If you’re like most preppers, you’re already a stockpiling pro. You’ve got food, supplies, a bugout bag, the perfect weapons, and a great plan. Chances are high that you’ve also begun stockpiling ammunition like a reality TV hoarder. Having a million rounds of ammo is great, but without proper storage those potential projectiles will be […]
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I’ve been busy over the […]
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When most people think about organizing their ammo stockpiles, they do so based on cartridge or shell type. For example, if you have four or five different types of ammo, you may be inclined to store them all in separate containers.
While this method seems practical at first glance, you may find that other methods will work better. In particular, you should not keep all ammo of the same type together in the same location.
Let’s say you have five different ammo types, and ten boxes of each one. You also have five ammo cans that you can use to store the ammo. Instead of putting all of one type in each can; put only two boxes of each type per can. In this way, you will have five cans of diversified ammo.
Here’s why this arrangement has a few advantages:
- If you have to move quickly, grabbing even one can will ensure that you have at least some ammo for any gun that you are able to bring along.
- It will be much easier to store your ammo in different locations without having to worry about which one holds the ammo you need at some point in the future. As long as you are able to retrieve one can, you will know that you have at least some usable ammo on hand.
- You will find it much easier to practice with all of your weapons on a regular basis. Just make it a point to use all of the ammo in each can and you will never have a gun laying around that hasn’t been fired in years because you put the ammo in some place that isn’t easy to get to, or worse yet, you forgot the location.
What a Good Storage Location Is
Good storage locations for ammo aren’t as easy to find as you might think. Many people try to bury ammo stockpiles under their home, stash boxes behind closet walls, and even put ammo cans under their bed. While these places may be safe, dry, and cool, they are also the first places thieves, rioters, and others will look if they invade your home.
When hiding ammo, you should make it your business to find locations that:
- Are easy to defend. It is very important to make sure that you can arrange zones of fire around your stockpile. Always consider that people may stumble onto your stockpile by accident, or they may even be watching you as you put items in the stockpile or remove them. It is always best to choose a place where you have an advantage in terms of defending the area if needed.
- Choose a location where you can make more than one entry point. If someone does find your stockpile, you should be able to enter through another location and neutralize the invaders
- Look for an area where it is safe to destroy the ammo if needed. When you know all is lost, there is no point to letting thieves and rioters steal all you worked so hard for. It is better to have the stockpile in a place where you can destroy it rather than see it be stolen.
- It should be easy to move the ammunition out of the area and into another one with ease.
- There should be enough room to expand if needed.
- You should be able to keep surveillance on the area from a distance without being detected.
- The area should be hard to spot by satellite or other overhead scanning systems that might be used to locate the stockpile. In addition, you should also be able to get to the location without being easily spotted.
- High temperatures and moisture are extremely damaging to ammo. Try to pick a place that is as cool and dry as possible. If you have to choose between cool and dry, choose the area that is cool, and then make sure that the ammo itself is packed carefully away in moisture and water proof containers.
Choosing the Right Containers
Today, there are many different kinds of containers that you can use to store ammo.
If you are budget conscious, then go for the metal ammo cans or boxes. You can purchase them new or used at surplus stores as well as at gun shops and gun shows. Before you buy an ammo can, make sure it is free of rust, holes, and other signs of corrosion.
The lid should fit properly and create a waterproof seal.
It may also help to have some extra room in each box, especially if you haven’t purchased all of the guns yet that will be part of your permanent stockpile.
When choosing containers for ammo, think about what will happen in those first hours after a major crisis occurs.
To be fair, if you aren’t on a heavily guarded estate with plenty of supplies and acreage, you might have to leave your home and the majority of your stockpile behind. This is why your ammo storage plans must also include ensuring you can bug out with enough supplies to meet your needs.
Have a dedicated backpack or ammo pouch with at least five boxes of ammunition for the one gun you will absolutely take with you no matter where you go.
If this is your everyday carry gun (a.k.a. EDC), then by all means, go ahead and carry the bug out ammo with you as well. The backpack or pouch should be comfortable to wear and not be noticeable to others. Make sure that the internal pockets are waterproof, yet breathable so that moisture does not collect in the bag.
You will also need to inspect the pack on a regular basis to make sure that the constant weight of heavy ammo rubbing against the fabric does not lead to wear that will let water get into the ammo.
Many mid to advanced level preppers store away gunpowder in the hopes that they will be able to reload ammo in a time of need.
Storing gunpowder is not as easy or as safe as storing away cartridges and shells. Because gunpowder releases gases upon ignition, you should never store it away in an ammo can.
If the building the can is stored in catches fire, or the temperature reaches a critical point for some other reason, the ammo can will explode and cause major damage.
Also avoid storing gunpowder in the house or in a building for the same reason.
It is best to store gunpowder in a dedicated and well built outdoor magazine where it will be heavily guarded and safe to be around.
Supplies and Equipment to Have Onhand
Overall, there aren’t many supplies that you need to keep on hand to store ammo and keep it in good condition for years on end.
Regardless of where or how long you are storing the ammo away for, each container should have a few packets of desiccant in it. This will help reduce moisture and condensation.
Waterproof Ziploc Bags
Every can should also have a few extra waterproof Ziploc bags and a permanent marker. If a box happens to break or is damaged, then you can always put the cartridges or shells in the bag to keep them safe.
It is also important to store away clean rags so that you can clean ammo off if needed.
When you first buy an ammo can, you may not think it is very heavy. By the same token, lifting one or two boxes of ammo may not seem like much. Once you start adding a few dozen boxes to the can, you will find it very hard to push the can from one place to another let alone pick it up to move it.
This is why you will need to have a pull cart or some other kind of wheeled bed that you can use to move ammo cans from one place to another.
The cart should have some kind of pole or extension that you can raise up and use as a post for a pulley system. All you have to do from there is store some rope in the can and a pulley that can be attached to the pole.
At the very least, if you have to lift the ammo can into the back of a truck, you will be able to do so faster and with less risk of injury to yourself or others.
Video first seen on AnalyticalSurvival.
Why Storing Multiple Ammo Caches Is Important
Let’s say you are a homeowner, but you don’t have much property; or you rent an apartment and also don’t have access to much land. Let’s also say that you have decided you are going to bug in regardless of what happens in your local area and in the rest of the country.
Many people that decided to sit it out through a hurricane or other natural disaster can tell you that one bad situation was enough to last them a lifetime.
While some people may have been lucky and got through several storms with no problems, a major social collapse is a very different and far longer lasting scenario. As a result, it is best to try and make at least some bug out plans and factor ammo storage needs into those plans.
Most people that plan to bug out after a major crisis actually have five or six locations that are located at different distances from their current position. These places may be the homes of family members or friends, or even areas where they have visited and feel they can live comfortably.
No matter where people are planning to bug out to, they will usually set up caches of supplies that can be accessed along the way.
When it comes to ammo, small caches like this in multiple and diverse places is just as important as food, water, and medicine. Just make sure that the areas you choose are safe and hard to find by others. If you do leave ammo with friends or family members, make sure that these are people you can trust regardless of what is going on.
Even if you are absolutely certain that you aren’t going to bug out, it will be to your advantage to store away ammo in several different locations.
If you are storing ammo in your own home, make sure that you have five or six locations that are hard to find, and one that is somewhat more visible.
You can use the more visible cache as a means to lure invaders into a zone of fire, or allow it to be taken in the hopes that invaders won’t go looking for the more important items in your stockpile. You can also set up snares and other booby traps that will neutralize invaders.
Never use explosives or anything that will start a fire near the ammo cans or you can wind up making the situation even worse.
Rotate Your Ammo
No matter how carefully you store ammo away, some condensation will always build up, temperatures will change, and the ammo itself will begin to deteriorate. This, in turn, means that you should be using ammo even while you are building up your stockpile.
Always use the oldest ammo first and make sure that you replace it with the same or better quality rounds. For example, if you have about half your stockpile dedicated to rounds with steel casings, do not backtrack and buy more aluminum rounds to replace the used ones. Instead, go for more steel casings or see if you can afford rounds with brass casings.
Keeping your ammo stockpile in a steady state of rotation also helps ensure that you will actually practice shooting. From developing muscle memory to gaining confidence with cleaning and caring for weapons, just about everything starts with shooting on a regular basis.
If you can’t find a reason to go to the range other than rotating your ammo, at least it’s better than not doing any shooting at all.
Inspect the rounds on a regular basis. There are few things worse than having ammo cans sitting in the attic for decades without paying any attention to them. During this time, you may not know about rust that may have developed on jackets and casings.
If you wind up needing decayed rounds, you won’t be able to use them safely. If you rotate ammunition on a regular basis, you will isolate problems quickly and replace ruined ammo with something that you can use in time of need.
Gain as much experience as possible with different kinds of ammo. Once you know what kind of rounds your gun can take, try ammo from different manufacturers.
When you routinely rotate and use part of your stockpile, test out different products and see how they work for you. Later on, if your stockpile is gone or inaccessible, you will know how any ammo you find will work to suit your needs in a self-defense situation.
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This article has been written by Carmela Tyrell for Survivopedia.
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Even in the 21st Century where concealed carry semi-automatics from .32 to .45 gauge have taken the market by storm, the traditional revolver holds strong. Revolvers continue to sell off the shelves in droves, and the likely reason is that people know that you can always depend on a revolver to save your life.
The semi-auto vs. revolver debate has been going for many years and will likely never end. Every individual has their preferences. But even though semi-automatics have become more modern and updated with each passing year, the basic design of the revolver still holds many advantages over a semi-automatic.
Let’s go over what these advantages are, and then talk about 5 of the best-concealed carry revolvers on the market.
WHY CHOOSE A REVOLVER OVER A SEMI-AUTO PISTOL FOR CONCEALED CARRY?
There’s no denying that there are many appealing reasons to own a semi-automatic rather than a revolver. Semi-autos typically hold more bullets, are easier and faster to reload, and today’s models are highly ergonomic.
Still, revolvers continue to hold their own against the semi-automatic when it comes to concealed carry. There are many advantages with a revolver that you won’t get with a semi-auto and that benefit you for concealed carry and self-defense. These advantages include:
Revolvers are so simple that even those who have never even touched a gun before can figure out how to use one. Ease of use can prove to be immensely beneficial to you if you need to use your backup revolver to arm someone else in an emergency defense situation. There are no safeties to switch off or slides to manipulate, just point and shoot.
Yes, semi-automatics are reliable too, but all a revolver needs to do is turn the cylinder to fire the next round. For overall reliability, a revolver is hard to beat.
You Can Jam It into Someone in a Close-Range Fight
In a close fight where an opponent is physically attacking you, you would have to fire your weapon at point blank range. The problem with a semi-automatic in this situation is if you jam the muzzle into your attacker, the slide will be pushed out of battery and cause it to jam or not even fire. The barrel of the revolver has no effect on the cylinder, so you can jam it into an opponent up close and still fire all of your rounds if you had to.
While revolvers don’t have manual safeties, they do have long trigger pulls (at least on double action). The long trigger pull makes them safe guns to carry.
These are just four of the biggest reasons to carry a revolver over a semi-auto. Semi-autos have their advantages as well, but the advantages to owning a revolver are undeniably compelling.
Now that we know the reasons to owning a revolver over a semi-auto, let’s find out about what some of the best-concealed carry revolvers are:
The Ruger LCR was revolutionary upon its first release in 2009. It was the first successful polymer-framed revolver available (although the inside of the frame is aluminum alloy). The polymer frame made it very lightweight in comparison to its main competitor, the Smith & Wesson J-Frame series or Ruger’s SP101. Lightweight and reliable, the LCR is an excellent choice for concealed carry in general.
Today the Ruger LCR is available in numerous calibers, including .22 LR, .22 Magnum, .38 Special, 9mm Luger, .357 Magnum, and .327 Federal Magnum. In other words, you have options!
Beyond calibers, the LCR is available in numerous configurations. While the standard model has a 2-inch barrel and covered hammer (called hammerless), it is also available with an exposed hammer and/or a 3-inch barrel instead.
As with all Ruger DA revolvers, the LCR features a push button cylinder release that will allow the cylinder to swing out when depressed.
The Ruger SP101 is built like a tank, and you’ll feel it when you hold it. While the SP101 is easily the heaviest revolver in this list, the trade off is enhanced durability and shoot ability. A major complaint about compact or snub nose revolvers, in general, is that they are difficult to shoot and have heavy recoil. Recoil is severely mitigated with the SP101.
The SP101 holds five rounds of .357 Magnum, which means it can also chamber and shoot .38 Special if you desire a lighter round. Also, Ruger also makes the SP101 in .327 Federal Magnum, which holds six rounds.
Standard SP101’s have exposed hammers, but so-called ‘hammerless’ variants are also available. You also have your choice between a 2-inch, 3-inch, or 4-inch barrel.
All in all, even if you find the SP101 a little heavier than you would like for concealed carry, you should at least find it to be one of the more easy-to-shoot compact revolvers on the market. Just like the LCR, it features a push button cylinder release on the side that will swing out the cylinder when depressed.
SMITH & WESSON J-FRAME
There are so many Smith & Wesson J-Frame designs in general that we cannot narrow it down to just one specific model for this article. The J-Frame, which has been around since 1950, is simply the smallest frame of the revolver in Smith & Wesson’s lineup and is designed exclusively for concealed carry.
J-Frame revolvers are small, light, steel framed, and reliable. They’ve served as CCW weapons for civilians and as backup guns for detectives and police officers for decades, including today.
While the J-Frame wasn’t the first snub nose revolver ever released (the Colt Detective Special had been out for over two decades beforehand), it was arguably the gun that made the snub nose revolver iconic and popular with civilians.
The success of the J-Frame has prompted Smith & Wesson to release several variants. All variants feature a standard capacity of five rounds either in .38 Special or .357 Magnum and feature a cylinder release on the side that must be pushed forward (rather than down on Ruger models), to release the cylinder.
Here are the basic types of Smith & Wesson J-Frame revolvers currently offered and the features of each one:
- Model 36 – Original J-Frame, still in production
- Model 642/442 – hammerless .38 Special J-frame; 642 is stainless, and 442 is black
- Model 637 – hammered version of the 642
- Model 60 – .357 Magnum version of the Model 36
- Model 640 – hammerless version of the Model 60
- M&P Bodyguard – polymer-framed, hammerless J-Frame with Crimson Trace laser sight
The Taurus 85 is essentially a cheaper clone of the Smith & Wesson J-Frame series, but that doesn’t make it poor quality. If you desire a concealed carry on a budget, you’ll want to give the Taurus 85 a hard look. On the outside, the Model 85 resembles a J-Frame clear and through. Like the J-Frame, it features a five-shot cylinder with a cylinder release that must be pressed forward.
But an interesting feature of the 85 is the option to remove the hammer to create a ‘hammerless model.’ Simply twist the hammer to the side, and you will then be able to remove it from the gun. It’s a neat feature for a revolver and one that gives you the option of having either a hammered or ‘hammerless’ revolver without having to buy one of each.
The Model 85 is offered as a blued model or in stainless steel. As with all Taurus guns, it comes equipped with Taurus’s Trademark Security System: insert a key that comes with the gun into a keyhole behind the hammer, twist it, and the gun will be rendered inoperable. The security system you some peace of mind if you store the 85 in your house and have small children running around.
TAURUS JUDGE PUBLIC DEFENDER POLYMER REVOLVER
Another interesting concealed carry revolver from Taurus is the Judge Public Defender Polymer Revolver. This is the famous (or infamous) Taurus Judge .410/.45 LC that has been shrunk down for concealed carry. As the name suggests, it has a polymer-frame to reduce the weight.
The Public Defender offers you devastating self-defense capabilities in either chambering. A .45 Long Colt round offers far more power than the standard .38 Special or even the .357 Magnum. A self-defense buckshot load of .410 Bore will be near the equivalent of shooting three 9mm FMJ rounds at once.
It should be noted that the Public Defender is designed for extremely close-range defensive use only. To this end, it may be more suited as an anti-carjacking gun rather than for concealed carry, but still, there’s something very comforting about having five shots of .410 buckshot on your person.
All in all, revolvers are old, but they’re not yet antiquated. They’ve been around for many years, and they will be around for many more years. While they have their pros and cons, it’s incredibly unlikely that a revolver will fail you in a self-defense situation. And that reliability is what matters the most for a concealed carry weapon. Any one of the five types of concealed carry revolvers we’ve gone over is a suitable choice for concealed carry and armed personal defense.
While we are surely in the age of the striker-fired pistol ascendancy, the single-action (SA) pistol still has a strong, iron-headed, devoted following. The siren song of crisp, short trigger pulls and positive external safeties, coupled with (usually) stellar accuracy and rugged dependability is a sweet song indeed – and when one throws in the romanticism of big bore, slab-sided pistols defending our country and ideals, well…it’s hard not to look at a high-end 1911 or Browning Hi-Power in the gun shop’s glass display case and wipe away just a smidgen of salivation.
Holding an early military contract 1911 makes me think of our WWI doughboys, knuckle-duster trench spike in one fist, cocked .45 retained with a lanyard in the other, fighting for their lives in damp, brutal trench warfare. Or maybe it invokes Alvin York on Hill 223, running out of .30-06 ammo for his rifle, then fending off a six-man German bayonet charge and capturing 132 of the enemy single-handedly – with a 1911 and one round of ammunition remaining. Perhaps we remember the legend of Sergeant Thomas Baker fending off a Japanese assault on Saipan, with a 1911 and his unit’s last eight rounds of ammunition – he was found dead, with a slide-locked pistol and eight dead Japanese before him; his men were able to withdraw and fight another day. (York and Baker both won the Medal Of Honor for their actions.) You see, the single-action auto is a symbol – some say THE symbol – of defiance, competence, ingenuity, and good old American ass-kicking, ensuring that no matter how many Glocks are made, the single-action auto will always have a strong place in our hearts.
And so it was inevitable, I suppose. All three of these magnificent handguns happened to be available at the same time, so I had to compare them – and definitely shoot them, right? Two of John Moses Browning’s most beloved and war-tested pinnacle designs from the early 20th century, and an example of Swiss ingenuity applied to the combat pistol concept – all three highly sought-after single action semi-automatic handguns, all three pistol perfection in their own right.
The three pistols we will be examining are lustworthy indeed: A well cared-for Colt Series 70 1911 Government Model in the classic .45 ACP chambering, a mint Browning Hi-Power Practical in .40 S&W, and a serious-looking Sig Sauer P220SAO, also in .45ACP. The 1911 and Hi-Power are loaners; I wanted to compare them to my single-action Sig Sauer P220 to see if the more modern design eclipses – or falls short of – the vaunted John Moses Browning designs.
The Colt 1911A1 MK. IV Series 70 .45 ACP
The Colt 1911 is, without a doubt, America’s pistol. Designed by the illustrious John Moses Browning in the early 20th century as an answer to the U.S. Military’s call for a new semi-automatic service pistol that “should not be of less than .45 caliber”, the 1911 was the final evolution of a series of pistols and calibers that started with the framing-square-profiled .38 caliber Colt M1900 and the improved Colt 1902. After the U.S. Military fought drug-addled knife-wielding Moro guerillas in brutal close-in jungle warfare and found that their issued .38 Special revolvers did not provide the needed stopping power, a request was issued for a .45 caliber semi-automatic pistol design after the US military found that the stop-gap older 1873 “Peacemaker” .45 Colt revolvers stopped Moro charges with authority and saved our boys from being hacked to bits at bad breath distance by fanatics. After a gestation and trial period that lasted from 1906 to 1910, Browning’s new pistol – built by Colt – and its purpose-designed caliber, the .45 Automatic Colt Pistol (or ACP for short) won a military competition handily, beating offerings from Webley, Savage Arms, Bergmann, and others. The new service pistol was formally adopted by the US Army in March 1911, leading to the year moniker all gun enthusiasts know and love. The Marine Corps and Navy followed suit two years later, and adopted the “Model of 1911” in 1913.
Related: 1911 or Glock
The 1911 went to war a few years later in 1917 when the United States entered The Great War, now known to us as World War One. The 1911’s most famous feat was the aforementioned capture of Hill 223 during the Meuse-Argonne offensive on October 8, 1918 by then-Corporal Alvin C. York: a story that captured the imagination of every American who heard it. York’s bravery and skill with his firearms – a GI .45 included – made the hearts of every patriot swell with pride and astonishment for the feat of arms and marksmanship that was Alvin York’s story.
Wartime experience with the 1911 ushered in several improvements on the initial design, and these minor changes were implemented in 1924 with the introduction of the M1911A1 variant. The easiest modifications to spot are the cutouts in the frame immediately behind the trigger, a shorter trigger, and arched mainspring housing. Other modifications included simpler-to-manufacture grips, a shorter hammer and longer upper tang on the grip safety – these latter two modifications adopted to prevent “hammer bite”: the painful pinching of the web of the hand by the hammer coming back to the cocking position when the slide reciprocated. Better, more solid sights rounded out the list of changes between a 1911 and a 1911A1….and since then, the basic design really hasn’t changed much. Sights may be improved, ambidextrous safeties and beavertail grip safeties may be installed, but today’s production 1911 differs very little mechanically from a 1911A1 produced in 1924 – and if you had the two of them side by side, it’s a safe bet that almost all the parts would interchange.
The 1911 loaned to me for this evaluation is a box-stock, near-mint Colt MK IV Series 70 Government model, meaning it sports the 5” barrel and full-sized grip; the largest 1911 model aside from any “longslide” variant. This particular Colt has the standard small plain black sights with no white dots or tritium inserts. The Series 70 is a highly desirable collector’s item, since it was the last model made before the introduction of the integral firing pin safety that came with the following Series 80 guns. Many 1911 purists eschew the now-standard firing pin safety of the later 1911 models, claiming that the added moving parts affect the trigger pull quality and offer one more place for the gun to malfunction – it’s also contended that John Browning didn’t put the safety there in the first place, so therefore it clearly wasn’t needed! Original Series 70 1911s were made from 1970 to 1983 (though Colt has brought them back into production), and are beautiful pieces of machinery, with high-polished flawless bluing and tight manufacturing tolerances. This particular Series 70 is no exception, with deep lustrous bluing that is only slightly worn, and nary a wiggle between the frame and the slide. It’s beautiful and businesslike….and it has a big damn hole in the dangerous end.
The Browning Hi-Power Practical .40 S&W
If I had to choose one semi-automatic handgun to be crowned “The classiest pistol of all time”, the Browning Hi-Power would be it. Any firearms enthusiast who has spent an extended period of time with a Hi-Power would likely agree; Hi-Powers are svelte, trim, and fill the hand perfectly, with graceful lines and a purposeful form. Hi-Powers – also known as P-35s or BHPs – were one of the 20th century’s most prolific combat handguns, serving in almost 100 different nation’s armies as the primary sidearm. In fact, many countries still issue the BHP: the Belgian Army, Australian Defense Force, and Israeli Police – amongst others – issue and carry the venerable design to this day.
The Browning Hi-Power (BHP from here on in this article) was John Moses Browning’s final design – one that was not completed upon his death in 1926. However, when the French Army issued a call to the Belgian arms company Fabrique Nationale (FN) for a pistol to meet stringent requirements, FN called upon the genius of John Browning to design it. Some of the requirements for the pistol seem yawn-inducing now, but were quite forward-thinking in the early 1920’s. The French wanted a compact gun that held at least 10 rounds in a removable magazine, have a manual thumb safety, external hammer, and magazine safety that denied the gun firing without a magazine inserted. They also issued the need for the gun to be able to kill a man a 50 meters and be easy to disassemble.
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FN commissioned Browning to work around these requirements, but there was a caveat – initially, he could not impede upon his own patents that worked so successfully with the Colt 1911. Browning started from the ground up, and created the framework for the innovative pistol we know today as the Browning High Power. There were several industry firsts introduced with the BHP, including the staggered double-stack magazine (holding 13 rounds of 9mm Luger), and the short recoil camming tilt-barrel locked breech design that almost all modern recoil-operated semi-automatic pistols employ today. Though Browning would not live to see the fruits of his labor completed, Fabrique Nationale ran the natural evolution of the design and completed Browning’s work, along with the help of a few design tweaks that were available after the Colt 1911 patents expired in 1928.
The reliability, high capacity, and inherent accuracy of the BHP during wartime exploits earned the pistol a hushed, subdued respect that still soldiers on to this day. Today, people who use Hi-Powers regularly are pistol connoisseurs – users of the world’s greatest firearms designer’s penultimate handgun design.
The Browning Hi-Power tested for this article is a two-tone HP Practical variant, in .40 S&W. The slide has been beefed up very slightly to help compensate for the sturdier high-pressure caliber, but other than that, the pistol feels very similar and works identically to a standard 9mm Hi-Power. The safety is ambidextrous, and the sights are fixed – but improved over the standard MKIII version with a higher profile and white contrast bars. A neat upgrade to these later-production Hi Powers is an external magazine spring that ejects the magazines out of the grip with the utmost haste once the magazine release has been pressed.
Yes, I could have, maybe even should have, obtained a “classic” 9mm Browning Hi-Power to shoot and write up – but I wanted big bores, dammit – so I borrowed the .40 over the 9mm. It’s a choice I’m okay with.
The Sig Sauer P220SAO (Single Action Only)
The Sig Sauer P220 is the first design in a long and highly-respected series of pistols, the Sig Sauer “Classic” line of handguns. This series includes the models P220, P224, P225, P226, P227, P228, P229, P239, and P245. This family of pistols – especially the P220 and P226 – are the rock upon which Sig Sauer built its current reputation of “To Hell and Back Reliability”. Though the design was introduced in 1975 as a replacement for the highly vaunted P210, the P220 ushered in a new era of reliability, accuracy, and utter quality that still runs strong – and other manufacturers are still trying to match today.
A single-stack DA/SA (double action/single action) design traditionally, the P220 was redesigned in the early 2000’s to offer a SAO (Single Action Only) configuration. The familiar Sig Sauer thumb-operated decocker lever was eradicated, and an ambidextrous thumb safety, a la 1911, was installed at the rear of the frame. Other than these simple modifications, the internal mechanisms and external ergonomics remain mostly unchanged, and the P220SAO is as supreme a fighting and target pistol as its vaunted DA/SA brethren.
I’ve often said that the P220 will do everything a 1911 can do, but better (a phrase that has gotten me in some heated arguments over the years) but I stand by the proclamation – and now that the P220SAO is on the books, Sig Sauer has made my argument that much easier. The P220SAO is a marvel of modern engineering – beautifully made, reliable to a fault, and just ridiculously accurate.
This particular P220SAO was obtained by yours truly after a long and heartfelt desire was churned up in my innards – this emotion struck me the second I heard that SIG Sauer was offering a single-action auto version of the P220. It was one of those “SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY” moments that we all experience at some point or another, and it’s a special feeling. My P220SAO is bone stock, with Siglite tritium three-dot night sights and a factory two-tone finish, with the slide natural stainless steel, and the earlier German-manufactured aluminum frame (all current P220SAOs are made in Exeter, NH) in black anodized and blued controls. The P220SAO is the only pistol of the trio to sport a dust cover mounted accessory rail for lights and lasers, and it is the only pistol of the three to have an aluminum frame – the 1911 and Hi-Power are all steel.
The Big-Bore Nitty Gritty
All three of these pieces of weaponry art are what I would consider full-sized guns. Here is a basic run-down of the pistols’ particulars:
COLT 1911 SERIES 70 GOVERNMENT MODEL
Caliber: .45ACP, also available in 9mm, .38 Super (current production Series 70 guns are .45ACP only)
Barrel Length: 5”
Weight Unloaded: 37.5 ounces
Magazine Capacity: 7 rounds standard in .45ACP, higher capacity magazines available
BROWNING HI-POWER HP PRACTICAL
Caliber: .40 S&W, 9mm
Barrel Length: 4.6”
Weight Unloaded: 32 ounces
Magazine Capacity: 10 rounds in .40 S&W, 13 rounds in 9mm
SIG SAUER P220SAO
Caliber: .45ACP, 10mm
Barrel Length: 4.4”
Weight Unloaded: 30.4 ounces
Magazine Capacity: 8 rounds standard in .45ACP
As you can see, the basic pistols are all very close in size: less than an inch in length, a quarter inch in width, a half inch in height, and a third of a pound separate the three platforms. However, specifications alone don’t tell it all; each of these pistols has its own legion of heartfelt, ardent fans. In part two of this article, we’ll line them up at the shooting bench and dig into why each of these pistols is so successful, and popular – over a century after the single-action semi-automatic pistol came into its own. Stand by!
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Weapons are the best way to protect yourself and your loved ones. Having the proper weapon makes self-defense much easier.
You don’t have to ruin your budget on the perfect gun, but you can challenge your skills and build your own homemade weapon. Learning how to build your own weapon is a handy skill that will serve you well in a survival situation.
It may be time consuming, but you will have a weapon that will perfectly fit your needs. It doesn’t matter whether you plan to build a knife that can be held better in arthritic hands or you want to design a super gun that breaks all the rules insofar as barrel length and projectile launching methods.
This article covers a step-by-step guide on how to build your own self-defense weapons.
If you follow these steps carefully and take your time with each phase, you will produce better weapons that will meet your needs.
Choose the Purpose of Your Weapon
Start off by deciding what you want to use the weapon for. Are you planning on building a self-defense weapon that will be used within arm’s length, or do you want to be able to attack something several feet to several yards away?
When considering this question, decide how lethal you want the weapon to be. If you are the kind of person that believes you cannot kill, there is no point to making a weapon that has a high chance of taking a life. In these cases, focus more on weapons that act as diversion, or those that will wound long enough for you to make your escape.
At this stage, it is also very important to decide how much you want to reveal about the weapon when you are carrying it. Do you want something that you can completely conceal regardless of where you are? If so, then you will need to list that as a priority so that you can fully evaluate which materials will meet your needs.
Choose a Relevant System to Study
Once you know what you want the weapon to do, look at systems that have already been developed.
For example, if you know that you want to make a bladed weapon, study knives. If you want something more lethal, then go ahead and study systems that include adding poisons to the knife.
During this stage, try to find at least 100 designs so that you know as much as possible about what has been developed through time. If you are combining systems, such as a knife and a poison delivery system, make it a point to find 100 designs for both.
Narrow Your Selection to One Design
Out of 100 designs, you may only find 5 or 6 that have sufficient appeal to work with. You will need to find one design that has the most appeal, and then keep detailed notes on the other systems that may work for your needs.
Make sure that you have a clear understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of each design.
Create Your Own Design
When it comes to developing new personal defense weapons, many people are tempted to start here instead of studying other systems first. If you did your research well, you will find this step easy.
Take the time at this stage to make sure that you have all the best ideas in place for each part of the weapon. If you are going to innovate or bring in ideas from other weapons systems, make sure you understand how all the pieces will fit and work together.
At this stage, it is also very important to figure out how you will make allowances for wear, repair, and making changes based on available materials.
You should also make sure that you know what tools and skills will be required to make the weapon, use it, and maintain it.
Make a Blueprint with Scaling and Measurement Notes
There are few things worse than building a weapon without a detailed blueprint. When you don’t have a solid pattern to follow, it can be very hard to make precision parts. You will also find that it becomes all too easy to go off on a tangent.
No matter whether you get hung up on adding a style element, or you cannot seem to get the right shape for a part, a fully scaled blueprint can help keep you on track.
Make a List of Materials and Tools
Once you have a clear idea about what you are going to build, it is time to start assembling the tools and materials. You should also have a list of alternatives on hand in case you cannot obtain the items that you identified as ideal.
This list will also come in handy if you find out that you first choice wasn’t as good for one reason or another.
Create a Production Timeline
Before you begin working on the actual weapon, it is important to know how much time you plan to spend building the prototype, and then a full working version. This can help you save time as well as ensure that you make enough room for this task.
The last thing you will want to do is try to build something at the last minute, and then find out you needed far more time than expected.
Test the Materials
From polymers to metal and wood, there is a definite learning curve that you must go through. Simply reading a package or some instructions will not prepare you for all the things that come up when you work with the materials.
It is very important to know that you are comfortable with each material so that you know exactly how you are going to work with it while making the weapon.
This will also give you a chance to see if you need additional tools, or if you would be better served by using a different material.
Build a Prototype
Many people do not build a prototype because they think it is best to just aim for something that will work. When you don’t have a prototype, you waste material and time.
When you build a smaller working version, it gives you a chance to build and test your skills as well as see how everything will fit together. Even though a prototype won’t detect all your design problems, it can still be very useful.
Build a Functional Weapon
If you have been eager to build your weapon, then this stage is bound to be your favorite. Now is the time to put everything you learned plus your skills into making the finest weapon possible based on your plans.
Do not rush through this stage. Make sure that all the modules work correctly, and redo parts if they don’t come out right. Remember, your goal is a final product that will work to save your life, not put it in danger.
Test the Weapon
Once the weapon is built, you will need to test it out for strength and functionality. Each weapon design will require different testing strategies.
Do not test on live animals or other human beings. There are many ways to use dummies, blocks of wood, or other materials to see if you have a weapon that works properly.
When testing weapons, do not forget to wear adequate safety gear. Never assume that the weapon will work correctly. It is best to be well protected in case you made a mistake in the design, or something unexpected happens to turn the weapon against you.
For example, if you are working with poisons, gases, or liquids, make sure you are wearing full eye and face protection as well as an appropriate coverall and footwear.
Store the Weapon
After you know the weapon works, set it aside for a while. Give yourself some time away from the active development and building phase so that you can go back later and look at it with fresh eyes. This will also give you a chance to see how the materials change over time.
If a material is going to degrade over time or lose its usefulness, then it is best to find out before you need to use the weapon for self-defense.
Continue Testing and Studying Your New Weapon
From time to time, it is very important to test the weapon out and practice with it. This will give you confidence in using the weapon and help you find design and material flaws.
Make Modifications as Needed
If you find a problem with the design or materials, it is important to go back and fix them as soon as possible. In some situations, you may have to go back to the design and development stages and then build another version of the weapon.
As time consuming as this may be, it is better to take these steps with care and come out with something better the next time around.
Remember that a personal defense weapon should be something you feel comfortable carrying at all times. Learn from the experts the secret of self-defense. Click the banner below to grab your guide!
This article has been written by Carmela Tyrell for Survivopedia.
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The top three calibers that you should consider for an STHF sidearm are 9mm, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP simply because they are the most popular and easiest to find. If you decide that .45 ACP is the caliber you would like in your sidearm, it’s time to do your research on the best specific .45 pistol for you.
While the most famous .45 pistol of all is undoubtedly the 1911, it’s also an older design and has a limited magazine capacity of just seven to eight rounds. These days, there are double stacked .45 pistols that are simpler and hold more rounds. Let’s find out about the advantages to owning such a pistol and then discuss the top five best double stack .45 pistols on the market:
ADVANTAGES TO OWNING A DOUBLE STACK .45
While a double stack .45 pistol is easily going to be bigger than its 9mm counterparts, a .45 round on its own also creates a substantially bigger hole than a 9mm does. The tradeoff you get with a larger and heavier double stack .45 is an overall increase in firepower, which can be a big plus in a home defense or any self-defense scenario.
Double stack .45 pistols are admittedly not the best for concealed carry, especially for people who are shorter or smaller in overall stature. A .45 double stack pistol will instead be best suited to resting on your nightstand for home defense or in an OWB holster on your side as an SHTF sidearm.
All in all, the biggest advantage to owning a double stacked .45 pistol is how it offers greater stopping power than a 9mm or .40 caliber version of the same gun while coming close in overall round count. As an SHTF sidearm, a dependable .45 double stack pistol represents a solid choice.
Next, here are five of the top double stack .45 pistols currently available on the market, presented in alphabetical order:
Do fifteen rounds of .45 ACP sound appealing in a single magazine? If it does, then you should point yourself in the direction of the FN FNX-45. With the highest standard magazine round count of any of the pistols on this list, the FNX should already be one of the .45 double stack pistols you consider. The more rounds in the pistol, the less frequent reloading needed, a major benefit if you have to defend your property or family against multiple attackers.
The FNX-45 is a hammer fired polymer-framed pistol that sports all the features you would expect on a pistol these days. The gun is double action, or single action fired. The first shot is double, and subsequent shots are in single, while you can flip down the decocking lever to return it to double action (which is safer for carrying). The FNX-45 also comes equipped with a loaded chamber indicator, night sights, an accessory rail, and four separate backstraps of different sizes.
As a whole, the FNX-45 is a large pistol, but also one that’s high-quality and loaded with a lot of firepower.
You probably expected to see a Glock on this list, and you were right. The Glock 21 has long been a mainstay in the .45 ACP world because it combines Glock’s simplicity and reliability with 13 rounds of .45 ACP in the magazine.
There are many reasons to own a Glock regardless of the model or caliber. Glock is currently the most popular gun manufacturer in the United States, meaning that spare magazines and accessories are virtually everywhere. The customization options are also endless. Also, Glock pistols are extraordinarily simple and reliable. It is for these reasons that their design has been copied by many other pistol manufacturers.
While the Glock 21 is big and bulky, it’s also not a pistol that’s going to fail you anytime soon. The third and fourth-generation models, which are both available, offers an accessory rail for adding lights or lasers, while the fourth generation gives you the option of replaceable back straps. For many, the Glock 21 represents the gold standard of .45 double stack pistols, and that alone secures it on an automatic place in this list.
HECKLER & KOCH HK45
Just like the USP pistol (still in production) that was made before it, the Heckler & Koch HK45 is a double action single action hammer fired pistol with a polymer frame. However, the HK45 also offers improved ergonomics over the USP. This combined with the fact that the USP-series may be discontinued should HK’s new pistols prove popular, is why the HK45 comes recommended first.
The HK45 has a ten-round magazine, which admittedly is lower than some of the other pistols on this list. Nonetheless, the HK45 is also the issued sidearm for many military and special forces units across the world, and that says a lot.
The ergonomics of the HK45 are like what they offer on their P30 and VP series of pistols. There’s an accessory rail on the front of the frame for adding lights and lasers, while the external frame mounted safety also acts as a decocker to make the weapon safe for carry after firing.
Heckler & Koch is known for making reliable and innovative firearms, and the HK45 is no exception. While accessories may not be nearly as common as Glock, the quality is equal if not even a little superior.
SIG SAUER P227
The SIG Sauer P227 is the only steel-framed .45 pistol on this list. For many years, its ancestor the P220 was the most successful DA .45 pistol on the market, and it remains popular today. But if there’s one thing that people complained about the P220, it’s that the magazine was single stack and only held eight rounds like a 1911. People had long been craving a double stacked version of the P220, and SIG Sauer responded with the P227.
While the P227 is wider than the P220, the standard magazine capacity holds ten rounds of .45 ACP instead of the P220’s eight rounds. A longer magazine with an extended base plate is also available for the P227 and increases the capacity to fourteen rounds. SIG also has installed the P227 with their new and improved E2 grips, which offer far better ergonomics over the grips they used on their previous models.
SIG Sauer is widely regarded as a premium gun manufacturer, and thus the P227 does not come cheap. You’ll have to plan on saving up nearly a grand to purchase a new P227, and while that may sound like a lot for a pistol, it’s an excellent value when you consider the superb craftsmanship that SIG Sauer provides. Plus, if you prefer to have a steel-framed pistol like a 1911 over a polymer-framed one, the P227 is easily going to be your best choice for a double stacked .45.
WALTHER PPQ 45
Last but certainly not least, we come to the newest pistol on this list, the Walther PPQ 45. The PPQ 45 holds the distinction as being the very first .45 pistol that Walther has ever produced. The story behind the PPQ 45 is also simple: Walther released the PPQ in 9mm and .40 S&W in 2011 and updated them with the M2 model (with an American-style push button magazine release) in 2013. A .22 LR version of the PPQ followed soon after, but for two years a .45 version was missing.
Finally, in late 2015, Walther released the PPQ 45 to the masses. You’ll notice right away that it’s bigger than its 9mm and .40 S&W brothers, but this is because the magazine must accommodate twelve rounds of .45 ACP.
While the PPQ 45 is young, reviews have still been overwhelmingly positive as it maintains the excellent ergonomics and superb trigger of its previous incarnations. The PPQ is marketed by Walther as having the smoothest and lightest trigger pull of any striker-fired pistol on the market. It’s up to you to decide if you agree with that, just know that the PPQ 45 has the same light trigger pull as the 9mm and .40 versions do.
Magazines and accessories can be difficult to find for the PPQ 45 since it’s so young, but as it becomes more popular this is likely to change. As it stands, Walther has had difficulty keeping the PPQ 45 on the shelves, which says a lot about it.
A double stack .45 pistol offers you a lot of firepower, but it’s also important that you make sure your money is spent wisely by purchasing a pistol that is reliable, accurate, and comes from a reputable manufacturer. Each of the five .45 pistols that we have gone over in this article fulfill that criterion perfectly, so any one of them represents a solid choice.
Wood and zombies have a lot in common besides their acting abilities; an axe easily splits them in two. And surprisingly, both zombies and iron battle axes share a similar timeline more than a dozen centuries long. Sure, stone axes were chopping coconuts and skulls as far back as 6000 BCE, but metal ones took longer to develop. Gunpowder displaced the battle axe as a primary weapon in the 1600s, but the modern zombie craze has caused a resurgence of interest in the swinging heavy blade.
By Doc Montana, a Contributing Author of Survival Cache and SHTFBlog
Battle axe evolution followed technology improvements as well as battlefield tactics. The early wood handles were often the target of the enemy combatant’s own axe since axes cut wood and a broken handle makes the weapon as useless as an empty magazine. Seems every weapon can be reduced to a club.
Metal handles were the natural outgrowth of adding metal reinforcement to the traditional wood handle. But metal adds weight and if of sufficient strength, the wrought iron handles of battle axes relegated them to two-handed use except by those humans of the heavily muscular variety. A six-pound head on a battle axe was huge with single-pound heads not uncommon. Since battle axes were more for chopping flesh than chopping wood, the blade could be narrowed and have a longer, more curved presentation. They could also be thinner overall prior to where handle mounts. If a wood axe was designed as such, it would chop much like a machete meaning it would stick into wood and provide little splay.
Recommended Daily Allowance
A distinct advantage of the axe as a tool is that it really is a tool. Nobody doubts the utility of a good axe to the point that even the U.S. Government’s National Forest Service lists the axe as an essential part of the “Responsible Recreation” kit. But not all axes are the same. While a steel head is uniform across the axe platform, it all ends there. And even steel has a host of variations: from overseas iron that is soft and rusty to finely crafted German blades polished and sharpened, to hand-forged Swedish steel that preserves the old ways of doing things. Handles range from Ash, to Hickory, to fiberglass, to plastic, to nylon, to a continuous steel extension of the head. All have their disadvantages, but a few materials and designs have very distinct and important advantages. And Hickory is one of them.
Related: Stihl Splitting Hatchet
In the case of the Stihl Pro Universal Forestry Axe, a high quality Hickory handle is used for durability, strength, power transfer, and shock reduction. However, wood is easily damaged by water, impacts, and time. Stihl addressed the impacts issue by adding a heavy steel collar around the neck of the axe to prevent overstrikes damaging the handle. And even more, the collar protects a super-thick neck that is a third more robust than traditional axe designs. And that’s on top of already being exceptionally hard Hickory with proper grain orientation.
With a length of just over 27 inches and a head weight of just under three pounds the Stihl Pro Universal Forestry Axe lands in the middle range of battleaxe demographics. And it looks the part. Compared to traditional axes you are likely to find around the woodpile, the Stihl Pro Universal Forestry Axe stands out as something different. And it is different.
