and 11 to 20 pounds. Most believe the original dogs used to hunt badgers were larger than is typical of modern dachshunds.

4. Jack Russell terriers – Jack Russell terriers were originally bred for fox hunting. They are an English breed named for the Revered John Russell, who enjoyed promoting these little dogs for that task. They are agile and athletic, going anywhere their prey will lead them. They are about 10 to 15 inches tall and 15 to 18 pounds.

Bye, Bye Rats: The 7 Best Homestead Dogs For Vermin Control

Miniature schnauzer. Image source:

5. Miniature schnauzer – Miniature schnauzers are of German descent. They are said to be a cross of the poodle and standard schnauzers that were bred for as a Jack-of-all-trades-type farm dog, helping with herding as well as vermin. The miniature schnauzers are intelligent versatile dogs with the terrier attitude. They typically range from 10 to 15 inches tall and 10-18 pounds.

6. Rat terriers – Rat terriers are an American breed that was bred for a farm and hunting companion. Traditionally they excelled at squirrel and rabbit hunting due to their speed. They were common during the 20s and 30s on many small farms. They can be 10 to 18 inches and 10 to 25 pounds.

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7. West highland white terriers – Westies, as they are commonly called, originated in Scotland in the mid-1500s. They are a cousin to the cairn terriers and used mainly as ratters. Westies have a wiry outer coat and soft dense undercoat to keep them warm and dry. They range from 9 to 11 inches tall and 15 to 20 pounds.

These are just a few of the most popular breeds that have been used on farmsteads for centuries to help control the rodent population. Many people today have farm cats for that purpose, but the problem lies in the fact that most cats are not as reliable as dogs. Cats seem to hunt when the mood strikes, whereas most dogs find great joy in the adventure.

The terrier group as a whole is independent, smart and rugged. Their personalities reflect their hunting heritage; many people would call them stubborn.

To enjoy a terrier, you need to provide them with plenty work and socialize them with small pets and children. They can be great dogs, alerting you to anything out of the ordinary. Needless to say, they enjoy digging and exploring, even it is in your garden of prized vegetables or flowers. If you are considering a farm companion that barks at anything amiss and can dispatch ground animals in the blink of an eye, then try terriers.

What advice would you add on terriers and dogs who chase after ground varmints? Share your tips in the section below:

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How Rats Crawl Up Toilets

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how rats crawl up toiletsMany have heard the old myth about snakes wriggling up toilet pipes, some even hearing the old wives’ tale about always being sure to double check the toilet before having a seat, but is the same thing true for rats? The short answer is yes.

Every year, the city of Washington DC gets at least a couple of calls about rodents in civilian toilets, making for a trend that has become all-too familiar with the pest control experts in the area. The problem isn’t too common, but the reasoning behind it is as logical as math. Toilet pipes are connected to the sewer and because sewers are essentially the headquarters for rats, they make for easy gateways into the interior plumbing of our home – but what happens next?

Since rats don’t mind the touch of slime on them or the taste of garbage, they definitely don’t mind crawling up the maze-like structure that makes up the inner pipes of a toilet. Much of this piping is submerged underwater, but because rats are semi-aquatic and excellent swimmers, they’re actually able to dip and dive through the watery tubing, even teaching themselves through human-like techniques on how to come up for breath in times of tight squeezes or crisis.

Another big factor that allows rats to do this is the flexibility of their ribs, allowing them to squeeze through narrow areas that are smaller than their actual bodies. In tight spaces, rats can easily slip out by automatically constricting their ribcage and using their sharp claws to either push forward or pull out.

Although the likelihood of this happening is more expected in larger cities with tons of food lying around, the fact that it can and does actually happen at all is enough to make anyone’s skin crawl.

Watch the video below to see how rats crawl up toilets


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Trouble Within: Why Pest Control Is Key to Your Survival

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Hope for the best, and prepare for the worst. That’s the survivalist’s mantra. When gathering and storing resources for your family’s protection, it’s important to always have one eye on the worst case scenario. It’s also important to be realistic about where the biggest threats to your safety can come from. An attack can happen […]

The post Trouble Within: Why Pest Control Is Key to Your Survival appeared first on Expert Prepper Blog.

Garden Pests – And How to Get Rid of Them

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Rabbit in gardenYou love your garden and all of the vegetables growing in it. Unfortunately, so do the critters living in your neighborhood. Whether you have deer chewing on your tomato plants, birds stealing your strawberries or mice, rats and raccoons walking off with your carrots, you’ll need to do something to protect your crops. After all, you’re trying to grow vegetables, not provide food for  every creature in the neighborhood.

Deer – Deer will wander into your garden in the evenings, early mornings and even the middle of the night, so you may not see them until they have already damaged your drops. You can protect your garden by erecting a tall fence that’s made of wood or chunks of stone, since deer don’t like to jump solid fences. If this is out of the question, then hanging bars of soap from area trees or tying them to stakes sticking out of the ground will keep the deer away.

Rabbit – Rabbits are cute, but they’ll lose their cuteness once you realize that they’ve eaten all of the low-hanging leaves off of your vegetable plants. The best way to keep rabbits out of your garden is by installing a very low fence that is around 2-feet tall all around your growing area. If you have cats, sprinkling some used cat litter around the borders of your garden will also scare away rabbits, since cats are their natural predators. The downfall to this is that it might attract all of the feral cats in your neighborhood.

Birds – Birds like to eat ripe berries right off of your strawberry plants and raspberry bushes. They will also eat any invading insects, which makes them kind of a mixed blessing. Rather than scare off birds altogether, simply protect your fruit plants by covering them with netting. This will prevent the birds from getting to the ripe fruit, but make it easy for you to pick the fruit, as all that you need to do is remove the netting. If you don’t want the birds around at all, setting up plastic replicas of their predators (large owls and snakes) around your garden will scare them away.

Raccoons – Raccoons sneak into your garden at night and eat all that they can get their paws on. Motion-sending lights can scare them off, as will recordings of loud noises. You can also place a low fence around your entire garden (similar to the one that will prevent rabbits from getting in) or place particularly appealing plants in a cage to keep raccoons from getting to them. If none of these measures work, contact your local animal control officers about setting up humane traps to catch the raccoons.

Mice and Rats – Mice and rats will eat just about any fruits or vegetables that they can reach. Rats are mainly nocturnal, but mice will venture out at all times of the day. You will know that you have them when you find small droppings around your garden and bite marks on your vegetables. Placing a series of humane traps around your garden should take care of these pests.

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 Pic by see phar