Hang Your Head
In addition to the overbuilt handle and steel sleeve, the head of the Stihl Pro Universal Forestry Axe is manufactured by Germany’s oldest axe forge, the Ochsenkopf company. So with all this brute strength in components, Ochsenkopf designed a system to hang the head on the handle with more than the the usual flat or round wedges. The Stihl Pro Universal Forestry Axe head is literally bolted onto the handle with a long screw and additional metal wedge plug and steel endcap all securely attaching the axe head and collar to a fitted handle. Ochsenkopf calls this their Rotband-Plus system. So not only are the pieces ready for battle, but the entire mechanism is assembled to outlast axe traditions that usually outlast their owners anyway.
Check Out: Granfors Bruks Hand Hatchet
The head of the Stihl Pro Universal Forestry Axe is forged with the German equivalent of 1060 steel they call C60. The “C” stands for carbon, but a 1060 steel is on the low end of high carbon steels. Not low in quality, but in carbon content. This minimal amount of carbon is fine as long as the heat treatment is correct for the tool. Axe heads are often of variable heat treatment with a different hardness at the bit (cutting edge) end compared to the eye (handle hole). Ochsenkopf axes are known for moving the hardened heat treatment further back than the usual half-inch or so from the sharp end. The 1060 steel in the Stihl Pro Universal Forestry Axe bit area appears to have been heat treated a full inch-and-a-half from the edge as noted by the change in light reflection off the blade. The variability in hardness of an axe head is a dance between sharp and brittle. Too much and things chip and crack. Too little and they bend and deform. Further, shallow heat treatments are often ground off during the axe’s short life of sharpening. A downward sharpening spiral begins when softer metal becomes the blade.
…But Prepare for the Worst
It wasn’t just gunpowder that sent battle axes to the back of the line, but also their overall durability especially when encountering an armor-clad foe. Battle axes were fearsome but fragile. In proper hands, they were nothing short of harbingers of death and dismemberment. But swung wildly and with disregard for the landing zone, the axes broke with unnerving predictability. And the same can be said about today’s modern forest axes.
See Also: Why the Tomahawk?
Double-duty is name of the preparedness game. Just as the ancient grindstone handle can be found in modern configuration as a side-handle police baton, the battle axe could be hiding in the woodpile or by the campfire. While any axe can be dangerous (even to the user), not all axes are the same. Survival requires an unbroken chain of good decisions, and with the Stihl Pro Universal Forestry Axe, we have an exceptional hard-use tool for the homestead, and a dangerously strong striking weapon for breaching, rescue, and self defense.
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When people hear the term “survival weapon,” usually the only weapons that come to mind are guns and knives. But for Jeff from Modern Combat And Survival, the weapon that comes to his mind is: a big ass machete. In this article, he makes a good case that a machete is a great thing to […]
The post The Best Survival Weapon For a Collapse: The Big Badass Machete appeared first on Urban Survival Site.
If you like making your own weapons, or just enjoy woodworking in general, you should check out this guide to making your own longbow. This detailed guide is about 2000 words long and explains longbow making terms, lists all the tools and supplies you’ll need, and even includes several videos to show you how it’s […]
In this “back-to-basics” article, we will look at a basic building material, tool, and weapon- one that can be used for shelter, a tool handle, walking stick, and the most basic and primitive weapon. As a weapon, the more-or-less six foot staff is one of the most universal among many martial arts traditions, and often the first taught. Shaolin, Wing Chun, Kobudo and other schools of martial arts teach staff “forms”, or choreographed practice sequences that have been passed down through the ages. For basic utility, the staff can be used to carry firewood and water (by hanging bundles or buckets at the ends and carrying over one’s shoulders), and for other forms of transport (such as game, strung up between two people; or to craft a sled or skid). Sturdy poles can be used to build tripods, lean-tos, and other structures you might need around camp. A staff can also be used to make a spear or whittled down for a tool handle.
By Nathaniel Whitmore a Contributing Author to SHTFBlog and SurvivalCache
There are many articles online regarding various types of survival staffs that are basically types of walking sticks, perhaps of lightweight material, that have chambers to hold objects for survival. There are many clever designs. I do like the idea of such staffs, but wonder how well they will hold up. For this article, we are discussing the primitive staff. It might seem a very simple subject, but there are many considerations worth becoming familiar with, including wood selection, crafting tools and handles, building possibilities, self defense, and weapon-crafting possibilities.
At my campsite in the Catskills there were White Pines (Pinus strobus) and Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) saplings about 10 years or so in age and thick enough to block visibility and make walking difficult. Besides other considerations regarding location, it seemed fitting for a campsite to clear the thick trees that were already shading each other out. Small trees a few inches in diameter can be easily cut with a hatchet, camp saw, or machete. They provide material for building structures and for other craft. The unused material dries relatively quickly to provide future kindling and firewood. Plus, depending on the species of trees being felled, food and medicine can also be gleaned. In the case of White Pine and Hemlock the needles and bark can be used to make “tea” for medicinal use, pleasure, or as a nutritional supplement. Many tree barks have medicinal uses and sometimes leaves or other parts are also useful as food or medicine.
Related: Medicinal Uses of Pine Trees
Once felled, the branches can be removed from the saplings with a machete or hatchet. A small saw can be useful. I also like to have pruners in my pocket and some loppers nearby. Though more time consuming to use, such tools can more cleanly remove branches if desired. I like to leave interesting branches and crotches in case they are useful for some project later. But for the most part the idea is to work the sapling down to a relatively uniform building material. After the branches are removed the poles can be organized by size. This process gives you lots of material to work with for shelter building and the like.
You might consider removing the bark while the saplings are still green. For one thing it is easier to remove than when it dries to the trunk. You also may want to use it for making rope, baskets, and the like. It can be used as lashing for certain things right away. You probably can’t get nice sheets of bark from small trees such as you would want for bark baskets, but the possibilities with even small strips of bark are many. In some cases you will be able to find a stand of smaller trees that died from being shaded out. The wood might still be good quality. The Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) pictured is good quality even though it died as taller trees outgrew it.
Use as a Walking Stick
A primary use of a staff is as a walking stick. My first mentor in the world of wild edibles and survival skills, Taterbug Tyler, used to walk with a garden hoe that had been cut down to just a small triangle left of the blade. He claimed that he once saved himself from falling over a ledge by grabbing onto a tree root with the hoe. Mostly he used it as a walking stick in the rugged territory we hiked through looking for Ginseng (Panax quinquefolius). The blade came in handy for unearthing roots and flipping over rocks. It is a good tool and could be reproduced with the natural form of a hardwood staff.
Another use for a staff as a walking stick is for crossing streams. In certain territory you might have many streams weaving around, or you might need to repeatedly cross a stream that you are traveling along. Even if you find logs and rocks to help you cross, a staff can help you maintain balance. Without rocks to cross on a staff can be used like a pole vault to help you jump across what you otherwise could not. For these reasons, it is useful to carry a staff.
As a Weapon
I am fascinated with the bo staff and like to go with just over six feet as a standard cutting length. Particularly when Hickory (Carya spp.) or some other hard wood is found, it is an ideal size for a weapon as well as to begin making a bow or spear. When cutting the trees down and into length, look for nice straight six-foot sections. It is generally good to cut the trees where they bend in order to preserve straight sections and removed the crooks.
The staff has been a most basic striking implement since ancient times. Needing to use a weapon against wildlife is an unlikely scenario, but not impossible. Certainly, it could make you feel better to have some protection in hand. There has been more than once when the sound of coyotes or something unknown has prompted me to pick up a stick. Better yet is the feeling of knowing how to use it. Most people should be able to wield a staff should an emergency arise and be able to perform basic strikes to protect themselves. With training, the staff becomes an increasingly useful weapon, with several distinct benefits: there are reasons otherwise to keep it at hand, it is superb blocking instrument, any part can be used as the handle, and it can be used for a variety of strikes to virtually any part of the body. It can be swung with great momentum. It can strike low or high, as well as both in relatively rapid succession, and one can thrust with the end of the staff with the potential for damaging penetration. For these reasons, the staff is a primary weapon of many styles of martial art.
Read Also: Low Profile Survival Weaponry
Kobudo – the martial art of the Okinawan weapons (which is often integrated with Karate), Shaolin Kung Fu, Wing Chun Kung Fu, Ninjitsu and many others have their study of the staff. Learning the forms, or kata, of these arts is a way to learn special combat moves. Becoming proficient with these moves not only makes the weapon more effective, but provides a healthful exercise that improves balance, coordination, circulation, immunity, and awareness, all of which are important in a survival situation. Plus, study of the forms could provide a pastime during life in the wilderness.
Shelter and Selecting Wood
When selecting a location to set up camp one should consider finding a nice stand of relatively young trees or saplings that can serve as a source of materials. Your lean-to could be positioned centrally to reduce expenditure of time and energy. Of course, you also want to consider exposure to sun and other elements. In the part of the world where I live you generally want your lean-to opening toward the south to increase sun exposure in cold seasons. If there is a strong prevailing wind you will want to put the back of the lean-to toward it. You can also look for suitable trees to support a lean-to before you chop them down.
Of course, when gathering trees for utility, one should consider the various types of wood and their pros and cons. Generally, hardwoods are prefered. “Hardwood” usually refers to deciduous trees, even the softer ones. And “softwood” refers to conifers, which are usually softer than hardwoods (though soft hardwoods are softer than hard softwoods). Hemlock and Pine are both softwoods. Particularly White Pine is soft. Although both softwoods, Hemlock is much harder than White Pine. The White Pine saplings that are staff size (naturally or whittled down) are quite weak. They have certain uses, but would break far too easily under any significant weight or force.
White Ash (Fraxinus americanus) has a low moisture level, even when green. My freshly cut staff looked stouter than it felt, compared to the heavier woods (Witch Hazel, Iron Wood, Hickory…) I had been working with. Regarding bushcraft, one advantage of a lower moisture percentage wood is that building materials have less time to rot. If you are planning to turn the bush into a campsite there is a good chance you’ll be using some green wood. If you are building with green wood, there is a good chance for mold to develop as the wood dries out. Thick, heavy, damp wood will dry out much slower than something light like Ash. In fact, Ash has so little moisture that it can be burned green. As we all know, the drier the better. The survivalist, however, should be aware of the low moisture content of Ash in the event of finding no dead wood. Perhaps green would might be a better choice than soggy logs from the ground. Regarding a staff, Ash has the interesting benefit of being lighter. So, the strength of a green stick with the weight more of a dry one. Ash is the primary wood for baseball bats as it has strength but receives the vibration. Although not nearly the strength of Hickory, Ash is used in much the same way for bows and tools handles.
The bushcrafter should be aware of the various kinds of woods, including their benefits and weak points. Although the basic staff (or bo) seems simple, it’s uses are many.
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Many people would love to own an AR style rifle, but most of them simply can’t afford it. Sound like you? Well, James from Plan And Prepared has the solution: build your own! He put together a detailed guide that covers all the basics of building your own AR. I haven’t tried this myself, but […]
Easily one of the most iconic and beloved semi-automatic pistols of all time, the 1911 is a timeless design that has been around for over a hundred years and will likely be around for a hundred more.
But what makes the 1911 so adored by shooters? Just as importantly, what specific brands of 1911 stand out above the rest and should be the top ones for you to consider should you decide to buy a 1911? We’ll answer these questions in this article.
WHAT MAKES THE 1911 SO GREAT?
The reality is that there is a great multitude of things that make the 1911 a great pistol. The 1911 is not for everyone. There are pistols out there that are lighter, simpler, and carry more bullets, but no one can deny that there are specific attributes about the 1911 that have made it such an enduring pistol.
These attributes include:
- Accuracy. The 1911 is a highly accurate pistol thanks to its fixed barrel design, light trigger, soft recoil, and longer sight radius. Is it the most accurate production pistol made? That’s debatable, but its accuracy is a major plus.
- Light Trigger. The trigger of the 1911 alone makes it a dream to shoot. It’s very light and crisp, with a relatively short reset. The light trigger pull makes it unsafe to carry the 1911 chambered and cocked without the safety on, so you must train yourself to manually switch off the safety when drawing the weapon to fire. Nonetheless, the trigger on the 1911 is one of the biggest appeals. It makes it an excellent handgun to shoot for target practice, competition, or for tactical training.
- Slim Design. The 1911 is a naturally slim possible, which means shooters with smaller hands can comfortably grip the weapon and it’s easy to conceal carry. The obvious trade-off is fewer bullets in the magazine (the standard 1911 magazine holds either 7 or 8 rounds).
- Customization. The 1911 is one of the most customizable firearms on the planet. The AR-15, Glock, and Ruger 10/22 are the only other guns that can match it for the number of spare accessories and add-ons that you can buy. This means you can customize your 1911 to be exactly the way you want it to be. For SHTF purposes, this means that spare magazines and parts will be relatively easy to find in comparison to other pistols.
- Power. Most 1911s are chambered for the .45 ACP caliber, which is a very powerful bullet that will put a big hole in its target. While 1911s are also available in other calibers such as .22 LR or 9mm, if you’re going to buy a 1911, most would agree that it should be in .45.
None of this is to say that the 1911 is not without faults. It has a more complicated takedown procedure than more modern pistols. It is heavy, only holds 7-8 rounds in the magazine. And most 1911 guns require a break-in period of around 200-300 rounds before they can become reliable.
Still, the 1911 reigns supreme as one of the most popular pistol designs of all time. It’s a perfectly valid option as a range gun, for professional competition shooting, as a home defense gun, or for an SHTF sidearm.
Since the 1911 is so popular, there are naturally many different brands and models available. Narrowing down our selection to just five brand recommendations above the others is difficult, but here are five of the best 1911 brands available:
Colt was the original manufacturer of the 1911 (using John Browning’s design), and the phrases “Colt 1911” and “Colt 45” have now become iconic. Colt 1911s today are known for their reliability right out of the box.
Go to Colt’s website, and you will find a wide variety of different models available. Colt produces classic models such as the Mark IV Series 70 based on the original M1911A1. It was issued to troops in World War II, but they also make modern options such as the Rail Gun that are made for duty use, the Gold Cup built for competition shooting, the Commander model with a shorter barrel, and the Defender with an even shorter barrel and grip.
Colt 1911s are not cheap by any means, but you will get what you pay for due to their exceptional quality. Besides, there’s something cool about saying that you own a true ‘Colt 1911.’
Another high-quality option for a 1911 is Kimber, with their custom model available in a wide variety of calibers and configurations. Not only can you buy the Kimber Custom in .45 ACP, but it’s also available in .38 Super, 9mm Luger, 10mm AUTO, and even .40 S&W.
The Custom model uses a full-length guide rod (in contrast to most 1911s that use a shorter length guide rod), and modern upgrades such as forward serrations, a beavertail grip safety, extended thumb safety, and a beveled magazine well for faster and smoother reloading.
The Custom TLE II and Warrior models are also available, which are designed for military and law enforcement use. These are an excellent choice for a duty weapon or as a durable SHTF sidearm. As with Colt, Kimber 1911s are highly expensive, but as the old saying goes, you have to pay for quality.
Ruger began producing 1911s only a few years ago, but they have quickly proven themselves to be one of the best 1911 manufacturers on the market. The Ruger SR1911 is their standard line, which is available in both the full 5-inch and the shorter 4.25-inch Commander sized barrel versions.
Whereas most 1911s use a Series 80-style firing system, the SR1911 uses the more traditional Series 70-style firing system just like the Colt Mark IV Series 70. Many 1911 aficionados prefer a Series 70-type model. It’s regarded as being the original firing system of the 1911, and 70 models also tend to have a lighter trigger system than 80 models.
‘Series 70’ and ‘Series 80’ are currently trademarks owned by Colt, but the terms are still used to denote the specific firing systems. The Series 80 simply has an internal safety system that prevents the possibility of discharge should the gun be dropped and the hammer falls on its own.
The Ruger SR1911 also comes equipped with modern parts such as an extended thumb safety and beavertail grip safety, and forward cocking serrations. In essence, it represents the traditional 1911 firing system integrated with modern upgrades. The SR1911 is also very reasonably priced in the $700 to $800 range and sometimes can be found for even less than that.
Many consider Springfield to offer the best quality for the money. Their 1911s are routinely priced less than $1,000 (other than the premium models), and they make an extremely wide variety of model options.
Springfield makes practically any kind of 1911 you can think of, from the standard G.I models, like what the troops carried in World War II, to competition ready guns or duty 1911s with modern upgrades and concealed carry variations with shorter grips and barrels. They are also available in different calibers as well.
The neat thing about Springfield is how they will ship many of their 1911s with three magazines (instead of the standard two), with a holster and double mag holder. This essentially gives you a complete kit right out of the box and can save you on money for accessories that you would have to buy anyway.
If you want the best 1911 possible and are willing to pay for it, many would say that you should go with Wilson Combat. Not only does Wilson manufacture high-quality parts and accessories for 1911s that can be added to other brands, but they also manufacture actual 1911’s themselves.
Wilson originally got started manufacturing spare parts and customization options for the 1911, Smith & Wesson Model 10, and Remington 870. Since then, however, they have become the most well-known for the aftermarket parts they produce for the 1911. Some other 1911 manufacturers will even install Wilson Combat parts on their production guns, and many people also will customize their 1911s with Wilson Combat parts to enhance performance.
Wilson Combat 1911s are not only popular with civilians. They also have been utilized extensively by military and police forces. They have seen action all around the world, and are guaranteed to deliver one-inch groups at twenty-five yards.
For a premium 1911, Wilson Combat should be a top option. Even if you can’t afford a Wilson Combat 1911, you can always buy from another manufacturer and then customize it with Wilson parts.
If the 1911 is your dream gun, these five manufacturers should be your top choices. Even though the 1911 has become a little outdated in some ways when compared to the more modern, polymer framed guns, it’s not a gun that’s going to be going away anytime soon either. They truly are a joy to shoot, and if you spend the time learning how to use one, the 1911 can save your life in a life-or-death situation as well.
A few years back, Springfield Armory came out with a single stack 9mm to much fanfare and then as quickly as the pistol launched, they promptly recalled the pistol due to a possible unsafe condition. The recall read as follows (from manufacturer): “Springfield Armory is initiating this voluntary safety recall to upgrade 3.3 XD-S 9mm and 3.3 XD-S .45ACP pistols with new components, which eliminate the possibility of a potentially dangerous condition. We want to emphasize that no injuries have been reported to date. Springfield has determined that under exceptionally rare circumstances, some 3.3 XD-S™ 9mm and .45ACP caliber pistols could experience an unintended discharge during the loading process when the slide is released, or could experience a double-fire when the trigger is pulled once. The chance of these conditions existing is exceptionally rare, but if they happen, serious injury or death could occur.”
Springfield Armory apparently learned the lessons of Remington and as soon as this unsafe condition was brought to their attention, they leaned into getting back every XD-S 3.3″ barrel pistol that they sold. They then repaired the pistols and returned them to the customers. They also changed the manufacturing process on all future pistols from the factory. Now every XD-S 3.3″ off the line has the new improvements.
Related: The Katrina Pistol
If you are looking to buy a used XD-S 9mm 3.3″ pistol, you can tell very quickly if the pistol has been upgraded by looking at the outside grip safety without disassembling the pistol. XD-S 9mm 3.3″ that have been upgraded have a visible roll pin on the left and right side of the grip safety. See below.
With the new upgrades and the bugs worked out, we loved the XD-S 9mm. As promised, it shot great. The stock fiber optic sights were better than average and the slim profile of the pistol is very appealing to concealed carry customers and under cover police. The downside of the single stack is a magazine that carries 7 rounds in the flush fitting mag and 8 rounds in the extended magazine. Like I always say, I have never heard someone say “I wish I had less rounds in a gun fight.”
Recoil System: Dual Spring w/ Full Length Guide Rod
Sights: Fiber Optic Front & Dovetail Rear (Steel)
Weight: (with Empty Magazine) 23 ozs. Height: 4.4″ w/ Compact Mag, 5″ w/ Mid-Mag X-Tension™
Slide: Forged Steel, Melonite Finish
Barrel: 3.3″ Hammer Forged, Steel, Melonite® / 1:10 Twist
Grip Width: .9″
Frame: Black Polymer
Magazines: 1 – 7 Round Flush Fitting, 1 – 8 Round With Mid-Mag X-Tension™, Stainless Steel
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From self-defense to fighting terrorists, the question of how to build newer and better weapons will always be a challenge. Where to start from? What weapon is the most effective one? What features to have in mind? A lot of questions are to be asked, and finding the answers isn’t the easiest task.
The basics are always where you will return to solve problems as well as where you will go to explore new innovations and ideas.
So let’s start with the basics!
When it comes to the arena of personal defense, a good quality weapon must have at least six basic features. We’ll take them one by one in the following article.
Be Effective Within the Limited Scope of Self-defense
Consider a situation where you believe that a nuclear bomb is the most powerful weapon on the planet, and a ballpoint pen the weakest. Do you really need a nuclear bomb (as they exist in known modern technology) to take out a thug trying to get into your home?
While you may be enraged enough to lob a nuke, that doesn’t mean it is an effective weapon for your situation. Oddly enough, the ballpoint pen will actually make a better weapon against a single attacker. A modified ballpoint pen that can deliver poison or a dart will work even better.
Video first seen on ValvexFTW – ” How-to’s Weapons Inventions “
Put the Element of Surprise Back on Your Side
There is no question that an AK-47 or an AR-15 can be used to deter one person or several from harming you and your loved ones, but the size of these weapons makes them a bit hard to hide.
If you are out in public, carrying these weapons can alert more determined attackers to the fact that you are ready and able to defend yourself. This, in turn, takes away any element of surprise that might have bought you both leverage and a second or two of time.
Because there are limits to legal weapon ownership, but no limit to what criminals can obtain, this can put you at a serious disadvantage.
Perhaps we can even say never bring an “assault rifle” to a machine gun fight. In this situation, you might be better off carrying a concealed handgun because it won’t be noticed unless there is a need to use it. At that point, your attacker will have already underestimated you and followed through with an opening action that you have a better chance of defeating.
Even if you have a .45 caliber handgun, you may be overpowered after taking out just one adversary. This is just one area where being able to innovate and design better weapons will serve you well as a prepper. Being able to pack the power of a machine gun with the selectivity of a conventional rifle into something the size of a handgun would put you well ahead of any attacker.
Be Focused in Target Acquisition
As far as small, effective weapons go, grenades are certainly easy to conceal and add plenty of surprise to a situation. Now let us look at a situation where someone pulls a gun on you, either in your own home or while you are in public. Let us also say that a family member, or even other innocent people are in the area.
No matter how carefully you aim the grenade, there is a chance that innocent bystanders will be hurt by the shrapnel. Unless you have a well-staged fire zone to throw the grenade into, and an ability to limit damage to bystanders, it won’t make for a good personal defense weapon.
In a world where terrorists are running rampant, it can be said that a weapon with too limited an impact has just as harmful an impact on bystanders as one that is too far reaching. For this scenario, let’s say you are out in public and a terrorist wearing a suicide bomb vest pulls a gun on you.
Even though a grenade won’t work in this scenario, a knife or a ballpoint pen won’t do much good either.
A rifle, on the other hand might be more suited to stopping this tragedy because it will be possible to shoot the terrorists while he/she is still further away from large numbers of people. This is yet another area where innovation in consumer level self-defense weapons might do far more good than you realize.
Be Free of Interference by Others
This includes free of the cost of ammunition, repair, and legal oversight.
Many people look to guns as classic self-defense weapons because they are effective, reliable, and efficient.
As effective as guns, tasers, and other projectile based systems may be, they also come with a number of prohibitive costs that include:
- The actual cost of the weapon. A good quality handgun from a reputable manufacturer can cost several hundred dollars even before you add on better sights and suitable hand grips.
- The cost of basic training and practice. If you weren’t raised in a community where gun ownership is part of the society, then it can be quite expensive to learn how to shoot, store, and manage a gun. In a similar way, if you live in a city or other restrictive area, honing and keeping your skills up can be quite expensive. Aside from paying for time at an indoor range, you may also have to pay for ammunition provided by the facility.
- The cost of advanced courses and situation awareness training. The legal definition of a crime includes having making a specific, knowing decision to commit that act. As such, it should come as no surprise that someone intent on committing a crime will also be as well prepared as possible to carry it out.
If you are interested in self-defense, then you must also be prepared with as many skills and strategies as possible. Unless you are in law enforcement or in the military, the cost of that kind of training is very expensive.
No matter whether you choose knives, bows and arrows, guns, tasers, or swords, the cost associated with advanced training and practice may well be beyond your budget.
- Weapons, like any other machine, require maintenance and repairs. Contrary to popular belief, guns aren’t the only weapons on the market that come with a high repair and maintenance costs. Bows, knives, and swords can also cost several hundred dollars to repair or maintain over time.
- The cost and availability of ammunition. If you remember the scandal surrounding the cost and lack of availability of .22LR ammo? No matter how you look at it, the cost of weapons that launch projectiles can be very expensive. To add insult to injury, ammo scarcity can act as a control point that may make it difficult, if not impossible to use the weapon you bought for self-defense.
- The cost of permits and licenses. While terrorists and criminals who get away with murder and mayhem on a routine basis never worry about these costs, the average prepper has to deal with them along with every other expense on this list.
In these times, you might not always feel comfortable with learning how to make your own weapons and ammunition. At the very least, the basics may come in handy if a social collapse occurs and you wind up having to develop designs that go beyond a crudely fashioned spear made from a sapling and knapped stones.
Even something as simple as understanding what kind of blade shape will be most effective can make the difference between life and death.
Expand Your Strategy Options, Not Limit Them
In the arena of self-defense, it is very easy to have too many weapons that don’t work well at close range, or ones that don’t do enough damage to the target regardless of the distance. Avoiding both traps will require a good bit of trial and error. Before you even begin designing a new weapon, take time to study existing weapons and try them out.
While you are studying different weapons, pay careful attention to the basic parts and how they work. Think about how the weapon would work in a building, in a crowded area, or in very close quarters.
By the time you complete your study, you should have a list of weapons that will work well within arm’s length, some that will work several feet away, and others that will work up to or beyond 100 yards away.
No matter which one you plan to build, think about how existing devices limited defensive and offensive strategies, and think about how you can change the fundamental parts of the weapon to better suit your needs.
The Best Weapon is One You Have
Over the years, considerable controversy has emerged over the “Top 5” guns, knives, tasers, crossbows, swords, and other weapons. People in the military, law enforcement, or other walks of life are always more than happy to share their experiences with any given weapon.
For every testimonial shared, you are sure to find dozens that had a similar experience, and just as many others that had differing outcomes.
If you actually go out and try these different weapons, you will more than likely find yourself agreeing with some people, but not all of them. From that perspective, the best self-defense weapon isn’t one that you heard about, and should aim to acquire. Rather, it will have the following features:
- It should be a weapon that you are comfortable using. Just because a .45 caliber semi-automatic has plenty of stopping power, that doesn’t mean you should give up a lower caliber revolver that you feel comfortable with. In a similar fashion, if you feel more comfortable wielding a knife at close ranges, it doesn’t make much sense to draw a gun just because you have it on hand.
- Your personal defense weapons should fit your needs, budget, and comfort levels. In a stressful, life threatening encounter with a criminal or terrorist, a weapon that you are uncomfortable with can cause you to freeze up, miss the target, or lose complete control of the weapon and the situation.
A personal defense weapon should be something you feel comfortable carrying at all times. Remember, even a ballpoint pen can kill at close range in numerous ways. Never underestimate the simplicity of a device just because it looks harmless, or others don’t see it for what it is.
Within some limits, a weapon that you design yourself can truly be more effective and more efficient than anything you might buy based on the beliefs of others.
This article has been written by Carmela Tyrell for Survivopedia.
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The 10mm auto is a fine cartridge that was created as a very real solution to a very real problem. Unfortunately the 10mm performed exactly as designed while predictable humans went and messed it all up. But before we start, if you are quite familiar with the 10mm auto and perhaps even happily own one, you likely live in Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Alaska or Texas. According to a contact at Smith & Wesson, the vast majority of 10s are sold in those states and thusly the vast majority of appreciation for the 10mm is found on those vast states. By the way, if you add up the entire populations of MT, WY, ID and AK, it is still less than one-sixth that of Texas.
Revolvers these days seem to jump from .22 to .357 without so much as changing shelves in the gun store. And then they go up from there to .41, .44 Mag, and onto the wrist-snapping .454, .460, .480, and a choice of .500s. While pistol cartridges, on the other hand, look like a bunch of inbreeds sharing the same clothes and bald heads. In fact it can be comical debating the differences between the .380 through the .40 like little kids acting tough in the sandbox. The .45 struts around like the big man on campus, but is actually just an old guy driving a sportscar. And then there is the 10mm looking like the giant blond Russian villain in a Bond movie. A huge side of beef that can throw a man across the room.
You’re The Man
Jeff Cooper was instrumental in the design of the 10mm and as a .45 fanatic, Cooper’s standards, while socially abrasive, were high, and the 10mm reflects that quest for handgun perfection (yes, that’s a not-so-subtle nod to Glock). The original 10mm produced over 600 pounds of energy by firing a 170 grain jacketed hollow point at 1300 feet per second. For reference, a Buffalo Bore +P+ 9mm can generate about 500 ft-lbs of energy with a 115 grain bullet at 1400 fps (if your gun can handle it), while regular 9mm loads often carry less than 300 ft-lbs of energy. But for further reference, stuff some Buffalo Bore 155 grain into your 10mm and you can easily get 774 ft-lbs of energy. Even the 220 grain hard-cast bullet bear loads I use in my 10mm scream along at 1200 feet per second and still exceed 700 ft-lbs of energy. And that’s out of a gun not much bigger than my subcompact Glock 26!
Related: The Katrina Pistol
To handle a real 10mm cartridge (not that watered down FBI stuff) a new gun was needed and the Bren Ten was born. Unfortunately health problems prevented the Bren Ten from reaching puberty, heck it didn’t even reach kindergarten before going bankrupt, but in it’s short life it did become a meme for Miami cops just like the 24-hour five-O’clock shadow. However, the genie of autopistol power was out of the bottle. On a side note, the actual Bren Ten used on the Miami Vice TV show shot .45 blanks and was heavily chromed to show up better in low light scenes.
The generally accepted demise of the 10mm’s popularity is from a recoil level that is certainly more than the 9mm that many LEOs were qualifying with. The FBI was all hot and heavy for the 10mm when it arrived on the scene, and it is easy to imagine why the serious government shooters would be excited about what the 10mm offered. But for the vast majority of special agents and desk jockeys who draw down on paper as rarely as possible, the 10mm felt like Dirty Harry’s hand cannon. And don’t get them started on follow-up shots.
There was also another issue at work to shove the FBI in the direction of the .40 S&W and that was flat-out pistol durability. The 10mm is a much hotter load and all that bang takes it’s toll on hardware. Machining and metallurgy at the time was about as good as the music from the 1980s. But there were some winners in that decade with Guns N Roses and Glock among them. Unfortunately Smith & Wesson was not one of them. Smith produced a pistol named the 1076 and nicknamed the “FBI Pistol” after the bureau placed an order for 10,000 of them. But it only took 2400 of the pistols to arrive before the FBI canceled the order and moved on.
Tap Twice, They’re Small
The initial attempts to dilute the 10mm cartridge into something you could drink all day long punched a hole in the auto-cartridge lineup. And the .40 S&W stepped in and saved the day. Or so we thought. Today the difference between a 9mm and a .40 is minor in the big picture, but the difference between a 10mm and everything less than a 10mm is significant. Not only does the 10mm punch much harder, but also carries that energy far down range. So much so that a real 10mm (not that wimpy FBI stuff in the white box) has more umph at 100 yards than a .45 has at the muzzle. Even more, if you walked into a bar, the 10mm would be drinking beer with the .357/.44 magnum crowd rather than with the parabellum and its friends sipping cocktails. In fact, the 10mm routinely beats the .357 in arm wrestling, and often ties with the .41 Mag.
Is That Real?
If you saw a foot-and-a-half long auto pistol with a bore big enough to plug with your finger sitting in the display case at the gun store, you’d probably think it was a fake handgun, or at least a one-off custom job. And it’s true that autopistol designs present very real limits on cartridge size and design, but that’s no reason to throw out a perfectly good caliber just because the Feds found it a little too snappy for their manicured hands.
Related: Project Squirrel Gun
The two things the 10mm has over the smaller rimless cartridges is a longer case and a bigger bullet. The larger case holds enough powder to launch 200 grains of lead over 1200 feet per second, and light rounds at over 2400 FPS! That’s rifle territory. So with the right driver behind the wheel, er I mean slide, the 10mm is a serious deer hunting round coming out the chute of an auto-pistol that some choose to carry inside their waistband.
For decades, the .357 was the minimum gun in black bear country and the .44 Mag at the bottom of the list for trespassing on grizzly land, especially in Alaska where everything really is bigger. So when you reduce bullets to numbers, the 10mm puts some outstanding points on the board. Delivering over 600 foot pounds of energy was Cooper’s goal for his super cartridge. You can always downshift the powder load or bullet weight for lesser tasks, but you cannot put more power where it won’t fit. History recorded that the 10mm was uncomfortable to shoot by the average G-men and G-women. So while the 10s were being emasculated leading to the so-called “FBI Load,” the .40 S&W jumped in bed with the Fibs. Before we knew it, the 10mm auto was a footnote and if it wasn’t for a rabid constituency of 10-lovers, it would have died. Luckily Colt Firearms was one of those 10-lovers and produced the Delta Elite in 1987. The Delta Elite was a 1911-esque design that surely pleased Jeff Cooper who probably appreciated the 1911 in .45 more than Browning himself.
Colt to the Rescue
The Delta Elite is considered the first successful 10mm pistol but slow sales stopped production in 1996. Then at the 2008 SHOT Show, Colt announced the Delta Elite in 10mm would return. Overlapping the Colt timeline, Glock produced its first 10mm in 1990, a large frame named the Glock 20. But in a twist of fate, the Glock 22 (.40 S&W) was released first because the FBI flip-flop from 10mm to .40 S&W thus back-burnering the 20 for a few months. Six years later in 1996, the subcompact 10mm named the Glock 29 was released into the wild. And today there are two 29s (Gen4 and SF) along with a new long-slide MOS version named the G40. So in case you lost count, your local gun store could four distinct versions of Glocks in 10mm. And there are at least half-a-dozen other major manufactures producing 10mm pistols as well.
Ten is the New Ten
Today, the cult-like following of the 10mm is being replaced by the mature appreciation of the cartridge that Colonel Cooper wanted. 10mm ammo is plentiful with bullets for self-defense, big game hunting, and even hard-cast bullets for the most dangerous animals in North America including grizzly and polar bears. It should be obvious that if your stable of survival-oriented handguns has increased beyond the traditions, them give serious consideration to the 10mm auto. In fact, think long and hard about the 10mm as a single solution for both defense and hunting when the World goes all ROL on you. And for the record, I think of Glocks like food storage; more is better and I don’t get rid of the old just because I got something newer.
Related: Glock 42 Review
Being essentially a .40 Magnum, the 10mm auto has changed from a choice between pain or power, into a fighting man’s cartridge that has the respectable knockdown energy and flat trajectory that lesser rounds can only dream of. So like the rattlesnake, yes it bites, but those new to the 10mm most likely just misunderstand it. And that is all about to change…again.
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The coming of any new year starts out of the gate brimming with a plethora of opportunities to achieve many things. This includes wrapping up goals, projects, and missions from the previous year and a new chance to sit down to lay out the priorities for the year ahead. All of this should be approached with a fresh breath of air. You know how it feels and smells just after a big storm has passed, especially a lightning storm that charges the air with fresh ozone. You can smell it. Take it in, breath deep, chin up and embrace the coming 12 months with a positive attitude to keep plugging away at your prepper initiatives.
The virtual plague of the past eight years is ending. Pro or con, this country has slipped into an international quagmire of disrespect and disregard. We hope this status can be regained in short order. Domestically, the economy is beyond flat. Regardless of what the administration peeps say, nearly 8 million Americans are out of work and countless more are underemployed. All of this is seasoning for a SHTF recipe.
The New Political Climate
Five generations of citizens have been on welfare now to the point that it is considered the entitlements of all entitlements. This needs to end, too. And the “government” still does not get it. The IRS just rolled back the per diem expense allowance for vehicle business travel for 2017, ostensibly because they say fuel costs are down. Today at home, unleaded gasoline is $2.19 a gallon. Up over twenty cents in a month. An executive order just cancelled more offshore drilling and the huge new oil field in Texas cannot be tapped even if we had the pipelines to transport it to refineries. All this adds stress to an economic recovery.
Related: Prepper Guns on a Budget
Health care for the working class is in crisis. My wife and child pay $1100 a month for basic care with a huge deductible. It is only good for a catastrophic health incident or accident. Doctor and hospital costs are totally out of control. My GP’s office charges $65 for a flu shot, while a local pharmacy charges only $25. Go figure. And on and on it goes.
Taking Care of No. 1
Not to be purely selfish, but this is the age of taking care of you and your family first, then help others as you can. This includes the entire realm of personal attentions to health and welfare for you and family, then taking care of business in preparation against any potential threats that might develop this year and beyond. Once you have your own affairs relatively in order, then you can reach out if you choose or then direct your efforts or attention to other projects. This is a tall order, so there is no better time to take it all on than right now. Nothing happens all at once. It’s like a huge marble statue that you chip away at day after day. You may never see the final product, but you can take pride and honor in the constant effort toward the final goal.
Review the Current Plan
This is assuming you have a plan or sort of directional guide in hand and that it is written down to pass around, invite comments, add to, take away, alter, shift, redirect, adapt, adopt, and then initiate. If not, do this first, now. Perhaps reconsider bugging in or out. For existing plans, review them now, item by item. If you have achieved some of the steps, check them off and or add comments about parts that need to be rechecked, revised, or completed. Try to add completion dates so that some achievement schedule can be established. Otherwise, everything is just floating out there undone or half done.
Things change all the time. Adjust your plan according to changes that you anticipate or not. For example, maybe you plan to acquire a new bug out property or perhaps an RV, camping trailer or other major purchase to give you options during a SHTF event. Such changes can produce a number of new tasks to accomplish. Plan accordingly.
2017 To Do Tips
Defensive security should be reviewed and shored up if lax. Add new supplies, weapons, ammo, accessories, and gear to fulfill your security needs. Again, review what you have and then move forward. Perhaps it is time to beef up your home security with heavier locks, window storm covers or other precautions. This first initiative includes inspection, maintenance, repairs, or replacements of weapons, gear, and equipment already in hand. Add to this additional time for training, shooting practice, formal shooting course training, and then more practice for everyone. This should include reactionary drills at the bug in or out location. Have everybody comfortable to respond as necessary. If needed, buy an extra firearm and add to ammo supplies.
Unpack your bug out bags, inspect everything, recycle old out of date supplies and repack. Inspect the bag, too for wear and tear, zipper function, clean it up. Refresh the entire kit bag. Same for other quick grab bags full of gear for a bug out. Do the same for your EDC satchel, bag, or backpack. Clean guns, oil knives, refresh batteries in everything, and get the everyday carry squared away again.
Read Also: Survival Books for Your Bunker
Check out your entire bug in food stocks and supplies both at the bug in locale and the secondary bug out site, camper, trailer or whatever. Recycle dated foods, snacks, staples like beans, rice, flour, sugar, etc. Add new canned goods, and other foods you eat regularly. Restock or recycle water stores and add more as space allows.
Replace batteries in everything you own including house smoke alarms, security system backups, communication radios, AM-FM-Weather radios, flashlights, electronic or regular illuminated gun scopes, rangefinders, bore lights, lanterns, cameras, hearing aids, and such. Charge or replace vehicle batteries, ATV or SUV batteries. Replace old batteries in storage with fresh ones.
Revisit all medical supplies, personal medicines, aid devices, CPAP, and OTC med stocks. Check first aid kits, refresh as needed. Add new boxes of band aides, gauze, wraps, bandages, and other medical supplies. Check stocks on antiseptic ointments, creams, Vaseline, lotions, and other supplies to support health care and injury recovery.
Do an inventory on all other kinds of consumable supplies. The list could include all types of paper products from paper towels, toilet paper, paper plates, a variety of tapes, glues, oils and lubricants, grease, chainsaw oil, and anything else other than cooking materials that you use up on a regular basis. Inventory all types of parts for plumbing, HVAC, motor parts, etc.
Refresh fuel supplies from regular gasolines, diesel, white gas for lanterns or camp stoves, bottled propane, and charcoal lighter if used. Ditto on charcoal for outdoor cooking, newspaper supplies for charcoal chimneys, and stock up plenty of matches and butane lighters.
Now is the time to take advantage of New Year sales, too. Watch newspaper ad flyers, visit the big box outdoor stores, gun shops, and gun shows to stock up or shop for advantageous price points on gear and stuff you need or want to add.
A bright horizon comes with 2017 but that is no reason to let our guards down. Natural disasters cannot be controlled. Terrorism is still viable and a threat. Our borders remain open for now. Crime is still rampant. There is plenty to be considered about to remain vigilant.
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by James Walton Would you believe that this powerful propellant, that has changed the world as we know it, was made as far back as 142 AD? With that knowledge,
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Over the weekend, thousands of lucky people got a firearm for Christmas. For many of them, it’s the first firearm they’ve ever owned. If you or someone you know is a brand new gun owner, then check out these gun safety tips. They should be practiced over and over until they become second nature. Preppers […]
If you were charged with putting together a basic 3-gun set of weapons for prepping and survival use, how much money would you need to spend to get the job done. If you are new to this game, then this may be a perplexing question. It is one I highly recommend for some judicious research, reading, inquiry and shopping. After all, in a tight situation, your life may depend on the answer. There are a multitude of choices. Think of this guide as a baseline for your budget picks.
Let’s suppose we gave you $1000. Could you assemble a weapon’s set including a basic handgun, a rifle, and a shotgun with that amount? We’re talking good, serviceable guns, too, not rusted junk either. Let’s explore the options.
A Presumptive Assumption
Before we wrestle with the suggestion of a mere three gun weapons set, know we are simply laying out the most basic defensive weapons deployment for personal and property security, hunting, and other prepper uses. We know full well that most preppers will have many more options, but we have to start somewhere, then build on it. For the purposes of these recommendations, we are limiting our selection to one handgun, one rifle, and one shotgun. The idea is to suggest that such a cache could be acquired for at least $1000, possibly less. And we are not necessarily talking used guns either, but that option should be left open. There is nothing wrong with used guns in great condition.
Our choices may not be your choices, as there are many, many options in today’s gun market. Enough so as to be rather confusing to those just getting into prepping and deciding that some form of personal protection in the manner of firearms may be needed. To that end, our suggestions are focused to fit these restrictive budgetary limitations.
The Basic Prepper Handgun
For practical purposes here, we are not going to engage in a full or detailed dissertation on all the potential choices as to handgun type, brand, model or caliber. Thus we are not going to mince words either.
Read Also: The Katrina Pistol
The recommended choice for a first prepper handgun or rather pistol to be used primarily for self-defense is a semi-automatic pistol chambered for the highly common and widely available 9mm. Sure there are other choices, but this is a solid middle of the road choice between the .380 ACP and a .45 ACP. Sorry, but the .22 rimfire is not on the list for defensive purposes.
Why a pistol and not a revolver? For a one gun choice, the capacity to quickly change out loaded magazines is paramount. Indeed, revolvers may be easier to learn to handle and shoot, but they are too slow to reload under most conditions. A pistol is a better choice when used correctly.
With very careful shopping, a consumer can find a 9mm pistol in the $300-400 range, $500 tops. Among the list to inspect would be the SCCY (pronounced sky), Beretta Nano, Glock 43 (used), Hi-Point, Kel-Tec, Ruger LC9 (used), Ruger P-Series, Smith and Wesson (used), Stoeger, Taurus and perhaps some others. There is no evaluation of these models here, just cost considerations.
As with all gun purchases, a trustworthy gun dealer can steer you to a quality gun either new or used to suit your purposes. Just do your research, inquire of other shooters, and go into any gun deal with eyes and ears wide open.
The Survivalist Rifle
Now it gets a bit tougher. It would be easy to simply suggest getting an AR-15 platform rifle in 5.56/223 or even perhaps the .300 Blackout or 6.8 SPC for a bit more power. You make that choice, but know the AR-15 would be a good choice. For some, a bolt action rifle would be good, too. An AR could be used with basic open sights, but likely a bolt action will need a scope for an extra cost. Optics could be added later of course. Either can be used for hunting.
Right now AR prices have moderated especially since the election and the 2nd Amendment scare is over for now, we hope. Dealers overstocked thinking Hillary would win. Now they are trying to sell off their inventories. Right now is a good time to buy an AR.
Working gun shows regularly, I have seen new, in the box ARs selling for slightly under $500, $600 tops depending on the exact model. Check out these brands: DPMS or Bushmaster. They offer utility bare bones models. Used ARs can be found, but inspect them thoroughly before buying or get a return guarantee if possible. Avoid buying somebody else’s trouble.
As with the pistol, the AR rifle offers quick change magazines that can be pre-loaded and ready. Under dire circumstances sustained fire can be critical. The AR accessory aftermarket is loaded with options. For a basic first prepper rifle, the AR is hard to beat.
The Elementary Smoothbore
Buying a decent shotgun is probably the easiest of the triple threat. Recommendations are easier, too. Buy a pump action shotgun, either a classic Remington 870, a Mossberg 500 or Savage in 12 gauge. Get serious and forget the 20 gauge. Stick with a basic hardwood stock, but synthetic is OK if the price point is right. An ideal defense shotgun would have a barrel of 26-inches or less. The 20-inch tactical barrel is easier to handle indoors and around barriers. Make sure the barrel accepts screw in choke tubes so the shotgun can be used for multiple purposes such as hunting.
Related: Survival Shotgun Selection
Good, serviceable used pump shotguns can be found for less than $200. New ones can be found for $269-329 with some companies offering rebates as well. I just saw an H&R Partner Protection model at Academy for $179, new. There may be additional sales after the New Year begins.
If you work hard, shop smart, and have some luck, this 3-gun set can be bought for $1000 or close to it. Next as appropriations become available start stocking ammo. How much? At least 1000 rounds each of pistol and rifle ammo and 500 shotshell rounds. Again, these are starting places.
Undoubtedly, these recommendations will spark debate, criticism, and opinions. We welcome that. The ultimate goal here is to outfit new preppers with the basic gear they need to survive a host of SHTF scenarios.
In the post Apocalyptic scenario when rule of law breaks down then householders need to protect their families – but aren’t we almost there already with home invasions and zombies hell-bent not just on taking your stuff but causing harm?
And it’s your right to do everything in your power to protect your family? Well, unfortunately, protecting your family comes with all sorts of rules – make one wrong move and there’s a big fat court case waiting which doesn’t seem fair since it was the zombies who went on the attack.
FBI crime statistics for 2015 released in late September 2016 put the violent crimes figure at 1,197,704. That is a lot of crime and one can expect the 2016 figures to be even higher- it takes them around nine months to collect and process all the data.
The weapons you use will depend on the situation. If you are outside in a bug out situation and have a reasonable early warning system – like people standing watch – you can get into position to take out at least some of the zombies before they even know that you know they are on the attack. If you can see them coming across the lawn/through the garden and you have a clear view then the bow and arrow may be a way to engender fear and perhaps stop the attack.
First off you want weapons that can be fired from a long range to deter a zombie mob – you certainly don’t want to be up against them at close range As soon as you fire a gun the zombies know where to fire back – but a silent arrow coming out of seemingly nowhere that finds its mark gives you an advantage.
Longbow versus Crossbow
The entry level and basic longbows aren’t too pricey but as you move to the high end of the range used by professional hunters they get very expensive. The pros are that they have a decent fire rate if you are experienced but you have to nock the arrow – that means adjusting it into the bowstring and pull the string each time.
Long Bows require quite a bit of power and suit the more burly types with plenty of strength in their arms. They are also deadly and silent – just what you need for to surprise a group of zombies on the attack and throw them into disarray. But if you are going to be dodging around trees and buildings fast they can prove unwieldy.
The crossbow is like a longbow placed on its side, set onto a stock and is fired from the shoulder. It is both powerful and accurate even if one isn’t an expert. The advantage lies in being able to nock an arrow and carry it around ready to fire in an emergency – but that’s only once – after this you have to nock the next arrow.
It is also easier to fire so women and men who don’t have the requisite strength (around 80 lbs draw weight and upwards) in their arms to use a long bow, but have the accuracy, can handle the crossbow very efficiently. With the long bow you have to maintain that draw weight until you have loosed the arrow – with the crossbow once you have the arrow in position you don’t have to maintain that pressure – you just fire when you need to.
The cross bow has a slower rate of fire than the longbow and also it is not as silent – you can hear the shudder from the bowstring if fairly close to the target so this may alert zombies. Arrows from both types are reusable but in a zombie attack you are unlikely to have time to go around retrieving arrows.
Before considering these as defense weapons check your state laws – some states have placed bans on certain bows. You know the situation – zombies out to kill you family invade your property, you save your family yet you get stuck in jail anyway because you were in possession of an illegal weapon.
They are fairly light weight and easy to carry around and almost anyone can use one. Every person who knows guns well will have a personal preference so remember anything said here is just an opinion. The main thing is to know your weapon. Buying a gun and keeping it in an gun safe for an emergency then taking out the unfamiliar weapon is a waste of time – chances are you will be disarmed by the zombies and have your own gun used against you. Statistics in the US indicate that people are more likely to have their guns stolen than to actually use them in self-defense! The good thing about guns is that people don’t usually argue with someone holding a gun – so there may be no need to actually fire it.
The pro-gun and anti-gun lobbies are both vociferous in quoting the statistics that ‘prove’ their point of view but let’s just record here that no one wants to feel the guilt of causing the accidental or unnecessary death of another human being.
Dr Garen J Wintermute is the Director of the Violence Prevention Research Program at UC Davis Medical Center. He is an emergency medicine physician with a great deal of experience in gunshot wounds. In an article published in the New England Journal of Medicine titled Guns, Fear, the Constitution, and the Public’s Health Wintermute says that there are risks if you keep guns at home, mentioning figures of an increase in the risk of homicide from 40 to 170% and the risk of suicide from 90 to 460%. Youngsters who commit suicide with a gun usually do so with a firearm kept at home.
To keeps kids safe guns are legally required to be locked away in gun safes – meaning in the chance of an attack you are unlikely to get to the weapon in time. To be effective the gun needs to be carried on your body at all times– like a police officer. How many homeowners are ready for that?
And as for women who carry guns in their handbags – what chance to they have if the handbag is ripped off them in the street? A gun needs to be in a shoulder holster or ankle holster or tucked into the waistband of pants where a person can reach it immediately if necessary.
Which Gun do I Choose?
What you are looking for in case of a zombie attack is stopping power before the maniacs have a chance to injure or kill your family. There’s a reason law enforcement agencies worldwide choose the Glock 17 9×19 pistol. The GLOCK “Safe Action”® System has 3 independent, automatic safeties to ensure it does not go off by accident and zombies aren’t going to be hanging around to wait for the click when all 17 rounds are used up.
Popular too is the Sig Sauer P229 a more compact version of the SIG P226 – again one favored by law enforcement and the military worldwide.
Making the lists of the most popular handguns in the US are also the Beretta PX4, Taurus, Kimber, Ruger P89 and the Smith and Wesson Model 29, .44 Magnun Revolver. Many homeowners favor a shotgun but it is hardly a personal weapon that is carried at all times – however if you can get to it in case of a zombie attack it can be very persuasive when loaded with #8 buckshot but it is not a long range weapon. For that you need a rifle.
Although they are probably illegal in almost every single state in the US the AK47 is am amazing assault rifle – it normally takes 30 rounds, but you can get 40 and even 75. Easy to reload, they work even if they get wet or are mishandled and with their rapid fire rate are perfect for stopping zombies in their tracks – unless the person using it doesn’t use the standard spray pattern of firing.
Don’t waste your time with inferior sprays. You need the police strength one capable of disabling a person for around 20 minutes giving your family a chance to escape, or restrain the zombie. SABRE produces police grade pepper spray that is used by law enforcements agencies worldwide.
Check the range advertised on the canister before buying. Also when using pepper spray it must always be sprayed downwind otherwise you incapacitate yourself. If kids are given pepper spray they need to be made aware of this.
Attacks happen so fast that even if you do have masks for the pepper spray there probably won’t be time to put them on, but especially for kids, masks could be useful.
A serious flashlight can be used to blind an attacker but if the zombie is armed it will usually shoot slightly to the left of where the flashlight is assuming the person is right handed, so hold the flashlight in your left hand and as far away from your body as possible. The TL 1000 Raybeck Outdoor has 1000 lumens –blindingly bright and also gives the user a pretty good idea as to which zombies are creeping across your front lawn.
They can be useful as a back up if kept charged and someone comes into range that is not carrying a gun. The TASER is the best brand to incapacitate a person giving you enough time to escape or tie them up for the authorities to deal with in a normal situation or for you to make alternative arrangements in a total breakdown of law and order situation. However take a look at this video to see why you should NOT rely on one as your only weapon of defense:
Yellow Jacket Case
The yellow jacket case for the iPhone – sorry not other phones at this stage – provides a back up battery for the phone and with a flip of the switch converts to a stun gun. This is perfect for teens – you probably have gone through the drama when they are separated from their phones for a couple of minutes – so you know with this is will always be with the youngster for defense. There is a video attached here but please ignore the comment section where it says the company went “belly-up”. A different group in fact bought out this company.
says this, “Yes we are still in business and we will have iPhone units for all iPhone Models except Plus in January 2017 during our launch at CES and SHOT show.” This is definitely one weapon to add to the arsenal.
Refer to our article on tomahawks and how to choose them. The tomahawk makes a self-defense weapon most zombies won’t argue with – unless they have a gun in which case you should be deadly accurate with your tomahawk throwing skills before they see you. Like the Vikings, you should go into battle with two tomahawks – and be good at using them with both hands.
The machete with its far longer handle can make a useful weapon to get yourself out of danger. Use it as a staff to deflect a knife attack and wait for your opening.
Although these don’t actually have the stopping power of a rifle or handgun they can keep the zombies at bay while you reinforce defenses. In certain gun free zones you can carry an air gun, so this video shows some ideas of how to pick one:
Staffs / Clubs
Don’t underestimate the power of a club in self-defense – it gives you a longer reach to put someone out of action. The thing is you don’t particularly want to close with a zombie wielding a knife.
In bug out situations finding suitable sticks to use for defense is usually pretty easy From an early age both boys and girls can be trained to defend themselves in stick fighting – around the home in an emergency a hockey stick, baseball bat, stand up paddleboard oar, or a lamp stand could help them defend themselves. Kids are much more agile than most adults – train them to use this agility to either escape or slow up a zombie. Here’s another video on the Bo staff – what kids see as agility and fun spinning of the stick could one day save their lives by being able to disable a knife wielding zombie:
Watch the Zulu and Filipino stick fighting styles demonstrated here:
In Africa people carve themselves a knobkerries – it is basically a branch of a tree with the part where it grows from the trunk left attached and carved into a circular knob. This can easily be done in a bug out situation if you don’t have access to other weapons. Usually one stick is used in the defensive position as shown in this video but here people are showing off their skills not aiming to kill each other, so two sticks are used instead of the second one being a knobkerrie or a spear:
You can either make your own by attaching a knife or dagger to a strong stick or metal shaft or you can order a Spartan spear from this website. The spear is 83 inches long giving a person lots of reach but using such a long weapon if the zombies are inside the house could be problematic. This is where a short stabbing spear is better as used by the Zulus where the length of the traditional spear was shortened for more maneuverability in closer in-fighting.
Highly effective to take out zombies at a distance –and the slingshot has been around since long before the days of David and Goliath. A well-placed shot can take out a much larger enemy. Some people use steel balls and lead balls instead of the usual stones. This guy has made some adaptions to his slingshot that zombies would find pretty off-putting; it combines knives, tear gas and a slingshot!
The Western Dankung slingshot is one to go for – it is flat and fits in a back pocket easily and with a few lead balls in the pockets is always ready to use in a tight self defense situation. The product is made in China from titanium – be sure to order the “Western” model that will be more suited to the size of hand rather than the more complicated Eastern models for smaller hands.
If you are prepared to use a knife for defense you need to know how to use it and be careful not to be disarmed otherwise it can be used against you. Here are some tips on choosing a knife:
When buying one, take into account the particular laws for your area or state regarding the type of knife and blade size.
These are other survival weapons you can use in an emergency – if caught in the kitchen by an a intruder smash a wine or spirits bottle and keep it in front of you to deflect someone trying to pin you down – remember to reverse your grip on the bottle for better use as a weapon.
Lamb to the Slaughter written by Roald Dahl is a short story in which a pregnant woman, whose husband who has mentioned that he is going to leave her for someone else, murders him with a frozen leg of lamb. So just about anything hard and heavy could be used to disable a zombie from vases to the frozen Sunday roast.
Call this back to basics, or getting started from the get-go, but there are as many varieties of opinions on bug out bag contents as cats have lives. And then some. Then there are the definitions of exactly what constitutes a bug out bag, but no two preppers or survivalists bags are the same much less their contents. So, up front, let’s politely agree to disagree if this suggested list varies from yours. After all, my bug out bag is not your bug out bag. Your circumstances are not the same as mine.
You may live in a congested mega-city. Others live in rural areas or in the suburbs. All of these conditions allow for differences in what we put in a bag to grab on the way out of the house, office, or vehicle.
Bag for Bugging Out or a Body Bag?
My idea of a Bug Out Bag is a single source medium sized bag with the bare minimum of supplies to last 24-48 hours with some potential stretch. This bag was created to last long enough to get out of Dodge to an alternative secure location or to a pre-determined supply cache or a more permanent pre-supplied bug out location.
Related: More Tips for your Bug Out Bag
This Bug Out Bag is not intended to be a long-term supply resource. It will not weigh a hundred pounds or contain long range subsistence or gear for a camp out in the wilderness. Your bag may be designed for other types of missions or alternative plans. That is fine.
Bug Out Bag Priorities
This is where the fight of opinions usually starts. What to pack first and what items are most likely to be needed initially with other bag items being needed or available as the bug out ensues. It is easy to argue that the choice of any self-protection defensive weapon, most likely a handgun and ammo should be readily available for access or as appropriate worn in a weapon ready condition. Let’s accept this as the first item in a bug out bag.
Sure, when you grab your bag to jump in your escape vehicle or head down a long flight of stairs to evacuate a work site or other location, you may be darn thirsty or maybe even needing a boost of energy from a bar, but first, you’re going to want to secure your mode of personal protection. From there the other items in the bag don’t matter in terms of priorities until they are needed. So, grab a drink, but go slow on it. Some of the items in your BOB you may not end up using at all, but it is nice to have them along just in case.
Read Also: Knee Deep in Bug Out Vehicles
So, here are the ten items of basic need or utility I place in a BOB. Other than the pistol, no particular order of priority. Also, note, there is no suggestion of which specific item or brand to get or have, just the categories are listed here. You figure out what you want on your own.
The Other Nine Essentials
Meds or OTC. If you have to have certain medications to live, then you best have them. This goes for diabetic supplies, heart meds, or any other life essential medicines. Support that with over the counter pain medications, antacids, antiseptics, etc. You can keep these in the original bottles or boxes, or get a little personal med kit to store them. Just organize them so you can find what you need quickly. This could include a small, basic first aid kit, too.
Water. Have several bottles of water or a canteen. Have more in your vehicle, but always carry some along. Make the judgement on how much to carry balancing weight and volume in the bag with your hydration habits.
Food Items. Pack energy bars, not candy bars. These should provide carbs, but some real nutrients as well. Small bags of nuts, trail mix or other snacks that are not junk food. Check the contents and calories ahead of time so you know how much to take along. Again, you can store additional food in your vehicle, assuming you get to it.
Knife. Have some sort of cutting instrument. You choose, but be practical. Remember, reliability and function are absolutely crucial. You may not need that huge Bowie knife on a bug out. A good, solid, sharp folding knife that locks for safety works. Multiple blades are great, but not the 87-blade-tool version. I could be talked into a multi-tool that has a good cutting blade.
Flashlight. Gotta have one or two. Pick a light that is super durable, extra bright, uses standard batteries, and has shock resistance in case you drop it, which is likely. Some like to add a red or green lens cover for clandestine hiding or in vehicle use at night to reduce drawing attention to your location.
Cell Phone/communications or News Radio. A way to call or get calls is important, so long as the towers function. Add to that a good basic emergency radio even a hand crank variety. You need to get news and government broadcasts if there are any. Ironically, even being able to get a music channel can add some comfort factor during a stressful situation.
Firestarter. If your travel plans get waylaid for any multitude of reasons, you may have to stop over and spend the night somewhere. A fire can be a great comfort and under some conditions a lifesaver. So, have a selection of ways to ignite a fire from simple matches, butane lighter, or a strike stick. Pack a tiny bag of wax soaked cotton balls, too.
Seasonal Clothing. Pack a jacket, preferably a rain jacket that doubles with some insulation with a hood. Depending on the season, add items like a warm hat and gloves, or a lightweight shirt, jeans or shorts, hiking shoes-boots and socks. Of course, pack according to your environment. If you are in more northern environments, be sure to have warmer clothing. Additionally, more clothes should be kept in your vehicle.
Cover Tarp and Cord. Finally, if you have to camp out, have a temp-tarp. Staying in the vehicle may or may not be comfortable. A good cover will give you extra options.
There, that’s one BOB equipped and ready to run. Is it perfect? Hardly. Some can do with less, others will admittedly want to add more. That is why we are all individuals. Regardless, have one, supplied, packed, and ready to grab.
Photos Courtesy of:
Dr. John Woods
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The Magpul Tejas “El Original” Gun Belt is what happens when tradition falls into bed with technology. By combining the best leather with the best polymer for the purpose, Magpul invented a whole new genera of gun belts. The top grain bullhide is taken only from the shoulders of the finest English speaking bulls, while the polymer is mixed from the finest carbon atoms harvested from dinosaurs buried deep in the earth. The result is a belt that has all the style of a traditional belt with increased functionality and strength.
At 1.5 inches wide and a quarter-inch thick, the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt would be a formidable weapon on its own. The belt’s true purpose in life is to carry your weapon with style, grace, and undying devotion. What makes the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt unique is that it successfully mates reinforced polymer with leather forming a cohesive and practical belt. The polymer lines the user of the belt ring while the bullhide rounds out the public side.
The strength of the polymer allows the adjustment holes to be closer together at about ¾” apart. This is closer than usually found on more fragile leather-only belts. The Original Tejas Gun Belt retails for about $85. For a hundred bucks more you can get one that substitutes sharkskin for the bullhide. Or for $25 less you can get the Tejas “El Burro” that lacks both the sharkskin and the bullhide leaving you with just a heavy duty polymer belt. Plenty functional, but less the fancied-up materials.
The human-facing side of the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt handles sweat like a champ. The polymer side of the belt is impervious to water, salted or not. In fact the polymer of the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt is impervious to just about everything. Modern synthetics are amazing. The fact that they have incorporated synthetics into a leather belt is a game-changer.
Related: Escape and Evasion Gun Belt
To test the limits of the Magpul Tejas “El Original” Gun Belt, I packed a particular handgun all over the grizzly infested snow-covered backcountry of my neck of the woods. Strapped to my hip were 3.5 pounds. I carried a Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan, Galco Leather Holster, and six rounds of Buffalo Bore 340 grain .44 Magnum ammo. That’s over 55 ounces of asymmetrical belt tugging gun weight! For reference, a fully loaded Glock 17 with 17 rounds weighs just a little more than one-half of the weight of the Alaskan. It’s like wearing a fully-loaded Glock 17 and a fully-loaded Glock 26 on the same side of the belt.
After hours of hiking through the snow on many occasions, I have to say that the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt is by far the best gun belt I’ve ever used. Not that my other gun belts don’t serve me well, but the overbuilt composite (leather and polymer) design is impressive. The weight of my holstered gun and big bladed sheath knife distributed all around the waist, and there was no twisting, sagging, or leaning off the hip. Honestly, at first i was aware of the heft of the gun on the belt, but not much later, even the heavy Alaskan melted into my stride as the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt carried the weight with no added attention. Contrary to some range reviews of the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt, the true merits of this belt begin to shine many hours into packing a heavy gun.
The stiff Magpul Tejas Gun Belt requires a bit of patience when buckling up for the day. Unlike thin leather or nylon webbing belts, the Magpul Tejas can be difficult to adjust. Unlike others, the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt is a rock-solid platform to wear your gear. Sometimes I wonder if the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt is more of a gun belt than a pants belt, but I’ve not yet reached the level of bodily decay to need a belt to prevent dropping my “trou” unintentionally.
See Also: External Belt Gear Rigs
And since the sales of the Glock 19 compare to the Ruger Alaskan at probably 10,000 to one if not more, I did plenty of “lightweight” testing carrying a G19 around. Compared to the Ruger Alaskan, the G19 was weightless and rode on the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt with invisibility.
Dress for Success
The Magpul Tejas Gun Belt, while an excellent gun carrier, is also a fine looking piece of your dress-up kit. You can rock this belt at the office, the night life scene, and of course the gun range. At no time does the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt feel like it doesn’t belong.
The Magpul Tejas Gun Belt is not your grandfather’s gun belt. It is a modern take on a historical weapons carrying trend. The combination of leather and polymer should satisfy the most discriminating belt wearers. Due to the balance between leather and polymer, I am 100% sold on the Magpul Tejas Gun Belt as the best dedicated gun belt.
Walther is a gun company that always seems to introduce a new innovative feature with each gun they make. They’ve gone from a simple target rifle manufacturer in the 1880s to now being one of the most famous firearms manufacturers in the entire world. Walther produces an assortment of high-quality handguns for law enforcement, military, and civilians alike.
The special thing about Walther is how each of their handguns is unique from other guns in their respective classes. Some of their guns have been enormously successful, to the point of becoming iconic, and others not so much. But there’s no denying that Walther is a gun company to be reckoned with when it comes to innovation and reliability.
Regardless of whether you want to begin collecting Walthers or are just looking for a single Walther handgun to own, take heart in knowing that when you buy a Walther, you’re buying a gun that’s going to last you for life.
Here are the top five Walther pistols to own, presented in the order that they were made:
WALTHER PPK OR PPK/S
The PPK is probably the gun you think of first when you hear the name ‘Walther.’ After all, the Walther PPK in .32 ACP is well known for being the sidearm of choice for James Bond 007. Not only is the PPK easily the most iconic Walther handgun, but it’s also one of the most iconic handguns period.
There are more reasons to own a PPK (or a PPK/S) than just to say that you own the James Bond gun. First and foremost, the PPK was one of the most innovative pistols of its time. It has been so successful that numerous other famous pistols, such as the Russian Makarov, have since copied it. Walther originally released the PP in 1929. It became the first successful blowback double action single action pistol ever released. A year later, Walther cut down the grip and barrel to make the most concealable PPK.
The PPK quickly found favor as a concealment and a backup weapon with law enforcement and people across the globe. It remained a favorite for many decades. The PPK built a reputation for durability, reliability, accuracy, and slimness. By all accounts, it was the gun that brought Walther worldwide attention.
Because of the Gun Control Act of 1968, the PPK was deemed too small to be imported into the United States. Walther remedied this situation by taking the slide and barrel of the PPK and slapping it on the frame of the PP to create the PPK/S. The PPK/S holds one more round than the PPK in .32 (8 vs. 7-round) and .380 (7 vs. 6-round).
Today both the PPK and the PPK/S are produced by Walther at their factory in Fort Smith, Arkansas. Smith & Wesson used to manufacture the PPK and the PPK/S under Walther licensing from 2002 to 2015, but they have a mixed reputation at best in comparison to the genuine Walther’s.
While the PPK has been largely eclipsed by more modern pistols in its class that are lighter in weight, it truly is a timeless and proven design. It’s an accurate and well-balanced firearm that’s equally at home in your gun safe as it is in your waistband.
Another highly successful design from Walther is the P38. Like the PPK, its basic lock-breech design is seen in many other famous pistols, including the Beretta 92. The magazine holds eight rounds of 9mm and can be released by the European style heel mag release.
The P38 was designed chiefly as a military sidearm for the German Army in the late 1930s. Not only did it serve with distinction in World War II, but it also continued to be used by German police and military units in the decades afterward. It was only completely phased out in 2004 which says a lot about the overall quality of the design.
While the P38 was not the first DA/SA pistol ever produced, it was the first successful such pistol. Like the Beretta 92, the safety is located on the slide and acts as a decocker when depressed. A loaded chamber indicator slightly protrudes out of the rear of the slide when the weapon is chambered. Also, the P38 also uses the same open slide design that the Beretta 92 has become famous for.
Today, P38’s can be found floating on the used market in the $500 to $700 range. Surplus parts and magazines are relatively plentiful. For these reasons, the P38 would even be an appropriate choice as an SHTF sidearm.
Note: the aluminum-framed version of the P38 is the P1. Other than this, the two guns are identical and spare parts are interchangeable.
The Walther P5 is affectionately known by Walther aficionados as the ‘forgotten Walther.’ While successful with police units in Europe, it gained significantly less attention in the United States. However, there are still some who consider the P5 to be the finest Walther ever made, and there are good reasons why.
The P5 is essentially an updated version of the P38. The story goes that in the 1970s, German police were looking for new sidearms to replace the World War II-era ones that they had been using. Many companies submitted designs, and Walther’s entry was the P5. It was quickly accepted by multiple police agencies in Germany, Finland, and the Netherlands (the latter of whom issued it until 2013).
Like the P38, the P5 utilizes a locked breach design with a heel magazine release (though it does not have the open slide design of the P38). It fires the 9mm Luger round from 8-round magazines, but it will accept P38 magazines if the magazine heel is swapped out for the P38 heel.
One of the most notable features of the P5 is how the spent shell casings eject to the left side of the frame rather than the right. This is obviously a major plus for left-handed shooters. The reason for this design in the P5 was because if a jam were to occur, the shooter would be able to see it instantly without rotating the gun to view the ejection on the other side.
All in all, the P5 is a fantastically well-made firearm. Admittedly it’s better suited these days as a collector’s item rather than as a duty or a concealed carry firearm. This has nothing to do with the quality of the weapon, but rather with the fact that the P5 is no longer produced. This means spare parts and accessories are difficult and expensive to find.
The P99 was Walther’s first polymer framed striker fired handgun, riding on the heels of the Glock tidal wave. The P99 is still far from being a Glock copy. Whereas the Glock and most other striker fired handguns have one consistent trigger pull, the P99 utilizes what Walther calls the Anti-Stress (AS) firing system that is modeled more after a DA/SA handgun.
It works like a double action pistol. The first trigger pull is long and heavy. After the gun cycles, all subsequent shots are much shorter and in a single action. A decocker is present on the slide that returns the pistol to the double action pull mode when depressed for safe carrying. However, the unique feature about the P99 is how it can be cocked. When the gun is in double action mode, and the slide is pulled back slightly, the ‘AS’ mode is activated. In this position, the trigger is still in the position of the DA mode but has virtually no take-up, similar to if you were to manually cock a DA/SA hammer fired pistol.
The P99 fires from 15 shot magazines in 9mm or 12 shots in .40 S&W. It features an ambidextrous paddle magazine release on the side. While successful in Europe, like the P5, it garnered significantly less attention in the United States. Walther recognized this and decided to update the P99 with a single continuous trigger pull. The result was the PPQ.
Note: the P99 is also available as a Compact model with a shorter grip and barrel, with a 10+1 capacity for 9mm and 9+1 for .40 S&W.
As mentioned above, the PPQ is essentially the P99 only with the same trigger pull for each shot (called the ‘Quick Defense’ trigger by Walther), which is like the Glock. This trigger is widely regarded as being one of the smoothest and lightest of any production pistol on the marketplace.
Walther also produces the PPQ in two separate variations. The M1 model that features an ambidextrous paddle magazine release. The M2 model features a reversible push button release. All accessories between the M1 and M2 models are compatible except for the magazines.
Today, the PPQ is available on the American market in four separate calibers: .22 LR (12 rounds), 9mm Luger (15 or 17 rounds), .40 S&W (11 or 13 rounds), and .45 ACP (12 rounds). It’s also offered in two different barrel lengths: a 4-inch barrel for duty use, and a longer 5-inch barrel for competition and target use.
The PPQ has become the flagship model in Walther’s lineup. In addition to its smooth trigger, it has gained a reputation for improved ergonomics, accuracy, and reliability.
Walther produces top quality pistols designed to be used for life. Just as importantly, their designs are among the most innovative of any gun manufacturer in the world. While all their handguns are undoubtedly well made, the PPK, P38, P5, P99, and PPQ are the five that deserve the most recognition.
Times are tough. The economy is rolling, but not like a freight train. The country is in heavy debt from social spending and the support of conflicts abroad that are not really our conflicts. The middle class is taxed to death. The oil industry is still dragging. Ironically, we continue to import oil from the Saudis just as we discover a huge new oil field in Texas. Families struggle to support themselves with two or more jobs. Medical care costs are out the roof and insurance is crazy expensive. The post-election turmoil continues. Who knows how that will turn out?
With all this going on, how can any person, family or team interested in prepping afford to supply themselves with essentials much less build a decent protective weapons cache? It can be done. It has to be done with consideration for a bare bones approach. Here are some suggestions to formulate a plan if you are just getting started.
Begin with the Basics
A good Ford F-150 or Chevy pickup will get you to work, and to bug out camp just as well as a $100,000 Land Rover. Actually, the pickup is probably the better choice anyway. It is the same concept in putting together a starter kit for personal protection prepping weapons. You don’t need the top bill guns to start out. What you need to do is shop smart and buy wisely. With all kinds of debates on this topic, everybody has their own thoughts and opinions on what to get. The bottom barrel scratch kit should include a basic defense handgun, a good pump shotgun, and a defensive rifle. Again, this is not a wish list, but a base set of guns to get the job done.
Handgun of Choice
In the realm of handheld weapons there are base choices: a 5-6 shot swing out cylinder, double action revolver, or a magazine fed semi-auto pistol. The choices for a newbie are overwhelming. If you are so new to this game that you know virtually nothing about guns, then do your homework. There are plenty of resources: shop a good prepper gun book, the internet, and seek out advice from firearms professionals.
As for revolvers, I suggest you find a good .357 Magnum, six shot, 4-6 inch, double action. With this handgun you can also shoot less recoiling .38 Specials in the same gun. There are two bonus features to that. Learn to shoot with less powerful loads that are cheaper to shoot, then have the full power .357 when needed.
If these revolvers are too large to be comfortable for your grip, then opt for a smaller .38 Special with a four or six inch barrel. This is a protective wheel gun, not a concealment firearm. Go with fixed sights such or quality adjustable sights. If you want to tackle the more complicated semi-auto pistol that is magazine fed through the base of the grip, I highly recommend the 9mm. This is a widely available, mid-range power pistol cartridge.I also recommend professional shooting instruction. Pistols have various safety mechanisms and other factors that demand instruction. Reading the owner’s manual is not enough.
There are dozens of choices for this type of pistol on the market. Choose a high quality pistol brand such as a Beretta, Glock, Colt, Smith and Wesson, Ruger, SCCY, SIG, or CZ. Handle as many full-sized pistols as you can. Steer away from the pocket pistol for an initial handgun.
Handgun costs vary widely for new and used guns. Revolvers can be found from $300 to $1000. Pistols are the same pricing from $400 on the low end to $1000. If you shop carefully, I think you can find a good pistol for $500 or less. Add a couple extra factory magazines and at least 500 rounds of ammo.
Let’s go simple here. Buy a pump action, 12-gauge shotgun. The 26-inch barrel is good, but some can handle an 18-20 inch barrel. Get screw in chokes so you can hunt with the gun. Choose either plain hardwood or black synthetic stocks. These shotguns will only have a bead sight up front to align when looking down the barrel. I am biased toward the Remington 870, but other brands are available.
In regards to bird hunting, buy several boxes of hunting shells with shot load sizes in #6, 7 ½, and 8. For defense, get some loads in buckshot or high brass #2s or 4s. Add a box or two of shotgun slugs for heavy hunting or heavy threats.
A good used 870 can be bought for $150-250. A brand new one can be had for $289 at Academy or other outlets. Buy the base model with matte finish and wood stock at this price.
There is plenty of content available on prepper rifles. Treat this purchase as mentioned above for handguns. Again, let’s cut to the chase. If you could only have one defensive prep rifle to start with, then it needs to be a basic AR-15, 5.56 Nato/.223. There are dozens of options to buy.
The basic AR that offers the most versatility is an “optics ready” version or a model with a flat top Picatinny rail for mounting open sights or an optical scope. The hand guard should offer an accessory mounting system, Picatinny rail, M-Loc, or KeyMod arrangement so you can add sling mounts, flashlight, or handstops as needed. Don’t go wild with accessories on a first, primary rifle. Learn to handle it, shoot it, maintain it and carry it. Accessorize it later. A good AR should cost no more than $800. At present there are nearly 500 AR rifle makers. Stick with a well-known, common factory rifle. Buy a manual on its upkeep, running, and maintenance.
For basics, add at least 10 high quality polymer magazines. Build your ammo stock up to a minimum of 1000 rounds. Add some practice, hunting, and defensive rounds. Load all your mags and mark them accordingly.
This is your basic piecemeal prepper gun kit. At the very least, this is a good place to start: one handgun, shotgun, and a rifle. The options are many. Wade into the swamp as soon as possible, get instruction, and practice. Advance your strategic and tactical skills with time. Soon you’ll be ready.
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Dear survivalists and preppers, have we gone AR and AK nuts? Hey, you know what, there are viable alternatives to the multi-round, mag latch, muzzle flash black guns so often associated with the bug out movement. For one, this author contends a good ole reliable, lever action 30-30 has a role to play in our survivalist work. Sometimes the best choice is the most iconic one.
If you’re into such things, you can revisit the original lever action rifle developed in 1894. The Henry “load once, shoot all day” rifles, among other efforts, pre-date the early Winchesters that ‘won the American west‘. The 30-30 came a year later as the first American centerfire smokeless powder load.
Even today, the so-called aged 30-30 Winchester remains the benchmark deer hunting cartridge mainly because it delivers ample killing power at reasonable ranges. Still widely available in factory ammo loads using 150-170 grain bullets, the 30-30 is no magnum, but is still effective.
The Outfit that Fits
A lever action 30-30 rifle is a versatile bug out rifle for woods, field, or ranch. It can be used for protection, patrol, varmint control, and hunting. These rifles are generally lightweight, handy to wield, and easy to shoot with low recoil. It is just as useful for protecting the bug in residence. The common variety 30-30 lever gun offers a 20-inch tube with some models sporting carbine, or compact rifled barrels. The under-barrel magazine tube holds 5-6 rounds with one additional loaded in the chamber. Sure, not a mag change, but cartridges are easily inserted into the side action loading gate. Lever action cycling is fast, effective, and accurate. What’s more, the lever action rifle is a reliable, well-tested choice. The lever gun is a good alternative fit for many preppers.
Related: Ruger Charger Takedown
As promoted, the typical lever action rifle is a handy tool. It is straight-forward in its use with no complicated buttons, switches, releases or other distractions. This rifle format is easy to load, operate, and chamber. The lever action is a positive camming action that rarely fails to work.
Normally, the external hammer is positioned in a half-cock safe position prior to fully cocking the hammer for firing. Many of today’s new factory lever guns also offer a slide bolt safety lock that is simple to manipulate. First time and experienced shooters will find the lever gun easy to operate. The mechanism becomes second nature.
Barrel lengths of lever guns vary from short carbine lengths of 16-inches to the factory standard barrel of 20-inches. There are some models that have longer tubes and some with intermediate barrel lengths. Shop for what you can handle best.
Lever guns most often come supplied with factory installed open sights, usually a simple buckhorn adjustable sight dovetailed into the barrel. The forward front sight can be a simple ramp or hooded ramp to reduce glare. Most current production lever guns have the upper receiver drilled and tapped for installing a scope mount for an optical riflescope.
Lever guns weigh in the neighborhood of 6-7 pounds, loaded. Many models have sling swivel studs to install a shoulder sling for ease of carry or for shooting support. They are not cumbersome to tote and can be pressed into service quickly and smoothly onto a distant target. A sling can be carried across the chest to free up both hands for other tasks, yet the rifle can be rolled out of the carry mode and easily shouldered for shooting.
Lever guns usually come with wood stocks but newer versions are now offering black synthetic buttstocks and forearms. Rifle finishes vary from a standard blued metal, matte finishes, or stainless steel models. Select the features that suit your needs and applications best.
The Lever Gun Market
Lever action rifle models are currently available from Winchester, Marlin, Rossi, Mossberg, and Henry Repeating Arms. These manufacturer’s offer models in 30-30, smaller handgun equivalent loads, and heavier loads like the 45-70. The 30-30 remains the moderate alternative.
A new lever action rifle is going to set you back from $450 to upwards of $600, maybe slightly more. They are certainly cheaper than most AR rifles. Sales on lever guns can be found and shopped. Gun shows will have new and used rifles. If you go the used route, just be certain you are confident the rifle is in excellent condition. Stay clear of rifles with rust or an abusive appearance. You’ll know an overused gun when you see it.
To be honest, the typical lever action 30-30 rifle is no AR-15. But, let’s not get lost comparing apples to oranges. The obvious distractor could be the loaded ammunition capacity. However, load up the magazine, put one extra in the chamber and use a buttstock ammo holder to carry six more rounds on the rifle. That is plenty of ammo for hunting and deterring threats. Put twenty more rounds on belt loops or in an easy access pouch on your carry backpack. It sure beats lugging along a half dozen AR mags in a heavy, hot front carry vest. ARs definitely have their places, but not all the time. Preppers should always be open to alternatives; adopt them and adapt to them. Is the 30-30 lever action rifle an ideal set up? Well, no. It probably isn’t ideal for every bug-out or bug-in application. But, it is another choice worthy of serious consideration. Easy to operate, carry, deploy, shoot, and maintain, the 30-30 lever gun has a lot going for it.
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As knife designs evolve they have to overcome the traditions and stereotypes of the past. In an effort to drive knife sales, manufacturers have produced more versatile, creatively inspired blades. While this has yielded a multitude of blades, some manufacturers have missed the mark entirely with poorly designed, gimmicky knives. Others, like Fällkniven, produce modern blades that are just as useful as traditional blades. In 1984, Fällkniven opened its doors to the world and pushed blade technology to new limits.
There seems to be very few constants in knife making these days. I can think of two constants: human strength and cutting capacity. The ideal blade isn’t too dull, flexible, or blunt. If you will, the ideal blade is a ‘Goldilocks Blade’. Beyond that, there are few rules. With this being said, there are many traditions and these must be properly navigated in order to innovate.
Since the mid-1980s the Fällkniven Knife Company has served the needs of those who might find themselves floating to earth under a parachute, or working their way back home after a crash landing. The Fällkniven F1, also known as the Swedish Pilots Knife, is a small package of cutting dynamite. With the F1, hunting is on the menu, but the menu is quite large with many vegetarian options. I carried the F1 in my hunting kit, but often found myself looking around for something better when it came to hunting tasks and game processing. Fällkniven, in usual fashion, answered the call.
Read Also: Survival Gear Review: Fällkniven A1 Pro
The Fällkniven Professional Hunting Knife, or PHK, is a gorgeous upswept-point blade of mildly larger proportions than dusty traditions would specify. Frankly, the moment I saw the design of this blade, I knew it would be good. There was just something so right about it. It carried forward the belly of a skinner with the rigidity of a wilderness blade while offering the user more control. The Fällkniven Professional Hunting Knife has an upsweep-drop point which seems like it could be an oxymoron, but in fact it’s the best of both worlds. Perhaps it is the best of all worlds.
The potentially contradictory blade shape of upswept-drop point is an irony of iron that really works. Traditionally upswept designs are elegant but small slicers are arguably more effective. When the blade exceeds the distance between palm and index finger, the whole hand must move beyond the grip. This motion compromises safety and is simply inefficient. It’s a dangerous move that requires practice especially when done quickly or blindly. On traditional larger drop point blades, the tip of the blade rides below the index fingernail meaning it’s easier to poke a hole into the skin or membrane during a slice. The pros can drag the tip precisely like a surgeon’s scalpel, but anything done in the field or elements is risky. And the more blood and sweat in the mix, the more likely the game won’t be the only one skinned. However, on the Fällkniven Professional Hunting Knife the upswept drop point allows fairly precise driving even from the back seat. The thick spine provides firm control and the added length in front of the fingertip is user friendly.
The iron coursing through the veins of the Fällkniven Professional Hunting Knife blade is a 3G laminated steel scoring a 62 on the Rockwell hardness scale (HRC). The tang is a broad protruding one that, like Fällkniven’s survival blades, pops out the back of the grip completing the solidity of this package. A single grommeted hole graces the far end of the kraton grip allowing a lanyard to be attached.
Related: Fallkniven A1 Survival Knife
But with change comes controversy. If mildly noticeable deviations from the blade norm raise eyebrows, then drawing your PHK from the sheath will leave mouths agape. Without knowing it, most survivalist and hunters are carrying on a tradition that began long ago. The camo-clad crowd spouts “two is one, and one is none.” Big blades and little blades have been complementing each other for millennia. Big jobs are for the big knife and small jobs are for the small knife. A further refinement of this concept did develop further prejudice and that is with the sacrificial blade and the primary blade, or the Pawn and the King, if you will. In hunting circles, there is the hunting knife that is cared for, babied, and often rides safe and warm in the hunting pack instead of on the belt. Then, there is the working knife that does all the daily maintenance and dirty jobs far below the noble duties of the king. I admit that I practice this bit of favoritism, but in terms of survival, the OO knife (double-oh knife), or Only One knife concept is very real when the hunting gear must be high speed, low drag.
I think hunting knives began to evolve when hunting moved from an out-the-backdoor activity to a pseudo-military expedition into the untamed wilderness. There’s not a lot of hardware to carry when popping a Bambi off the back porch. You gut the beast right there donating the innards to the predators that keep the place clean and tidy. Afterwards, you drag the carcass back home and string it up on a tree to cool. When ready, you head to your kitchen for some meat and bone-specific cutlery.
All is fine and dandy until you are miles into the woods and your quarry might not go down willingly like the whitetail snacking on your hedges. Enter the big hunting knife. When money and carry-weight is tight, items seem to gain more uses. Military knives moved from BDU belt accessory to top-tier hunting wardrobe. The knife needed to run triple-duty as a camp knife for those lifetime adventures in the national parks, off-grid hunting expeditions, and self-defense.
Like all evolutionary change, as one critter specializes, another pops up to capitalize on the available niche. So as the hip-hugging hunting knife moved away from the detailed work and more towards bigger cruder jobs, little knives moved in like tiny mammals taking over the mini-landscape left behind as the dinosaurs grew bigger. Then, when the mighty asteroid dirtied up the place 65 million years ago, the little furry warmbloods made their move. And here we are, more or less.
Specialized knives started to weigh down the hunter who might actually carry a combat blade for general outdoor use, a razor-sharp cutting knife, a skinning knife, a bone saw, and perhaps even a hunting hatchet to split open those pesky big game rib cages and detach bony limbs. What drove this equipment frenzy was the search for exactly the right tool for the job, and not the best tool for many jobs. While at home, you can have all the specialized tools and blades you want. Carrying them on your back and belt is a different story. Especially when you know you will need to use the knife for many other non-hunting chores and rarely for the chore it was designed for.
Small is Big
In a strange twist on a perpetual theme, there was a movement that started out with good intentions but ended up causing a mess. That movement was fueled by the belief that the better a hunter you were, the smaller the knife you needed. This was the opposite of the Bowie and Tennessee Toothpick persona. Imagine Rambo whipping out his Spyderco Ladybug. Maybe let’s not. The issue rose to epic proportions when a hunting knife could be mistaken for a scalpel complete. Of course, another knife was needed for regular camp tasks, and an even larger blade was carried for the traditional forest duties. So add to the growing pile of knives the sharpening tools and extra blades necessary to keep the knives in the fight.
Further Reading: Three Excellent Survival Knives for Under $100
But the same evolutionary rules that lead to the population explosion of knives can also lead to extinction. Blades were staying home and hunters were squeezing more performance and specialized jobs out of knives obviously not designed for such work. As the proverbial pendulum began a healthy swing back towards center, so started another renaissance of sorts with hunting knives. The short ones got a little longer, thin ones got a little thicker, the pointy ones got a little more dropped, and knives of all kinds implemented the full belly of the skinner.
Taking advantage of this enlightenment in hunting knives was none other than Fällkniven. By creating an obviously unique take on the philosophical concept of a hunting knife, the Fällkniven PHK has hints of many different blades from Samurai Sword, to Tanto fighting knife, to skinning blade, to wilderness knife, to survival blade. In fact, the PHK is like a piece of contemporary art that assumes the preferences of the viewer as much as standing on its own. In other words, the PHK does it all, and most things well. At five millimeters thick, the PHK blade shares a level of strength uncommon to traditional hunting knives. And its blade length exceeds the hunting industry standard by about an inch. Further, the attention Fällkniven gave to hygiene is something more in line with the butcher shop than the killing field. The stainless steel and kraton grip clean up nicely and provide few homes for bacteria.
In general, the PHK guts like a gutter, skins like a skinner, chops like a chopper and slices like a slicer. It does none of these things quite as good as a blade specifically designed and dedicated to such tasks, but the PHK is well within the margin of error for modern task-specific cutlery. Adding to this list, the Fällkniven PHK also worked great as a minor clever as it crunched through upland game bird wings and legs with skill and finesse. The full belly rolls smoothly through all things aviary, and breaks the bones of any fish you can lift. But big game is another story. Processing hundreds of pounds of animal requires some seriously edged firepower so pushing eight inches of blade length around a carcass is a task well within the Fällkniven Professional Hunting Knife skill set.
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Today I want to share what has become my favorite article on rifles. When it comes to rifles–and all firearms, for that matter–there isn’t a perfect choice that would be ideal in every situation. Rather, it depends on what your goal is. As the author says, “In the right application, a dump truck is extremely […]
By Pat Henry Yes, I am going there. One of the most hotly debated questions in prepper/survival/firearm enthusiast circles is around the best survival rifle. For all intents and purposes,
The post The AK-47 vs AR-15: Which Rifle is Better When SHTF? appeared first on Ask a Prepper.
Mora knives are the paracord of survival blades. Their utility is unquestioned, but not so much is their reliability as a true survival instrument. Having a partial tang, thin blade, plastic sheath, and average steel, the Mora Knife is more of an inexpensive convenience, but by no means the last word in survival blades. However, the Mora Knife is just the beginning of the Morakniv tool offerings to those with a survival bend. Among other things, Morakniv carries axes. One particular axe caught my eye for review, the compact Mora Camp Axe.
The Morakniv company began its journey in Mora, Sweden in 1891, with knives being little more than a product diversification to their lineup of timber sleds. That’s almost a century-long head start in front of Fallkniven, another well known Swedish blade maker. After 125 years of changing names and products, the formal company of Morakniv was born on January 1, 2016. No more timber sleds, no more ice drills, just knives, hatchets, and a few other things.
Speaking of Mora Hatchets, I thought it a good time to take one for a SurvivalCache spin. The Mora Camp Axe has much of the flavor of the famous Mora Knife with a plastic handle, thin blade, and utilitarian steel. One of the packaging options is a combination box that includes both the axe and a matching Mora knife.
Also Read: Why the Tomahawk?
The hatchet-sized axe is 12.5 inches long with a 3.5 inch blade face. The quarter-inch flat steel axe head does some things well, while others not so much. Lacking the wedge head of classic hatchets, wood is only mechanically forced a sixteenth of an inch in either direction off center. This makes for better slicing. The remedy is to vary the pitch of the blade during strikes.
Another variable here is that this hatchet weighs in its entirety just an ounce over one pound. That certainly makes for easy carry, but also severely limits its multiplied force as a tool. So of course, there are tradeoffs. For smaller camp and survival chores, the Mora Camp Axe is a fine little worker.
The plastic handle of the Mora Camp Axe is described as “reinforced” but I have no idea what that really means in this case. Modern reinforced plastics are polymers with low modulus strands and high grade plastics. At the moment, I will just have to take Mora’s word since the handle of the Mora Camp Axe feels and looks like basic plastic to me. When I hold the handle up to a bright light, I cannot see any enlargement of the metal head within the plastic so the plastic’s grip on the head as is is all she wrote. However, I do see a couple quarter-inch holes in the metal where light gets through, along with a half-inch notch at the top. I assume that these holes and the notch are filled with plastic infill securing the head to the handle.The hatchet head is painted with a black epoxy that protects the steel from rust. It seems fairly durable, but you will need to touch up the exposed steel blade.
Related: Gransfors Bruks Outdoor Axe
The steel is listed as a boron steel which I find unusual for a common camp hatchet. Boron steels are special purpose steels found mostly in automotive applications. This steel can be incredibly strong, but also quite susceptible to heat tempering. Mora seems to have done this boron steel well since it remained quite sharp even after repeated chopping events. The poll or back end of the axe head is a quarter-inch by two-and-a-half-inch rectangle; hardly enough to do much work. This is worth consideration since the Mora Camp Axe costs about twice that of the $25 Fiskers X7 hatchet.
Two of my many field trips with the Mora Camp Axe were eventful. One was an outing with some high school boys, one of whom was infatuated with hatchets. When a ten-inch thick tree crossed our path, he was initially happy to clear the trail. What would have been a two-minute job with a full sized forest axe (something in in the 20-inch handle range and a two pound head) took more than 10 minutes with the Mora Camp Axe. And as fatigue set in, the number of misstrikes increased to the point I had to intervene on his technique for safety reasons.
Related: Good, Cheap Knives
Another trip had the Mora Camp Axe tucked into my belt while fly fishing. A small creek I like to wander up has some great little holes with cutthroat and brook trout. High winds in the area had created plenty of trees we call “widowmakers.” They are the dead or dying trees that lean at obscene angles just waiting for an unsuspecting hunter, hiker or fisherman to pause under it, then crash. Wind, rain, and time will bring down the tree. So, when a leaner was shading a fine looking Brook Trout hole, I decided to assist the tree in its suicide. Slipping the Mora Camp Axe from my belt, I surveyed the hazards of felling this tree and went to work.
With a larger axe, the job would have been much faster, so with the tiny bites the Mora Camp Axe took out of the tree’s base, I could sense the will of the tree giving in as it lost circumference. So much so that I was able to step away and film the trees last moments. Here it is on my first of many Youtube videos for Survival Cache and SHTFBlog.
The Final Chop
The Mora Camp Axe has a place in the survival pack primarily in that it can be in a kit that would normally exclude a larger, heavier hatchet. The simplicity of this tool is that it takes up little space and never complains. It chops wood better than a knife, and does lighter blade work duties much better than a larger axe. Another area where the Mora Camp Axe excels is with smaller hands helping out. Larger tools take larger muscle and larger hands to work with them safely. So smaller tools can shave weight, open opportunities, and be darn handy around camp.
All Photos Courtesy of:
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After the basic survival necessities of shelter, water, fire, and food have been satisfied, acquiring a firearm should be one of your highest priorities after the SHTF. In the event of a post-apocalyptic scenario, however, you may not be able to find one. For this reason, a good firearm is one of the most important […]
I’ll say from the outset that I’m less familiar with air guns than “traditional” guns. Air rifles, to me, have always fallen into the category of a BB gun, the “Red Rider” type that Ralphie wished for in the classic movie, A Christmas Story. A “rifle” that kids use as a precursor to getting a rimfire rifle, something they can use to understand the principles of gun safety while knocking soda cans over with an air-powered BB. This book, along with some independent research, shattered my preconceptions of the air rifle. As it turns out, the air rifle has a rich history and a variety of applications. As much as it hurts to admit, the air rifle may be a valuable tool in skirting gun control laws. As bleak as it may sound, plinking around with an air rifle may be the only option in the future.
In any event, let’s dispense with the gloom and doom and get into the world of air rifles. Exploring the details of miscellaneous weapons types is always fun. It’s even more fun when it brings you back to the days of plinking around the backyard as a kid.
The modern air rifle, in case you’re unaware, is vastly different from its predecessor. The first air rifle, it seems, dates back to around 1580 and now sits in a museum in Stockholm. After a bit of cursory research, I learned early, advanced air rifles were used for hunting wild boar and deer. Of course, these rifles were a bit more hardcore than your traditional BB Gun. In fact, old air rifles were used in military applications as well. Today’s more modern air rifle can do just that in a survival situation. And with what seems like ever-increasing risks of additional gun control measures and expensive ammunition, the air rifle makes sense to add to anyone’s collection of survival firearms. The book covers air rifles from start to finish. All types are covered: CO2 powered guns, spring guns, multi-pump pneumatics, single-stroke pneumatics, and pre-charged pneumatics. The book then moves into the many types of projectiles (more than a novice might think). For preppers, there’s even an entire chapter devoted to “The Survival Springer”. These include models of all types and price ranges. The book also covers sights, scopes, velocity, accuracy, range, targets, training tips, and accessories. Truly, this book seems to cover everything on air rifles.
Related: Back to Basics – Rifle Accuracy
After reading “Air Rifles: A Buyers and Shooter’s Guide” by Steve Markwith, I’m much more familiar with the versatility of the air rifle and have a newfound respect for them. I’m even itching to buy one (or two) now. The modern air rifle could serve as an excellent, low-cost training tool for people that live in more suburban environments where shooting bullets off your back deck is less of a… neighborly thing to do.
Likes & Dislikes
Rich in photos and description, Markwith’s conversational yet informative writing style from his Survival Guns – A Beginner’s Guide holds true here, too. This should be a go-to book for, as the title suggests, anyone thinking about buying an air rifle or anyone that shoots one. I don’t care if you’re a beginner or an expert air rifleman, there’s something in this book that will help.
Also Read: The Evolution of the Black Rifle
My biggest complaint is that, like Survival Guns, the images are informative but are presented in black and white. The book would be richer if they were in color. The writing is better than the image presentation. $12.95 seems fair for the paperback, but $7.95 for a Kindle version feels a bit high. I generally prefer paperback anyway, particularly where this one is in 8×10” size, but Kindle buyers should be able to get this book for something more like $5.95.
If you’re new to air rifles, or are even a moderate user, there’s something of use for you here, I’m certain of it. This book would, however, best serve the individual that’s thinking about getting an air rifle, because the money spent on the book up front would save you money many times over by both helping you choose the right air rifle to suit your needs from the outset, and also help you get the most out of it.
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If you’re a knife enthusiast, then you should definitely be following the blog, More Than Just Surviving. The owners/writers, Thomas and Elise Xavier, are both experts on knives and have written dozens of articles and reviews of them. In this particular article, Thomas made a massive list of the best EDC knives on the market. […]
The prepper survivalist can never really have too many knives. And of course, there are more knives to be had than the Clinton Foundation has mysterious dollars in their bank account. By the way, just curious, but where exactly is that bank account? But, then again, your everyday bug in or out blades do not have to bear such names as Loveless, Randall, Dozier, Morseth, Randy Lee or so many other well recognized blade masters with retail pricing to match, not to mention waiting times for their products. Average, good knives can serve you well.
Nope, us everyday folks can obtain and use a slew of good quality, multi-purpose blades and tools at the fraction of the cost of a custom fabricated knife from a named maker. Right now I bet you can search your kitchen drawers, workbench, tool bags, and cases and probably find a dozen decent knives that will serve you well and do all the cutting jobs you need done.
A Blade Goldmine
So, to prove it, I did just that. I started opening drawers around my man cave, plastic storage boxes, and other hidey places just to see what would turn up. Like most preppers, I tend to horde and, from time to time, I have to do a reassessment inventory just to see what I have picked up since the last accounting.
And, yo ho, what a treasure trove. Category wise I found pocket knives, hunting blades, multi-tools with cutting blades, a box cutter, an electricians blade, a kitchen paring knife, a cook prep/garden harvesting knife and a handmade knife I got on a fishing trip to Homer, Alaska.
These few do not even scratch the surface of my odd collection of blades. Any and all of these suit me fine as a prepper. You just have to dig around to see what you have on hand now, then fill in the gaps if something in particular is really needed for specific projects or jobs.
As I hinted early on you don’t really need a $500+ Randall knife to do the majority of prepper work. If you have one or want one, fine, but all it will give you is an elitist edge, which doesn’t really cut cheese. That pun was not intended, but it did work out well.
Common propriety brand knives work well, too, but shop around and make sure they are not the low end, foreign made junk. That stuff is creeping into what was once fine lines of knives, so be careful. Blade brands like Remington, Browning, Kershaw, Ruger, Schrade, Gerber and many others are still selling some decent knives even though they may be made in China. Not everything from China is junk. Remember what Japanese-made used to mean?
All of the blades shown in the accompanying photos cost under $100, most of them well under $50. The most expensive was probably the IISAKKI Puukko knife I bought at a hunting and fishing shop off the main square in Helsinki, Finland years ago on a moose hunt with Sako firearms. The Puukko is a classic Scandinavian blade of high quality, and fine workmanship. That company has been making such knives since 1879.
Also Read: Cold Steel Pocket Bushman Knife Review
The common tools like a box cutter, a very useful and necessary cutting implement, can be bought at any hardware or building supply store for under $10. Buy several of the disposable ones for just a couple bucks apiece. These blades are razor sharp so don’t take them for granted. Same can be said of the electrician’s blade used to trim insulation off wiring. I talked an electrician out of that one at a trade show job fair. It has turned out to be a very handy little knife for many jobs around the house and campsite.
Other Blade Applications
Again, this is just a sampling but a good cross section of what every prepper ought to consider having in their Bug Out Bag, EDC, SHTF tool box, house, camp or escape hideout. A multi-tool like this little Gerber is a must. This one was on sale for $25 at a big box store during hunting season. It has a couple cutting blades, small tools like screwdrivers, and when folded out, it is a set of pliers. I use these all the time for a variety of jobs. Preppers should have several of these in different sizes, and one to carry on their belt at bug out camp.
See Also: DMT Diamond Sharpener Review
The pocket knives are just that. They are useful for cutting nearly anything from gutting small game, to cutting rope, twine, string, tape, rubber tubing, gasket material, you name it. I suppose a good pocketknife is just about the quintessential cutting tool that every prepper must own. In fact, it’s a good idea to own several of different sizes with different blade configurations, shapes, and locking mechanisms. Small ones can easily be carried. After all, one should always be at hand.
The hunting-camp curved skinning blade by garage knife maker Maynard Linder of Homer, Alaska is a multi-use blade. I went to Linder’s house years ago to watch him make knives with his trademark native Alaskan animal bone handles, mostly Caribou but other types as well. He makes all types of hunting, camp, cooking, kitchen and utility knives. They are reasonable in price, durable, and well made. His wife made the leather sheaths. The whole point here is that there are a lot of good, decent quality knives out there for a wide spectrum of uses for preppers, and survivalists. Whether it is for food foraging, repair work, building projects, general cutting and trimming, food preparation, or whatever, you need to assemble a good selection of knives for multi-tasking around your bug in residence, a bug out tent camp, or an SHTF escape domicile. There are plenty of good, cheaper blades available that do not have to slice up your prepper budget. Take care of them and they will take care of you for a long, long, time.
All Photos Courtesy of Dr. John J Woods
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There are many people out there who would love to purchase a gun for concealed carry or home defense, but they just don’t have any extra money. Ever since the Great Recession began, more and more people have been living paycheck to paycheck with barely any spending money to speak of. If that sounds like […]
Ever since I created the Katrina Rifle, I’ve considered adding a Katrina Pistol to my loadout. So when Glock read my mind and released their Modular Optics System (MOS) pistols, I knew the time was right to build a Katrina Pistol. Based on the same survival philosophy as my Katrina Rifle, the Katrina Pistol needs to be good enough to sit at the top of my short list of things to grab when running out the door for possibly the last time.
Symptoms and Solutions
The features of the Katrina Pistol are based on the need for a versatile, multi-purpose firearm. To be clear, the Katrina Pistol is not intended to be the simplest gun on the planet. If that were the case, the Katrina Pistol would be an overbuilt revolver in .22, .357 or .500 S&W. Instead, the Katrina Pistol is a hard working gun with features specifically chosen to make it effective and manageable. The Katrina Pistol needs no instruction book, fires when the trigger is pulled, lights up the night, paints the target, floats a red dot on the point of impact, and launches jacketed lead downrange with extreme prejudice.
When developing this pistol, it was not hard to outline the general features. Choosing a Glock for the platform was an easy choice. Perhaps, it was the only choice. No other pistol has the same reliability and lack of external safeties as the Glock. The cartridge, a 9mm, was another easy choice. The ubiquity and global popularity of the parabellum round minimizes the likelihood that this bullet will ever be in short supply.
Read Also: Glock 42 Review
The two Glocks most likely to claim my Katrina Pistol title are the Glock 17 and Glock 19. Both are 9mm, have rails, and double-stack magazines. Since the G17 and G19 are available in MOS, or Glock’s Modular Optics System, it was a no-brainer to move in that direction. To be clear, the capabilities of an optics-ready pistol are a game-changer. In the same vein as the Aimpoint on the the Katrina Rifle, a red dot on the target can make all the difference in the world for the shooter.
The rail is necessary for a weapons-mounted light. If possible, so are attached lights and lasers. Running a weapon-mounted light is essential for one-handed operation and positive target ID. If two hands are needed to operate both a light and a pistol, then you are out of hands when it comes to climbing, carrying, and breaching. Without a weapons mounted light, there is a very real chance of needing to put the gun down in order to light the way. That’s just not in my plan.
Follow The Laser Brick Road
Adding a laser is an excellent sighting solution that does not require alignment of front and rear markers, or a red dot superimposed on the target. Lasers can mark the aimpoint right on the target so there is no need for the gun to be aligned with a dominant eye. A laser-aimed Katrina Pistol can be fired from the hip, around corners, and off balance.
Further Reading: Bug Out Long Term (B.O.L.T) Pistol
Green lasers are physiologically more advantageous than their red counterparts. The human eye is much more sensitive to short wavelength green than long wavelength red. There is an issue with green light than can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. Particles in the air will reflect (or Rayleigh Scatter) the shorter wavelength green light more than red light. This bit of physics is the reason a green laser visibly shoots a line through the air, and even into outer space if you point your gun skyward. The danger is that a bad guy can trace back the green line to its source. This can be to your advantage if you work it right.
Back on Task
The Katrina Rifle article followed two lists: things I did and things I avoided. The semi-auto handgun, like the semi-auto rifle, is a mainstay of any modern planning. Glock is an obvious choice for handgun load-outs. Here are seven features I chose for the Katrina Pistol
1. Caliber: The cartridge of choice is the 9mm. No questions asked. The parabellum round is likely the most common defensive round in the global arsenal. It’s a battle-proven round with plenty of bullet options. Other considerations include the .45, the .40, the .22 Long Rifle, and the .380. But those other calibers, while effective, each carry their own inherent disadvantages. So to simplify the start of this project, 9mm it is.
2. Weapon Mounted Light: There are small lights available today that fit small pistols, produce small lighting areas, and have short lives from their small batteries. For my Katrina Pistol, I want a huge, mountable light output. The perfect choice is one that blasts out hundreds of photons across a wide area for a long time. CR123 batteries are fine since they are powerful and have a 10 year shelf life. Moreover, they work in freezing temperatures.
For this build I went with the Streamlight TLR-2G. It’s a rail-mounted 300 lumens light with integrated green laser. Three hundred lumens is bright enough to travel fast and ID targets, but not so bright to impede your own vision. Just be careful not to Barney Fife a hallway mirror and blind yourself. I played with smaller light/laser options like the TLR-4, as well as slimline brighter lights including the Surefire X300-Ultra. In both cases, I felt the green laser was necessary for a pistol to be Katrina-worthy. If needed, the laser can be turned off or run separately from the light.
3. Green Laser: The concept behind a laser is simple, but the execution of using one is a little more complex. Painting a target with a laser mounted on your handgun expedites ballistic performance. Where a laser really comes into play is when using the pistol away from your face. While red dot sights negate all discussion of sight radius, lasers negate the need to have your eyeballs behind the gun. A further benefit is that he laser can be used for one point-of-impact distance and another sighting option can be for a different, likely much greater distance.
4. Red Dot Sight: As anyone who uses a red dot on their AR 15 knows, it simplifies the aiming process to epic proportions. One eye, two eyes, blurry eyes, daylight, darkness, through a gas mask, offhand, weaver stance, flat on your black, strong hand, weak hand, both hands, it doesn’t matter. The bullet hits the dot.
For this Katrina pistol build I am going with toughest sight I know of, the Trijicon RMR. The RMR is a battery operated reflex red dot sight that is small, lightweight and one of the top choices for the Glock MOS system. Running for years on a single 2032 battery, the RMR, Ruggedized Miniature Reflex, is an adjustable-brightness red dot optic available in several MOA dot sizes. Furthermore, the red dot system is housed in an incredibly tough aluminium housing with specially engineered corners to distribute force.
5. Co-Witnessing Iron Sights: Co-Witnessing is often overrated. Mostly it is used to guarantee that the backup sights or iron sights will work fine with the optic in place. In other words, a single sighting plane must contain both both the red dot, post, and valley of irons. For this Katrina Pistol, I selected the all-black Ameriglo Tall Flat Black Sights. Besides being on the inexpensive side, the Ameriglos are a fast and simple replacement for the factory glock hard sights. Rising above the fray, they are, unlike standard sights, easily visible through the Trijicon RMR. Alas, the Glock MOS for RMR does not entertain such indecision.
6. High Capacity Magazines: Sometimes called “Happy Sticks”, the Glock-branded 33 round magazines are worth every cent. While it’s true that some other guns will run oversized mags, few do so with the reliability, durability and capacity of the Glock’s. But that is not surprising. In reality, the Glock 19 will happily accept any magazine sized for the Glock 17,19, 34 and larger. In fact, the only double stack 9mm Glock mag the 19 won’t eat is the 10 rounders for the Glock 26. This particular Katrina Pistol will be running mags with 15, 17, and 33 round capacities.
7. T-Reign Lanyard: Ripping a page from military history, this Katrina Pistol has a lanyard option in the form of a T-Reign retractable lanyard. Using the factory-installed hole at the base of the Glock’s grip, the retractable lanyard is easily attached and detached using a Nite-ize clip. It has the retention necessary to keep the pistol tethered under reasonable conditions. Moreover, it does not impede aiming the weapon. If this feature becomes unwanted, it can be detached with little effort.
Related: Prepper Pocket Pistols
There are many reasons to include a pistol lanyard. A Katrina-level event will provide plenty of opportunities to lose one’s grip on a pistol. Having a gun just a yard away is always a good thing. Furthermore, the lanyard will not interfere with holstering.
Taking it Home
The next step is to assemble the components and take them from theory to practice. I can’t initiate a Katrina-Level event to test the gun. This doesn’t mean I can’t test the Katrina Handgun in other ways. Keep an eye out for Part 2 to see how well the Katrina Pistol works.
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People don’t normally think of non-food items as having expiration dates. As long as it’s not something you consume or some kind of liquid, it should last forever, right? Wrong. There are plenty of solid, non-food items that go bad, and many people are surprised to learn that ammo is one of them. As long […]
Another Guest Post today. This one from the folks at Delivering Customers on a Secure Storage Room. Hope you enjoy. — What Should Your Secure Storage Room Contain? The Secure Storage Room: What you Need Read More …
While several icons of the American knife industry have faded away in recent years, they have been replaced by a new crop of forward-thinking knife companies that have introduced many new and innovative knives designed for EDC (everyday carry). Larger than most traditional pocket knives and more modern in appearance than the classic folding knives […]
I was fortunate enough to be able to have some trigger time recently with a Sig Sauer MPX-C 9mm carbine. It wasn’t nearly enough time – probably 200 rounds over a couple of days – but it was enough to form an opinion on Sig Sauer’s next-generation pistol caliber carbine. It was also enough to help me learn about the limitations and viability of the 9mm carbine as a tool in a SHTF-type environment. I wasn’t able to run any drills or courses, unfortunately. However, I was able to collect some ballistics information and run a few different types of ammo through ‘er, and found some interesting tidbits of information along the way.
A Quick Overview of the MPX
The Sig Sauer MPX family of guns is a modern take on the submachine gun class of firearms that started with the Thompson “Tommy” gun, and has since evolved into well-known guns such as the German WW2 issue MP40, the Israeli Uzi, and the ubiquitous Heckler & Koch MP5. These pistol-caliber carbines are defined by smaller frames than their rifle-caliber counterparts, light, quick-handling characteristics, fast rates of fire in full-auto versions, and mild, controllable recoil.
The Sig Sauer MPX, on first glance, appears to be a conglomeration of an AR-15 and an MP5. Take the upper/lower receiver design of an AR, along with the AR’s charging handle, control placement, and general order of operations, then combine with a short magazine well and collapsible stock from an MP5, and you’ll have a pretty good idea of what an MPX looks and feels like. All of the MPX’s controls are fully ambidextrous – including the magazine release, charging handle, and bolt stop – usually rarities from the factory on an AR platform.
Read More: AR-15 Magazine Management Strategies
The operating system is still gas-operated, even with the comparatively low-intensity 9mm round. It’s a short-stroke gas piston system that sports an auto-regulating gas valve that allows the MPX to theoretically run all weights of projectiles, from target subsonic ammo to full-tilt +P loads without a hitch…and should also allow the use of a suppressor with minimal hassle. A nice design feature – especially since many of those who purchase 9mm carbines will do so to run them with a suppressor.
The Sig Sauer MPX platform sports an innovative free-floating rail with keymod attachment points, that interfaces into the upper receiver with a slick groove setup – and it is completely removable with no tools required. Once one pushes out the forward takedown pin, the rail is unlocked and is free to slide forward and off the gun. ost AR type handguard rails are clamped on the barrel nut with set screws in some fashion or another; the MPX’s system is slick and clean with no extra hardware needed. Rest assured that it is solid enough for a sighting system to be mounted; at the range I pulled the rail off the gun and reinstalled several times between magazines, and the sights’ point of impact remained unaffected.
Speaking of the sights, The Sig Sauer MPX comes standard with Sig Sauer’s line of folding iron sights, but the full-length picatinny rail in the top of the rifle, combined with the keymod accessory mounting points, allow you to mount your choice of optics, red dots, lasers, flashlights…you know the drill. Overall, the Sig Sauer MPX-C that I tried did not leave the user wanting or needing to modify the gun with aftermarket go-fast gadgets; the gun already comes ready to rumble once you add your accessories. It ought to; the MSRP of this little beast is just a bit over $2,000. Luckily, if you can find them on the open market, they usually bring between $1,600-$1,800.
The Sig Sauer MPX-C model I was able to test had a 16-inch overall barrel length, the last 2 inches or so of which was a three-pronged flash hider. The stock was a metal-framed collapsible unit that retracted fully to the back of the receiver, as well as having an intermediate length and a fully-extended length, for a total of three positions. However, one quickly notes that this is not a collapsible in the fashion of an AR-15, where the length of the buffer tube dictates overall shortest length. The MPX-C’s stock rails slide forward to nest in grooves built into the upper receiver, and the buttplate rests solidly against the back of the receiver when collapsed fully; this makes for a very short resulting 28.5 inch overall length on a full 16-inch-barrelled rifle. With the stock extended, the MPX-C measures in around 33 inches long.
The MPX also comes in much shorter and alternate configurations, some of which you’d need tax stamps for. For further information on other MPX setups, you can visit their MPX site here. The rumor is that the MPX platform is made to be modular, with easy-to-change barrel/bolt setups, so one can swap the 9mm barrel out for a higher-horsepower .40 S&W or .357 Sig setup. I didn’t test this personally, but it makes sense, with the increasing demand for modularity in the firearms world today.
Shooting The MPX-C
I only had the Sig Sauer MPX for a couple of quick range visits, so like I said, I can’t give you a full, strong overview of the system, with multiple different loads including handloads, across a spectrum of distances. I was able to run three different loads through the MPX: Federal American Eagle 115 grain FMJ, PMC “Bronze” 115 grain JHP, and Sig Sauer’s own Elite V-Crown 124 grain JHP, the defense round I use in my carry guns.
Once I got to the range, I deployed my gear and let the others at the range “ooh” and “aah” all over the MPX. The rifle does draw a crowd, and when handling the gun and admiring the fit, finish and the overall quality the gun exudes, well, I must say it deserves every bit of drool and coveting that is a consequence of its very presence.
Also Read: Survival Gear Review Talon Grips
Once show and tell was over, I stuffed one of the two 30-round translucent polymer magazines full with the little cartridges, seated the magazine, and pulled back the charging handle to find my first surprise: the charging handle only pulls back maybe two inches before it stops, fully extended. Of course, because of the short length of the 9mm cartridge, this makes sense once one subjects a few brain cells of thought to the matter. However, when one is used to a 5.56/.223 AR platform and the much-longer charging stroke, the short MPX charging handle yank catches you off guard at first. This short charging stroke is just one of the ways Sig Sauer reminds you that they engineered this platform from the ground up to be made for pistol calibers.
I shouldered the rifle, and happily peered through the standard flip-up sight picture. And I squeezed the trigger. And squeezed. And pulled. The second surprise of the day came from the vicious, gritty trigger pull of a $2,000 rifle. What the hell? Expecting a fine-tuned machine and discovering a heavy, ugly trigger pull wasn’t what I’d come to expect from Sig Sauer – especially at this price point. I ended up inadvertently yanking the trigger and the round nose-dived into the lower edge of the target, 25 yards away.
Surprise number three came as soon as the trigger decided it would actually go off: BRIIINNNGGGGGG. The Sig Sauer MPX fired the round and cycled as it should, but the cool-looking, probably-maybe-effective three-pronged muzzle brake rang like a tuning fork that had been tapped on a steel plate. And it didn’t stop immediately; I had to reach out and physically grab the muzzle device to make it cease and desist the F sharp or whatever the hell note it rang. I pulled the magazine, jacked the round out of the chamber, so I could safely inspect the muzzle brake – and I noticed that just cycling the action of the MPX made hell’s bells ring again. Interesting – and I was rather taken aback that this was a feature that Sig Sauer let roll out the door. I checked the brake – it was pinned and welded properly and legally. I don’t know if this is the way all factory MPX muzzle brakes work, but I know this one did – and damn, was it annoying.
I ripped off the rest of that one magazine just to have some fun, but then put the MPX away for the afternoon to focus on the guns I brought with me that had nice trigger pulls, and the only noise they made was “bang”.
At day’s end, the owner of the MPX met back up with me, and we retired to my man cave to see what we could do about the trigger pull. He’d agreed it was pretty miserable; but he just wanted it smoothed out – no reduction in weight of pull. We stripped the gun into its main components – upper receiver, bolt and spring assembly, lower receiver, and rail. I dived into the lower to see what made it tick…
…and I was tickled pink to find out that the innards of the MPX’s fire control group are identical to an AR-15. That was a shrewd move on Sig’s part – if you want to drop in a Timney or Geiselle other such aftermarket trigger group, you just need to find the standard AR-15 parts…no proprietary parts searching, or waiting for the aftermarket to adopt the particular platform…if the aftermarket adopts it at all. Probably helps with inventory on Sig’s end, too, since Sig Sauer offers a full line of AR type rifles, as well as their new MCX rifle.
I pulled the basic fire control group out of the MPX’s lower, and treated the appropriate parts and areas to a nice loving 2500-grit polish. A liberal coating of bearing surfaces with TW-25B grease (I love that stuff) completed the package. About 45 minutes and an adult beverage later, I re-assembled the MPX’s lower and was pleased to find a nice, smooth trigger pull that weighed, by my guess, about 6-7 pounds. There was zero grittiness, and the pull was acceptable and useful for a MILSPEC type trigger. I didn’t touch any springs or remove any metal other than what was polished, so the trigger pull weight was largely unaffected.
Second Time’s a Charm
We hit the range again a few days later to finish sighting in the MPX and to do some more testing. I couldn’t do anything about the musical muzzle device (he will be swapping it out down the road for something that will interface with a suppressor) but with the trigger straightened out, we felt we could try our hand at some accuracy testing. I brought my chronograph and EDC Sig P320 Compact along too, because I was very curious to see how much velocity the 16” barrel of the MPX was worth over the 3.9” barrel of the P320 compact.
We dialed the gun in using the American Eagle 115 FMJ ammunition, since he has a readily available supply of this fodder. We sighted the rifle in at 50 yards per the owner’s wishes. The windage was spot-on from the factory, with just the front sight needing to be adjusted. My Real Avid AR tool came in handy to get the front sight to the desired elevation, and we were soon in business. Offhand, we were consistently getting 2” five-shot groups at 50 yards with the American Eagle ammunition. From the bench, we were able to tighten it up and pull in regular 1 ½” groups with the stock iron sights. Accuracy was very good; I’m sure if one was to run several ammunition makes with varying bullet weights, you could find a load that performed better. But the owner was very happy, and that’s what counted in this particular instance. 100-yard offhand fun shots at milk jugs were a hoot, with every shot connecting offhand once we got the “Kentucky windage” dialed in for the added distance.
We ran a few PMC “Bronze” 115 JHPs (I only had one box with me) to test function, group size, and velocity. The MPX fed the more open hollowpoint with nary a burp, though group sizes opened up to about 2 ½” at 50 yards, benched. I borrowed a few Sig V-Crown Elite 124 grain JHP rounds from my Sig P320 carry magazines for function, group, and velocity as well. These turned in the best group (just over 1 inch across, a ragged 5-shot hole) and functioned beautifully as well.
Overall, my time spent behind the trigger of the SIg Sauer MPX-C was thoroughly enjoyable. The gun shot quite well with open sights, and we had zero malfunctions over about 200 rounds. Not much of a long-term test, but one hell of a promising start.
Check Out: Buying SHTF ammo
Is a 9mm Carbine Worth It?
So, after having run a full-sized 9mm Sig Sauer MPX-C for a little while and having crunched some performance numbers out of the ammunition to compare a 9mm carbine to a 9mm pistol, I personally have to wonder if the 9mm carbine is worth the added bulk. The performance gains over the handgun just weren’t as high as I’d thought they would be. I’ll get into this further in another article – but for those of you like myself, who geek out over such things, I present the following data:
Federal American Eagle 115 grn FMJ:
Sig MPX average muzzle velocity: 1,321 fps
Sig MPX average muzzle energy: 446 ft. lbs.
Sig P320 average muzzle velocity: 1,113.3 fps
Sig P320 average muzzle energy: 317 ft. lbs.
Difference: 208.31 fps / 129 ft. lbs.
Difference per inch of barrel length: 19.65 fps/12.17 ft. lbs per inch of barrel
PMC Bronze 115-grain JHP
Sig MPX average muzzle velocity: 1,238 fps
Sig MPX average muzzle energy: 392 ft. lbs.
Sig P320 average muzzle velocity: 1,052 fps
Sig P320 average muzzle energy: 283 ft. lbs.
Difference: 187.67 fps / 109 ft. lbs
Difference per inch of barrel length: 17.61 fps/ 10.2 ft. lbs per inch of barrel
Sig Sauer Elite V-Crown 124-grain JHP
Sig MPX average muzzle velocity: 1,315 fps
Sig MPX average muzzle energy: 476 ft. lbs.
Sig P320 average muzzle velocity: 1,105 fps
Sig P320 average muzzle energy: 336 ft. lbs.
Difference: 210 fps / 140 ft. lbs
Difference per inch of barrel length: 17.35 fps/ 11.6 ft. lbs per inch of barrel
For comparison’s sake, a 62-grain M855 5.56mm bullet, traveling at 2,900 feet per second out of an M4 carbine, generates 1,158 foot pounds of energy. There are other factors to consider (muzzle blast/volume, magazine size, ammunition availability/expense, controllability under rapid fire, weight/added size of an AR or similar carbine), but this is something to consider when weighing the purchase and consequent utilization of a 9mm carbine vs. a 5.56mm carbine for a SHTF gun.
The other issue a potential purchaser would run up against is cost and accessories: When a new Sig Sauer MPX will run you $1,800, and then use proprietary magazines, you have to look long and hard at the system. If the MPX ran with P226 or c, I could see some definite appeal and justification on the price – you could stock one type of magazine for your carbine and your sidearm. But it doesn’t, so you can’t. This is a logistics conundrum you would have to figure out for your own SHTF/survival setup if you want to integrate a 9mm carbine into “the plan”.
For yuks ‘n’ giggles, I priced out a build using a Palmetto State Armory 9mm billet lower that accepts Glock 17/19 magazines. If you want to buy a pre-assembled upper and a pre-assembled lower through PSA, you can have a bare-bones 9mm carbine that feeds from Glock magazines for between $650-$900, depending on the configuration you like. You could upgrade to a couple Magpul accessories and throw an Aimpoint T-2 on top of it, and still have enough money left over from your Sig Sauer MPX fund to take the wife out someplace nice for dinner.
If you wanted to go higher-end than PSA and you have the ability to assemble an AR from parts, you could do a ground-up build using the PSA billet lower and high-end aftermarket parts to the tune of $1,200, no optics. Just something to consider, especially if you’re running a Glock.
I’m not trying to downplay the Sig Sauer MPX, but rather show that there are other options out there that will to the same thing for less money. However, what you will not have is Sig Sauer’s stellar customer service, unreal build quality, superb reliability, and the smug satisfaction that you have the best of the best protecting you. Your call.
Wrapping It Up
I thoroughly enjoyed every second I spent with the Sig Sauer MPX-C. It is a thoroughly thought-out platform, designed to be the very best at what it does within its envelope. And the gun certainly does that; the MPX is beautifully made, very accurate, and from what I could tell from my experience, flawlessly reliable, even with gaping hollowpoint ammunition. If I decided I needed a 9mm carbine for my arsenal and I had the money to buy and support it (extra magazines, spare springs/parts/bolt) I wouldn’t think twice before reaching for my wallet.
Where the Sig Sauer MPX-C would really shine is running with a suppressor and subsonic ammunition. A fast, light, quick-handling carbine that is quiet is definitely an arm that would be the pride and joy of any survivalist/prepper’s arsenal. This would go doubly if you lived in an environment where you would be indoors much of the time or clearing houses/apartments or other similar tight spaces. Even without a suppressor, the blast of a 9mm carbine is timid compared to a 5.56mm carbine or shotgun if you have to pull the trigger indoors.
However, even for a high-end system that will run you towards $2,000, it does have a couple caveats – that miserable trigger and the singing muzzle brake. Replacing these parts with items that are equal to what SHOULD have come on a firearm with this price tag could set you back another $300 or more – then you add in the price of a few extra magazines ($60 a copy) a high quality optic (at least $300 before mounts), and suddenly you’re sneaking up on 3 grand without even blinking. Considering that you could build/purchase two extremely badass AR-15s for that price tag, you have to think long and hard about your situation and whether or not the Sig Sauer MPX is the perfect fit for your situation. If it is the perfect fit and money is no object, you can truly do no better. It’s worth every penny if you have the niche to fill and the dough to spend.
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All Photos By Drew
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Few things turn on a survivalist like a new piece of kit that has tremendous potential. And two of them just landed in my bug out loadout. Cutting to the chase, they are Timahawks. ‘Timahawk’, you ask? Yes Tim-a-Hawk. The designer Tim Ralston got to choose the name so it only makes sense. Had I created the tool, it would be the Docahawk. You’ve got to admit that Timahawk sounds better.
The Modern Middle Age
Although the Timahawk is a modern take on a multipurpose survival tool, it traces its roots to medieval times when survival really did depend on skill and edged weapons. Ripping a page from the battle axe manual, the Timahawk put a contemporary twist on a bearded battleaxe.
Like a hornet, the bright orange color is a warning that messing with this axe will cause injury or death in every state including California. But seriously, there is so much more to this tool than it’s overt muscle. The Timahawk is an everyday survival tool that moonlights as a weapon.
As a war axe, the Timahawk contains the necessary features to fight old-school as well as provide a platform for necessary day-to-day survival tasks. I have to admit that I was skeptical about yet another heavyweight survival implement, but this turned out to be different. In the past, combination tools from the Leatherman forward have given those with a survival bend more of an advantage than the sum of their parts, but as the tools got larger, the differences got smaller. Axes, hammers, pry bars, and breeching tools were somewhat the same so a combination of those similar metal ends was useful but not exciting. Enter the Timahawk.
By combining a powerful curved battle axe with a bearded edge, with a heavy steel handle with a welded adz, the Timahawk quickly rose to the top of my heap of multipurpose heavy tools. Philosophically speaking, the Timahawk can replace many of the big tools freeing you up to carry more smaller, more precise tools. This is an important consideration since with a Timahawk and a neck knife, you could rule the world…or at least your little bug out slice of it.
Blunt Force Precision
I won’t sugarcoat this and say the Timahawk is a precision device for fire starting and minor defense. No, the Timahawk is a brute force weapon that has plenty of gross motor skill options for breaching, pounding, chopping, stabbing, and digging. In a nutshell, the Timahawk is the big stuff that you can carry while running.
As a battle axe, the beard or extended lower blade aspect, forms a hook that in ancient times was used to yank away the shields of foes during hand-to-hand combat. By latching onto the unfortunate foe’s defensive tools, the bearded axe would pull down and expose the fleshier parts of the adversary. As a deadly side note, the beard also made a wonderful horizontal impalement tool complete with a knife edge.
There are two versions of the Timahawk, a 27” 4lb version that steps on the toes of axes, and a 15.5” “Tactical” version that weighs three pounds. The heads on both versions are exactly the same but the handles and grip ends are different. Part 1 of this review will focus on the Tactical Timahawk, or the shorter version.
At three pounds, the Tactical Timahawk weighs about 1.2 pounds more than the industry standard hatchet, namely the leather-handled Estwing Sportsman’s Hatchet. That’s about one-and-a-half times as much, meaning the Tactical Timahawk is a formidable tool that is only two inches longer than the Estwing.
The Tactical Timahawk and it’s big brother the Timahawk proper are both made of pre-hardened 4130 steel. Compared to many of the knives I review, 4130 is an uneventful metal in the 41xx family of steels. It is a workhorse steel that wears the moniker “aircraft steel” when used for such things. It is a strong, dependable alloy with great properties for big jobs including crankshafts and roll cages, two things that when when I think about it might make a heck of a survival tool somehow. Maybe Tim has some ideas? Anything for preppers with the name “Crank Cage” has potential in my book. For reference, a similar steel known as 4150 (with just a little more carbon) is one of the few steels cleared for duty by the US Military in M16 and M4 carbine barrels.
It Adz Up
The Tactical Timahawk has a six inch curved cutting blade that chops, slices, and dices like any good battleaxe. A two-inch adz blade runs perpendicular to the grip and primary blade. An adz is a carving tool that dates back to the stone age. It also happens to be a formidable digging and breaching tool, but I doubt there was much to breach 8700 years ago, let alone structures to breach into.
My experience with an adz, or adze as Tim likes to spell it (both are correct), comes from mountaineering and ice climbing. Today the adz is a working tool for digging and carving when things are calm. For those with forestry bends, an overgrown adz is found on the famous Pulaski Tool named after the great Edward Crockett “Ed” Pulaski who is a US Forest Service Ranger credited with saving all but five of his 45-man team during the Great Idaho Fire of 1910. Taking no crap, Pulaski held his men face down in a mine tunnel at gunpoint until the fire passed. Five souls and two horses were lost, but it was a major credit to Polaski to restrain panic while applying his knowledge and science of forest fires. The “Pulaski Tunnel” still exists and is listed on the Registry of Historic Places for those who would like to vacation into my neck of the woods but over in Idaho just a few clicks west of my bug out usual stomping ground. And as far as Pulaski tools go, yes I have one as does anyone else around here who dabbles with living off the land.
The far end of the Tactical Timahawk contains a pointed butt with a sharpness angle of 70 degrees. The unhoned 5/16” thick steel is a blunt instrument at best. But blunt is exactly the personality you want when you need to call to action the base of the Tactical Timahawk. And given the grip and handle of the Tactical Timahawk for just such a butt-end announcement, there is little to argue about when push comes to breach.
Barehanded the 5/16” steel fights both directions so wearing a glove is a good idea. However, if you are in a life or death situation, a comfortable grip is for sissies. The same holds true for the punching grip of the bearded main Timahawk blade.
Bug Out Loadout
The never ending quest for the perfect bug out loadout just got easier. The Tactical Timahawk, at only three-and-a-half inches more than a foot makes for a serious contender for title of best bug out battle axe.
Also Read: 2o Things You Need In Your Get Home Bag
One of Tim Ralston’s missions in life is to combine multiple tools in one. The Tactical Timahawk is brought to you by the creator of the Crovel (crowbar and shovel), a Nax (knife + axe), the X-Caliber (multi-caliber gun), and many others from firearms to aggressive tools to watches. So the Tactical Timahawk was a natural progression, and tip of the survival iceberg, so to speak. Or perhaps the tip of the survival spear.
Using trees as aggressors, the Tactical Timahawk put a serious dent into any and all foes that got too close to me. It removed limbs, gouged holes, and punched debilitating slices into any bark that invaded my space.
The battleaxe is an evolved tool that provides both offensive and defensive aggression. When on the attack, the Tactical Timahawk force multiplies through mass, sharpness, and blade size. Rolston even sells the Tactical Timahawk as something you can throw. As one who has spent much time throwing conventional metal tomahawks, I’m not sure I could find the balance of the Tactical Timahawk without practice so if you intend on using Tactical Timahawk as a projectile, practice first since the disproportionately shaped head will throw off (pun intended) your usual rotation, and the adz is not much of a sticker. But at three times the blade size than a regular “hawk” you will have more rotation angle to consider a successful hit.
The adz is a two-inch horizontal blade that runs perpendicular to the main blade. Adzes are great at carving, precision chopping, and digging. In winter, the adz on an ice axe is used to chop steps, carve ice ledges, and flatten the tent space. Opposite the adz on an ice axe is a pick used to support weight or arrest a fall. But it should be obvious that the pick has little use during a bug out except for those who also pack zombie fantasies in their BOB.
As a digging tool the Tactical Timahawk lacks the volume to make a major dent in soil anytime soon, but if that soil is filled with rocks and debris, the Tactical Timahawk’s adz garners the same advantage the made the Pulaski tool rock the fire lines.
The scales (handle covers) on the Tactical Timahawk are recycled plastic. They are too smooth for my taste but that is easily remedied with a little rough sandpaper. I also added a paracord lanyard through the thankfully included quarter-inch hole in the base.
Something included on the larger Timahawk but not on this one is blade cover. When the Tactical Timahawk is waiting for use, like an angry rattlesnake or a bored kitten, it’s six-inch blade sits ready to attack anything that comes close to it. So a leather or Kydex sheath would be a welcome feature. And a place to start designing would be to pay attention to Pulanski covers which have endured years of trial and abuse. My Pulaski has a simple vertical/horizontal strap that covers the blades with mundane effectiveness.
The Tactical Timahawk’s beard has functions beyond those of the fighting kind. The balance point on the Tactical Timahawk’s handle is at the lowest point of the beard. This means the Tactical Timahawk will hang just fine on its beard hook. Whether on branch or rope, the Tactical Timahawk will grab on to anything that fits in the one-and-a-quarter inch channel between handle and blade with little chance of falling off.
The Tactical Timahawk aggressively attacks the single handtool space in the bug out bag. Classic hatchets like the Estwing and my favorite, the Gransfors Bruks, provide an effective bushcraft-level tool, but fall short when addressing the downside of mankind. For those darker events, tools such as the Tactical Timahawk are the best option. Maybe the only option.
Stay tuned for part 2, the full-sized Timahawk: An Epic Tool for good and bad times.
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With home invasions becoming more common in urban neighborhoods, having a way to defend your home from violent criminals is crucial. After all, the police can’t be everywhere at once. So despite the exorbitant prices charged by some gun manufacturers these days, gun sales are on the rise. In fact, the AR-15 may be the […]
Most who consider themselves prepared would rank the humble pocket knife as a survival essential of the highest degree. In fact, the sharp blade often exceeds even fire and water in immediate importance. So having a sharp edge ready to go no matter the situation means carrying a quality blade with you 24/7 or at least whatever part of 24 fits your lifestyle.
Therefore the place to cut costs is certainly not with your EDC blade. Everyday Carry is code for that which we have on us as much as possible. Not a tent or sheath knife, or even water bottle, EDC means right here, right now, and everything you have with you when you take off running.
A Lightweight Heavyweight
Zero Tolerance has generated a reputation on above average knives that not only vastly exceed traditional quality and performance, but actually set the bar high for everyone else. In other words, unlike many other brands, Zero Tolerance, or ZT, starts at the high end of knives and goes up from there. The problem, however, was pretty much the entire line of Zero Tolerance knives were huge and heavy, not to mention expensive. Now while ZT did address the huge and heavy with their 0770CF knife, they kept it expensive if you consider ~$200 for a factory folder.
Also Read: 6 Tools To Survive Anything
ZT began its journey back 2006 when, as they say, “We saw a place in the market for a Made-in-the-USA line of hard-use knives that would meet the needs of professionals in the military and law enforcement, as well as other first responders, such as firefighters and emergency medical personnel.” Considering themselves “Proudly Overbuilt,” I just had to see for myself with their lightest, smallest, thinnest offering.
Of the Zero Tolerance knife lineup, most of them overlapped what was already in my EDC stable. For a new ride to tickle my fancy, it must occupy a empty space in my knife quiver. The ZT I chose was a carbon fiber scaled assisted opening flipper with great steel and a most importantly a blade profile that I can really use for the ED part of EDC.
The USA, well Tualatin, Oregon to be specific is where ZT knives are born. American manufacturing by American workers is a significant selling point of ZT. For me, I have to wonder what is it with Oregon? Not only are there a couple dozen popular custom knife makers inside the Oregon borders, but also a company named Benchmade. Heard of them?
Although ZT traces its roots to its 2006 KAI Cutlery spinoff, many consider it a premium brand of Kershaw knives. But it’s more like the smarter better looking sister of Kershaw. Kai USA Ltd. is the parent company and in turn the Kai Group is the grandparent. Regardless of the Japanese connection, Zero Tolerance claims all its knives are built in Tualatin, Oregon which happens to be the headquarters of Kershaw. So you can see how some confusion could arise.
Crash and Burn
The Zero Tolerance 0770CF is a super tough lightweight assisted flipper with ELMAX steel and carbon fiber scales. The 0770CF is essentially the new and improved version of the short lived and ultimately doomed Zero Tolerance 0777 which was an amazing folder of mythical features. So much so that when the “Triple Seven” went from computer screen to factory floor, there were just too many design obstacles and engineering overlaps to overcome. Hype turned to horror and the knife disappeared almost as fast as the Remington R51. Or in Zero Tolerance parlance the 0777 was a “very limited-run.” And to further hide the past, ZT released the 0770CF with the added feature of being, “much more generally available.” Either way, the 0777 was a $475 unicorn, and the 0770CF is a glass of icewater in the face at less than half the price.
The shape of the 3.25 inch blade on the 0770CF combines several useful design elements including a slightly full belly, a gentle interpretation of a Wharncliffe tip, aggressive jimping for thumb purchase on the back spine, and an effective swedge riding the spine before expanding to full thickness just prior to tapering to the tip.
Related: Survival Knife vs. Hatchet
A Wharncliffe blade, as described in Wikipedia, is “similar in profile to a sheep’s foot but the curve of the back edge starts closer to the handle and is more gradual. Its blade is much thicker than a knife of comparable size. Wharncliffes were used by sailors, as the shape of the tip prevented accidental penetration of the work or the user’s hand with the sudden motion of a ship.” I’ve also read that the Wharncliffe shape makes for better penetration into an opponent’s muscle behaving more like a can opener than a slicer. But the 0770CF, not quite so much. Instead the 0770CF blade profile scores high in daily slicing, but benefits from a precision tip while maintaining Wharncliffe strength. The overall length of a deployed 0770CF is 7.5 inches, and when in the pocket, the handle alone takes up 4.3 inches of space. The thickness of the knife is a hair over 3/8ths of an inch, and the blade at its thickest is 1/8th inch thick.
As with most flippers, the deployment lever of the Zero Tolerance 0770CF doubles as a finger guard which in my opinion is over half the reason to carry a flipper. The SpeedSafe® assisted opening spring assist mechanism rockets out the blade with minimal effort, and the inset-liner lock snaps into place with a satisfying click. A added bonus with the 0770CF is that the assisted opening mechanism is completely isolated from the locking bar. Some assisted blade designs package the deployment and locking as one unit meaning that if the spring fails, so might the lockup. In the case of the 0770CF, complete failure of the spring assist would not render this useless as a locking knife. I do notice, however, that the longer the time between blade deployments, the more force needed on the flipper lever. Sometimes I am quite thankful for the heavy duty jimping on the lever as it digs into my index finger when trying to wake up the knife after a long sleep.
Related: Neck Knives For The Masses
The oversized and overbuilt pivot is the only obvious ornamentation on the naked carbon fiber scales. Three small black screw heads grace each side of the scales on the in a row along the palm-side of the handle connecting the scales to a steel spacer that occupies the rear portion of the grip spine. The foremost portion of the grip spine is fully open completely free from obstructions making the removal of debris painless whether dried blood, bone fragments, or more likely pocket lint.
The deep carry pocket clip is reversible, but only in the tip-up (when folded) configuration. Out of the box I found the pocket clip to be a little weak. After removing it and rebending the clip to my specifications, I now find the clip worthy of the rest of the knife. The blade is billboarded with the ZT logo on one side, and four lines of info on the other including a serial number.
Related: Fallkniven Jarl Knife Review
With a weight of three ounces soaking wet, the 0770CF fights much harder than it’s weight class. By using ELMAX steel, Zero Tolerance provides an in-house super steel choice that claims the best of all options. In my experience, the edge retention is on par with Benchmades house iron 154CM. The ELMAX seems not quite as durable as S30V steel but resharpens more easily. But we are splitting hairs here.
The balance point of the 0770CF is just where it should be, right at the index finger point behind the guard. Because the balance is where you hold the knife for precision work keeps the blade on task with little fight from gravity. Heavier blades can drop or twist when lightening or adjusting your grip.
A Knife in the Hand
The Zero Tolerance 0770CF is decidedly angular with pool table-flat scales that turn corners just barely slower than 90 degrees with one flat bevel splitting the difference between across and down. But that’s a good thing. The platform that houses the blade leans more towards the carry side of the EDC equation. The 0770CF disappears into your pocket barely printing even in dress pants. Considering that nearly 100% of the knife’s service life will be awaiting orders while tucked discreetly along a pocket seam, it is easy to overlook the lack of ergonomic elements when drawing, deploying and dissecting with the blade.
Better Than Two in the Bush
Any EDC blade worth its salt is a knife you can count on for daily hard use, as well as being worthy as a survival tool. EDC is as entertainingly controversial as is the contents of one’s bug out bag. Everyone has an opinion based on some fantasy of what will be needed when you really need something. As card-carrying EDC aficionado, I have carried folding knives from the lightweight Fallkniven PC, to the heavyweight Benchmade Adamas 275. So for me, the Zero Tolerance 0770CF is truly a lightweight heavyweight.
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by Bob Do-It-Yourself camouflage with spray paint is easy to do, inexpensive, requires no fancy gear, and doesn’t require a ton of skill or experience to do reasonably well. For
We recently had a reader email into the Survival Cache team with a couple suggestions for articles he’s like to see(those types of emails are always welcome, by the way!). He’d mentioned one specific item he’d like to see gone over. He wrote, “Another article I’d like to see if/when you and your team get the time is something on gun coatings. Like cerakote vs blued finishes etc.”
It’s a great question – what firearms finish will work best to protect your gun from corrosion and wear during a long-term SHTF event, or over a long duration of time between cleanings and maintenance? Well, as someone who was a professional firearms refinisher for many years, with lots of experience in cold bluing, hot tank bluing, nickel plating, and spray-on finishes, I’ll walk you through the differences of some of the most commonly encountered finishes, and the pros and cons of each. Hopefully this will help some of you decide where to plunk your hard-earned bucks to help preserve your “oh shit” guns when the chips are down.
Why Refinish Your Gun?
Most people that I encountered when I was refinishing firearms brought their guns to me for restoring – they had loved and used and/or neglected a firearm to the point of the finish completely wearing off a gun. Sometimes they’d been in house fires (brutal on firearms, even when they are in safes), or the gun was found in grandpa’s attic and was covered in bat crap, or they’d found a good deal on a gun they’d wanted because the finish was worn. In any of these cases, the reason to refinish was generally obvious and easily remedied.
These days, gun owners will bring their perfectly good, sometimes brand-new, firearms to a local finisher, looking to achieve a new finish for reasons other than restoring. Sometimes they’ve seen that sexy-looking camouflaged AR-15 or Glock on their (insert your choice of social media here) feed and GOTTA HAVE that same look…or maybe Multicam and brightly-colored metallic red/blue/green controls and accessories (why do people do that?!? All I can think of when I see those is those vinyled and painted up tuner cars in the early “Fast and the Furious” movies. But I digress.). Others, such as predator or turkey/waterfowl hunters, need their dedicated hunting gun camo’d up so as not to draw their quarry’s eye. I know some people who live for duck hunting will bring their shotguns in to be Duracoated or Cerakoted because of the superior resistance to saltwater corrosion.
Also Read: Top SHTF Guns You Haven’t Considered
However, for the purposes of this article, we will be looking at what available finish will help preserve your gun best when you are most likely to neglect the firearm. We are also assuming you are bringing your firearm in for a refinish (or possibly refinishing yourself); however, a variety of finish options – most of the ones listed here, as a matter of fact – are available on new guns as well. Remember, a certain finish won’t protect from serious abuse, i.e. hard drops on concrete or banging into rocks or being run over by National Guard tracked vehicles. What it will do is block moisture, skin oils and salts, sweat, and mud from contacting the metal and components directly. This effectively combats corrosion and rust – which we all know will screw your gun up and render it inoperable faster than we can say, “Ahh, shit.”
I’m not going to dig too deeply into the ins and outs of cold bluing because I wrote an article about it in one of my “SHTF Armorer” DIY posts on SHTFblog.com. You can read the article here. However, in a nutshell, cold bluing is the easiest way for most of us to restore a blued finish on our carbon steel guns. (Cold bluing does not work on stainless steel or aluminum.) It’s as accessible as going to our local gun shop and grabbing a bottle off the shelf or ordering it off Amazon. I like Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue, and I have had good results with Birchwood Casey’s Perma-Blue as well. And when applied properly, it can look pretty good and generally protects raw metal acceptably well. As a counterpoint to all this convenience, cold blue does not hold up well to long-term use and will quickly wear off. But it never hurts to have a sealed bottle (it evaporates) in the armorer’s box to throw some finish on a worn gun if needed.
Cold Blue Pros:
- Cheap and accessible – around $10 for a 3 oz. Bottle of Birchwood Casey Perma Blue, available at most gun shops, even Wal-Mart
- Do-it-yourself compatible – refinish a gun while you watch “Hogan’s Heroes” and “Desperate Housewives” reruns
- Looks pretty good when applied properly with attention to detail
- Good for spot touch-ups
Cold Blue Cons:
- Does not offer very good corrosion protection – but it’s better than nothing
- Wears very easily under frequent use, necessitating re-applications or a more serious finish
- Looks awful and splotchy when not done properly or if oils are present when applying
Hot Tank Bluing
Hot tank bluing comes in a couple different forms, but far and away the most commonly used is a Caustic Black finish. This method involves immersing cleaned and degreased carbon steel parts into a bath of “bluing salts”, which are made up of sodium hydroxide, sodium nitrite, and sodium nitrate (plus other proprietary ingredients, depending on who you source the salts from.). The salts are mixed with water at certain ratios, then boiled at between 275-315° F. The chemicals in the boiling bath interact with the steel of the firearm, and convert the exterior surface metal of the firearm to Magnetite, which is also known as “black oxide of iron”. Magnetite provides a deep, rich blackish-blue color to firearms, and is the most common finish used by many firearms manufacturers due to the ease of consistent finishes in large quantities. I worked with hot tank bluing for many years, and the chemical composition is corrosive as hell and can burn your skin badly if care is not taken, and specialized equipment, burners, and boiling tanks are required to do the job correctly.
Related: SHTF Guns On A Budget
Hot tank bluing provides very good rust resistance that is made better with the application of a good penetrating gun oil. Its wear resistance is much better than cold blue, but the finish can still wear over time with daily use – just go into any gun shop and take a gander at any well-used hunting-type rifle. I bet it’s got use and silver bare metal wear on the high-traffic carrying areas areas. However, since bluing salts react with the carbon in the steel, hot tank bluing cannot be used on most types of stainless steel – and it definitely cannot be used with aluminum. Aluminum will usually either get eaten away by the salts or react adversely, possibly causing super heated gas “explosions” in the tank that can cause your boiling hot caustic bath to spray everywhere. Care must also be taken with firearms like double-barreled shotguns that have a rib between the two barrels. The rib must be vented with drilled holes, or else the air inside the rib can heat and expand, blowing the barrels apart. But I digress.
Here is a picture of a rare Marlin “Marauder” in .35 Remington that I reblued probably 12 years ago – it has seen regular hunting use in the Maine woods since then. The finish is barely worn at the carrying points, showing that hot tank bluing is very attractive durable and when taken care of.
Hot Tank Blue Pros Pros:
- Provides a beautiful, consistent, deep black finish to steel
- Long lasting, durable, provides good corrosion resistance – especially when combined with regular maintenance and oiling
- Pricing to refinish by a professional is usually reasonable
- Has been used for for decades as the go-to finish for most commercial firearms – so you know it does its job well
- A great way to go to refinish your steel firearm or if you’re buying new
Hot Tank Blue Cons:
- Lots of specialized equipment and experience required, large initial investment to get set up to hot tank blue
- Wears, especially at high points/corners after use
- Can resist corrosion for time, but if no oil is on the surface of the bluing, it can be compromised quickly by humidity, skin oils and salts, etc.
- Easily scratched if abrasive contact is made by metal, rocks, sand.
Parkerizing is a finish commonly encountered on many US military firearms from the immediate pre-World War 2 era through the late 50’s, early 1960’s, I’d guess. If you’ve seen a WWII era 1911 Colt, Springfield 1903, M1 Carbine, or M1 Garand – even up through the M14/M1A, you’ve seen a parkerized finish.
Parkerizing comes in many forms, but usually involves immersing a steel firearm in a manganese, iron, or zinc phosphate bath. The bath electrochemically deposits a dark gray coating on the metal that is very tough and useful. The dark gray can sometimes fade to a green-gray color over time or with the application of certain oils or coatings like Cosmoline. As a primary finish, parkerizing’s porous surface traps oil beautifully, keeping the firearm from rusting for longer periods of time between maintenance or wipe-downs.
Related: Best Handgun Calibers For Survival
Parkerizing is very commonly used as a base coat for other finishes such as paints or spray-on coatings like DuraCoat or Cerakote, due to its granular surface and phosphates in the finish. According to Wikipedia, Glock also uses parkerizing over its proprietary Tenifer finish as a tough, matte colored surface coat. Parkerizing is very durable, and its granular-feeling surface deposit finish can hold oils well, helping to preserve the finish that much more. If your SHTF gun is parkerized, no need to look any further for a battle-ready, rugged finish – WW2, Korea, and Vietnam proved parkerizing’s ready-to-rumble attributes.
Also Read: Survival Guns – A Beginners Guide
Here is a picture of a Ruger MKI target pistol customized by Angus Arms with lots of goodies including a Clark barrel, Ultra Dot red dot, Marvel trigger, and a full parkerized finish. This finish job ran about $125 or so, according to Angus Arms.
- Attractive, matte low-glare finish
- Battle-proven durability and long life, especially when maintained and oiled
- Already the go-to, as-bought finish for many popular SHTF-type guns
- A fantastic base coat with enhanced “tooth” for spray-on type finishes
- A bit of a lost art, fewer and fewer gunsmiths parkerize anymore
- Can’t be used on aluminum, polymer, and other firearms materials. Steel only.
Over the past ten or so years, sprayed-on finishes – I’m not talking spray-paint here, by the way – have started to really take the firearms market by storm. These finishes are a superb way to get colors other than the forever-available blacks, grays, and silvers that have been the norm on guns since firearms were invented. Though there are many spray-on type finishes to consider, we’re going to look at what are arguably the two most popular: Duracoat and Cerakote.
Duracoat, produced by Lauer Custom Weaponry, is a two-part finish that is comprised of a colored resin and a separate hardener. The two parts are mixed like an epoxy and applied via a spray gun, such as an airbrush (my preferred method) or by HVLP paint guns. When applied, Duracoat dries to the touch in about 20 minutes, and is fully cured after a few weeks. However, after drying overnight, you can reassemble your firearms if you’re careful not to scratch the finish.
Duracoat was engineered with the DIY guy/gal at home in mind. With an airbrush or paint gun, a compressor, some scouring pads and sandpaper, and some acetone, (a respirator, safety glasses, and ventilation is also HEAVILY recommended if you’re spraying indoors), the regular gun guy/gal can apply their own finish with excellent results that are generally easy to attain provided the metal prep work is done properly. There are also certified Duracoat appliers across the country.
Lauer Custom Weaponry has expanded their product line to offer Duracoat in an aerosol spray-paint can, as well as high-temperature coatings (great for suppressors), camo packs (stencils and Duracoat colors required for specific camouflage patterns), spray-on bluing (I’m interested to see how that works), gun “tattoos” (pre-cut patterns for your gun), as well as many, MANY different color offerings.
Duracoat is permanent, and very tough to remove if it is properly applied. It has a high elasticity for a finish, allowing it to flex slightly and absorb impacts reasonably well, as well as prevent scratches. I’ve personally Duracoated many guns, including my personal AR-15, and the finish is very tough once properly cured. Duracoat is air-cured, meaning you don’t need any special equipment to bake the cure. This makes it superior for items like optics, or any items with electronics/heat-sensitive components. According to information I found online, Duracoat resists 100 inch-pounds of direct impact, and has passed a 300 hour salt spray test, which exceeds military requirements for finish.
- Relatively easy to apply by the average Joe
- Very effective at resisting corrosion and mild impacts
- Has some lubricating properties
- No expensive special equipment required
- Much higher on the toughness scale than a rattle-can Krylon finish
- Huge amounts of attractive color options, plays nice with stencils
- Can be applied over any metals, plastics, wood.
- Over 250 colors available, colors can be mixed to make custom colors
- Banned in NYC – Lauer Custom Weaponry has its own line of “Bloomberg” colors, just to piss off a certain billionaire who thinks he knows how you should run your life.
- Susceptible to some solvents like acetone or lacquer thinner
- Takes a long time to finish curing
- Not as tough as coatings like Cerakote, but still tougher than most standard firearms finishes
Cerakote is the current king of the hill when it comes to firearms finishes. A ceramic-polymer compound, it’s specially formulated specifically for high-use, high-abuse-destined firearms. Several firearms manufacturers offer Cerakote as their standard finish since its wear and lubricating characteristics are excellent. There are two basic Cerakote offerings: Cerakote “C” are a single-component, air-cure finish. After it is fully cured, Cerakote “C” will endure temperatures of 1700°F, and and has been tested to withstand 550 hours of salt-spray. Cerakote “H” is a two-part, thermally cured (heated) system. The heat levels that Cerakote “H” will withstand are lower (400°) but has been tested for 2,500 hours (!) of salt spray endurance. Needless to say, Cerakote’s resistance to corrosion is superb. Cerakote “H” also is practically impervious to solvents like acetone and MEK, and can resist impacts of up to 160 inch-pounds.
Related: 6 Tools To Survive Anything
According to their website, Cerakote now offers over 60 different colors, and can be used with stencils and combines with other colors for camouflage patterns- though I’ve read that Duracoat is a bit easier to use with stencils.
Cerakote requires a bit more attention to surface prep than other spray-on finishes, usually requiring a surface blasting with 120-grit aluminum oxide for a proper rough-up so the finish can properly grab. Hanging racks and a drying oven are also required for heat curing. Degreaser soak tank, HVLP spray gun, and a good air compressor for spraying and surface blasting are all required, not to mention the proper eye protection and respirator. An at-home guy can get set up for Cerakoting, but usually, due to the space and tools required, we leave Cerakoting to the professionals who can finish many guns in one shot.
This picture was supplied by Furlong Custom Creations, a local Maine builder/finisher, as an example of cerakoting.
- Tough, tough, tough! Probably the most rugged finish available for your firearm.
- Impervious to solvents, cleaners
- Can be applied over metals, polymers, wood
- Can be used with stencils, camo patterns
- Over 60 colors to choose from
- Did I mention it was tough?
- Usually needs to be applied by a professional with the appropriate gear; not DIY friendly on a low-quantity basis.
- Generally expensive to have performed, very labor intensive to do properly
- Once it has been applied to your gun, best of luck getting it off the gun!
There are other relative “newcomers” to the finish scene that were originally proprietary to specific firearms, like Sig Sauer’s Nitron finish (actually a DLC – Diamond-Like Carbon– Finish from a company called IonBond…it’s expensive, but extremely hard-wearing), or Glock’s Tenifer and Smith & Wesson’s Melonite – which are the same family of coatings that fall under “Ferritic Nitrocarburizing” or Black Nitride. I know ATEi is offering Melonite finishes if you’d like to get your steel parts finished in this coating. Robar’s NP3 is a form of electroless nickel plating that has excellent corrosion and wear resistance, as well as looking pretty cool if you like colors other than black for your gun. Gun-Kote is another type of spray-on finish that meets or exceeds military and aerospace requirements.
Also Read: 5 Ideas For Fire Tinder
There are many other extremely attractive, rugged finish options out there – and third party finishers are starting to come online to provide these finishes to the general public. I will hang my head and admit that I’m not terribly familiar with these newer types of gun finishes, so I won’t pretend that I do. If there is a proprietary coating or finish out there you’ve seen or heard of, the best bet is to do your internet research, talk with people who have that finish on their guns, and call the company who applies the finish, and see what they have to say. It’s your hard-earned money that you’re plunking down to protect a gun that may well protect you one day, so it’s worth the little bit of extra effort to make sure you get what you want.
Which Do You Choose?
So, there are myriad options out there – which do you choose for your SHTF gun? Personally, if money was no object, I would gladly bring my firearm to a quality Cerakote finisher – even if you just want a black gun – and plunk down my hard-earned dead presidents, knowing that I’d be giving my gun the most love I could. Cerakote’s hard-wearing properties and resistance to corrosion really make it a stand-out in the finish world.
However, I’ve personally Duracoated my SHTF guns and couldn’t be happier. I painstakingly prepped the surface to be sprayed, and Duracoat hasn’t let me down in two years. I’m not a crazy high-volume shooter like many – but I’ll shoot a couple thousand rounds out of my AR, and hunt with it every year. The only visible damage to the finish has been the end of the brass deflector, where it takes many, many high-velocity empty brass impacts. I have a Remington 870 I’ve Duracoated as well – and it gets almost zero use, standing vigilant guard as a home defense shotgun. The 870 receives no maintenance and no oil except for its yearly check-up, and there has been no corrosion, even in high humidity Maine summers in a damp basement. If I was more the DIY type, I’d go Duracoat and never look back.
As far as the chemical finishes go, I’d look at parkerizing, hot tank bluing, and then cold blue – in that order. These finishes are excellent to good, but require higher maintenance, especially in high-use and high humidity environments. I certainly don’t turn my nose up at these finishes – I dearly love a high polish, deep hot tank blue on a classic hunting firearm – but for a SHTF gun that needs to perform in ugly environments, the spray-on finishes are the way to go these day. That’s my opinion – how about yours?
Photo credits: Drew, Angus Norcross, Jeff Furlong
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Being a restless survivalist, I find the endless pursuit of the best single knife to be both a noble one and and endless one. Or so I thought. The Fällkniven A1 Pro may have brought an end to my quest for the perfect survival knife, and become the life-long quest of other like minds. Could the Fallkniven A1 Pro be the best survival knife? The knife to end all survival knives? Let’s consider it.
Is the Fällkniven A1 Pro the Ultimate Survival Knife?
The Fällkniven knife company has decades of experience at the unique and effective intersection between necessary traditions and technological innovation. Some knife brands lean so far to the innovative side that they never quite fully bake an idea while others swing the pendulum too far the other way and hold a knife design to archaic steel and features that work well, but are far from what’s possible. Not that I’m encouraging the use of performance enhancing chemicals, but I am thrilled that Fällkniven has put its indomitable and proven A1 knife on steroids. And the results are astonishing.
Department of Redundancy Department
What makes the A1 Pro survival knife so amazing is that Fällkniven took an already amazing knife and made it even more amazing. And as one who considers himself an aficionado of survival knives, I don’t say this lightly. The Fällkniven A1 Pro is related to the A1, but kind of alike a tough kid that has a Navy SEAL for a big brother. The A1 Pro is a complete and total upgrade of already high performance option.
Taking a step back, let’s look at how the Fällkniven A1 Pro came to be, and why the A1 Pro will not have be a serious contender for the World’s Best Survival Knife for a long time. Fällkniven began building on the Swedish blade traditions back in the early 1980’s. It’s F1 knife was chosen as the singular survival blade for the Swedish Air Force. And the F1 also gained respect and notoriety as an excellent solution when a smallish survival knife is needed. What makes the F1, and later the A1 and now the A1 Pro such definitive blades is their steel technology. And a few other things.
Now this is a Knife
Jumping ahead, the Fällkniven A1 quickly became a survival success story by providing the essentials and much more. By laminating two supersteels, into a configuration that makes it not only outperform most other high end blades, but its combination of blended steels in a single blade puts the Fällknivens out of reach of other knives in overall strength, raw performance and technical prowess.
Also Read: Fällkniven F1 Survival Knife Review
But what happens when a purveyor of extremely high end blades takes a step back and assesses the performance of its own best edges, then turns up the volume on one of its best sellers and highest achievers. Well, I guess you get the A1 Pro. So it’s official. Fällkniven goes to 11!
The Fällkniven A1, the original one, was a test bed for all things survival. It pushed the limits of laminated steel giving the serious knife user a glimpse of what’s possible when performance outweighs tradition. From that point on, the world got a taste of things to come. Now imagine Fällkniven taking everything good about the A1 and pumping it full of steroids. The passing similarities between the A1 and the A1 Pro are only apparent from a distance.
While the grip size is the same, the material is different and the sometimes-debated finger guard shape is reversed. And best of all, the already thick blade is even thicker and made of a ultra-high end cobalt-laminated steel. The sheath is beefier and stronger. The edge is a more refined convex shape. And the knife comes in a presentation box that doubles as a waterproof container complete with Fällkniven’s professional quality diamond sharpening stone, the DC4.
The A1 Pro contains a core of cobalt steel rather than the VG10 of its father. Cobalt steel (CoS) contains about 2.5% Co, along with a slightly higher chromium content. This magic mix of alchemy provides a better edge that stays sharp longer while hovering around 60 on the Rockwell (HRC) Scale.
Related: ESEE 6 Knife Review
Cobalt steel is not a recent phenomenon for Fällkniven. It was experimented with in prior Fällkniven knives including the KK and the PC. As the results came in, it was clear that cobalt steel was the next go-to steel when the best was desired. Add to that an “Improved Convex Edge” and you are on the literal and figurative bleeding edge of cutlery technology. Cobalt steel blades truly are playing with sharpness at the molecular level of steel, not just the crystalian level. In other words, sharp is a cousin, and cobalt steel is your filthy rich uncle.
Thick as a Brick
Seven is the new norm. At seven millimeters thick the blade has added strength beyond the already ridiculous strength of the regular A1. And that strength has extended into the grip with a thicker and wider tang that, like the A1, extends the all the way through and out the other end.
Consider the Bar Raised
Fällkniven admits that to claim something “professional” requires a corresponding and honest raising of the bar. And Fällkniven delivered to an astronomically high level. At the time of this writing, the Fällkniven website shows the A1 Pro as “sold out.” Think about that for a moment. In a world hip-deep in survival knives priced from the same as a couple gallons of gas to more than a car. Then Fällkniven comes along and makes survival knife along with its dozen other survival knives already on their resume. And this newcomer sells out before most folks even hear about it.
What’s in the Box?
The Fällkniven A1 Pro arrives inside a black watertight plastic box complete with foam liner and embossed lid. Inside the box is the Fällkniven A1 Pro knife, it’s sheath, and Fällkniven’s DC4 diamond sharpening stone. The box is a nice touch and Fällkniven encourages its use for storing other things like electronics. It’s not quite a Pelican but certainly more than a Plano.
The stone is an excellent choice. In addition to high end survival knives, Fällkniven also makes top notch kitchen cutlery and the tools to keep them razor sharp. The DC4, or Diamond/Ceramic 4-inch stone has a gold diamond surface of 25 micron grit on one side and a synthetic sapphire ceramic stone on the other. In addition to being able to sharpen the hard laminate supersteels, no lubrication is needed for smooth sailing.
Also Read: Smith’s Pocket Pal Knife Sharpener Review
The zytel sheath is an upgrade over the standard A1 model. The Pro sheath is beefier with more pronounced strengthening fins. It also is more adaptable to MOLLE and other attachment systems with its inch-wide wings that will accept horizontal straps. The Pro sheath uses the same riveted strap for a belt loop and friction retention. In lieu of the thumb ramp present on the classic A1 sheath, the strap’s ear has the job now.
And the Knife
Even a cursory glance at the A1 Pro says this knife is all business. From the grip to the guard to the blade to the frighteningly thick spine, this knife demands respect. At 11.2 inches overall length, the A1 Pro is not for the faint of heart or for those with low muscle tone. The 6.3 inch blade, while not the longest tool in your bug out bag, is actually plenty for any confrontation with a human or larger critter outside those of the Grizzly variety.
Unlike the regular A1 knife that used a Kraton plastic for a grip material, the A1 Pro takes a cue from the Fällkniven F1 and runs Thermorun plastic on the handle of the A1 Pro. To quote myself in my review of the F1, Thermorun, “As an olefin thermoplastic material it is extremely durable, and has great properties for a survival knife grip. Thermorun is an electrical insulator, resistant to weathering, impervious to most chemicals that a knife would encounter, and pretty much ignores temperature changes. It feels great in the hand with just enough rubbery texture to keep the blade from sliding around, but still firm enough to avoid that tacky feeling of softer plastic grips.”
Also Read: Parry Blade Knife Review
Like the regular A1, the tang of the A1 Pro extends throughout the grip and out the top. However, Fällkniven did upgrade the tang by making it larger, thicker and tapered. But the real change is in the finger guard. On the regular A1 the guard was covered in the same Kraton plastic as the grip, and leans just slightly back towards the hand. The finger crossguard on the A1 Pro is polished, stainless steel, thicker welded to the frame, and opens out towards the blade. Why this is important is due to some index finger strain when using the regular A1 for repetitive long-duration woodworking tasks.
Sorry About That
Fällkniven is apologetic about the price of the A1 Pro. They defend the higher cost of the A1 Pro (presumably compared to the regular A1) because of the more expensive steel, more expensive grip and guard, and more expensive containment and sharpening solutions included with the A1 Pro. But frankly, if one compares the A1 Pro to anything custom, the A1 Pro seems mainstream in its pricing. Either way, at the time of this writing, Fällkniven lists the A1 Pro as “sold out” so discussion about price are somewhat recreational. Personally, I find the price of the A1 Pro completely reasonable, but like any pro-level piece of equipment, it only seems expensive if you don’t have the skills to extract the benefits from it.
Riding Into The Sunset
Like many preparing for SHTF events and the likely WROL that will follow, I’m always looking for the next big thing in bladeware. Until now I was restless, always looking over my shoulder to see what else was out there. But with the A1 Pro in hand, a calm settled over my quest for the ultimate survival knife. Fällkniven’s Pro version of one of the world’s best survival knives, their own A1, as moved the bar so high that most general arguments are moot. With the Fällkniven A1 Pro on the scene, the quest for perfection is now simply a question of preference.
All Photos By Doc Montana
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Okay, so this is a little different from the kind of videos I normally share, but I just couldn’t resist. Grant Thompson came up with an idea for exploding targets that are cheap, easy, and safe to make. Shooting these is a lot more fun than shooting tin cans because they make a really loud […]
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: disasters are when you need your firearms the most! During major disasters, police are stretched to the limit while desperate people loot their neighbors’ homes and criminals take advantage of the lack of law enforcement. Robberies, assaults, and murders skyrocket during such times, which is why […]
Does your carry pistol limit what you do? Do you worry about exposing your gun to the elements? Is your carry preference too much of a burden for many activities? If you answered yes to any of these questions then you should consider the Glock 42. For me, I wanted a familiar handgun but in a small form factor that would be barely noticed when hiking, running, mountain biking, backcountry skiing, fishing, boating, and almost everything else. Of course if you rarely do any of the above, then a .45 strapped to your leg is fine. But for all those other activities, a Glock 42 is an excellent choice. And even more, the Glock 42 might just become your BBFF (Best Bugout Friends Forever).
I remember clearly when I heard that the next new Glock was a .380 instead of the highly anticipated single stack 9mm. Frankly, the .380 should have been a predictable release given the global reach of Glock and the .380-sized hole in Glock’s public lineup. I always figured that Glock could gut the 9mm market with a winning release just like Apple could dominate the tablet market if it dropped the price of an iPad Air to $199. But not this time. That came later.
For years I had a Ruger LCP. It’s a tiny polymer framed .380 of great reliability and limited accuracy. Plus it’s what I like to call a singularity. At the time it was alone in its detailed design meaning nothing else acted quite like it in both operation and takedown. But still it was a great gun. Some were close like Kel-Tec and historical Colts, but price and performance allowed the LCP to become the meme of its tiny slice of the gun market.
Glock is Knocking
The Glock 42 is like a miniature Glock. And when we say “Glock” we really mean the Glock 17, the 9mm that started it all. In case you were confused by Glock’s odd naming conventions where a 17 is 9mm and so is an 18 and 19, but a 20 is a 10mm and a 21 is a .45. But yet the Glock 40 is a 10mm, but there is no Glock 10 firearm. The reason is actually quite simple. Glaston Glock names each of his new patented inventions with a new ascending number. His first invention was the 1. His first pistol was the 17. His next the 18. Next the 19, then 20 and so on. And the next as-yet-unreleased Glock will be the 44. But don’t expect it to be in .44 magnum. My hope, now that you asked, is a .22LR. But I might be alone in that wish. Or not.
Also Read: Bug Out Gun Lights
Although I am quite pleased with the 42, I’ve long thought the 26 was an excellent bug out gun due to its small size and big performance. And I still believe that. The issue is that the 42 is just such an excellent gun at half the weight. By following the playbook of the Glock 17, the 42 maintains all the forward thinking advantages of “Glock Perfection” but in a tiny (for Glock anyway) pistol. The robust but simple aspects of every Glock are alive and well in the 42. Just smaller. Yes, I am well versed in the 43, Glock’s single stack 9mm. It’s a great gun, but as one deeply involved with the G17, 19 and 26, the G43 is little more than a need for new 9mm mags. And if I’m going with new Glock mags, I am going with a new and smaller caliber.
Decades or more ago, the ballistics of handgun cartridges seemed to solidify in the collective conscious of mainstream gun-owning Americans, turning to concrete and changing at the pace of gun writer retirements and funerals. Unfortunately, all that old info is old news rivaled only its speed of obsolescence as are books about Windows software and Apple hardware. New gunpowder, new bullets, new primers, and new guns all have tipped the playing field in the direction of smaller cartridges. Even the flip-flopping FBI is sniffing around the 9mm again. No longer is there a search for rifle power in a EDC handgun. Sure in the old days where you needed a four-barrel carbed big-block 427 engine to be Boss Hog on the road, but now a Subaru STI could smoke the Chevy in every category except nostalgia. Same with carry pistols. Packing a big-block six-shooter, especially a single-action like the one Stallone carried behind his back in the Expendables makes no sense against real world threats, not just Mel Gibson with macho attitude but with terrorism on the rise, and active response training to mass shooter events as common as a training as how to use the new copy machine, packing real heat means more than big guns. Staying warm means carrying any gun and the mouse guns of yesterday have grown up into the mean dogs of today.
However the Glock 42 has another use for me. And one that larger guns just cannot fill. I love the outdoors. All of it. From the snowy mountains of Alaska to the stone deserts of Utah. From mountain bike trails of Montana to the canyon rivers of Wyoming, carrying a gun must be as convenient and versatile as carrying a pocket knife. I’ve run into hikers packing giant caliber revolvers strapped to their chests, but that’s not for me (and makes little sense in the big picture). I’m not scared of bears or mountain lions. Instead it is the wacko drug-crazed two-legged variety that cause me concern. When relaxing at the apex of a mountain bike ride, or scratching out a campsite near a high mountain lake, or just wandering through the woods towards a secret fishing hole, carrying a larger gun on the hip is often not an option worth considering. But slipping a Glock 42 into the side pocket of a Camelbak, or dropping a 42 next to my iPod for a mountain run makes more sense than trying to justify not carrying iron at all because of its weight, size and snag-potential.
Related: 1911 vs. Glock
You see, if you always want to be armed, then there are two avenues you can drive down. Either only travel on those roads where you can pack the sizable bore you need to feel comfortable. Or get a vehicle that will allow you to drive those roads less traveled. Far too many good folks never venture out beyond where their equipment and imagination lets them. What I’m here to tell you is that if staying armed is keeping you too close to home then get some lightweight firepower that frees you up to go fast and go light and go far. And of course go often.
Until now, I’ve opted to carry either my Glock 26 or my Ruger LCP backpacking, hiking, and just generally wandering around in the woods. I liked the capacity and umph of the 26, but not its weight. But the Ruger is a true mouse gun with mouse sights, mouse capacity, and a mouse feel. Popping off a round or two into a large aggressive animal will do little more than make the violent critter more identifiable to Fish and Game when they track it down after finding what’s left of my corpse. But if push comes to pull on a fellow man, I want to tip the situation in my favor and even the LCP can help.
Although the Glock 42 has the roughly the same ballistics as the LCP, the handling and dependability make it a better choice in my opinion. The Ruger LCP is a hidden hammer-fired machine while the Glock is, well a Glock meaning it’s a striker-fired autopistol. And don’t get me started on the sights. Well, actually do get me to rant on them. Not the G42 sights which happen to be pretty much the same as every other stock Glock on this planet, but instead the sights, or lack thereof, on the LCP. Most shotguns have better sights than the LCP. In fact most sticks and stones have better sights than the LCP. Well, maybe an exaggeration, but not by much. The LCP is designed to be pointed, not aimed. The Glock 42 is decidedly one to aim.
Not So Terrible Twos
Now that we’ve got two years of Glock 42 under our collective belt, it is time to talk frankly about the .380 cartridge, this particular Glock pistol, and the so-called “mouse guns” in general. The rough spots about the initial Glock 42 have been discussed to death online. But to review, the early runs of Glock 42s had specific failure to eject (FTE) and failure to feed (FTF) issues. The issues were real and almost immediately addressed (but not really admitted) by Glock. More recent copies of the Glock 42 rolling off the assembly line have upgrades to the magazines, internal parts, and some believe the polymer frame as well. A quick swing through the top internet hits on about “Glock 42 problems” make this particular pistol one to avoid, but pretty much every negative review is pre 2015. Later in 0-15, there is little but flowing Glock love around the mouse gun campfire.
Related: Bug Out Long Term Pistol
Handguns are like pickup trucks; there are more opinions than actual models to have opinions about. Personally I am a six-cylinder Toyota Tacoma kind of guy. My friends drive F-150s or bigger, diesel Dodge Rams (note the oxymoron), and I got only one friend who drives a Chevy Avalanche. Whatever. But the reason I tell you this is that trucks like guns are a personal choice. We place our loyalties where we want, and base them on many factors including ones that don’t match the cold hard facts. But perceptions don’t have to match reality when reality is a rare commodity these days.
Actual studies have shown that most encounters where a gun is pulled in self defense involves holding and/or shooting the gun with only one hand. No perfect two-handed Weaver or isosceles stance, or aiming with any other perfect triangle of stability. Instead, the pistol is held out, arm bent and shaking, one hand gripping what it can of the gun. In fact, standing on one’s feet is for the lucky. For many actually trigger pullers they are flat on their back, bruised, injured, some even near blinded by fist blows. And in all cases your heart rate will be red lined and your breathing will be anything but slow and steady.
Where a mouse gun comes in handy is it by being handy. It’s easier to shoot. Lighter in weight. And the low recoil keeps the pistol in the fight almost regardless of the injury, grip strength, or limited vision. Those with dreams of sending .454 Casull bullet after Casull bullet downrange with accuracy are dreamers whose heads are filled with the stay-on-targetness of video games. Sadly but truthfully, most law abiding citizens would be better off with a .22 than a .45. Of course proper and real-world training changes almost everything. But for those who handguns lean towards the just-in-case preparedness side like food storage and flint-and-steel fire starting, the smaller caliber mouse guns may actually be a better choice. And certainly the Glock 42 is a viable and excellent backup or or bug out gun.
All Photos By Doc Montana
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It seems that everyone’s favorite piece of gear to carry and discuss are knives. With the variety of styles, shapes, sizes and the jobs they can perform, it is easy to see why they are a favorite piece of gear. When it comes to folding knives, I am very particular and will not carry an old pocket knife. I have seen a lot of guys carry those five to ten dollar knives that are piled in a box on a gas station or sporting goods counter top. Those guys always love to show off that new, shiny, cool looking knife.
By Tinderwolf, a contributing author of Survival Cache & SHTFBlog
Of course within a week or two, the blade locking mechanism has broken, the edge of the blade is as dull as a butter knife and some of the screws or rivets are falling out. Those guys might as well have thrown their money into the garbage can because that is where their cool new knife ended up anyway. For most of my life I carried a Schrade Old Timer, Swiss Army knife, or a Gerber Paraframe.
All three of these knives held up well, never broke, kept an edge and paid for themselves time and time again. The only down fall of folders, is that they generally don’t stand up to the activities I would use a fixed blade for. I know that I should not expect that kind of strength and durability from a folding knife as it is a completely different from a fixed blade. However, I always wanted that out of a folding knife, and I think I have finally found a folding knife that will perform as closely to a fixed-blade knife as possible.
Also Read: Fallkniven Jarl Knife Review
Over the years I have owned a few fixed, full-tang knives from Cold Steel and have always been very happy with their products and their prices. So, a few years ago I decided to purchase a folder from them and I decided on buying the Pocket Bushman. It is probably one of the plainest looking knives you can buy, but boy is this knife a BEAST! The blade measure in at 4 ½” inches long with an overall length of 10 ¼”! All the reviews said that this knife was big and it did look big in the photos, but I really didn’t appreciate how big It was until I was holding it in my hands.
It felt more like a fixed blade knife than a folding pocket knife. Unlike other pocket knives, the Cold Steel Pocket Bushman does not whiz open with a flick of your thumb. It is rather slow and you need both hands to properly open it and shut it. When closing the knife you have to be extremely careful. The knife has a rocker lock which is tough as nails but it is a bit different to close than other folders. In order to close the knife safely and properly you need to place one hand on the spine of the blade and the other hand needs to pull the paracord lanyard at the bottom of the handle. The first time I tried this it was a bit awkward and I almost cut myself. After opening and shutting it a few times the motions became very natural.
The handle has a very large and deep groove for your index finger. This helps in keeping your hand from slipping forward to the blade when working with the knife. The handle is probably the only downfall I can find with this knife. While I like the smooth steel finish, it makes it a bit tough to use the knife if your hands are wet. It would have been nice to see some kind of textured finished on the handle. However, there have only been a few times that I have tried to use this knife in wet conditions and most of the time when I am using this knife I am wearing gloves, which I highly recommend.
While this is a folder and it fits well in my pocket, I love that it can handle the big jobs as well. I have used it for making tinder, cutting cardboard, tape, ropes, tie downs, zip ties, carpet, to baton wood, gutted fish, and even split small logs. I still remember the first time I showed it off at work. The guys thought I had wasted my money on some big knife just to be a show off. While they were chuckling I bent down and picked up a broken piece of wood from a pallet. I then commenced beating the back of the blade into a very tall, thick stack of cardboard. Once I got halfway down the stack I turned to a pallet that was leaning against a nearby shelf.
Also Read: Benchmade Bushcrafter Knife Review
The Pocket Bushman easily took chunks out of the pallet and after a few minutes it came out the other side of the board. I turned around to the guys, showed them there was no damage to the knife and no wiggle in the blade, folded it up, placed it in my pocket and walked away. A few years have passed and I have used this knife so much, yet there is still no movement between the blade and handle, and it still sharpens very easily. I have added paracord to the loop hole in the lock release slide at the bottom of the handle. This is by far, hands down, the best folder I have ever purchased and would recommend it to anyone looking for a new tool. I believe, when I bought this knife it was forty dollars. I checked out the knife out on Amazon the other day and it was listed for fifty nine dollars. I have been thinking about getting another one and I would not think twice about paying that price for this knife. If anyone else has used this knife I would love to hear about your experience with it.
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There are, according to a completely-made-up-by-me-but-probably-not-too-far-off-number, approximately six billion custom kydex holster makers in the world. Don’t believe me? If you belong to Facebook, find a large Facebook group (or internet forum) for a handgun you have, join it, and then post the following query to the board: “I just got [insert make/model of handgun here] and I’m looking for the best holster for it. What do you guys use?” Sit back and prepare for the maelstrom. An example: I belong to a Sig Sauer P320 board on Facebook. Someone recently asked for the board’s opinion on the best inside-the-waistband (IWB concealment holster). In 21 responses, there were 14 different holster manufacturers named, and 16 different models. I hadn’t even heard of most of them.
With all these options available to a consumer, it’s really, really difficult to narrow your choice down to one offering for you to plunk your hard-earned greenbacks down on. A company/product would truly have to stand out to be noticed.
…And notice a company called GunfightersINC I did. Initially their “Kenai” chest-mounted holster caught my eye on a Facebook feed ad, so I contacted GunfightersINC to purchase a Kenai rig. While I was perusing their catalog, I noticed a slick-looking outside-the-waistband holster they had dubbed the “Ronin Concealment Holster”. The interesting little details they put into their holster, plus the overwhelming need I had to find a hip-mounted home for my then-new full-sized Sig Sauer P320 meant that I felt compelled to order a Ronin up at the same time. To, y’know, save on shipping, I told my wife.
Who is GunfightersINC?
GunfightersINC is a small, veteran-owned holster making company that found its beginnings in the year 2010 when – like many other company beginnings – the owner/founder decided to make his own holster after finding a glaring lack of gear that fit his stringent needs, for his brand of pistol (HK USP45, according to their website). Soon, the holster-making hobby turned into a business, and GunfightersINC has since been pushing forward-thinking, practical ideas and design philosophies of simplicity, ergonomics, and durability into the world of quality kydex holsters.
GunfightersINC uses only US-made materials, and all their products are made by Americans in Leavenworth, Washington. A perusal of their website will inform you that GunfightersINC is fiercely proud of their innovations, quality, and product lineup. That product lineup encompasses several practical designs – some mainstays of any holster manufacturer like the Outside The Waistband (OWB) “Ronin”, Inside The Waistband (IWB) “Wraith” holster and the “Spectre” shoulder holster – but they also offer belt-mounted magazine pouches for rifles and handguns, as well as the aforementioned “Kenai” chest-mounted holster. They also offer a gorgeous-looking leather gunbelt that is simple and unobtrusive, but designed from the ground up as a sturdy, long-lasting platform for your holster, mags, and pistol. Their product line is not cluttered with bells and whistles and unneeded glitz; it’s simple and straightforward and worth a look or three when you need a new holster, mag carrier, and/or belt.
Enter The Ronin
The Ronin Concealment Holster is an all-kydex, outside-the-waistband belt-mounted holster. Do an online search for “kydex holster” images, and you’ll see that there may be a couple variations on a theme, but most kydex OWB holsters pretty much look the same. So the question arises: if all kydex holsters look the same, what sets them apart or makes individual designs better than others?
Related Article: Holsters 101
The answer is “attention to detail”. Placement of belt loops/clips, rivets vs. screws, gun cant angle, materials, retention, and the way the holster’s contours fit your body and keep the firearm pulled into your body and hidden (if that is your goal.) Pretty patterns and colors are irrelevant (though GunfightersINC offers many) if the function of the holster is not thought out and executed properly. It takes a lot of testing, modifying, and holster evolution before a holster can be really good at its intended job – any schmuck can buy kydex and some tools in an attempt to make his own holsters, but chances are the final product is not going to be truly great at what it needs to do.
The Ronin Concealment Holster shows this attention to detail in a couple really useful ways. The first thing you notice that is a little different from most kydex holster offering is the belt loops. Instead of cast-off pre-made belt loops, GunfightersINC installs hand-formed, contoured loops that accomplish three holster-essential missions: they pull the holster closer to the body by hugging your body contours, the loops keep the holster secure and fixed in one spot on your belt, and they also maximize the comfort of carrying the holster and pistol. I will tell you after several weeks of wearing this holster and accompanying magazine pouch on a frequent basis, this holster is undoubtedly the most comfortable holster to wear – leather, kydex, or otherwise – that I own.
The belt loops are solidly hard riveted onto the body of the holster, ensuring the user that the holster will not move, wiggle, loosen, or work out of place. Many holster manufacturers offer a multitude of adjustment holes, with small philips head screws and rubber grommets so you can move the angle and placement of the belt loops to suit your needs. If you like a bit of adjustability in your holsters, I can see the draw (pun intended) to that sort of thing. However, for my money, I prefer a well designed holster that has gone through lots of testing to provide optimally-placed, fixed, hard-riveted belt loop attachment points.
The Ronin Concealment Holster also features a small strip of friction grip tape on the inside of each hand-formed belt loop. I thought this was a great feature, and it’s very effective when combined with the contoured loops: once the holster is installed on your body with a high-quality gun belt (I’ve been using the Magpul Tejas El Original) the holster DOES NOT move. This is a great thing once you have the holster on and where you like it; however, it does make getting the holster to that “just right” position a bit more of a tedious process – one must loosen the belt and pull the holster away from the body to adjust the Ronin’s position on the belt. But once the sweet spot is attained, rest assured – your Ronin will stay put tenaciously.
Also Read: E&E Gun Belt Review
I’ll be honest: the grip tape did pull off the inside of the belt loops eventually with use. After trying the holster with and without the grip tape, I can tell you that the holster works fine without the tape’s presence, but the grip tape definitely adds a bit of traction on your gun belt.
The holster materials are nice, high-quality slightly textured kydex. The form and fit to the gun is tremendous, which surely helps with the GunfightersINC motto of “Retention Defined”. The form is so detailed that you can actually see all of the accessory rail slots molded into the outline of the gun. While I’m sure this helps with traction on the gun, it also makes a weird “brrrrrt” noise as the gun is drawn and all those pistol rail stations have to slide through all those holster slot indentations. I’m sure this is quite gun-specific; the P320 full-sized gun has a full five accessory slots; most handguns have one or two, so your gun may not have this fun design auditory attribute.
The Ronin Concealment Holster – and all other holsters from GunfightersINC – come in a multitude of colors for the discerning buyer. I ordered Storm Gray, with black rivets – both no-charge options. For a slight upcharge, camo patterns or fabric coverings can be yours as well. GunfightersINC also offers custom touches as well, such as unit insignia on holsters and other cool items – contact them through their website to see what they have to offer.
Wearing The Ronin Everyday
So the Ronin OWB holster became my go-to holster when I could get away with wearing it – summer months came upon us quickly, making me don lighter clothing options if I didn’t want to sweat my posterior off. In addition, the sheer size of the gun I was putting in the holster – a full-sized Sig Sauer P320 with a 17-round capacity and 4.7” barrel – meant that the holster itself was quite long, and often protruded below the shirt or jacket I was wearing for gun-concealment purposes. But this is no fault of GunfightersINC or the Ronin design; it’s simply difficult to hide large, long-barrelled pistols – especially when worn outside the waistband.
However, when my exterior shell clothing was long enough to cover the holster adequately, the Ronin Concealment Holster was aces. The formed belt loops really suck the holster into the body nicely, and the general curved shape of the Ronin really helped blend the outline of the holster to my natural form. Grip printing – again, with a full-sized duty pistol – was there, but lessened compared to other OWB pancake leather holsters I’d tried in my local gun shop. After I obtained my P320 Compact, I gladly slipped the new, smaller pistol into the Ronin and the results were gratifying – much less grip printing under a one-size-too-large T-shirt.
But the real takeaway I have from wearing the Ronin is that the holster is, without hyperbole or blowing smoke, superbly comfortable – easily the most comfortable holster I own, as a matter of fact. With the holster and matching mag holder, and their respective payloads sucked in tight to your body, the rig feels like part of your person – not an added-on burden that slaps or shuffles around. Note: an essential ingredient to this recipe is a solid, sturdy 1 ½” gun belt. A good gun belt doesn’t allow the holster to flex, pivot, or pull away from the body, and should be considered essential to any holster use.
Related: 10 Tips For Concealed Carry
I’ve really fallen in love with this holster as an open-carry setup for when I’m out fishing, hiking, or canoeing. The excellent holster posture is a remedy to any ailment caused by other holstered handguns. In times past, I’ve gotten in the truck after a nice outdoorsy jaunt, only to discover foliage and other detritus finding a home between my body and the holster and/or belt. Pistols banging on gunwales, catching shirtsleeves, and pistol grips clunking on stocks of shoulder-slung rifles are maladies I’ve encountered with previous holsters – so far, the Ronin has combated these problems with comfort and excellent firearm retention. While this holster may be marketed and designed with concealment in mind, I feel it also comes into its own as an excellent outdoors use general purpose gun transportation apparatus.
I used this holster through many days of frequent one-handed draw drills, one-handed reloads and other manipulations, both strong- and weak-side. Draws were quick and positive, and the 10° forward cant helped hide the gun against my body without compromising access with the off-hand too badly if needed. The outside kydex shell was strong enough to allow me to rack the slide using the flat of the rear sight, though the edge of the holster got a little chewed up – this is to be expected with any kydex holster used similarly.
What I Didn’t Like About The Ronin
My complaints with the holster that are genuine faults of the holster are few and, to be sure, trivial. The edges of the holster are cut with wonderful precision, but then only minimally polished or sanded. This leaves a sharp edge that can scrape skin and abrade clothing. A simple light scuffing around the perimeter of the holster with a small scrap of 220-grit sandpaper remedied this problem nicely.
The aforementioned grip tape strips jumping ship from the inside of the belt loops was another small issue – but a little degreasing, sandpaper, and a very, VERY light application of epoxy (I used Brownell’s Acraglas because I had a bit left over after a stock bedding project) has fixed this problem so far. Other than the two small issues above, I have no cons for these holsters. Some may like a bit more adjustability or a steeper cant angle, but I am extremely pleased with this holster design and intend to buy another for my P320 Compact.
Related: 8 Tips For Flying With A Firearm
I did have an embarrassing and painful anecdotal experience with the Ronin Concealment Holster that I will share with you. The body side of the Ronin sports a sweat guard, which is a tongue of holster material that rides between your body and the interior side of the pistol slide. This sweat shield does indeed guard against sweat as its moniker suggests, and also keeps any pistol terrain like slide serrations or sights from rubbing against your clothing or body – it’s a great idea that is effective when done well. I once went to re-holster the gun after a spirited range session, and the searing pain that immediately resulted informed me that I had pinched a tiny bit of the ol’ love handle between the outside of the holster sweat guard and the gun. I had a hell of a sharp red mark on my torso just above the holster, and my wife definitely capitalized on my pain for her mirth. I guess the moral of the story here is that maybe if you run a bit of a spare tire and a close-fitting holster, you may want to seriously consider getting rid of one of them – preferably the couple extra pounds. Looking down at the holster while you re-insert the handgun is usually wise too.
Wrapping It Up
In conclusion, I was very impressed with the Ronin Concealment Holster and GunfightersINC’s product line. The holster’s design is excellent, the comfort level is through the roof with a good belt, and it’s a solid, no-regrets choice for someone who wants a good, all-purpose OWB holster that performs above and beyond most other kydex designs. Several weeks’ worth of EDC use with this holster indoors and outdoors, concealed and open, on and off the range, cements that opinion. I have every confidence that this holster is worth your extended consideration and hard-earned greenbacks the next time you’re looking for a great OWB holster. Shoot GunfightersINC a line and tell ‘em Drew from Survival Cache sent ya…and keep an eye open for the upcoming “Kenai” review…it’s a badass setup.
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by Jack Woods
Well, its time for some more back woods wisdom from me, Jack Woods. We all have our opinions on our favourite rifle for our favourite job. However, the question here is; what is the best prepper rifle?
If… you only can have one rifle in your bug out bag, what would that be Jack?
What would it be… is it that large calibre rifle that the often, very knowledgeable preppers like to see in those bugout bags? Is it the biggest, the nastiest full auto machine gun that we can find. Perhaps a Rifle capable of mowing down wave upon wave of brain eating zombies, hordes of the oozing- infectious undead. Fellow citizens suffering with some designer Ebola viruses created in a secret lab, right down the street in Main Street USA. A Psyop gone terrible the nightmare they keep warning us about.
Alternatively, on the other hand is it the best rifle able to perform most jobs well enough when the time comes. Like, feed our families, and maybe drop a zombie or two when presented with one.
Custom multi Calibre/Barreled rifles that are available
Now, aside from the obvious over and under models of custom guns by those talented old time gunsmiths like “Krieghoff, Carl Stiegele, or even Savage Arms, theirs are usually referred to as the “Model 24s”. Most are rare guns mostly made by the high-end designer rifle companies?
We often wonder whether they are a myth, to good to be true. How can a rifle do it all? Maybe they are just another example of an all season tire that doesn’t perform well in any season. These fancy checkered stocked shiny hunting irons are being produced with some very expensive tropical woods and gold plated triggers, but sorry they are are not the topic of this article.
These rifles from the fancy sporting makers have dual barrels that often have a shotgun barrel on top, and small calibre like a .22 underneath it, or some have a large bore rifle on top and a 410 under that. Some even have as many as 4 barrels in total. However, I am doubtful about how long you could stand and aim such a weapon accurately. They are beautiful to look at and great, but lets talk about what we can commonly find on most gun store racks, in our lower price range, CHEAP.
Let us look at a rifle as more of a tool than a defense weapon too.
What do you need ideally?
Well let us see, using my infallible back woods reasoning here, lets try to narrow it down a bit. First, we need to consider the scenario of the collapse. What kind of collapse is it? One collapse might be something different to one person then to another. It may simply be that your local Seven Eleven has run out of wonder bread, and cold beer or perhaps it is a short-term food shortage down at the Quickie-Mart, due to a truckers strike.
Alternatively, maybe it is a Katrina hurricane like aftermath, were the National Guard is called in. On the other hand, some kind of apocalyptic Mad Max home coming, that is unfolding uncontrollably across the entire globe, with insurrection, martial law, armoured vehicles roaming the streets, cholera, or some other nasty epidemic. Future calamities, like these hat present themselves this way will create an entirely different set of challenges to most trying to survive, be it by him or her self, or when trying to hold a frightened family together.
The Short List of Survival
Therefore, I always like to start with my favourite list of necessities for your long-term survival.
THE SHORT LIST:
(Not necessarily in that particular, order either.)
The Zombie Apocalypse
If you ever to find yourself in one of the aforementioned scenarios, and you are missing any one of the five items from the above list, you will understand what I mean by long-term survival. For instance, you might want to get out and procure said essential item right away, while you still can.
Before the looters take it all. That is to say, do it, get out into whatever calamity you find yourself in, which usually happens under the strife of some social upheaval. They always are manifesting themselves in some violent form or another. Your objective is to then try, and flee town for higher ground and some safety for your family. At least until things blow over.
This can be a dicey maneuver for a lone prepper, and trying to do this little reconnaissance move unarmed, and during the heat of an uprising or total collapse, can be impossible. Perhaps there is looting, or better yet, a riot, or maybe there are predatory gangs of miscreants wandering the streets, hunting humans for sport. Yet, all you really need is to do sneak down to the corner store and procure some milk for the wee one who will not stop driving your wife nuts.
This is how that scene could play out.
Your choice of prepper rifle is… “Well easy then”, the man behind the counter slides the rifle across the glass counter, with a squeal. “The rifle of choice is an AK-47 still smelling of the gun oil it is packed in, or an AR-15 with well-stocked 30 shot banana magazines taped back-to-back, and ready for action. Better, yet,” he then heaves from the rack behind him a monster of a gun a flat black M-60 complete with a 6 foot bandolier chock full of shiny 30 calibre brass cartridges. You can see yourself now in the blazing sun of the aftermath. Can’t you?
You fondle it, “This will work nicely to deter those crack heads and losers down at the quickie- mart, simply by its merit of pure intimidation”.
As soon as they take one look at that babe hanging from your shoulder, they will not be messing with you my friend, trust me.
Now for My Devils Advocate
What if on the way back from the corner store you come upon a covey of quail or fuzzy bunnies, or maybe that big city vermin, the common pigeon. What luck an entire flock has alighted on that statue of that dead president you always-hated, right there in your favourite park.
Then you think to yourself, “darn, I forgot to pick up that can of baked beans and Vienna sausages for the kiddies”.
You don’t, want to make your way back through those zombie hordes surrounding the Quickie-mart, or wade across those cholera-choked drainage ditches, all for a simply can of beans, do yeah?
Then it hits you, “I have a weapon, sure it’s a might bit big for the job, and not for hunting but who cares? Besides, the little woman has been hankering for some squab. She said so just the other day. So why not stop by the park test it out on a bevy of pigeons. Turn the shiny new 30 cal. Monster that you purchased at “Big Bob’s Battle Emporium”, into a fowling gun”, why not?
“Besides, it’s on the way, and those gang bangers and crack heads won’t bother me for sure”, not while you are spraying the park for pigeons, with your new toy.
You think to yourself, “This is a great idea”, and all seems right with the world again; except after you gather the remains of your quarry in one of those plastic bags from the Quickie-Mart. You arrive home, and present the prize to the little woman. She looks at you disappointed, then at the bag of gore and feathers, then back to you. You swell up proudly. Unbeknownst to you, you have just presented her with what you thought was a fine dinner. She waves the dripping plastic bag of mush like a hypnotist waves a gold watch, back and forth in front of your vacant stare. You smile ear-to-ear thinking “what a great provider I am”.
Then you really see it… for the first time.
The bag of bird parts, and your ever-beautiful ever patient honey bun glaring back at you with that look… you know the one… the one she uses when you have disappointed her yet again.
She then points her trembling finger at the barricaded door, and before you even have a chance to pull your combat boots on, she swings the bag at your head containing what should have been some fine dining for you and the missus, but now have cat food in it for Mr. Tickles. How can this be?
Your intentions were right on. It was such fun spraying the ex president’s effigy with a barrage of gunfire, unseen since the battle of Iwo Jima. Never realizing as you collected up the thoroughly masticated pigeon parts, looking as if they went through a Cuisinart, that bag now looks so silly in her hands, you look away.
How did this happen?
You stare back at her confused, you wondering why is life so unfair. Surely, the nice man with the tattoo that read KILLER on his bicep would not have steered you wrong. After all it is a reputable downtown gun store surely he, was telling the truth when he sold it to you. You spent all afternoon reliving his old combat stories from Iraq, and it was all in good fun. He said it was the best weapon for anything you might come across during an apocalypse. Your only decision was whether to get it in flat black or desert storm beige. Eventually settling on the black, after Killer told you how he used it to mow down that Taliban hooch.
Back to Reality
I know this may come as a surprise to some of you preppers out there, and perhaps this way of thinking, does go against every John Wayne moving ever made, but BIGGER AIN”T ALWAYS BETTER when it comes to food gathering…
Now lets look at the affordability factor of your rifle of choice. I assume there is a budget in mind, unless you are independently wealthy. When it comes to basic surplus military rifles and there are plenty around nowadays. Even the low-end sporting models of rifles are cheap enough to buy if you are not seeking brand new.
They are in pretty much the same price range with either choice of low-end sporting model or surplus bolt action. A novice prepper can certainly pick up any one of the older 30 calibres like a Lee-Enfield, or a 30-06 US, or even a 30 calibre Garand or some NATO rifle in the 7.62 range. Getting any post WWI or WWII surplus rifles easily, they run under $400 bucks nowadays but check, the rifling to be sure they are not bagged-out. You might want to find some reproductions instead, like brand-new copies as long as the fact that they are not being made in American does not bother you.
They are new, and right out of the box, or maybe something cheaper like a .22 rifle. Perhaps an old used Coey or Martin .22 calibre for under $250 bucks. Therefore, if this fits into your price range we still are on the right track.
Now lets consider ammo, and availability here and the cost of ammunition. The cost of ammo and availability after such an end of the world collapse will most likely begin to rise soon after it happens, due to supply and demand. Some of the most popular calibres out there from North America are according to Sales in 2014 by Federal Ammunitions are as follows:
In order of popularity;
- .223 Remington/5.56mm NATO
- .308 Winchester/7.62x51mm NATO
- .30-’06 Springfield
- .30-30 Winchester
- .270 Winchester
- .243 Winchester
- .300 Winchester Magnum
- 7mm Remington Magnum
- .300 Winchester Short Magnum
- .22-250 Remington
(I cannot help noticing that they do not list 22 Long Rifle here at all.)
Reloading your own Ammunition
Now, a true gun enthusiast, one that reloads his or her own ammunition might not care about availability after a collapse. Reloading can save plenty of dough if you shoot plenty of targets. Though I am sure if you are an avid shooter, you have probably stopped reading this article several paragraphs ago, with the pigeon story, and so be it. However, I bet this rant will still give even an avid gun enthusiast something to consider when choosing another rifle for their bugout bag.
Either way, if you are still are reading, then great, nice to still have you here. I must assume that if you are that novice, and you do not have a thousand dollars worth of reloading equipment in your bugout bag, and you do not make your own gunpowder, and food is still a major consideration for your rifle of choice. Then we have a different situation here, and not the same as the old time veteran survivalist, or well-heeled prepper finds himself or herself in.
For instance, the equipment alone for reloading your own ammo, can run you minimally, as much, if not more then the rifle that you just purchased. So, do not forget for a minute that the “reloader-guy” the prepper with everything might be better off, as he needs some of those tiny little projectiles we call bullets and a lot of new primers as well as a pound or two of smokeless powder to reload that ammo he or she makes for their sheer enjoyment.
Unless, you are SO SKILLED, you can make your own modern smokeless gunpowder, and cast your own bullets from old car batteries or the chimney lead off the neighbour’s house. So, if you can’t, and I recommend you do NOT try this yourself by the way, without some guidance. If you do not know how to make gunpowder already, and you still want to learn, then watch some one else first, because at best, it will not light and at worst, it will light when you do not want it to, and there goes the damage deposit.
Tried and True Black Powder
Perhaps soon I will write an article about homemade black powder for the future for you guys, but not now.
Black powder is one thing, and a black powder rifles are certainly a fine consideration as an alternative weapon for when things get scarce. Like ammunition, and factory made bullets. A smooth bore black powder gun with a flintlock can be used any old day, with just a lead ball or shot, even just about anything that fits inside it in a pinch will do. However, either way, black powder is relatively easy to make at home, unlike smokeless powder. So read, read , read before trying it.
Yet, this is not the original question is it? The original question was what is the best prepper RIFLE.
In short, and in my humble opinion since I am the one writing this article, is this. What is the best calibre for all around use?
Here is my honest opinion, be it as it may…
First, what makes me an expert on this you ask? Well nothing really, I guess. I have not lived through an apocalypse or even killed any zombie hordes, or even lived through an economic collapse, great enough to cause a long-term food shortage. Nevertheless, I have lived in some very rural areas of wilderness; where it was necessary to hunt or gather food for a living.
Taking from the wild surroundings, and preparing it each fall for the winter, usually just before freeze up. I have also, made black powder at home, and reload my own match grade ammunition for my rifles. I own half a dozen rifles and several shotguns, as well as many handguns too. I have been a hunter and a trapper all my life, and have lived well off the land, at least for my meager 53 years. So the answer finally, what is my favourite calibre of rifle you ask…. Drum roll please…
The .22 Long Rifles, TA-Daaaa…
I can almost hear the crickets and groans of disappointment from the readers, but here’s why I chose this often over looked rifle:
To begin with, it is reasonably priced. Most .22s can be picked up used for less then $200.00 bucks. Certainly, that is within our budget. The ammo is readily available anywhere in the world. You will find it from the far north all the way to the tips of the Dark Continents. It is certainly the cheapest and no less available then any other ammo, due to the recent shortages in North America. I will not get into that right now. DHS might be hogging it I guess.
Next, it is the least expensive per round to buy of any kind, and averages about .05 cents a cartridge, if you buy bulk. That means you can buy as many of the tiny little buggers as you can afford, and no reloading required. This calibre is very versatile, and works across a wide range of practical hunting applications. Birds, small game, varmints, and yes in a pinch even larger non-lethal game animals such as small deer and feral pigs. You might even be able to afford one that takes .22 magnum and .22 long rifle cartridges. (MY WAIVER IS: Although using small calibre on large game is immoral and illegal in most any country. And I would only endorse it in a dire situation of a family starving.)
Nevertheless, all of these aforementioned tasty critters are potential food for the prepper’s pot. Lets face it, if we look back to the original list of five basic human needs. Food is definitely way up there for any prepper. The .22 rifles can still be used for a self-defense too. No, it will not cut a zombie in half with one shot, but it is small enough to be used by everyone in your family. That means Mom as well as the kids are not going to be afraid to pull the trigger when the time comes. Another bonus is its power; it is certainly enough to easily drop a pigeon or two at the park, pecking around those dirty hypodermic syringes in the grass.
Well, let us see does the mighty, .22 rifle also has a fair shooting range for its tiny size, but yes it does, and it still packs a punch too. Its able to kill small game out to 200 yards on a good day. Unfortunately, the arch of this tiny calibre resembles more of a rainbow then a straight line, at that distance. However, anyone who has shot gophers on the back forty, or squirrels out of some tall trees will attest to being able to do it with ease.
The newer .17 HMR arguments
I am not going to debate the .17 HMR caliber’s velocity with anyone here or argue stats with those who own these rifles. They are not common enough in most areas and therefore I have ruled them out, and will not being considered them here for that reason. Therefore, the champion and still my choice for best rifle for a prepper in my honest opinion one that you can and should be able to use to feed the family everyday, the .22 long rifle. Because, lets face it that is the number one consideration in any prepping situation, feed the spouse and kiddies.
My Opinion about defense
Therefore, in my now frequently over stated and forever contradictory humble opinion, I will say this one and salient fact. Unless you are a trained warrior and hanging around with a platoon of other trained warriors, you are probably NOT going to be fending off an onslaught of brain eating zombies by yourself. Just you and the missus in some twisted version of the Last stand at the Alamo you firing away and the kids and Mom reloading your M-60 while you swap it out for the AK-47 you got thrown in at “Big Bob’s Battle Emporium”, I don’t think so.
However, WHAT you most likely ARE GOING to be doing, is trying to survive by being stealthy, using those evasion apache ambush tactics from that Calvary survival book of 1865. (Or like us lay persons, you will be using the reliable running away tactic, with you and your kid’s arms pin wheeling as Mom tries to keep up.)
Whatever way you shake it, the zombie hordes are not getting you, and your family. They duck into a drive through car wash, and the kids shake them using those revolving doors at derelict shopping mall. Then, you and your love ones quietly bugger off to somewhere safer, and with less hostile horizons about you. Go now, get out, ride off into that sunset, well past the blazing apocalyptic burning city skyline, and get the hell out of dodge people.
Although most likely you will still find that there are not tasty cakes hanging from the branches of trees out there, and the term out in the woods means just that out in the woods. The inevitable fact is this, these .22 rifles are relatively light, they’re cheap, they shoot well, and they are easier to run with when zombies are chasing you, and just fine for shooting grey squirrels, or red, or what ever you prefer; from out of that pine tree at 50 yards.
What more could a prepper possibly want, and when you get to the woods, in any event, you and your .22 rifles, are going to be the best of friends. Because it is the best tool for the job, even the tiniest creatures, DO taste far better then nothing at all.
What do we have so far fellow preppers?
How about another list of the Pros and Cons of a .22 rifle. Just before I conclude this:
|Pros for .22 Rifle||Cons against the .22||Neither good nor bad|
|Ammo is cheap can buy 500 hundred rounds at Wal-Mart for less then $25/ box
Great for small game and you won’t need to pick pellets out of your ducks.
The whole family can shoot it with ease.
Its lightweight makes it easy to carry, for long distances.
Very common calibre ammunition, in any country.
Cheaper for shooting fish in a barrel.
|Sorry won’t cut a brain eating zombie in half with one shot, but can kill a pigeon.
Not recommended for large game or zombies for that matter.
Not very good for long range shooting.
Not very intimidating to the rioters looters, and crack heads, until you shoot a few, first.
Not ideal in ever situation but it comes close, you can still kill a zombie if you have to (but you may have to beat him with it too).
|Most big calibre rifles are just more expensive then a .22 rifle.
If you run out of ammo, both are just an ergonomically designed club, and quite useless.
Both types will kill large animals at point blank range. (Do not try this with a .22 on a Grizzly bear though.)
Guns aren’t dangerous Zombies with guns are…
I know I have not convinced everyone with my back woods logic. Nevertheless, I hope that I raised some valid points here, and entertain a few of you a little bit any way. I’m an avid outdoorsman, I honestly hunt for my own food, and eat what I kill, I always feel munch better prepared to bag some game in the short term with 500 hundred rounds of .22 in my survival bag, and a decent .22 rifle, then having a box of twenty or so 308 rounds and a deer rifle only.
Your chances of finding a meal that very day is far better with a rim fire then seeing a big game animal the first day out. Besides a .22 shot from a tree stand, only twenty feet above the game (Especially a magnum), and right at the old brain pan, is going to kill any small deer or pig, even if unethical or illegal. I contest, those who disagree that with a starving family at home, this gives you that right.
I could be wrong… probably am.
I was never very good at following rules; when my family is hungry, I hunt:
The Practical prepper Jack Woods
The EMP Threat: Nuclear and Man-Made Bobby Akart “Prepping For Tomorrow” On this week’s episode of the Prepping for Tomorrow program, Bestselling Author Bobby Akart, will begin a two part series on the threats our nation faces from an EMP: Electromagnetic Pulse. Bobby’s poignant analysis of the EMP threat has achieved #1 Bestseller rankings on Amazon … Continue reading The EMP Threat: Nuclear and Man-Made
If you’re a gun owner with young children, then at some point you’ve faced a dilemma: You want easy access to your gun in case of a home invasion, but you don’t want to just leave it lying out where your kids can find it. Even if you’ve taught them gun safety, there’s still the […]
Backup Iron Sights probably got their start by doing absolutely nothing when an optic was bolted onto a rifle that came from the factory with irons. But when modern sporting rifles (or whatever silly name the AR15 is being force-rebranded as these days) irons became an deliberate option. BUS or back up sights (whether iron or not) appeared as conventional sights left in place, as well as sighting tools such as notches and even dedicated sight-like things bolted onto scopes, red dots and anything else someone somewhere thinks might fail.
Where the problem really started is with the quality, cost and effectiveness of our current crop of backup sights. The BUS concept was just too great to ignore in the highly unlikely event that a battery would die four years too soon, or amazingly strong optics in cushioned metal tubes might crack. Or that drop out of a helicopter knocks your scope out of alignment but leaves the rest of your gun safe to operate. In other words, people wanted to use the fabulous iron sights as well as their optics extracting the benefits from both.
The odd thing about the Magpul MBUS Pro Offset Iron Sights are that they are not just for backup anymore. In fact the term “backup” has been relegated to just a single letter in the MBUS trademark, and never mentioned again. By offsetting the sights, they work fine even with a heavy optic running on the top rail. In fact, they don’t just back up the optic, they supplement it by being just as effective doing their job as a 3-9x scope. And the offset aspect of these offset sights allows a natural platform for iron sighting with a slight twist of the gun. Forty-five degrees to be exact. So perhaps a MOSS (Magpul Offset Supplemental Sights) trademark is in order?
The rear Magpul MBUS Pro Offset Iron Sight weighs in at about two ounces flat, and is priced at $105. It has two apertures just like the other MBUS sights, one 0.07 inches in diameter and another almost three times larger at 0.19 inches. The front Magpul MBUS Pro Offset Iron Sight weighs just two tenths of an ounce more but costs twenty bucks less at $85. Both occupy about two inches of rail space when stowed
Twice the Fun
BUIS or Back Up Iron Sights are a staple to any AR user who employs electronic or magnifying optics. Until recently, the main concept behind BUIS was far more the BU than the IS. But with the Magpul MBUS Offset Sights, the Iron Sight aspect gets 24/7 attention, and not just when the optic goes down which happens…like never.
In fact, the Magpul MBUS Offset Sights offer an additional level of sighting ability given that they allow for zero to 100 meter sighting capabilities in 100% addition to whatever optic is above the receiver. In other words, you have two complete and independent rifle sighting solutions. One works close up and the other for whatever the glass on your rifle frame is best suited for.
As Magpul was busy finding bolt-on aiming solutions, they were also listening to customers. And one of the interesting requests from actual users was for a smaller front sight pin allowing better accuracy….well, rather better precision if we want to split etymological hairs…which we do. For the record, accuracy is how close you are to the bullseye. Precision is group size.
Related: Magpul MBUS Pro Sights Review
The MBUS Pro Enhanced Front Sight Post, or (MBUSEFSP?) is a screw-in replacement to the regular MBUS Pro and MBUS Pro Offset front sights. The Enhanced post is a match-grade scant 0.04 inches wide, or a full 0.02 inches narrower than the standard post. While talking in hundredths of an inch doesn’t seem like much, it makes big difference in the real world. For most, the MOE 0.06” front post is plenty small. But for those who anticipate more a 50 or 100 meter use of the backup or offset sights, then the the enhanced post is an excellent option, and well worth the paltry ten bucks Magpul asks for it. But wait, there’s more. Since the post does not rotate as you adjust the elevation like the old A2 front sights did, you can physically rotate the post 90 degrees and wa-la! You now have your thicker 0.06 post painting your target just like old times.
The Magpul MBUS Offset Sights have the same look and feel of the regular MBUS Pro sights including the non-locked positioning, solid detents at flat and deployed, and the same easy tool-less adjustment front and rear. All the MBUS Pro sights are made of case-hardened steel and finished with Melonite QPQ™ which is just a big fancy way of saying that one of the final finishing steps uses a quench-polish-quench nitrocarburizing case hardening process.
Related: Magpul PMAG D-60 Ammo Drum Review
The gamut of BUIS materials runs from plastic, to polymer, to aluminum, to basic steel, to hardened steel. And I assume that titanium is not far behind, but with a price tag halfway to four figures. The material of a back up sight is not inconsequential. Nor is the build quality. Ignoring the constant usefulness of the Magpul MBUS Offset Sights for a moment, let’s consider some scenarios where you really need back up iron sights. If running a magnifying optic, the two main reasons you need back up sights (ignoring the offset, remember), is when you optic is broken or knocked too far off zero. In both cases there is a good chance the backup sights also experienced the turmoil that killed the optic.
If a 1x electronic optic is the main player in your sighting system, the same two maladies as with the magnifying optic are still real, as well as an electronics failure or dead battery. In all cases, the backup sights need to be robust enough to take some shots without complaining. Otherwise they are little more than rail candy.
What’s The Catch?
Being offset sights, the mounting position cannot be directly under the sight since there is usually nothing under the sight 45 degree off vertical. Therefore the sight works best when clamped to a rail in the 12 o’clock position. Usually never a problem on the muzzle end of the long gun, but it can present a quandary for some billet uppers (rather than forged), and non-GI issue charging handles like those with ambidextrous controls. On one of my testing carbine-length platforms, the rear Magpul MBUS Offset Sight conflicted with my Raptor charging handle.
For proper operation I would need to either swap out the Raptor for a lower profile handle, or move the rear Offset sight further forward. But it just got more stinky from there. The offset sight could not overcome my billet forward assist/case deflector, and I certainly did not want it hanging out above my ejection port. Soon I had the rear sight forward of my Aimpoint Micro T1. Now I was able to employ only half the possible sight radius, and the peep hole was anything but quick on target. I had to rethink the point of back up sights, and especially offset ones that I fully intended on using in addition to my optic but not a enhanced charging handle.
Also Read: Magpul Armorer’s Wrench Review
Another issue I encountered is that my rifle-length AR has Magpul furniture with no flat top up front. The rear sight behaved itself this time, but there was no easy solution to mount the front sight. I almost added a inch-long Magpul rail the top of my handguard, but that would put the sight up half an inch and out of reach of the rear sight. So for now, that rifle will have to wait.
To explore the right/left handedness of the Magpul MBUS Offset Sights I mounted them correctly but held the rifle left-handed. I also mounted them backwards on the left side of the rifle for muscle-memory comparison. Left handed shooting is a mirror of right handedness. Shoulders are switched. Hands are reversed. And barring backwards eye-dominance, everything else is the same. Other than non-ambidextrous fire controls, the operation of the gun is symmetrical.
Which means the right-hand preference of the Magpul MBUS Offset Sights requires a slightly unnatural counter-rotation of the rifle to engage the sights with the eye. Instead of the trigger-side elbow rolling away from the body, the trigger arm must fold under the rifle leading to a counterintuitive twist where holding the rifle still is a new skill to be mastered. I’m not sure the market for left-handed Magpul MBUS Offset Sights is deep enough for Magpul to take the financial plunge, but it would be a nice offering to our often neglected left-handed brethren.
The weight and cost of the Magpul MBUS Pro Offset Iron Sights are commiserate with others in this space. So what does Magpul have to offer that the other options don’t? Three things immediately come to mind. First, the performance of the Magpul MBUS Pro Offset Iron Sights is exceptional and does exactly what it needs to do. Second, the low weight, low profile sights become almost invisible when you don’t want them active. And third, being Magpul offspring, they have a proven warranty and exceptional customer service to back up their products even when your backup is a primary.
All Photos by Doc Montana
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With more and more states (fourteen, per Wikipedia – not counting Puerto Rico) giving the green light to some form of “Constitutional Carry” – that is, carrying a legal concealed firearm without a state-issued permit – citizens have been heading to gun shops and training facilities in droves to enable themselves to exercise their right to defend themselves. Compact, concealable handguns are flying off the shelves, handgun training courses are filling up as people want to refine their skills and learn laws. People putting their freedoms to use is a wonderful thing.
However, many of these people are complete newbies to the wide world of concealed carry – some of them have never fired a gun before. It’s an interesting mish-mash of emotions carrying a firearm that nobody else knows you have – elation, invincibility, nobility, trepidation, sometimes outright fear. It’s something you have to experience yourself before you can fully understand. Some of that fear comes from the fact that this new-fangled power is manifesting itself via a whole new experience for a gun owner: What the hell is the best way to do this?
I’ve been carrying concealed handguns for 18 years. I don’t consider myself a newbie at concealed carry anymore, but I certainly haven’t done it all and i don’t consider myself an ”expert”. Rather, I’ve found a couple methods of carry that work for me, and I rarely stray from them. But the purpose of this article isn’t to debate gear, technique, or methodology – I’d just like to tell people who are just starting out in concealed carry a few things that I wish I’d known when starting out. There are probably millions of articles out there that will help you find the best carry pistol or holster or ammo; I’d just like to share what I’ve learned from my 18 years of carrying a hidden gun. Let’s get started with the most important one to accept.
1. It’s Not Easy & It Sucks
Once you get over the rush and sheer amazement that you’re carrying a concealed handgun, reality sets in. It’s uncomfortable. It’s a hassle. You’re constantly paranoid that your gun is printing and some kid will point at you and scream, “MOMMY! HE HAS A GUN!”. Spare ammo is never easy to carry unless it’s on a belt-mounted pouch that prints worse than the holstered gun. That super expensive hybrid leather/kydex rig that everyone online raved about? It doesn’t fit your body type and pinches and chafes. So does the one you bought to replace it. Handgun grip panels rub, wear through, and catch on clothing, not to mention that custom grip stippling job you HAD to have will treat your love handle like a cheese grater. You bend over and oops, your shirt hikes up and there’s your gun for everyone to see.
Also Read: 8 Tips For Flying with a Firearm
You sit down and the handgun goes “THUNK” against the seat and people look at you funny. Your ankle holster slips and rotates around your leg and allows dirt and crud into your gun. Your guns get rusty from being close to your sweaty body. You have to dress appropriately to cover the gun – no tight fitting T-shirts! You have to stop at the post office? Gotta take the gun off. You go to your favorite burger place and notice that they just posted “no guns allowed”? Gotta walk back to the car and secure the pistol, or find a new place to eat (recommended). Picking your kid up from school? Oops, guns are a huge No-No there, gotta leave the gun at home. If your holster doesn’t clip or snap on, you have to take your belt off, pull the gun off the belt, and run your belt back through the loops. Carrying concealed is a thousand tiny hassles that conglomerate into one big pain in the ass. Luckily, time and experience (and a lot of money) will help you work through the gear and body location issues, making you more comfortable – but it’s something that can only be worked out over an extended period of time carrying. But have no fear: once you have everything worked out, it still sucks. Anyone who says differently is probably lying or selling something.
2. Stop Fidgeting & Carry On
You have a gun on, and like we just discovered in the previous paragraphs, it’s uncomfortable and not in the right spot. (Even just a quarter inch difference in placement can make a huge difference in comfort. No, really.) You keep trying to adjust, or maybe you’re nervous about the gun printing, so you constantly screw with the gun and holster and attempt adjustments while you’re in public. Here’s a tip from your buddy Drew: KNOCK IT OFF. Run-of-the-mill people aren’t geared to analyze bumps and lumps sticking out of people’s shirts. I’ve walked around wearing full-sized pistols obviously printing under sweatshirts, but nobody stole a second glance. If you’re worried someone will see it, dress differently. If it’s uncomfortable, deal with it, or go into a restroom where you have privacy, and re-adjust your rig until you are comfortable. By fiddling with your gun nobody can see, they’re seeing you act suspicious with something hidden under your shirt – and THAT will raise alarms.
3. Get a Good Holster
When looking for gear, it’s all about what you like. This is a very personal matter; no one holster fits everyone’s body. We don’t need to debate inside the waistband carry vs. outside the waistband, or 4 o’clock carry vs. appendix carry, leather vs. kydex, blah blah blah. The only requirement I personally would recommend is that the holster completely covers the triggerguard, for safety. Go to a good, high-end local shop (avoid the big box stores – chances are excellent anyone there won’t know a good holster from a New Balance sneaker) and ask to try different holsters. Bring your pistol with you, unloaded, in a locked carrying box.
Ask to try the different holsters out with your pistol. Take your time, figure out what you like. Then spend the money and don’t look back. A good holster is worth its weight in gold, and you two will become best friends…so don’t go cheap. Expect to spend $60-100 on a good rig – and don’t buy cheap “universal” holsters, dammit. They’re awful. So are SERPA holsters. There, I said it.
4. Get a Good Belt
In my eyes and experience, a good belt is just as, if not maybe a bit more, important than your holster. You need a dedicated gunbelt. They are thicker, wider, and reinforced to hold the holster and its precious cargo close in to your body and not let it shift around. And when you do draw, the belt ensures the holster stays fixed with your body, and not going for a joyride with the pistol. I used to pay no mind to my belt and just used cheapo Wal-Mart belts – until one day, I was practicing drawing from concealment and the belt actually broke (more like ripped) out of the buckle, and I presented a holstered gun with a trailing broken belt to the target. Oops.
Related: Escape & Evasion Gun Belt Review
The belt is the heart and soul of your concealed carry setup, so get a damned good one. I know I said that I wouldn’t debate gear, but the new Magpul Tejas “El Original” gun belt is unbelievably comfortable and rugged – and it’s a classic design; I wear mine every day in a business casual work environment. If you’re looking for a place to start, you can’t get any better than the Magpul offering. A good belt will run you another $60-100 or so.
5. The Gun You Have When You Need It Is The Gun You Have
This one probably needs to be explained, but it’s a simple concept: if you KNEW you were going to be in a gunfight today and you couldn’t bring a long gun, what handgun would you want with you? Exactly – the biggest, baddest lead-slinger on the block that you knew you could shoot effectively, had a large magazine capacity in an effective caliber, with excellent sights, probably a weapon-mounted light, and spare mags, right? Right. Well, part of the concealed carrying mindset is that you have to know that there is always a possibility you will get in a gunfight today. To this end, I am positively baffled when people tell me they carry a small .22 derringer or a tiny single-stack .380 as their everyday carry (EDC) gun.
Now, I fully understand the limits and the inherent Catch-22 of concealed carry – the smaller the gun, the easier it is to carry. The easier the gun is to carry, the more likely it is that you’ll have it on your person. The gun you have on your person is the one you’ll be defending your life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness with. Yes, full-sized guns are a pain to carry and conceal, especially in hot summer months – but newer subcompact variants of full-sized pistols are still effective, and can usually use the magazines, holsters, etc., from their bigger brothers. Just remember that the the threat of multiple badguys who are also armed is always likely, and plan accordingly. It’s only your life we’re talking about here, after all.
6. Carry Spare Ammunition
This is another convenience issue: it’s always a pain to carry spare ammo. Belt-mounted mag pouches invariably show through clothing, usually worse than a smallish pistol in a good holster. Having a spare magazine or speedloader in your pocket is annoying too, as they flop and move around and they are never in the orientation you need/want them in. But if you’re ever, God forbid, in a situation where you need to deploy that firearm you carry, I’m guessing you could never have enough ammunition. If your gun runs dry and your opponent(s) is/are still shooting, you’d better hope your life insurance plan is paid up and you told your wife you loved her when you left.
Related: Rothco Concealed Carry Jacket Review
To make things easier, you can carry filler items in your pocket to keep your magazine oriented properly, or try something like the Raven Concealment ModuLoader Pocket Shield, a neat rig you can mount mag pouches to and put the whole works in your pocket. It stops magazine printing and keeps the magazine wight where you need it. Or, you can always run a belt-mounted mag pouch and dress to conceal. Just have spare ammo with you.
Also, know how your ammunition performs. Full metal jacket ammunition will likely over penetrate and can hit bystanders. Carry suitable defense ammunition, and no hand-loaded ammunition. You don’t need that round you carefully crafted for accuracy, power, and reliability to be misconstrued as a “deadly mankiller”.
7. Know When To Hold Them
Just because you have the pistol on your person, there is no rule that says you HAVE to use it. The very best way to avoid being shot is to not get into gunfights. Your brain is a much more powerful weapon than any gun you can carry; if you see or are in a situation developing with escalating threat, get the hell out and call the police. There is zero shame in leaving when things get ugly. As a matter of fact, in many locales – including my home state of Maine – you have a duty to deescalate and/or leave if you can, and lethal force is only given the blessing if you did everything you possibly could to disengage a threat and evacuate. If you flipped the bird to the biker gang that cut you off and as a consequence, a fight develops to the point where you had to use a firearm to save your life, you can expect to spend a healthy chunk of that life behind bars. Take a deep breath, walk away. Be smart enough to keep yourself out of situations and places where you are forced to use your firearm. It’s common sense: pride and braggadocio will get you or others killed, while having a head on your shoulders will keep you out of trouble.
8. Carry a Less Than Lethal Deterrent
Not every defense situation calls for the nuclear option. Giving a belligerent drunk or an aggressive dog a heady blast of pepper spray in the kisser and walking away is a lot easier on your lifestyle than trying to explain to the judge why you had to empty the magazine into some family’s pet Labrador that got loose and jumped at you aggressively. Also, if you attempt less-than-lethal deterrents and they don’t stop the threat, requiring you to then have to default to the concealed gun, a jury will definitely see that you tried other options before having to use lethal force as a last resort. If you’re already carrying more gear on your belt than Batman, a Kubaton or OC pepper spray isn’t going to be an issue.
Related: Timbuk2 Aviator Backpack Review
As an added bonus, it is generally not illegal to carry pepper spray or similar non-lethal deterrents in areas where you can’t carry firearms. So if you have to take the pistol off to go into a movie theater that’s posted as “no firearms”, you can still have a measure of protection on your person.
9. Nobody Should Know You have a Firearm Until It’s Time To Start Shooting
I agree with the political fundamentals and theory behind open carrying a gun; that is, having the gun exposed for everyone to see. Many people open carry because they CAN, dammit, and that’s fine with me. However, all I can think of when I see someone open carrying is, “well, there’s the first target”. If nobody knows you have a concealed firearm, you have a definite and absolute tactical advantage you can press if needed. In my opinion, if anyone knows you have a gun, it should only be because you have cleared leather to engage a target, and that trigger is getting pulled because you perceive your life or others’ lives to be in danger from your target. If you’re in a heated argument or other ugly situation, and you think “brandishing” (showing off) the gun will be a deterrent to further crime, well, you just gave up every advantage you had. You’d better re-read that “know when to hold ‘em, know when to fold ‘em” paragraph again.
10. Know The Legal System
Unless you just used a firearm in a righteous self defense shooting right in front of four honest cops, a judge, and The Pope and they all collaborate your story, you will likely be treated like a criminal at the outset. Once first responders show up, you will be quickly and probably roughly disarmed and handcuffed. Remember, law enforcement officers don’t know what happened here – they are responding to a person shooting another person. You can help your cause by having the handgun holstered and unloaded (if the threat is perceived to be gone) and your hands in the air when law enforcement shows up; you don’t want responding officers to see you with a gun standing over a body. Saying something along the lines of “I was afraid for my life and I used my firearm in self defense.
I would like my lawyer” and then saying nothing more until a lawyer shows up is probably a good idea (though I’m not a lawyer and I do not profess to be; talk to a lawyer, KNOW YOUR LAWS before you even strap on that holster. They will differ!) You will likely be a mental and physical basketcase, and will need time to sort out in your own head and cope with what happened before you give statements (with a lawyer present). Remember: every American is guaranteed the right of due process before a sentence is handed down – and you just were a judge, jury, and possibly an executioner in one fell swoop. You will likely be arrested, you will likely go to jail, you most certainly will stand trial where you will have to prove your innocence and your story. And if a judge deems your situation a righteous shooting in a criminal trial and dismisses the case, just remember that you will probably have to face a civil trial, especially if your assailant had a family. You have an excellent chance to possibly lose that civil trial.
Yes, you just defended your life or the lives of others, but you still could be found guilty of manslaughter or murder down the road because you had to deny someone their life, limbs, happiness to save your own. This is the way it is; and it’s definitely an unsavory reality of carrying a concealed firearm. Not everything is black and white, cut and dried, Cowboys and Indians. You will be alive, but you may lose everything to save your life.
There are many great articles online about what happens after you have to use a firearm in self defense. This one is excellent, and I would definitely read this article by the US Concealed Carry Association. I would consider these articles to be essential prerequisites to carrying concealed.
Wrapping It Up
One of the best parts about carrying concealed is that in terms of technique, gear, and mindset, you only improve with experience. You try things that work, ditch things that don’t. It’s a very personal experience, and most of it can only be learned by jumping in with both feet and giving it a go. However, the tips listed above are definitely things that I’ve learned along the way that I wish I’d known when I started carrying a concealed handgun.
So if you’ve been debating carrying a concealed firearm to defend yourself, try it out – just be sure to take training courses – not just in firearms handling and safety, but in law. Know the consequences of using your firearm. Research, research, research, then go wear out holsters and figure out what works best for you. I sincerely hope that none of us ever have to use a firearm in self defense, but if you do, I hope that your preparation, knowledge, and mindset will keep you from being a victim – before and after drawing that concealed gun. Did I miss anything? Do you have anything to add to the list? Sound off in the comments below!
This article is for informational purposes only. Consult local & state laws before you do anything.
All Photos By Drew
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Image this; you’re in a large department store in the shopping mall with your family on a busy Saturday. Suddenly, without warning, you hear the unmistakable sound of an AK-47
For many people, self-defense after a disaster is a frightening topic. It’s much more fun to think about food, water, survival gadgets, and so forth. But the reality is that your chance of being attacked, robbed, or worse after the SHTF will be significantly higher than it was before. People will be desperate, so you […]
Many of us would rather build our own AR-15. It can be much cheaper, depending on the parts, as well as customizing it to our own specifications. Then there are those of us who want to, but have no idea where to begin. So we hit YouTube and Google for research.
Wheeler Engineering’s “AR-15 Armorer’s Essentials Kit” contains several of the tools needed for building an AR-15. In this video OIFEagle will unbox the kit and discuss what tools you can expect to see, and why the kit grabbed his attention. He goes into detail about each tool that you need, and even some you might not know you need, what their function is, as well as the cost.
He purchased his kit for $89.99 at SportsmansGuide.com. (Item Number: WX2-294372) He also encourages people to shop around for a better price; however that is the cheapest he found.
OIFEagle is a U.S. Army Officer, Gentleman, and Veteran of Operation Iraqi Freedom. (OIF) He is a Free-thinking Conservative, Christian, Husband, and Father. He is also currently stationed at Fort Bragg, NC.
The main purpose of his video blog is to discuss politics, firearms, gunsmithing, and preparations for the zombie apocalypse.
Video By OIFEagle
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Article by American Preppers Network
Guns are mechanical machines. Machines that are designed and crafted by human hands, so we know they can fail, they can break and they can malfunction. Regardless of how well
The post How to Deal With The Most Common Handgun Malfunctions? appeared first on Ask a Prepper.
Brandon Burroughs from Infidel Anvilworks Highlander “Survival & Tech Preps” On this show we have a special guest, Brandon Burroughs from Infidel Anvilworks. Brandon has been a guest on 7P’s of Survival show and recently he came into some forging materials and wanted to start his own forge. Tonight he will be talking about his passion and … Continue reading Brandon Burroughs from Infidel Anvilworks!
So I’d just like to come right out at the outset of this review and state that Talon Grips have probably provided the most satisfaction-per-dollar of any of the firearms modifications I’ve tried in recent memory. They are quite inexpensive, easy to install, non-permanent, and 100% effective at the specific improvement they offer. They’re just damn cool too. All pros, no cons. This will probably be a short review, now that I think about it.
A Cut Above
If you read my article “12 Great Preps for Under $30” you’ll remember that I’d listed stick-on grip tape as a great buy, due to the fact that you could buy it in strips at cut it to any desired shape, to add texture and “grippyness” to any item that needed it. Specific examples are: handgun and rifle grips, cellphones and cellphone cases, knife handles, etc.
Talon Grips – hailing from Steamboat Springs, Colorado, takes that idea and go one step farther, providing laser-cut application-specific pre-made grip tape sections. With over 200 different designs available from 22 different firearms manufacturers, it’s a safe bet that there is a patented wrap-around pattern that fits your exact gun. Talon Grips also offers a bewildering array of stick-on grips for smartphones, rifle grips, shotgun fore ends, extended magazines, tasers…even a stick-on bottom coaster pad for YETI Rambler travel mugs.
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Talon Grips got their start back in 2009 when a duty Glock 21 was fitted with a set of grip panels made from skateboard tape. Others in the department had to have their Glocks likewise upgraded. Soon thereafter, sales on eBay started taking off, and more designs were developed – first more Glock models came around, then Springfield XD grips, all cut by hand from rolls of skateboard tape. Soon they were farming out the product to a local die cutter for mass production, and in 2011 a proprietary rubber material was developed specifically for firearm grip application, and a laser cutter was purchased to allow for much more intricate designs. In 2012, a patent was received for the one-piece wrap-around die-cut grip design Talon Grips had perfected. The sky has been the limit for Talon Grips since then, and this 100% Designed- and Made-In-USA product has been taking the firearms world by storm. Law Enforcement, competition shooters, military operators, and the civilian market all have flocked to this easy to install, effective modification.
The design is deceptively simple in theory, yet intricate in execution. Talon Grips are comprised of one-piece wrap-around laser-cut (you can see the scorch marks on the white peel-off grip backing when you get the grips) stick-on grip panels that utilize an adhesive that has been formulated to stick to guns (especially polymer) like crazy, yet is (relatively) easy to remove with no gluey residue remaining behind. The panels are notched, relieved, and contoured to look like they grew on the gun; all of the sets I got had cutouts for existing logos, reliefs for thumb rests, and cut-outs for existing terrain on the gun. So, like I said: while these are very simple, there has been a lot of time spent designing the grips to fit perfectly…and fit perfectly they absolutely do.
Get A Grip!
The grip material is offered in two configurations: granular (feels like fine 150 or 220 grit sandpaper) and textured rubber, with both makeups being very thin – less than ½ millimeter thick – for no added bulk to the gun.
The granular material is the epitome of traction for those who need 100% hold on their gun no matter what the conditions – sweat, rain, mud, blood. The aggressiveness of the grip has a trade off if you wear your gun concealed: the grain of the grip would be awful rubbing against your skin on an inside-the-waistband holster, and I imagine it would fray or even wear its way through clothing given enough time and movement. But, if you have a belt gun that rides in a holster on the outside of your body (think uniformed law enforcement officer), there’s no better way to go if positive handgun retention and grip is what is needed.
The rubber material is textured to provide a pattern a bit like a stippled grip, but the formulation of the rubber is far more tactile and positive than a stippled polymer grip. The rubber grip is far and away the more user-friendly and versatile of the two materials: it won’t harm clothing or skin with contact, but still provides almost a sticky gripping surface for the user to really muckle onto. The only time the grip was anything like compromised was when I submerged the grip module of my test Sig P320 in water. The Talon Grip stayed on the gun just fine, but it had a sort of “squishy” feeling that was definitely odd. However, the valleys of the grip surface allowed water to ooze out, and while it felt weird, the gun wasn’t about to squirt out of my hands. If you’re in a really wet environment frequently, I might lean towards the granular grips. Otherwise, the rubber ones are terrific – and the rubber grips are the ones I personally chose to leave on my Sig.
Talon Grips doesn’t just do handguns – they offer a lot of other cool grips for non-traditional items. I also ordered up a Talon Grip for my Remington 870 home defense shotgun – I’d seen a grip was offered for the Magpul MOE shotgun fore end so I had to try it. I also ordered a wrap-around rubber grip for my work-issued Apple iPhone 6S cellphone.
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The Magpul grip had slots cut into it to allow the MOE fore end’s molded-in ribs to come through the grip, and there were also cut-outs for the Magpul logo. The only issue that I ran into with the Talon Grip for this application was minimal: I had to pull the light and rail off the fore end to get the grip on – and to re-install the rail and light on the fore end means pulling the gun apart to access the inside of the fore end. Not the end of the world for me since I’ve had Remington 870s apart more times than I can count and have all the proper tools, but for the run-of-the-mill gun owner it might be an inconvenience. But the pros definitely outweigh this small malfeasance, because the traction I get on the fore end for fast, aggressive cycling is unparalleled.
The iPhone grip was pretty cool. I pulled the iPhone out of the Magpul Bump Case it had been residing in, cleaned it off with the supplied alcohol wipe, and installed the grip. For clumsy people like me, it felt a touch alarming to have the phone out of a nice protective case, but the positive grip that I now had on the iPhone thanks to the Talon Grip allayed (most of) the anxiety. If you’re someone who doesn’t need a protective phone case but would like more traction on a phone, the Talon Grip is absolutely the ticket. All the cutouts for rocker switches, power button, charger port, and input jack were all precisely placed, and the rubber grip didn’t create any issues slipping the phone in an out of pockets. While it was really great and I used the phone with the Talon Grip for a week or so, I eventually peeled the grip off and let the phone live in the Magpul case again since I drop phones with alarming frequency, and I have a 2-year-old running around that likes glowing devices. That’s not a detraction of the Talon Grip; I just needed the protection over the traction – even though the added traction DID keep me from dropping the phone on numerous occasions.
Getting It On
Installation of the Talon Grips is a breeze if you have any attention to detail and patience – you don’t have to be a gunsmith to get the benefits of the grips – installation is almost dummy-proof. You’ll need the Talon Grips, a hair dryer or heat gun, and (optional) a couple Q-tips and some rubbing alcohol. A full read-through of the included instructions is definitely recommended.
First off, disassemble the gun if you can. You’ll be moving the gun around, pivoting, turning, twisting it to get the best angle to install the grips. Remember, these are a wrap-around design, so at one point, you’ll likely have the gun pointed at yourself or other things that don’t need extra holes. Be smart, take the gun apart.
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Next, we’ll need to clean the application area. Talon Grips provides an alcohol pad to accomplish this; however, I found that the pad didn’t really reach down into my Sig’s existing grip texture that well, so I chose to soak a Q-tip in rubbing alcohol and really get down and dirty with the cleaning. The alcohol will eradicate any gun and/or skin oils that have accumulated on the gun and provide a really positive adhesive surface for the grips. Let the alcohol evaporate fully before moving on.
For handgun grips, you start on the left-hand side of the gun, when viewed as if you were shooting the gun. I did a dry run first, trying out the alignment of everything instead of peeling the backing off and just going for it. Personally, when getting started, I didn’t remove all of the paper backing from the grip at once – I really didn’t want to deal with multiple adhesive surfaces flailing about mid-way through the process, sticking to things other than what I intended them to. I started with just peeling the left-hand grip side and leaving the remainder attached to start – it was easy to pull the backing as you went around the gun.
Using the existing Sig Sauer logo that was on the gun‘s grip, I lightly aligned the Talon Grip on the frame, getting the orientation perfect. I had to pull the grip off once to start again – this didn’t seem to have a detrimental effect on the grip material or the adhesive. But once I got the initial start of the Talon Grip on exactly right, the rest of the installation fell into place. I just rolled the grip around the gun slowly, adjusting each tab where I needed to. The instructions said not to pull or tug, but a small amount of gentle stretching was required on the right-hand side of the grip to get the opposing-side Sig Sauer logo cutout to align properly.
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A little tip from your buddy Drew: don’t press the whole grip down on the left-hand side starter panel when starting out. Be sure to leave the frontstrap side of the grip unattached if possible. I’m telling you this because you’ll find that as you wrap the grip around the gun, you definitely have too much grip for the frontstrap. Don’t cut this off! Peel back the left hand grip slightly, and tuck this excess material underneath the left-hand grip. Then, once you’re happy with the alignment of the whole system, press the Talon Grip grip down firmly to get the adhesive to grab.
After I was happy with the placement of the grip on the guns, I stole my wife’s hair dryer (for the love of God, don’t tell her please) and secreted away to my basement workshop. I set the hair dryer to “low warm” and directed the hot air stream onto the Talon Grip. I took care to keep the hair dryer moving and to not let one area of the grip get too hot – Talon recommends getting the surface about the same temperature as a hot cup of coffee. You could watch the rubberized material almost shrink a little and work its way into grooves and recesses, ensuring the adhesive got a firm grip. Once I was satisfied, I let the gun cool completely and returned the thieved hair dryer to its proper location. Once everything was set up, the Talon Grip was adhered strongly to the gun – definitely in it for the long haul. In the time I’ve had the grips on, no edges have peeled and there has beed zero bubbling or relocation needed – a tribute to a sound design, quality products, and a proper cleaning. As an aside, I might hold off from using the hair dryer on Talon Grips that are applied to electronics – I didn’t use it on the iPhone, and the grip stayed on just fine.
Related: Review Windham Weaponry AR-10 .308
When it came time to peel off the Talon Grip from my iPhone, I really had to work at it to get an edge pulled up enough to get a grip on it. Once I did have enough for a good purchase-and-pull, the Talon Grip really fought me to stay on the phone. But, I eventually prevailed (how sad would it have been if I didn’t?) and removed the grip. I’m happy to say there was zero need for removing sticky, gluey residues – because there weren’t any. Talon Grips are 100% reversible if you want to change to a different texture or want to sell/trade the gun – you can’t say that for a custom stipple job on your gun…and I daresay the Talon Grips function better than a stipple job.
What can I say? Order some Talon Grips. Right now. If you don’t like them, you’ll be out less than $20. But were I a betting man, I’d wager that you’ll love Talon Grips on your handgun/shotgun/taser/YETI cup that you’ll be a return customer. They’re effective, inexpensive, easy to install all by your lonesome, an completely reversible. How can you go wrong? Give it a whirl, you’ll be glad you did.
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Some serious firearms are merely taken as fun guns. Why not allow them to play the role of both? Lucky for me, at a recent NRA Friends banquet, a friend bought be a raffle ticket to which it produced a winning selection of a firearm. My choice? It was a no-brainer for me when I saw the Ruger Charger, .22 pistol sitting among the group of choices that was left. To discover it was the takedown version with the green/brown laminate stock sealed the deal.
If you have not seen one yet, the Ruger Charger is classified as a pistol, but it is more than that. Its overall length is 19.25 inches and weighs about 50 ounces. They come in a fixed stock version and now a neat takedown model just like its big brother the regular Ruger 10-22 rifle. They are available in both synthetic and wood stocks.
The metal is a sort of blued, matte black. The barrel is 10-inches thus the pistol ranking. The grip is a standard hard plastic A-2 AR-15 style. There are no open sights on this rig, but it comes equipped with an add-on Picatinny rail on top of the receiver to mount a red dot optic or other type scope depending on what the user wants. Also included is a short front mounted folding bipod that attaches to the forward sling mount with the supplied adaptor.
The Ruger Charger uses a BX-15 ®, 15-round capacity “banana” type magazine that slips into the action just like a 10-22 rifle. In fact, the Charger’s action is really just the exact same one as the common 10-22 rifle action. Therefore, it only shoots long rifle rimfire ammo, so don’t try to feed this one shorts or longs.
The barrel comes threaded featuring a ½-inch-28-thread pattern to accept most suppressors, or flash hiders. These threads are capped with a factory installed thread protector. The takedown process is easy. A small lever under the action is pushed forward and the front barrel unit is simply rotated into its unlocked position. Reassembly is just as simple and the barrel/forearm unit snaps positively in place. There is a round knurled adjustment ring that is tightened upon attaching the barrel unit initially to the action. This properly spaces the barrel to the action.
The Charger comes packed in a plastic slide lock case, that frankly could be a better, more sturdy unit. The lid on mine did not fit very well. Once you assemble the pistol and attach the bipod, you are not going to use this case anyway. I suggest getting a good, padded range bag to tote and store the unit. The Charger retails for about $380, but shop around.
What Is It For?
Ruger suggests the Charger pistol is great for target shooting and small game. Their info does not specifically use the term “hunting”, but one assumes that is what they mean by small game. The .22 rimfire being what it is, this pistol could indeed be used for hunting and bug out pot food such as squirrels and rabbits.
Related: Ruger 10-22 Takedown Upgrades
If you were so inclined, the Charger could just as easily take down raccoon, opossum, and in western locales birds such as grouse, or even pheasant with some luck and patience. The point is with some practice, this .22 pistol is just as capable of dispatching any game the rimfire can put down. The attached bipod could be used to steady the pistol off the hood of a vehicle or the fender or seat of an ATV or SUV. The bipod could also be removed to shoot the Charger off of a standing bipod or tripod or unit such as a Primos Trigger Stick.
In the Field
Some may be thinking that the Ruger Charger is not a very practical firearm. I think if preppers looked at one, held one, then got to shoot it, they would be inclined to think otherwise. I mounted an AIM electronic red/green dot optic on mine. This was something I had already and thought to put it to good use to try it out. This optic has four switchable dot configurations that can be alternatively displayed in/on the glass optic screen. There is the standard dot, a crosshair, a circle, and a sort of circle with a crosshair in it. A rheostat on the side functions to change out the light intensity but also to go from red to green depending on the shooter preference.
It attached easily to the Charger’s Picatinny rail on top via a cross bolt hex screw mount. I did find that in cycling the action of the Charger to load it that my knuckle would bump into the sharp knurled optic control dial on the side of the unit. That was a mild distraction, so I had to play with moving the optic forward and back until I achieved the clearance I needed to leave skin on my knuckle.
Also Read: Ruger 10-22 Takedown Review
One other modification I made was to immediately swap out the factory A2 hard, slick plastic pistol grip with a nice, soft, Hogue AR-15 grip. I have these grips on all my ARs and find them easier to grip and hold onto. They are also not slick when wet. The change out was quick and easy.
Anyway, first, off the bench using the bipod, this little devil can slap tin cans all over the place once I got it punching small holes in target paper from 25, then 50 yards. It can gong a 10-inch metal plate all day long. And I was using rather cheap rimfire ammo, if there really is such a thing these days.
I’m not one to press ranges with a rimfire, but I sure think this rig can take down small game out to 50 yards with a steady rest of some kind. I plan to further test the pistol off a Trigger Stick once small game season opens. The Ruger Charger could definitely be a field walk around gun, but I have got to ponder on a way to rig up a sling of some sort. The jury is still out on the usefulness of the bipod except off a bench or flat rest.
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When at my bug out camp, I have this theory about any gun being better than no gun, so even a .22 rimfire ought to scare away a poacher or trespasser with a few rounds in the vicinity. But if not, then my AR is on the ATV and the 1911 is in my Diamond D chest rig.
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The wizards at Magpul have done it again. As if their game-changing polymer 30-round PMAG wasn’t enough, they upped the ante with a 60-round drum magazine. And sometimes the obvious benefits of something are not, well, obvious. Such is the case with the Magpul D-60. The D-60 drum mag was announced at the February 2015 SHOT Show, but didn’t appear regularly on dealer shelves until after Thanksgiving, or even January 2016.
But the wait was worth it. For those who see the wisdom in a drum mag, the PMAG D-60 answers the call for a higher high capacity mag without the absurd length created when just doubling or tripling the size of a 30 round box mag.
Plead Your Case
The D-60 is not without some challenges, but first one must understand the point of a drum mag, especially when the wildly popular, reliable, and inexpensive 30 round PMAGs are common. So why a 60 round drum instead of two 30 round magazines? Here are some reasons, but I bet you can think of more. Just keep in mind that there are many who can find problems. That’s the easy part. The smart folks like those at Magpul find solutions.
Under “survival conditions”…
1. If you leave your gear behind, the more onboard ammo, the better.
2. You might be handing the gun off to someone else so slamming home 60 rounds is easier than explaining the nuances of changing mags.
3. In the unlikely event that your bug out runs into unexpected turbulence, you may only have one hand free at a time, and single-handed mag swaps are a pain.
4. The sheer firepower of sixty bangs downrange is literally twice that of a conventional mag. Double your firepower, double your fun.
5. There is just something innately practical about a rifle with a 60 round mag. No baggage, mag pouches, or clumsily reloads necessary.
6. Ammo can be stored long term in the D-60 drums so you will be one more step toward preparedness compared to your ammo mule loaded with bulk rounds.
However, and there always seems to be a however, some challenges to the D-60 need to be addressed, or at the least owned.
1. Compared to a 30 round PMAG, the D-60 is expensive. Retailing for $130 and with street prices not much less than that, a fair comparison might be that the 30 round PMAG costs about sixty cents per round held. On the other hand, the D-60 is about $2.15 per round.
2. Compared to a 30 round PMAG, the D-60 weighs four times as much, but holds only twice as many rounds. Or a sixth of an ounce per bang with the PMAG-30, and a third of an ounce per bang with the D-60. So essentially the D-60 weighs about twice as much per round.
3. Loading the D-60 takes time and effort. Unloading the D-60 takes time and effort.
4. The D-60 is four times thicker than a standard PMAG although it is a hair shorter than a 30 round PMAG.
5. While the design is fairly basic for a drum mag, the D-60 is vastly more complex than a standard box-shaped PMAG.
The reason we are hesitant or even skeptical about a 60-round AR15 drum magazine, or any 60-rounder or more for that matter, is that the choices have been scarce, and the reliability highly questionable at best. With Magpul on board reliability becomes a non-issue and quality control is never a problem.
Building out one’s survival kit requires forward thinking. It must have occurred to Magpul that the price and weight of a 60 round drum compared to a pair of 30 round PMAGs would be a deal-killer for many. And while I understand this logic, and in fact practiced it up to this point, I am now a believer that the drum mag has it’s place in the survival kit. Even more than just a place, the D-60 has distinct advantages that should be taken seriously.
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With the D-60’s overall length the same as a standard 30 round PMAG, it’s possible to nestle in with bipod and shooting mat getting twice the shots without adjusting position. The D-60 does not even touch the ground when the rifle is sitting on nothing but bipod feet and buttstock.
But that pesky price tag was still hard to swallow. In fact, on a good day a pair of 30-round PMAGs could cost $100 less than a D-60. Oh, and there is the pain in the butt loading of the D-60. In fact, it was that loading round after round that got me thinking about the survival aspects of the D-60. For years, my bedroom nightstand safe held a Glock 17 with laser/light and extra 33 round mag. So why wouldn’t I want 60 rounds? In what universe would 17 rounds, or 30 with the AR not be enough, yet you would only want 17 or 30 more when you could have 33 or 60?
High Speed Low Drag
The original M16 had a 20 round magazine. Most 1911 handguns contain seven or eight rounds in a flush-mount magazine. Then 30 rounds became the M16/M4 norm, and Glocks with their 15 or 17 round mags became the new cool kids. Heck, the west was won with six in the cylinder and 15 in the tube (Henry Repeater in .44-40). Even the higher powered Winchester Model 1894 30-30 rifle packed six to eight rounds.
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Other have attempt to capture the higher high cap mag needs of AR owners included the 100 round Beta double-drum mag, Surefire’s 100 round and 60 round box magazines, the X-Products 50 round drum, and even Magpul’s own 40 round PMAG. While the aforementioned higher high cap options might have succeeded in pushing the price north of three figures, the reliability of such mags has been a sore spot. The only exception is the 40 round Magpul PMAG, but at Hollywood proportions it is anything but low drag as it rivals the length of some SBR barrels. Literally, imagine your mag longer than your barrel. Maybe ok with your Glock 26, but not your rifle.
With five dozen rounds onboard the D-60 weighs half as much as an ultra-light AR. The three pounds of mag does affect the heft of the rifle but not much it’s swing. The dense ball of ammo sits close to the rifle’s center of mass so rotating the gun side to side, back and forth, and up and down is affected much less than a three-pound-15-inch metal banana poking out of the magwell.
Into the Wild
The Magpul PMAG D-60 is an exceptionally fine piece of hardware. Regardless of how you use it or what you use it for, the D-60 will perform flawlessly. And that fact alone cannot be said about any other AR15 mag over 40 rounds. Period.
Loading the D-60 is easy but a little on the slow side. There is a loading lever on the drum that relieves some spring tension. The lever rotates about 30 degrees counterclockwise allowing about three rounds to be dropped into the tower for the first couple dozen rounds. Then the loading lever must be released and re-ratcheted. The third and fourth dozen rounds loads as twos, then ones, and as you approach the end of the fifth dozen, you will need to ratchet a couple times per round. With an adapter, stripper clips can be used, but at the same three-round loading burst at best. I recommend wearing a work glove on your mag-side hand (the D-60s design favors right-hand loading) because your thumb becomes irritated with it’s low-level lever-shoving job.
When fully loaded the D-60 will easily snap home in an AR even with the bolt closed. Plus Magpul assures us that the D-60 will be just fine when stored long term with 60 rounds circling its mainspring. I’m testing that at the moment and will get back to you in a couple years.
The small porthole in the 12 o’clock position on the back shows when the sixtieth has been inserted. Indicators on the window denote approximately every 15 rounds from 10 to 60. Personally, I hope Magpul or someone else releases a aftermarket transparent backplate so the total round count is completely obvious at a glance because the difference between 60 rounds and 58 rounds is the same as one full trip around the spring. I just wish the window was larger, or more simply, there was another similar window at the 6 o’clock position to provide twice the critical information.
The D-60 is for .223/5.56 only. Reports of successful .300 Blackout usage do exist, but so do stories of D-60 failure and even violent breakage when loaded and fired with .30 caliber cartridges.
Like some TP with your Mag Dump?
To unload the D-60, Magpul recommends that you thumb-out each and every cartridge individually. Should you feel the urge to use the loading lever to release spring tension, well don’t! While a handful of brass will tumble out of the tower, the rest will jam up requiring a time-consuming and possibly dangerous (to you and your mag) operation to open the drum and release the rest of the ammo.
The D-60 should work fine on any rifle that uses standard NATO 5.56 box magazines including the M4, M16, SCAR, MK16/16S, HK416, MR556, M27 IAR, and the Tavor. However, whether or not the bolt holds open after the final round is dependent on the particular firearm. On all my AR15s the bolt was yawning widely following the 60th bang like a baby bird waiting for a worm. Of course your mileage may vary. And for those long guns with bullpup tendencies, some adjustment of grip on the gun will be necessary when the drum invades your armspace.
To keep the D-60 feeding smoothly, I suspected that the included lubricant wipe of CLP is a hint that this drum needs occasional maintenance. And indeed the fine print that comes with the D-60 suggests that the spiral feeding track be lightly lubed about every 1000 rounds. That’s just under 17 full mags. When unloaded, the D-60 disassembles safely and quietly since the spring is not under tension. So care and feeding the D-60 is painless, but does take a slotted screwdriver.
Also Read: Magpul PMAG Torture Test
Magpul includes a soft plastic cover for the business end of the mag. It is only a dust cover and provides no stress relief for the feed lips. My assumption is that no relief is needed because the spring tension only amounts to the length of the tower and not the full 60 rounds as if it were a long banana mag instead of a drum. There is a small attachment point on the dust cover that Magpul included so the cap could be attached to your storage and deployment solution of choice. That way when you need to do a fast reload, you can grab the drum and yank it free from the cap in one smooth move.
Four small 3×5 blocks of dot matrix panels on the back side allow for mag identification using a paint pen or gold Sharpie. The tiny recessed surfaces will retain the ink providing an all-important asset management notation when needing to ID any particular mag from your pile of others.
Need vs. Want
One real world test I failed to employ is a total immersion in water. Easy to do, but at the moment I’ll trust that Magpul’s drainage ports will do the job even though they are not as obvious as on other mags.
And another real world test I would love to try but don’t have the heart to do it is drop a fully loaded (almost three pounds) mag from six feet onto cement. Although Magpul claims the D-60 is built with “next-generation impact and crush resistant polymer” my prediction is that the mag could blow apart spilling its guts rather violently. Or maybe more likely it would just crack open a little unlike Humpty Dumpty, but nothing beyond what can be snapped back together by hand. But as I’ve learned from past experience with Magpul polymer, I bet I would just need to apologize to the D-60 and give it a big hug. Good as new.
The 30 round PMAG offered us a durability and reliability we could only dream of before. And now the Magpul PMAG D-60 Drum Magazine offers us the same desired features but at double the capacity. If you’re building a budget AR, then your list of upgrades might have a bit of a line ahead of the D-60. But if you drop a grand or more on your tricked out Katrina Rifle, then why would you get nervous about handing over a Benji for a high-capacity drum mag. Cheap magazines are an illusion. I cannot imagine quibbling over the price of gas while bugging out, so I won’t be complaining about the price of the D-60. But I will be bragging about how great it is.
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So I got a Sig Sauer P320. I saw it in a local pawn shop, sitting there in the glass case, perched on green velvet, looking all blocky and businesslike and badass. I handled it, fondled it, wiped the drool away, and made a trade for it. It went home with me where I glared at it in consternation, half furious with myself and half in wild elation. You see, I really wanted to not like this pistol. I really wanted to chalk this one up to “the next flash in the plastic pistol pan” and go back to being ensconced in uninhibited true lust over my beloved P220ST. I wanted to eschew the molded polymer grip with its slight seam lines and go back to trusty, heavy, metal pistol frames. But the more I handled the P320 and the more I shot it, the sweet siren song of a single trigger pull to master, brutal simplicity, accuracy, and large capacity called to me, and pulled me in. I finally gave in to the dark side, and am now firmly in its camp. Let me explain.
You see, I grew up in a transitional period in firearms development. In the late 1970’s and early 1980s, police departments were starting to replace their time-honored .357 Magnum and .38 Special revolvers with semiautomatic handguns. The 9mm was starting to gain traction, as high-capacity double-action handguns were starting to come unto their own with designs that were reliable enough to feed hollowpoint ammunition regularly. Also aiding the 9mm’s acceptance was the U.S. Military’s adoption of the 9mm caliber in 1985, along with the Beretta M9/92F platform. Sig P226 pistols, S&W 59s and 459s, and several other designs were starting to be seen in Law Enforcement holsters when one of the most decisive and studied gunfights in history – the 1986 Miami FBI shootout – occurred.
In the Miami shootout, FBI agents went up against two combat-hardened military veterans who had some serious armament – a semi-auto 12-gauge shotgun, a Ruger Mini-14 with multiple 30-round magazines, and several handguns. To counter this, eight FBI agents fielded just two 12 gauge shotguns loaded with buckshot, and mostly revolvers – though two agents had Smith 459s in 9mm with Winchester Silver tip ammo. Although the two suspects were neutralized eventually, they wounded or killed all but one of the eight FBI agents who engaged them. One agent named McNeill suffered one of the worst fates possible in a gunfight: he was shot in the hand by one of the suspects, and when his revolver ran dry, he could not reload due to blood and gore in the gun, and his injuries. He was then shot in the head and neck and though he survived, he was left paralyzed for some time.
I remember my father talking about the gunfight when it occurred, and reading about it in gun magazines – notably in several analyses by Massad Ayoob. (A 25-years-later article by Mr. Ayoob is here, and is excellent.). Firepower and semi-autos suddenly became the have-to-have for LE. Gaston Glock’s entry into the marketplace in 1985 couldn’t have been better timed. Officers quickly flocked to Glock’s first offering, the Glock 17. A reliable, tough, 17-shot 9mm semi auto was a peace officer’s dream, and as we now know, Glock quickly took over the market, where it still remains the king of the pile.
Related: Sig Sauer P227 Nitron Review
I also remember hearing my father complain about the flood of “those damn plastic pistols”, and he clung to his Smith & Wesson revolvers tightly (he only started to begrudgingly accept “tupperware” Glocks in the past couple years – and he refuses to try any other polymer framed pistols!) His grousing led to permanent impressions being left in my young brain, and to this day, I have a tough time embracing modern, polymer-framed, striker fired handguns.
Back To The Sig
To bring this around full circle: Glock’s striker-fired monopoly on the handgun market was definitely noticed by all the other handgun manufacturers, and some decided to do what they could to dig their heels in and try to push the king off the mountain. Initial offerings weren’t enough: Smith & Wesson’s Sigma and SW99 offerings were lame ducks, but they evolved into the excellent M&P series of pistols that have been taking the market by storm since 2005. Others have jumped into the fray, and now there are many polymer framed, high-capacity contenders out there to keep Glocks and M&Ps company: the H&K VP series of guns, Walther’s PPQ/PPM, Springfield’s XD line, and the FN FNX series (and others) have all been gaining traction.
However, one of the premier firearms manufacturers in the world were strangely silent: Sig Sauer, a German company that has a huge manufacturing facility and new headquarters in New Hampshire, USA, never said “peep” about making a “Glockfighter” handgun. Maybe it was because they’d always made expensive, high-end DA/SA handguns; they didn’t want to undercut their niche. However, you could see that maybe they were testing the waters on lower-cost handguns: The SP2022 was a polymer-framed evolution of the 226/228/229 family, and the P250 was an innovative hammer-fired handgun that used a stainless steel fire control group chassis that could be interchanged into inexpensive grip modules. All of these were well-received as being high-quality handguns worthy of the Sig brand, but they weren’t what the world wanted. But then, in January 2014, Sig unveiled their new P320 to the world and promptly dropped the mike. BOOM.
For the past few years, Sig had quietly been watching and researching. They wanted to address the major shortfalls of the early striker-fired genre (we’re looking squarely at you here, Glock): terrible out-of-the-box trigger pulls, blocky grip frames, glaring lack of ambidextrous controls. Sig had been waiting in the wings, interviewing veteran military and police officers to get their take on what makes a good handgun great, to make sure their offering was just right…and it was worth the wait.
Also Read: Smith & Wesson M&P 40C Review
Sig Sauer wasn’t content with having tacky add-ons for existing designs to address issues – the Glock Gen 4’s feeble attempt at fitting differently-sized hands with add-on backstraps being a good example. They wanted a full-tilt modular pistol, and that’s what they rolled out. The P320 isn’t just a great, reliable design that shoots well; it is a masterpiece, a platform of unequaled modularity. You see, the P320’s design is centered around a central stainless steel fire control group chassis. This small chassis is serial numbered, and is considered the firearm. As a consequence, the owner of the pistol can completely swap out the rest of the gun…the grip module can be swapped out to full sized, carry (full sized grip length with a shorter railed dust cover for a shorter slide), compact, and subcompact sized frames. Each of these sizes of frames are also available in large, medium, and small grip frame girths to accommodate almost all sizes of shooter hands. Likewise, the slide, barrel, and recoil spring assemblies can be swapped out as well; Sig offers multiple lengths for these as well. Want a different caliber pistol? No sweat! The 9mm, .40 S&W, and .357 Sig barrels and magazines all drop into the same grip/slide assemblies. Sig offers “X-Change” kits that let you select the configuration/length/caliber you’d like, and buy them all in one shot.
This all ensures that you can have the pistol you want, in the caliber you want, in the configuration you want, tailored to fit your hand. This sort of modularity is a game-changer, and leaves all the other manufacturers with pin-on grip adapters and change-out backstraps way back in the dust. It also ensures that the military is certainly considering it deeply in their new MHS (Modular Handgun System) platform competition, and it cinched the American Rifleman Golden Bullseye Award for the 2016 Pistol of the Year.
Let’s take a look at what all this modularity specifically brings to the table, as well as some other great stuff the P320 offers. There are four basic platform sizes available for the P320, each of them with three different grip sizes: small, medium, large. The platforms are:
P320 Full-sized: 8.0” overall length, 5.5” overall height. The Full-sized configuration sports a 4.7” long barrel, and a 17-round magazine in 9mm. Weighs 29.4 ounces with the magazine in it, unloaded. Five slots on the dust cover accessory rail, to mount lights, lasers, etc.
P320 Carry: Same grip frame as the Full-sized with 17-round 9mm magazines, but with a shorter 7.2” overall length and 3.9” barrel and 26.0 ounce weight unloaded. Shorter dust cover, four slots in the accessory rail.
P320 Compact: The Compact has the shorter 7.2” overall length of the P320 Carry, but utilizes a grip that is a tad shorter, at 5.3” high. 25.8 ounces unloaded. The magazine capacity is reduced to 15 round in 9mm due to the shorter grip. Four slots in the accessory rail.
P320 Subcompact: The Subcompact model pares away everything not needed, and enjoys a small 6.7” overall length and 4.7” overall height to enhance concealability. 24.9 ounces unloaded. The 9mm version carries only (!) 12 rounds in the magazine. The subcompact also has sleeker lines, eliminates the accessory rails, and sports a rounded, no-snag triggerguard in place of the familiar square, hooked Sig Sauer triggerguard.
Okay, so there are four basic pistol offerings. That’s all well and good. But a really cool thing about the P320’s design is that you can, to a reasonable degree, mix-and-match frames and barrels. You don’t have to stick to the Sig standard factory-offered configurations. For example: you can buy a full-sized P320 like mine. Then, for about $45, you can purchase a P320 Compact grip and mount your full-sized slide and barrel to it. I’ve seen lots of cool builds online from P320 owners making custom configurations out of their guns, even to the point of people cutting off sections of grip frame to make offball configurations like a full-sized slide that sits on a subcompact frame. And before you ask, yes – the full-sized mags all fit and function in the smaller grip frames. All of the sizes are available in 9mm, .40 S&W, .357 Sig, and .45ACP. Caliber X-change kits are $399 from the Sig Sauer online store – however, I’ve seen them sold privately and locally for less than that. I don’t believe the .45ACP components will marry with the smaller-caliber components due to case size – but I don’t have one to test, so I can only surmise.
Also Read: Rothco Concealed Carry Jacket Review
The glass-reinforced polymer grip frames all have nice grippy texture on them – likely a response to many polymer framed gun owners sending their guns out be stippled or have grip texture enhancements. The triangular shaped Browning-style magazine release is reversible for southpaws, and the small black steel slide catch is 100% ambidextrous with catches on both sides of the gun. Looking at the grip, you’ll notice the pistol has an odd profile at the magazine well at first glance. However, once you realize that it’s notched to enable the user to grasp the magazine baseplate for a good hearty magazine rip-out in an emergency, you wonder why other guns don’t have similar features. A lanyard hole in the back of the grip is standard – a slick offering for people who appreciate the retention possibilities of a good lanyard. The only other control on the frame is the takedown lever, which is on the left side of the gun. Mine is an earlier generation gun and as such, the takedown lever is slightly stepped and contoured. Newer model takedown levers are flat to the frame – however, I really like the tapered design of mine, since it provides a bit of a natural thumb rest for the off-hand thumb in a modern thumbs-forward shooting hold.
The slides are matte black Nitron coated, and are beveled and contoured to keep weight down and allow the gun to be re-inserted into holsters more smoothly. Sig is offering standard on the P320 what is an expensive custom detail on other pistols: forward slide serrations in addition to the standard serrations at the rear of the slide. These forward serrations are a godsend when doing press-checks to see if there is a round in the chamber, and all the serrations are deep, wide, and very positive to utilize. Really a great feature of this gun. Also of note: every P320 I’ve ever seen comes with SigLite night sights. I’m told they come with Sig 3-dot standard contrast sights, but I have yet to see them. So chances are you’ll find one with night sights installed– and they’re right about the same price as a Glock without night sights. Just sayin’…I was at the local Cabela’s last night, and a brand new P320 with night sights was $599. A new Glock 17 without night sights was $549.
Related: Survival Carbine
The stainless steel Fire Control Unit (FCU) is the heart of the whole gun. It encompasses the trigger, frame rails, ejector, and all the necessary safeties and guts that make the gun work. The FCU sits in the top of the grip frame, and runs from just forward of the takedown lever, back to the rear of the frame. Removing and reinstalling it is a breeze, and a tip of the hat is required to the engineers who designed it. The FCU, as stated previously, has the serial number stamped on it, which shows through a window that is moulded into the right hand size of the frame. It’s an ingenious setup, one that I bet will be imitated by others in the future.
As a side note: The Sig P320 and P250 platform are brothers – the P320 is striker-fired, while the P250 is double-action-only hammer fired. As such, magazines and grip frames are interchangeable between the two guns. A nice little tidbit to know while looking for accessories such as holsters.
The first time you pick up a P320 Full Size, you immediately think, “Geez, that’s BIG”. And it kind of is big, but much of it is due (in my eyes) to the deep, long, blocky dust cover that runs from the triggerguard all the way to the end of the 4.7” barrel; it makes the gun seem taller than most other handguns. But the grip is long as well, made to house a magazine that holds 17 9mm rounds or 14 .40 S&W/.357 Sig cartridges. The overall size is probably close to a Beretta 92/M9, though not quite as long. The Sig feels much more svelte than the M9, though, and points better in my hand, feels more intuitive. When making the obvious comparison to a Glock 17, the P320 is indeed bigger, but not by much…and the P320 grip feels like it was made for your hand when comparing it to the made-out-of-Legos feeling Glock grip. The contours, the balance, the reach to the controls – all are very well thought out and executed on the P320. And then you get to the trigger.
Also Read: Magpul Armorer’s Wrench Review
Oh, the trigger! The trigger on the P320 was the deal breaker that sold me on the gun. Sig obviously directed a LOT of time and effort into getting this aspect of the pistol right. And if you’ve shot a box-stock Glock or M&P, you know why: the factory triggers of most striker fired pistols are just plain awful. They have a ton of takeup and creep, and the sear letoffs are gritty and mushy. It’s understandable, though: There are many internal levers, safeties, draw bars, strikers, and interfacing parts that need to move, slide, drop, and actuate in concert to allow the gun to fire. And while all of those parts do a wonderful job of ensuring that the guns will not fire until the triggers are fully pulled to the rear, they also ensure that the trigger pulls are less than stellar.
This can all be addressed with aftermarket parts, for sure: Ghost and others make great drop in springs and disconnectors for Glocks, and Apex’s Action Enhancement Kits are wonderful treatments for ailing M&P triggers. But the P320? Well, it has a wonderful trigger, straight from the factory. It’s not “tuned 1911” perfect, but the trigger is definitely head and shoulders above the similarly-priced competition. There is a slight takeup, maybe 1/4” of travel, but then the trigger breaks cleanly and crisply after about 7 pounds of pressure. However, the pull seems lighter than the advertised 7+/- pounds due to the exceptional action and clean break. Apex and others are starting to make aftermarket triggers and other goodies for the P320, but I simply haven’t felt the need. The trigger is superb for a striker fired gun, straight from Sig. If it ain’t broke…
Also Read: Firearm Maintenance When The SHTF
The rest of the gun on first inspection just exudes Sig quality. The finish is beautiful, hard-wearing and even, the sights are well-defined and highly visible, and all the controls feel solid and look good. The only thing close to chintzy in the whole setup isn’t even the gun – the P320 comes with an almost-an-afterthought paddle-type plastic holster. It’s nice that Sig made a holster available to the owner upon purchase, and the holster works okay – it holds the gun on your hip, the triggerguard is covered, the pistol is reasonably secure. But the moulded plastic is kind of cheap, the design is blocky and it doesn’t hug the body. I’ll admit I used it, but only until my GunfightersINC Ronin OWB kydex holster came in the mail. After that, the stock Sig offering went into the dusty black-hole bin of forgotten holsters. Honestly, I would have rather paid $15 less on the overall price and not had the holster come with the pistol. But that’s my call; the included holster is a nice thought for the run-of-the-mill pistol owner who goes out the range with his buddies three times a year. But, for serious usage and hard duty, spend the money and get a good holster.
Breaking It All Down
Taking the P320 apart into its key components is a breeze. Sig also incorporated a safety feature into the P320’s field-stripping method: you don’t have to pull the trigger (like a Glock) or need special tools (like an M&P) to disassemble the pistol. The magazine needs to be out of the pistol as well. These two attributes are designed to eradicate accidental discharges that could come hand-in-hand with the other offerings of handguns of this ilk.
To disassemble, clear the gun. Make sure it’s empty. Then do it again. Drop the magazine out of the pistol if you haven’t already, then lock the slide ito the rear. Rotate the takedown lever just over 90° clockwise, until it stops. Then, controlling the spring tension the slide is under, release the slide by pushing the slide stop down or pulling slightly back on the slide, allowing the slide stop to drop out of its engagement catch. Let the slide ride forward and off the frame. The recoil spring assembly and the barrel can then be removed out of the bottom of the slide, just like most other semi-auto pistols. The pistol is now essentially field-stripped for cleaning.
However, to clean the FCU or to change grip modules, you simply take the field-stripped grip frame, grasp the takedown lever, and give it a pull while rotating it slightly back and forth, removing it from the frame. Then, hook your finger under the front of the FCU, and pull it up and out. That’s it. The whole process is brutally simple and easy. The FCU can then be cleaned up, or placed in a new grip module if you so desire. Re-assemble in reverse order. That’s it, folks. It likely took you longer to read this paragraph than it would to disassemble a P320 down to its key components of slide, barrel, recoil assembly, takedown lever, FCU, magazine, and grip frame. The simplicity and modularity is breathtaking, and worth every penny of the price of admission.
Shooting The P320
I’ll admit, it took me a bit longer that I would’ve liked to find my “groove” and get familiar with this pistol to the point where I shooting it well. Maybe my mind was thinking it would feel like my old familiar M&P when I shot it, or possibly I’m too used to my P220ST. But after launching a couple hundred rounds of ammo downrange, I can positively tell you that this pistol shoots like a laser beam once you get it dialed in, and once you find ammo it likes. Let me explain.
When I first got the pistol, the pistol was hitting high. Way high. Like 8 inches higher than point of aim at 15 yards. I tried different bullet weights – 115s, 124s, and 147s – and they all shot similarly high. I then jumped on my laptop, took a deep breath, and waded through the mall ninja dribble online. A bit of internet research eventually informed me that this point of impact issue is a common problem with the P320s with the 8/8 sights. Sig Sauer numbers their sight heights to denote levels of impact – the higher the number on the sights, the higher the point of impact. I had these sights – #8 front, #8 rear. I contacted Sig Sauer, explained my problem, what I’d done to make sure it wasn’t me, and sent pictures of the groups in. Three days later, I had a new #6 SigLite front sight in my mailbox. How’s that for customer service?
I installed the new front sight, and the point of impact came right down. It’s still slightly high, maybe 1 ½ inches high from point of aim at 15 yards, but now it’s usable, and I’ve gotten used to it. I now cut the target in half with my front sight, and if I do my part, the pistol rewards me with solid hits time and time again.
I really wanted to use this Full-Sized 9mm P320 as a steel plate match and IDPA gun. To shoot lots of matches on a budget requires reloading ammunition, so I took the plunge. I purchased 2,000 124-grain lead round nose bullets and several different powders that friends had recommended for 9mm loads. However, I’m finding that even after trying several different handload combinations, 4”-6” groups are the norm at 15 yards. I’m planning on trying other powders and other bullets, but I have yet to find a 124-grain lead bullet load the pistol likes. To Sig’s merit, there are many people running P320s as match guns with several of the loads I tried, resulting in excellent accuracy. Mine just doesn’t like the handloads I’ve tried so far.
However, factory ammunition is a different story altogether. My pistol dearly loves Winchester “white box” 115-grain full metal jacket ammuntion, and routinely shoots ragged one-hole two-inch 10-shot groups with it. It also shoots Sig Sauer’s Elite V-Crown 124-grain JHP ammunition superbly, so that is the defense load I carry in the pistol. PMC Bronze 115 grain FMJ ammunition and Federal American Eagle 147-grain FMJ both shoot very well out of the pistol. I rested the gun on a shooting bench, and was rewarded with a 20-yard, 10-shot group with Winchester 115-grain FMJ measuring just under two inches. The Sig Elite V-Crown 124s performed similarly. That’s excellent accuracy for an out-of-the-box pistol…I’m pretty sure that with ammunition it likes, this pistol will shoot better than I can. Functioning over probably 750 rounds so far – mostly dirty, lead-bullet handloads – has been absolutely flawless. You can’t ask for more than that, friends.
Wrapping It Up
In conclusion, it’s definitely telling that Sig Sauer took their time and made an outstanding offering straight out of the gate…and they did it without breaking the bank or compromising the high-end reputation the Sig Sauer brand has come to represent over the years. I’m a serious gun snob and admitted fanboy of the Sig Sauer “Classic” line (P220, P225, P226, P228, P229, et al), but I like this P320 so much it comes with me everywhere I go now, even if I’m not carrying it on my person. It’s a great choice as a gun to have with you or in the vehicle as a serious defensive tool you can rely on when the chips are down. The accuracy is excellent, the pistol is dependable, the gun is light for its size, even when stuffed full of eighteen 9mm rounds. Keep an extra couple magazines in a mag pouch, and you have 52 rounds of warm and fuzzy ready to go when you are.
Related: SHTF Grab ‘N’ Go Pistol Bag
The P320 platform, on a whole, makes an excellent choice for the person who needs multiple roles in their pistols (full sized “belt” gun, concealed carry gun, plinker, training firearm, home defense, etc.) but can’t afford multiple pistols or doesn’t want the maintenance or liability hassles that owning many guns can bring. If Sig Sauer would follow suit with many of their other handgun designs and offer .22LR conversion kits (you hear me out there, Sig??) you could truly have a damn-close-to-perfect-do-it-all handgun.
Do me a favor, especially if you already own a polymer-framed striker-fired handgun. Next time you see a Sig Sauer P320 in a gun shop’s case, ask to handle the gun. Ask to dry-fire it. Ask to try out or be shown the disassembly feature, and how the modularity comes into play. I bet you’ll be impressed; maybe even impressed enough to look sideways at other striker-fired guns, give in to the dark side like I did, and buy a P320. Trust me, it was worth the wait.
The Miami News
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I have never owned an assisted opening pocket knife before but have always wanted one. From the outside they seemed like they would be flimsy and their action was all for show. Most of the people I had met that brandished an assisted opening blade, were of the “mall ninja” type. I had no real basis for that thought process but it was a gut feeling I had from secondhand experience. Since I love a good knife and I’m always looking for a new one to try, I decided to take the plunge to find an assisted opening blade for my EDC. I did not want to spend a lot of money on something that I had never tried before.
By Bryan, a contributing author of Survival Cache & SHTFBlog
Under $20 Bucks
I found the Kershaw OSO Sweet Assisted Opening Pocket Knife on Amazon for under $20 and figured I couldn’t go wrong for that price for this particular brand. The first thing I noticed when I took the knife from the box was how lightweight it felt. At 3.2 ounces you almost don’t even notice the knife in your hand, let alone your pocket. At four and one-eighth inches long this knife fits diagonally in the palm of my hand with the blade closed. I felt a bit like a kid in a candy store the first time I engaged the assisted opening. The quick hard snap of the blade opening and locking up, was quite impressive. Shutting and opening the blade one handed is very easy and requires almost no practice as long as you are familiar with pocket knives.
Normally I am not a huge fan of stainless steel blades but this particular knife came razor sharp out of the box. Yes, it shaved hair off of the top of my arm. Thus far the blade has held its edge quite well through extensive use every day for months. I have used the Kershaw OSO Sweet Assisted Opening Pocket Knife to cut everything from cardboard, carpet, rope, to shaving tinder from branches. This knife wasn’t really meant for the use I have put it through because it is not a survival knife, nor is it a utility knife but the stainless steel blade has held up well and I like to test my blades outside of their normal use parameters. The Smith Pocket Sharpener does an Ok job putting an edge back on the blade but I have much better results if I put in the time with some Arkansas stones at home.
SpeedSafe® assisted opening
Reversible (tip-up/tip-down) pocketclip
Steel: 8Cr13MoV, satin finish
Handle: Glass-filled nylon
Blade length: 3.1 in. (7.9 cm)
Closed length: 4.1 in. (10.5 cm)
Overall length: 7.25 in. (18.4 cm)
Weight: 3.2 oz. (90.7 g)
The black injection-molded glass-filled nylon handle has held up extremely well to the abuse I have put it through. I cannot count how many times I have dropped this knife onto the concrete or how many times it has rubbed up against other tools and there is not a scratch on it. In some customer reviews that I have read they have negative opinions of the handle, though, from an aesthetics standpoint rather than functional one. Personally I like the “spider web” look of the scales and the feel of it in my hand. All knives are slippery to a degree when they are wet and this knife is no different. The few times I have used it while wet, the slippage was not great enough to be a concern.
Out of all the EDC knives that I have owned over the years this knife beats them all hands down. For the price, the Model 1830 Kershaw OSO Sweet Pocket Knife cannot be beat. I love the balance of the knife when it is deployed, especially when transitioning from a standard forward position to a reverse hold position. It is just as fast to deploy as it is to put away which I think is an important aspect to note. One other EDC knife that I owned had an additional safety lock on it. I can see why they would put such a feature on a knife but it did make it difficult to close and place back in my pocket. I think Kershaw did an outstanding job on this model as I have zero complaints and would not change a thing.
All Photos by Bryan
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Most knowledgeable wilderness survivalists will tell you that although you can only survive about three days without water, you can survive for numerous days and even weeks without food provided
The first primitive firearms were invented and constructed by the Chinese in the 13th century A.D. to harness the explosive power of gun powder as a powerful weapon of war. Since then, firearms have undergone an extensive progression of refinement from the first crude matchlocks to flintlocks to caplocks and on to the invention of […]
The definition of a neck knife pretty much begins and ends with it being a blade worn on a lanyard around one’s neck. Rather than in a belt sheath, pocket, pack clipped anywhere else, the neck knife offers a deployment option and carry strategy that opens some doors especially during specific activities and positions. Neck knives can be tiny and as small as an index finger, usually carried tip-up. Or they can be near full sized and carried tip-down on a substantial neckstrap. Those are the small size can take many additional forms depending on anticipated use from EDC to the edges of survival.
The larger end of the spectrum are more for daily use and easy access during general outdoors and bushcrafting tasks. The particular reason I wear a neck knife is two-fold; first as a sport-specific knife, and second, for survival applications when things might-could get dark (using some small-town parlance).
Four situations I wear a neck knife over a knife in my pocket (or in addition to) include skiing, mountain biking, watersports like paddleboarding, and backpacking and hunting. A main reason I got into neck carry is because I either am not wearing any pockets, or I may need to deploy the knife in a partially immobilized or even inverted state. And I have different neck knives for each activity. For downhill skiing, I wear a Boker Magyar. It’s a stout little beast with a large finger hole and a thick drop point blade. The 440-C stainless steel is a must, like the mountain biking knife, because it will be soaked in salty sweat. I like the finger hole to keep the Boker Magyar under control when hands are cold or a drop in the snow might as well be overboard in the ocean.
For mountain biking, I like the Boker Grasshopper. It has more handle than blade and is of a more traditional look as if just a small belt knife missing its scales. The Grasshopper has a titanium-coated 440-C stainless clip point blade that can drill and stab better than drop points. It can also be held comfortably in a reverse grip as needed even though it weighs less than an ounce. And it’s near weightlessness makes it almost invisible even when bouncing down the trail.
Backpacking is another matter. I prefer a workhorse of a neck knife because I will be using it often. The previous two are more for emergencies, or for that occasional extra-strength food wrapper. For camping trips I want a neck knife that will get some daily if not hourly use. I prefer the ESEE Candiru with G-10 scales. It’s a tiny little critter, both the knife and its namesake, but the tales of it swimming up your, well, private part (the critter not the knife) are overblown (pun intended). However, as a carbon steel the Candiru will rust if left alone, but the powder coating protects all but the very edge of the edge. After a day of wear, tiny orange flowers start growing on the shiny metal. But the quality ESEE 1095 tool steel touches up beautifully with little effort to kiss the oxidation goodbye until next time. Of all my neck knives, the has the best grip, but also the thickest footprint.
Also Read: Fallkniven Jarl Knife Review
And for paddleboarding and sea kayaking, I like the Boker Gnome. Why? Well, partially I just like the Boker Gnome and am always looking for a reason to wear it. It’s a funny little knife with an apt name. The Gnome has a very thick blade for it’s size and two of the cutest little micarta scales you’ve ever seen. It is the best prybar of my neck knives and it’s 440-C steel resists rust better than most, even in salt water. The knife is held only between the thumb and index finger because that’s all there is to hold. So you could say that this is not a high leverage knife even with a 2 ⅛” long and ¼ inch thick blade. But where the Gnome does shine is in brute strength if you have to pound on it like a piton.
…And Eat It Too
The question as to why a tiny fixed blade instead of a robust folder is a good one. Especially since folding knives today are better and stronger than ever. But not at under two ounces, or even under one ounce. Hinged blades require robust parts and dual reinforcement in the handle. Locking mechanisms, by nature, can never be as strong as as a solid shaft of steel for the same weight. And even given the added weight, deployment still requires gravity, muscle or a more complex spring system. The simplicity of a tiny fixed blade cannot be argued within those parameters.
A neck knife has only three parts: a knife, a sheath, and a loop of cord that allows the sheath to be worn around the neck. There are no size or weight restrictions. The blade can point up or down. And the sheath can be molded Kydex, or elegant leather or even bland plastic. In my case, I prefer the uneventful durability of nylon-like scabbards. A durable, but breakaway neck cord should be a must, but we put many strong cords around our necks quite often, so I’m not really worried that my last breath will be a swear word directed at a loop of paracord around my trachea. Especially when the point of a neck knife is a rapid and convenient deployment of a blade that will easily cut through paracord.
Chains of small balls like the pull-chains on floor lamps are popular neck knives lanyards. They will break away before killing you. At least that’s the plan, but I haven’t personally tested it in all cases. So use your brain. But more important that lanyard strength is blade retention. While easy extraction is important, should unintentional deployment happen you will find a sharp blade wandering around your belly region just looking for something to cut. There is no happy ending to that story except relief when you find it before it finds you.
Related: Benchmade Adamas Knife Review
As neck knives gain popularity it becomes clear that the design is still in its crude phase of evolution. Not that the knives are rough, but like early days of powered flight, the designs are all over the place. From mostly handles to almost no handles. From full-bellied blades to narrow scalpels. From finger holes to featureless grips. And from skeleton to scaled. All of these differences give the wearer plenty of options for job-specific carry even when the particular feature set seems oxymoronic like the Boker Gnome.
All Photos By Doc Montana
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Whether you’re interested in home protection or looking to stay safe while hunting, you’re going to want the best gun accessories to defend yourself.
If you’re a survivalist, then chances are you’ve already stocked up on plenty of ammo. But if you haven’t, this video is sure to change your mind. There are probably a dozen reasons why you should stockpile ammunition, but VP Prepping & Survival narrowed it down to the top 5: 1. Ammo shortages are common. […]
I’m willing to bet that at least 90% of the people reading this article have to function under a budget of sorts. Bills need to be paid, houses need to be heated, cars need to be maintained, stomachs need to be fed. It’s a fact of life and how we have to operate on a day-to-day basis. As much as any of us would love to go out and blow five grand on preps we would really love to have, reality dictates that we just can’t do that and make ends meet. I know I have to save up to obtain things I want – preps included.
While operating under this self-imposed budget, I’ve used, carried, and tested a LOT of low-priced new or “previously-enjoyed” items for lower prices. Yes, some of them were complete and utter crap, but there have been several shining stars that really enhanced my life on a daily basis; so much so that I have complete confidence that they will serve me well under more extreme, post SHTF-type scenarios.
All of the items I’ve listed here are great. I personally own and use them all (save for one, but I will explain my rationale when I get to it.) on a semi-daily basis, and they all work. The kicker? They all work well for under thirty bucks. So whether you’re under a budget, or looking for stocking stuffers, or just need good gear, these will all function without breaking the bank. Let’s check them out.
The Streamlight Microstream is a tiny (3 ½ inches long by 9/16 inch in diameter, 1.04 ounces with battery) C4 LED flashlight that is powered by a single AAA battery. It has a run time of over two hours on a fresh battery, and the bulb is rated to 30,000 hours of use with a surprisingly brilliant 35 lumen output. It has an IPX4 water resistance rating, and it is sealed with O-rings. The light has a spring steel bi-directional clip that allows you to fasten it in your pants pocket like a folding knife, or you can clipp it onto the brim of a baseball cap for a head lamp. The case is black hard-anodized aluminum, and shrugs off drops onto hard surfaces from waist-level with aplomb.
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Specs aside, I have been carrying Microstreams almost every day of my life since I got my first one a couple years ago. I have one (of several) riding clipped to my weak-hand pants pocket, opposite my folding knife, and extraction and quick deployment is a breeze. I’ll tell you now: you’ll be amazed how much you use a small light once you have it on you all the time. Drop something behind your desk into a maze of computer wires? No problem, instant illumination! Need to dig out the booster pack to jump start your car? A handly light is already with you. Walking in a dark parking garage and need to identify a threat? It’s there for you. The only, and I mean ONLY, problem I’ve ever had with these lights is that they are small and easily lost if you take them off. That’s why I mentioned I have several – if I lose mine for whatever reason, I’ll run to the store and grab another – which, of course, means I instantly find the one I lost. So I now have Streamlight Microstreams in my cars, bedside stand, and a spare at work. You can never have too many of them, and I can’t recommend these lights highly enough. Drop the $20 (or less) for one and never look back. Absolutely perfect EDC gear.
Gerber Evo Jr Folding Knife
This is the aforementioned knife I wear opposite the Microstream in my EDC carry. The EVO Jr. is a very small (3 5/8 inches by 5/8 inch) folding pocket knife with a 2 5/8” titanium-coated “Fine Edge” blade that discourages corrosion. The handles are machined anodized aluminum, the blade high carbon stainless steel, with a fast-opening thumb stud and integral finger guard that deploys with the blade opening. A non-reversible stainless steel pocket clip is screwed to one of the handle panels.
Gerber knives have always had a pretty good reputation where I’ve come from, so when my $80 H&K folder broke before I headed out to a hunting trip, I stopped at the local Cabela’s and saw this baby on sale, for I think $29.99. It fit the bill dimensionally (I hate having items with too much weight and size in my pockets), the price was good, and I knew Gerber stuff was pretty okay. I purchased the EVO Jr. and promptly forgot about the H&K folder. I’ve used this knife to gut deer, open bottles, chisel (yes, with a hammer) door strike openings in wood jambs, cut old caulking out of windows, and shred cardboard boxes – and the EVO Jr. has come up swinging. The blade is just a touch bent, but still 100% functional. I don’t feel bad at all about not owning a spendy Spyderco or Benchmade with this little beast clipped to my side. I’m sure it’s not invincible, but it’s really good for the price. They are available on Amazon for dirt money (I found this one for just over $23!) but I’m told Gerber may have discontinued this model, so grab one if you can…even if its just a backup.
Non-lethal threat deterrents are always valuable, whether you do or don’t carry a firearm, knife, etc. Non-lethal pepper/OC spray is almost always legal to carry anywhere, making it a choice method of protection if you must venture into the lands of the “gun free zone”. ASP makes the Key Defender, which is a small and slender method of deploying 2 million scoville units of OC love directly into a bad guy’s mug. The ASP Key Defender OC Spray is about the size of a Mini-Maglite, (6” long by 5/8” diameter) has an easily-utilized and secure flick-off safety, and it’s almost impossible to spray yourself if used properly. The release valve actuates like a flashlight with a tailcap switch, so it’s intuitive and easy to point in the correct direction. The knurled aluminum casing is shaped and sized nicely to do double-duty as a kubaton if things get up close and personal, and the key ring means you can attach it to your key chain if that’s your thing. Refills and inert practice cartridges for the spray are readily available as well. Shop around and you can find a Key Defender in many different colors, for right about the $30 mark on Amazon, with a two-pack of refills dinging the wallet about $15.00-$18.00.
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Funny story about my Key Defender: I was riding back home with my son from a visit with our very own Jarhead Survivor. I had to pull over to the side of the road answer the call of nature in the woods, and upon my return in the truck, I was greeted with a fierce, immediate stinging in my eyes. I looked at my son, and he was coughing and his face and eyes were red. He was holding the Key Defender, which I kept in my shifter console. “WHAT IS THIS?!?” he cried between coughs. It seems he decided to screw around with the Key Defender, and sure enough, shot a blast of it right out my driver’s side open window. None of it actually got on either of us, but the fumes alone made us vacate the truck cab post haste, while we sat on the side of the road coughing and laughing like lunatics. I’m sure anyone driving by must have wondered what these two gagging, red-faced buffoons were doing, sitting on the side of the road and laughing. I made a mistake of scratching my eye and rubbing my nose after touching the steering wheel. It was ferocious, and I didn’t even get sprayed. I can just imagine being on the bad end of one of these, and it must be a very effective deterrent indeed.
Real Avid AR-15 Micro Tool
I stumbled across this neat little rig at a local Cabela’s for $17.99, and grabbed it to bring home and try on my AR. It’s a small, light, all-steel tool meant for taking care of most of the functions you’d need to strip your AR and clean off carbon in the field. The Real Avid AR-15 Micro Tool has many functions and tools built-in to it: three sizes of bolt scraper, a 5mm, 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, and 3/8” wrenches, a bottle opener, a front sight adjustment tool, a cutter, and a takedown pin punch. It comes with a short web attachment to a keyring.
Also Read: 5 Dollar Preps
While I have no delusions of this not being an absolutely terrible 3/8” wrench, the Real Avid AR15 Micro Tool is worth every penny for other functions: the pin punch, scrapers, and front sight tools all work really well. I haven’t tried the bottle opener – mainly because I’m not exactly popping open Sam Adams bottles when I’m working on guns – but it looks like it’d do the job fine. I fastened this tool to my AR grab bag as a lightweight scraper tool pretty much. It’s no Leatherman MUT but it will work to get the carbon buildup off your bolt and firing pin well enough to get you back in action and to your cleaning kit.
Rechargeable Auxiliary Battery
Cell phones seem to run the world this day, and in many cases, they are better than any took you have in your bug-out bag to get you out of trouble. However, they are definitely battery-dependent, and the bigger and more beautiful your smartphone screen is, the faster your battery will drain. When I’m out in the woods on a deer stand, I like to have my phone to send messages to any hunting partners, check the weather forecast, read articles to keep me awake, use the GPS, etc. However, the battery is only good for about 2/3rds of the day under frequent use, generally.
I went up to my brother’s house a while ago to do some deer hunting in an area I was unfamiliar with, and I knew we were going to put on the miles, so I stopped at a Target on the way up and snagged a cheap 3,000 mAH auxiliary battery back for $24.99. Once charged, it had enough juice to give my cellphone a complete charge, and had a small LED flashlight built in. It stows in a pocket, is rubber-armored, and recharges in an hour. While I know it’s on the cheaper side and there are far better units out there on the market that sport much larger batteries, solar panels, and USB ports, this one serves me well. I know that if I have to walk home, I have a full charge ready to go to be able to contact others if I have reception. Shop around, there are lots of options under $30.
My father had this idea, and I think it’s a great one. He went out and bought a good, sturdy, 4” x 6” notebook and filled it with information and small items to keep him going if he’s in a bad spot. His notebook contains pictures of his grandchildren that have been laminated and glued to the pages, bible verses, and quotes from authors he likes, or passages that inspire. Also in the book are helpful bits of information and formulas that will prove helpful in survival situations: Angles of declination for given areas, bleach:water purification ratios, important phone numbers, photocopies of important documents, and the like. Fill one of these out and stow it in a plastic bag for when times get rough.
Clear Safety Glasses
Imagine walking through the woods at night with little or no illumination and you’ll get the idea of why a cheap pair of safety glasses is a good thing to have in your bug-out bag.
WISR Custom Paracord Bracelet
This is the one item on this list I don’t personally own, but I do have a really awesome item from Valkyrie War Cord that I reviewed: The Survival Frag. There are millions of “survival” paracord bracelet designs out there, but Chris, the owner of VWC, will let you select colors and survival items from an online list, and then he will custom build your personal WISR (Wearable Integrated Survival Rigs) with your chosen items and ship it to you. The WICR-CUSTOM starts at $10.00 and goes up from there based upon your selections. Some interesting choices are: a handcuff key ($3.00), a 1” firesteel rod ($3.00), iodine tablets ($2.00), and a buckle whistle ($3.00).
If you have a few extra bucks at your disposal, at $50 the Survival Frag remains a really great all-in-one emergency kit. Chris is a full-time student, EMT, and all-around really nice guy. He does top-quality paracord work, and it doesn’t stop at bracelets and Frags. His online store can be found here. Free shipping too! While I don’t have one of these – YET – I have no doubts that VWC’s products are good to go.
Liberty Gun Lube CLP
Does your current gun lube keep machine guns running for hundreds of continuous rounds under high heat conditions? Okay, it very well may; that’s a common property for a good gun lube. But how does it function at 84 degrees F below zero? For all you guys without calculators, that’s 116 degrees below freezing, and that means that your Liberty Gun Lube-treated gun will function on the -60 degree F surface of Mars if needed. Liberty Gun Lube’s CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative) boasts an ultra-low freezing temperature, and the ability to keep guns working in high heat situations too. Jeff Zimba, renowned author of “The Evolution of the Black Rifle: 20 Years of Upgrades, Options, and Accessories”, did a serious battery of tests of Liberty Lube’s CLP with full-auto rifles, as well as freezing pistols in blocks of ice, chipping the pistols out, and shooting them: Liberty Lube worked slick (pun intended.). Check out just one of the test videos with Liberty Lube here…and check out the rest of his channel while you’re at it.
Spoiler Alert: I have a review of Liberty Gun Lube’s CLP as well as their solvent coming soon, so I won’t get too deep into the product here. But Liberty Lube’s CLP has replaced all my other gun oils, it works so well. 1-oz bottles go a long way and take up very little room in your out-the-door gun bag. If you need to keep your guns running in adverse conditions, this is your first step. 1-oz bottles of the CLP run $10, the non-toxic, biodegradable solvent runs $9.
This universal “fix-it” has been around for ages, and for good reason: it does its job, and it does it well. WD-40 is marketed as a lubricant, penetrating oil, preservative, and seemingly every household has one of the ubiquitous blue and yellow spray bottles kicking around somewhere. WD-40 should also be on the radar of anyone with a prepper’s mindset, too. A small 3-oz bottle doesn’t take up much room in packs, and can be used to lubricate whetstones while sharpening knives, keep guns from rusting in wet environments, free rusted locks, nuts, bolts, bike chains, etc., and since it is quite flammable, can also be used as a fire accelerant to help start a life-saving fire in wet conditions. It also works as a starting fluid for tough-to-start motors. It is available anywhere for cheap. Everyone needs WD-40 in their lives.
Grip tape is one of those products that solves a problem that you didn’t know you had. I’m guessing that grip tape is a natural evolution of shooters wrapping their pistol stocks in skateboard tape to improve grip in sweaty, muddy, and bloody conditions. Many products are marketed with the same goal: to make an easily-applied surface that doesn’t permanently alter firearms, yet provides a vast improvement in gripping traction. I bought HI-TEC GT5000 tape on a whim one day, and it turned out to be a great product. I originally applied it to a S&W M&P, and it spiraled out of control from there: I’ve since applied the tape to rifle magazines, knife handles, flashlight housings, cellphone cases, even my mouse at work…anything that could use more “grip” when things get sweaty or greasy. It’s very easily cut to size and shape, and it has an adhesive backing that grips most surfaces very well if they are clean – a little touch with a heat gun doesn’t hurt either. There are lots of choices out there, and I’m sure most of them do the same job well. My sheets of GT5000 cost a whopping $6.99 through Amazon.
Unless you’ve been hiding under a rock, you’ve heard of or seen “the tool that fits like a glove”: Mechanix Gloves. These gloves have made an enviable name for themselves as hard-wearing dexterous gloves that will protect your hands, yet let you pick a penny off the floor without having to take your gloves off. There are easily 50 different designs of gloves that Mechanix puts out, from gardening to tactical protected to cold-weather gloves. I discovered Mechanix gloves about 8 years ago while working construction and needing warm gloves that would let me pick individual screws out of a box. They’re not impervious and the fingertips will wear out, but not after they give you a long life of hard service.
I’ve run a few different styles of Mechanix gloves, but I really like the Fleece Utility gloves for when cold weather sets in, as they are very warm, and dry out quickly. I appreciate them because I can safely flick the safety off my Winchester 70 and manipulate the trigger well, without having to take my gloves off. When it gets warmer and I need added grip and hand protection but would really not appreciate warm hands, The Tactical Vent Covert setup is hard to beat. A pair of rugged gloves for a Get Out Of Dodge setup makes a lot of sense, and a pair of Mechanix gloves will generally run under $30 unless you go for the really high-end tactical gloves.
Wrapping It Up
As you go down the list, I’m sure you can think of other items that offer similar high “bang for the buck” values, or are just good, simple ideas for anyone who might find themselves in a tough situation with just their gear and knowledge to get them by. What budget ideas or products do you know of that you’d add to this list? Sound off in the comments – we all appreciate good ideas and products that don’t require a second mortgage!
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Although some are quick to write off an air rifle as a weapon of choice, there are many advantages to carrying an air rifle versus a crossbow or center-fire rifle.
The post Weapon of Choice: The Benefits of Purchasing an Air Rifle appeared first on The Prepper Journal.